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DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, AND 
GARMENT DYER. 







THE PRACTICAL 


DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, AND 
GARMENT DYER: 


COMPRISING 

DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING; PURIFICATION OF BENZINE; 
REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING; WET CLEANING; FINISHING 
CLEANED FABRICS; CLEANING AND DYEING FURS, SKIN RUGS 
AND MATS; CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS; CLEANING 
AND RENOVATING FELT, STRAW AND PANAMA HATS; 
BLEACHING AND DYEING STRAW AND STRAW HATS; 
CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES; GARMENT 
DYEING; STRIPPING; ANALYSIS OF 
TEXTILE FABRICS. 


EDITED BY 

WILLIAM T* BRANNT, 

EDITOR OF “THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK.” 

FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 

ILLUSTRATED BY FORTY-ONE ENGRAVINGS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 

810 WALNUT STREET. 

1911 . 



Copyright, 1911, 

BY 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. 




©CI.A300125 


PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 


The manner in which The Practical Dry 
Cleaner, Scourer, and Garment Dyer has been 
received by those engaged in the cleaning and dye¬ 
ing industry, as evidenced by the rapid sale of the 
second and third editions, is indeed highly gratifying 
to both the publishers and the editor. 

The fourth edition, which is now presented to the 
public, has been thoroughly revised and also en¬ 
larged, the aim in revision being in a measure to 
make it of still greater practical value to the smaller 
establishments. No material change has been made 
in the arrangement, but some matter of little general 
interest has been eliminated and replaced by new 
material especially in the sections devoted to dry 
cleaning and spotting. 

A noteworthy addition is the section relating to 
Cleaning and Renovating Felt and Straw Hats. 
Many of the processes and formulas given under 
this head have been contributed by Mr. Nicholas J. 
Mergen, an expert cleaner and instructor in this 
branch of the business. These processes and for¬ 
mulas are now for the first time published, and are 
believed to be the only ones ever given to the pub¬ 
lic, they having thus far been held as trade secrets. 
They will, it is hoped, prove of especial value in 

(V) 




Vi PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 

establishments where hat cleaning and renovating 
form a part of the business. 

The full significance of dry cleaning is steadily 
gaining ground, and it is becoming more and more 
a matter of necessity to have such garments as can¬ 
not well be laundered thoroughly from time to time 
dry cleaned, and it has been endeavored to bring 
this edition fully up to the most advanced practice 
in this now growing and interesting art, and making 
it an indispensable handbook to the progressive dry 
cleaner, scourer, garment dyer, and hat renovator. 

As is their long established practice, the publish¬ 
ers have provided the volume with a full table of 
contents and an exhaustive index, thus making 
reference to any subject in it both prompt and easy. 

William T. Brannt. 


Philadelphia, October 2 , igu. 


CONTENTS. 


i. 

Dry, Chemical, or French Cleaning. 

PAGE 

Discovery, in 1866, by M. Judlin, of the detergent powers of ben¬ 
zine; An early method of dry cleaning; Reason for the suc¬ 
cess of dry cleaning. 1 

Betterment of social conditions by dry cleaning; Closeness of the 
connection between dry-cleaning and wet-cleaning; Growing 
tendency of combining the two methods under the same roof . 2 

Value of chemical cleaning for certain purposes; Origin of the 
phrase “ dry cleaning; ” Real definition of dry or chemical 

cleaning. 3 

Solvents which may be used in dry cleaning; Common mistakes 
made with regard to the dry-cleaning business; Knowledge re¬ 
quired by a dry-cleaning expert. 4 

Constitution of most stains in garments; Advantage of dry clean¬ 
ing over the older methods; Fluids chiefly used in dry cleaning. 5 
Benzine and its properties; Benzine as a solvent for oils and 

greases; Method of testing benzine. 6 

Chemical nature of benzine; Benzine soap; Increase in the 

cleaning power of benzine by the addition of soap . 7 

Dr. M. Richter’s discovery of antibenzinpyrin; Classification of 
oleates soluble in benzine; Power of the acid oleates to absorb 

water. 8 

Solubility of benzine soap; Cause of the decomposition of ben¬ 
zine soap; Preparation of antibenzinpyrin. 9 

Saponine. 10 

Universal benzine soap; Weralin; Liquid benzine soap. 11 

Preparation of soaps freely soluble in benzine; Benzine-soluble 

soap solution of fatty acids.. . 12 

Formulas for the preparation of benzine soaps. 13 

Liquid benzine soaps; Solid benzine soaps. 14 

( vii ) 















Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Benzol or benzene, and its properties ... . 15 

Method of distinguishing benzine from benzol; Turpentine, and 

its properties. 16 

Varieties of turpentine. 17 

Carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloro-methane, and its properties.. 18 

Advantages of the use of carbon tetrachloride over that of 

benzine. 19 

Storage of carbon tetrachloride. 20 

Precautions in dry-cleaning establishments; Conditions under 

which combustion and explosion can take place .. 21 

Danger of using benzine and gasoline in an ordinary dwelling- 
house; Care in designing and constructing benzine-cleaning 

establishments; Storage of the stock-benzine. 22 

Location of the washers and of the driers; Protection of all ves¬ 
sels containing inflammable liquids; Indication of spontaneous 

combustion... 23 

Means of lessening the risk of fire and explosion, and provision 
for minimizing these effects; Ammonia -as a fire-extinguishing 

agent; Cause of ignition by electric sparks. 24 

Dr. W. Richter’s observations on spontaneous firing; Kegulations 
regarding cleaning establishments in Paris, France; Means to 

decrease danger from fire. 25 

Prevention of ignition by electric sparks by the addition of soap 
to the benzine; Prevention of the inhalation of benzine vapors. 26 

Treatment of burns. 27 

The cleaning process. 28 

Goods suitable for the dry process; Goods less suitable, and goods 

not suitable. 29 

Means of removing dust from garments; The dust wheel; Prepar¬ 
ing the articles for cleaning; Necessity of thoroughly drying 

the articles previous to cleaning. .... 30 

Mode of freeing benzine from moisture; Process of dry-cleaning 

suitable for small establishments. 31 

Vessels used for the purpcse; Making a tampion; Washing the 

articles. 32 

Draining, wringing and drying the articles. 33 

Washing silk articles; Arrangement for working on a larger scale. 34 
Advantages of the use of heavy benzine; Plant required for work¬ 
ing on a larger scale; Location of the washing machine; The 
drying chamber.*. 35 




















CONTENTS. 


IX 


I'AGE 

Benzine washing machines; Simplest form of machine.. 36 

lower-driven washing machine; Cylinder or cage of this machine. 37 
Washing machine for hand-power; Apparatus in which the articles 
aie washed, rinsed, and drained, and the spent benzine is clari¬ 
fied . 38 

Washing the goods. 40 

Points in benzine washing. 41 

Removal of excess of solvent by the hydro-extractor or centrifugal 
machine; Iypes of hydro-extractors, and principle of their con¬ 
struction . 42 

Cincinnati hand-extractor. 43 

Examination of the centrifuged goods; Table for brushing gar¬ 
ments . 44 

Heating the evaporating room; Cleaning white woolen and silk 

goods; Cleaning white goods. 45 

Cleaning colored silks. 46 

Cleaning and renovating real velvet goods. 47 

Steaming velvet goods. 48 

Restoring luster to articles that may have become dull; Velvet 

steamers . 49 

Method of steaming velvet; Cleaning light-colored silk velvets. .. 50 

Removal of stains from ladies’ cloth coats; Dry-cleaning carpets - - 51 

Purification of benzine; Filtering and apparatus for this purpose.. 52 

Purification of benzine with sulphuric acid. 53 

Hasselbach’s method for clarifying benzine; Deodorization of 

benzine. 54 

Purification of benzine by distillation; Superiority of distillation 

over other methods of purifying. 55 

Considerations in designing a plant for collecting and redistilling 

benzine. . 56 

Precautions in purifying benzine by distillation; A practical ben¬ 
zine distiller. 58 

Improved benzine still; Simple method of purifying the dark ben¬ 
zine previous to distillation; Apparatus for the distillation of 
benzine thus purified. 60 

II. 

Removal of S jains, or Spotting. 

On what the process of removing stains depends; Classes of stains; 
Necessity of ascertaining the nature of the stain. 64 





















X 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Tools for the removal of stains; Necessity of understanding the 

nature of the agents employed in spotting. 65 

Removal of stains from undyed goods; Agents which cannot be 

employed in treating woolen fabrics. 66 

Action of various agents on silk and on cotton goods. 67 

Definition of linen; Constitution of the jute filer; Cleaning white 

goods; Use of water fot removing stains. 68 

Conclusions as to the methods to be adopted for the removal of 

stains; Object of dry cleaning.• 69 

Principal spotting agents; Ether, and its properties, and mode of 

testing it. 7 ° 

Chloroform, and its properties; Alcohol, and its properties. 71 

Mode of increasing the efficacy of alcohol as a spotting agent; 

Acetone; Acetic ether; Ammonia. 7 2 

Benzine, and its use for spotting; Mixtures of benzine with other 

spotting agents. 73 

Removal of stains of blood, coffee, chocolate, gravy, glue and axle 

grease; Carbon tetrachloride, and its use in spotting. 74 

Acetic acid, and its properties; Fusel oil; Glycerin. 76 

Borax, and its properties; Adulteration of borax. 77 

Hyposulphite of sodium, and its properties; Stannous chloride or 

tin salt; Chloride of lime, and its properties. 78 

Preparation of eau de Javelle; Various bleaching liquors; 

Chlorine water. 79 

Tartaric acid, and its properties; Citric acid; Oxalic acid; Acid 

oxalate or bin-oxalate of potassium, or salt of sorrel. 80 

Hydrochloric acid; Ox-gall, and mode of purifying it; Mixtures 

recently introduced for the removal of stains; Benzolinar. 81 

Various spotting and washing agents; Soap for the removal of 
wine and vinegar stains; Soap for the removal of all kinds of 

stains. 82 

Soap for the removal of stains from silk; Means of preventing 
* putrefaction of ox-gall; Soap for silk tissues; Soaps for the re¬ 
moval of stains from calico. 83 

Mixture for cleaning fabrics dyed with sensitive dyes; Preparation 

of liquid spotting soap, and of ammonia soap. 84 

Use of potassium cyanide for spotting; Agents for the removal of 

stains of lunar caustic or nitrate of silver; Spotting fluids. 85 

Spotting fluids for leather and tissues. 86 























CONTENTS. 


Xl 


PAGE 


Spotting fluid for all kinds of stains, the derivation of which can¬ 
not be ascertained; English spotting fluid; Schwemme*^* spot¬ 
ting fluid; Spotting paste; Spotting pencils ... 87 

Tetrapol, and analysis of it. 88 

Use of tetrapol as a spotting agent ... 89 

Blanchissine; Hexol'. 90 

Cleaning dust coats, morning dresses, ram coats, etc.; Removal of 

stains in velvet and plush.... 91 

Spotting fluid for silk; Operation of removing stains; Auxiliary 

agents for the rapid removal of water. 92 

Methods of getting rid of rings formed in removing stains in raw 

silk garments; The spraying bottle. 93 

Removal of dust and mud stains. 94 

Removal of stains of unknown derivation; Preparation for clean¬ 
ing woolen goods; Treatment of silk, satin, etc. 95 

Removal of grease stains; Benzinized magnesia, and its prepara¬ 
tion ... . 96 

Gelatinized benzine, and its preparation. 97 

Etheiized magnesia, and its preparation; “ Water stains ” due to 

milk, soup, beer, etc; Mode of cleaning a coat. 98 

Treatment of very old grease stains; Removal of paint and varnish 

stains, and of stains of resin, tar, or wagon grease. 99 

Treatment of stearin and wax stains. 100 

Removal of fruit stains, and of stains of red wine, cherries, whortle¬ 
berries, etc. 101 

Treatment of milk and coffee stains. 102 


Removal of soup stains, as well of smaller grease stains in general, 
and of stains of beer, wine, punch, sugar, gelatine, glue, etc.... 103 
Removal of lye- and lime-stains, urine and perspiration stains.... 105 
Cleaning uniform facings, cuffs, pockets, etc.; Removal of greasy 
shine on men’s worsted or cheviot garments; • Treatment of 


nitrate of silver stains . 106 

Removal of aniline color stains, and of ink stains. 107 

Removal of blood stains, and of metallic oxide stains. no 

Treatment of stains of artificial perfumes. in 

Removal of iron and rust stains.-. 112 

Galvanic method cf removing rust stains; Treatment of mold and 

mildew stains. 113 

Table showing the best means of cleaning all kinds of fabrics from 
any stain.• 115 

























Xll 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Directions for removing stains which apply especially to the gar¬ 
ment dyer. 116 

Bleaching processes applied to spotting; Bleaching with potassium 
permanganate; Chemical equation illustrating the process taking 

place thereby. 119 

Reducing effect of Garbon dioxide; Reduction with hydrogen per¬ 
oxide. 120 

Action of formic and acetic acids; Use of phosphoric and oxalic 

acids. 121 

Reduction with hydrosulphurous acid. 122 

Seyda’s method for spotting in the cold way.. 123 

Combined method of removing stains.. 124 

Use of hyraldite in spotting. 125 

Hydrogen peroxide as a spotting agent. 126 

Means of improving the stability of hydrogen peroxide; Mode of 

using commercial hydrogen peroxide. 127 

Process of spotting with hydrogen peroxide; Removal of various 

stains with this agent. .. 128 

Behavior of hydrogen peroxide towards colored fabrics. 130 

Experiments with fabrics dyed with various dye-stuffs. 131 

Oxygenol as a spotting agent; Removal of various stains w r ith oxy- 

genol. 133 

Behavior of oxygenol towards colored articles; Experiments with 

dyed wool and cotton goods. 134 

Sodium peroxide as a spotting and washing agent; Preparation of 

the bleaching liquor for spotting. 135 

Sodium peroxide soap, and its preparation. 136 

III. 

Wet Washing. 

Importance of ascertaining the class of fibers of which the articles 

are made. 137 

Soap to be used in wet washing; Faults in the process of wet¬ 
cleaning of colored goods. 138 

Water; Importance of pure and soft w’ater in w et-cleaning; Clari¬ 
fying turbid water; Danger in using hard w'ater and water con¬ 
taining iron; Purification and testing of water. 139 

Simple method of testing water as to its softness; Determination 
of the presence of gypsum, chlorine combinations, ammonia, 
nitric acid, and lime. 140 























CONTENTS. 


• • 4 

Xlll 

PAGE 

Testing water for iron; Transient and permanent hardness of 

water; Softening hard water. 141 

Purification of water in which gypsum predominates; Testing the 

purified water; Purification of water containing iron. 142 

Classification of wet-cleaning; Utensils used; Wet washing men’s 

garments; Sorting the garments. 143 

Preparation of the garments for washing; Washing dark garments. 144 

Souring, and bath for this purpose . 145 

W’ashing cloaks, heavy overcoats and gray uniform cloaks. 146 

Washing men’s dark clothes with quillaia bark; Mode of extract¬ 
ing quillaia bark. 147 

Removal of stains before washing with quillaia bark extract, and a 

mixture for this purpose; Washing ladies’ garments.. 148 

Testing light-colored garments as to whether they will stand wet¬ 
washing; A knowledge of dyeing the first qualification for the 

operator w ? ho has to deal with colored cotton garments. 149 

Treatment of w'ash-fast garments; Process for cotton garments 

that will not stand washing with soap. 150 

Mode of preventing colors from running; Washing corsets. 151 

Washing ladies’ half-wool and wool garments. 152 

Importance of rinsing in wet-cleaning; Freshening up the colors; 

Treatment of cheap, weighted silks. 153 

Washing artificial silks. 154 

Protecting light-colored silks from stripping; Removal of per¬ 
spiration stains under the arm-pits.-. 155 

Washing raw silk, luster and barege garments, and garments 

trimmed with black velvet . 156 

Wet-washing white wool and white silk fabrics. 157 

Construction of a bleaching chamber for woolens; Removal of 

sulphur stains. 158 

Sulphuring white woolen blankets; Bleaching wdth potassium 

permanganate and sulphurous acid. 159 

Bleaching white wool or silk articles with peroxides; Bleaching 

white woolen blankets, garments, etc. 160 

Preservation of hydrogen peroxide . 161 

Bleaching with sodium peroxide. 162 

Bleaching jute. 164 

Electric bleaching. 165 

Electrolytic bleaching liquor; Most important constituent of 
bleaching powder. 166 


























XIV 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Haas and Oettel’s electric bleaching apparatus. 167 

Preparation of the salt solution or brine; Washing light-colored 

wool and silk articles. 168 

Washing woolen undergarments; Cleaning white caps and felt 
hats, and white woolen knit or woolen articles; Washing silk 

handkerchiefs. 169 

Washing white silk stockings, colored silk cloths, and silk gloves; 

Cleaning fine-colored embroideries. 17 0 

Preparation of eau de Javelle . 171 

Preventing colors from running; Washing small table covers with 

colored embroidery. 172 

Washing antimacassars, cushion covers, etc. 173 

Safeguards against bleeding of colors; Removal of stains left 

after washing . 174 

Centrifuging the goods before drying; Washing laces, blonde- 

laces, embroideries on linen... 175 

Cleaning real laces; Appliances for washing laces. 176 

Washing curtains; Treatment of cream-colored curtains. 178 

Reviving the color of cream-colored curtains; Washing curtains 

in the machine... 179 

Washing colored curtains; Washing veils. 180 

Washing silk and silver laces. 181 

Washing gold laces; Cleaning gold and silver galloons. 182 

Cleaning parasols. 183 

Wet-cleaning carpets. 185 

IV. 

Finishing Cleaned Fabrics. 

Object of finishing; Importance of thorough finishing; Best means 

of removing the water from wet textile fabrics. 188 

Appliances for the quick drying of wet-cleaned garments; Drying 
shrunken garments; Appliances for shaping and smoothing . .. 189 

Finishing white and colored woolen shawls, fichus, etc. 190 

Finishing white and colored silk shawls, etc., and laces, embroid¬ 
eries, etc. 191 

Dressings for laces. 192 

Finishing plush and similar articles; Dressing for white embroid¬ 
eries; Finishing curtains. 193 

Steaming plush draperies; Finishing men’s garments; Steam 
boards, and their construction. 194 

























CONTENTS. 


XV 

PAGE 

Steam table. 

Directions for pressing men’s garments; Pressing a coat and 

pantaloons. 

Pressing waistcoats; Bust-finishing and flat-pressing machines; 

Disadvantages of pressing clothes by hand. 198 

Pressing machines made by the United States Hoffman Co., Syra¬ 
cuse, N. Y. 199 

Description of their model “A A”... 200 

Mode of operating the machine. 201 

finishing ladies’ garments; Dressings for ladies’ garments; 

Dressing for men’s and ladies’ summer garments*. 202 

Drying cylinder and drying table; Steam-heated puff irons. 1_ 203 

Dressing for garment dyers and laundrymen. 205 

Gloss starch; Cream gloss. 206 

Formulas for water-proofing fabrics. 207 

Formulas for fire-proofing fabrics. 208 

Fire-proofing starch. 209 

Martin’s fire-proof dressing; Apyrine starch.. 210 

V. 

Cleaning and Dyeing Furs, Skin Rugs and Mats. 

Cleaning; Examination of the articles and removal of dust from 

them; Furs which should be chemically cleaned... 211 

Wet-cleaning of very dirty furs and skins. 212 

Treatment for the restoration of skins after washing. 213 

Treatment of furs that cannot stand wet washing. 214 

Process of softening hard and very dry skins; Washing ladies’ and 

gentlemen’s fur collars; Washing sheep skins. 215 

Bleaching white skins; Bleaching with potassium permanganate.. 216 
Bleaching with sodium peroxide; Removing water from skins.... 217 
Temperature at which soap washing should be done; Washing 
very much tendered skins; Method for cleaning furs, such as 

muffs, collars, etc . 218 

Dyeing furs and skins. 220 

Method for increasing the affinity of cleaned skins for dye-stuffs; 

Acid dye-stuffs recommended for furs; Cassella & Co.’s patented 

process for dyeing with acid dye-stuffs. 221 

Modes of dyeing gray, brown, and black . 222 

Use of Ursols.• •. 223 

Drawbacks of the Ursols; Black on skins. 224 




























XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Tipping furs with black; Brown on skins. 

Chestnut, russet, golden, silver-gray, scarlet, and orange on skins. 
Bright green, and maroon on skins. 

VI. 

Cleaning and Dyeing Feathers. 

Cleaning; Brightening blacks, browns, and most ordinary dark 

colors; Purifying feathers chemically. 

Dressing feathers; Re-whitening natural white feathers . 

Bleaching feathers; Dyeing. 

Desirability of a knowledge of the various articles used by the 
dyer; Temperatures to be used in dyeing; Use of mordants. .. 

Utensils for dyeing; Regulation of the temperature. 

Modes of adding coloring matter to the dye bath. 

Treatment of portions of birds; Dyeing ostrich leathers; Cleaning 

large feathers. 

Cleaning feathers in bulk; Decolorizing. 

Degreasing.. 

Removing natural brown spots and points from wdiite feathers... 

Dyeing ostrich feathers black. 

Dyeing osirich feathers bronze, olive, gold, and other colors in¬ 
cluding fashionable colors; Cream, ivory. 

Rose; Salmon; Maize, bamboo; Pale blue. 

Butter, bouton d’or; Parme, heliotrope, prune; Gold, old gold; 

Gray; Coquilicot cardinal. 

Garnet; Beige, tobacco, Siam, and intervening shades; Chartreuse; 

Cresson—dull yellow-green; Olive. 

Old rose; Navy, admiral; Russe; Gray-blue colors; Green-blue 

colors . 

Maroon loutre; Ombre (shaded) tri-colored. 

The shading box and its construction. 

Borde (bordered feathers); Light mirror, dark border. 

Dark mirror, light border. 

Various methods of dyeing feathers in graduating shades. 

Dyeing fancy feathers; Cleaning. 

Washing fancy feathers. 

Decolorizing; Degreasing; Treatment of white feathers. 

Dyeing black; Chicken feathers; Mordanting. 

Dyeing. 

Treatment with chlorine. 


PAGE 

226 

227 

228 


229 

230 

231 

232 

233 

234 

235 

236 

237 

238 

239 

240 

241 

242 

243 

244 

245 

246 

247 

248 

249 

250 

251 

252 

253 

254 

2 55 





























CONTENTS. 


XVII 


PAGE 

Turkey feathers; Pigeon feathers; Goose and duck feathers. 256 

Parrot feathers; Skins of kingfishers and magpies; All other kinds 
of birds’ wings, skins, heads and tails; Bronze-green, olive, gold. 257 
Other colors, including mode colors; Ombre; Changeant; Drying 
feathers. 2 ^g 

Drying frames; Machines for handling a large number of feathers; 


Curling feathers. 259 

Special tool for curling feathers. 260 

Drying drum. 262 


VII. 


Cleaning and Renovating Felt, Straw and Panama Hats; 
Bleaching and Dyeing Straw and Straw Hats. 


Tools required. 263 

Description of tools manufactured and supplied by Messrs. 

Roberts, Cushman & Co., New York. 264 

The electric clutch; Blocks. 265 

Flanges, flange stand, curling board, and combination curling 

shackle. 266 

Tollikers. ; . 267 

Spring rounding jack; Spinner; Band block; Set stick; Stretch 

block; Hatters’ irons. 268 

Cleaning felt hats. 269 

Blocking soft or stiff hats. 270 

Setting soft and stiff hats; Curling soft and stiff hats; Pouncing 
or finishing a soft or stiff hat.i. 271 


Luering or polishing soft and stiff hats; Flanging soft or Panama 


hats. .. 272 

Binding soft or stiff hats. 273 

Measuring sweat leathers for soft, stiff, Panama and straw hats; 
Formula for cleaning straw, Panama, and Leghorn hats. 274 


Another formula for cleaning straw hats; Bleacl ing straw and 
straw hats; Bleaching with a salt containing sulphurous acid.. 275 
Bleaching with sulphite or hyposulphite of sodium; Bleaching 

with hydrogen peroxide. . 276 

. Dyeing straw and straw hats; Beige. 277 

Pale beige; Dark beige; Tobacco brown; Gendarme blue; 

Cardinal... 278 

Dark green; Myrtle green; Dark marine blue; Silver gray. .... 279 






















CONTENTS. 


xviii 

PAGE 

VIII. 

Cleaning and Dyeing Gloves. 

Appliances required; Vessels for holding the benzine; The glove 

stick. 280 

Brushes; Glove hands or trees; Cleaning kid gloves... 281 

Restoration of luster to gloves; Cleaning white gloves; Removal 

of rust or ink stains... 282 

The fat bath and its preparation. 283 „ 

Washing chamois gloves. 284 

Cleaning buckskin gloves, gauntlets, and Suede gloves; Machines 

for cleaning gloves. 285 

Dyeing kid gloves . 286 

Black; Brown; Morocco red. 287 

Gray; Use of aniline colors for dyeing gloves, and best class of 
dye-stuffs for the purpose. 288 

IX. 

Garment Dyeing. 

Difficulties of this branch of the dyeing trade; Advisability of 

testing goods previous to accepting them for re-dyeing. 290 

Points that have to be considered by the garment dyer; Colors 

which may be dyed on the original color. 291 

Dyeing silk; Precautions to be observed. 292 

Utensils to be used; Cleaning and stripping the goods; Testing 

goods for strength . 293 

Remedying damages due to wear and exposure; Dye-stuffs for silk. 294 

Formulas for dyeing silk dresses and fabrics; Black on silk. 295 

Dark brown; Gold; Bordeaux red. 296 

Scarlet; Crimson; Cherry red; Bright scarlets; Deeper bluish 

reds; Cream; Rose color. 297 

Salmon rose; Blue; Navy blue. 298 

Heliotrope; Prune; Silver gray; Gray; Bright green. 299 

Pea green; Fancy colors and all intermediate tones; Dyeing 

genuine velvet. 300 

Dyeing wool and silk (gloria) fabrics; Dyes that act equally on 
wool and silk at boiling heat; Division of acid dyes on the 

basis of their affinity for silk and wool. 301 

Best means of dyeing wool and silk to shade. 302 























CONTENTS. 


XIX 


PAGE 

Production of “shot” effects; Dyeing woolen garments and 

fabrics. . 303 

Application cf the acid dye-stuffs; Usual method of dyeing wool 

with acid dyes. 304 

Use of basic dye-stuffs; Dyeing with mordant dyes; Mordants 

used. 305 

Preparing woolen garments for dyeing; Cleaning and sorting the 

garments. 306 

Removal of stains and preliminary washing; Treatment with 

nitric a<;id. 307 

Black on wool; Dead black; Black on a woolen dress with silk 

trimmings . 308 

Chromotrop black; Blue black; Gray on wool; Dark gray; 

Scarlet on wool; Crimson. 309 

Deep red on wool; Maroon; Claret red; Bright red; Orange; 

Yellow; Green; Sage green . 310 

Medium green; Olive green; Blue; Dark blue; Navy blue; 

Violet. 311 

Mauve; Brown; Clive brown; Dyeing mixed cotton and wool 

goods. 312 

Black on mixed cotton and wool goods; Dark blue; Dark brown; 

Scarlet; Crimson. 313 

Orange; Dark green; Slate; Dark gray; Drab; Cornflower blue; 

Sage brown; Dark sage. 314 

Peacock green; Dyeing of cotton goods; Removal of size; Method 

of working with direct dyes. 315 

Scarlet on cotton; Crimson red; Pink; Claret; Maroon; Salmon. 316 
Yellow; Orange; Green; Blue; Violet; Brown; Light brown; 

Dark brown; Black; Deep black. 317 

Gray; Dyeing cotton and linen garments containing jute; Dyes 

most in use for pure jute. 318 

Method of mixing the dye with the dressing; Receipt for black.. 319 

X. 

Stripping Colors from Garments and Fabrics. 

Clothes with which the garment dyer has to deal; Stripping with 
hot soda and soap; Process of stripping some of the aniline 
colors. 3 2 ° 


















XX 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Bath for removing browns and blacks; Stripping silks dyed with 

aniline colors. 3 21 

Stripping woolens; Stripping mixtures of wool and silk, and of 

wool and cotton; Stripping with peroxide of hydrogen. 322 

An old method of stripping woolens; Stripping with potassium 
permanganate; Best stripping agent for cotton goods; Stripping 

with hydrosulphuric acid. 3 2 3 

Stripping shoddy and dyed goods. 324 

Stripping with hyraldite. 325 

XI. 

Analysis of Textile Fabrics. 

Advantage of being able to analyze cloth. 327 

Means employed for analysis; Mechanical analysis; Characteristics 
of the principal fibers as shown under the microscope; Cotton; 

Flax. 328 

Hemp; Jute; Silk; Tussah silk; Artificial silk or lustra-cellulose; 

Wool. 329 

Hair; Chemical analysis; Method of distinguishing between fibers 

of vegetable and animal origin; Vegetable fibers. 330 

Animal fibers; Basis of all vegetable textile fibers; Effect of var¬ 
ious chemicals on vegetable fibers. 331 

Effect of chemicals on wool; Determination of wool, and silk.... 332 
Determination of the presence of vegetable fibers in a tissue of 

w'ool and silk. 333 

Testing white, or not too dark colored, mixed tissues; Detection 

of silk in wool, or wool in silk. 335 

Preparation of the tissue for chemical testing. 336 

Summary for distinguishing the purity of a fabric by chemical 
means; Cotton; Cotton in linen cloth; Cotton in woolen 

cloth; Jute; Linen; Silk. 237 

Tussah silk; Cotton in a w r oolen fabric; Cloth containing silk 
and wool; Mercerized cloth; Test for detecting the difference 

betw-een mercerized and unmercerized cotton. 338 

Table of reactions of animal fibers.. . . . 340 

Table of reactions of various dyeing materials. 341 

Index. 34^ 




















PRACTICAL DRY CLEANER, SCOURER AND 

GARMENT DYER. 


i. 

DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 

In 1866, a Frenchman, M. Judlin, laid the founda¬ 
tion of an entirely new industry by discovering the 
detergent powers of benzine; and this process of 
cleaning, which is variously known as dry, chemical, 
and French cleaning, has now spread over the entire 
civilized world. It appears that a method of dry 
cleaning was known as early as 1848. However, 
the solvent used was not benzine but camphene, an 
oil of turpentine specially distilled for burning in 
lamps. 

The success of the method introduced by M. Judlin 
was due to the fact that it altered neither the fit nor 
the fashion of the garments, while wet washing with 
soap not uncommonly affects one or both of them, 
so that other processes are often required after wet 
washing, which are unnecessary with dry cleaning. 
The dry cleaning of garments is thus simple and 
rapid, and what is more, most of the benzine used 
can be recovered for use again. 

(1) 



2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Chemical cleaning does much towards the better¬ 
ing of social conditions, and to-day the celebrated 
remark of Liebig that the civilization of a nation 
could be measured by the amount of soap it con¬ 
sumes, might be supplemented by adding that those 
countries in which the chemical cleaning establish¬ 
ments are not well patronized, are by far less cul¬ 
tured than those which have recognized the worth 
and value of this industry. 

The full significance of chemical cleaning is steadily 
gaining ground, and it is becoming more and more 
a matter of necessity to have such garments as can¬ 
not well be laundered thoroughly dry-cleaned from 
time to time. However, the closeness of the connec¬ 
tion between the two cleaning trades is clearly shown 
by the fact that in many cases the same article has 
to be subjected to both the processes which form the 
ground work of the respective methods. Hence, the 
growing tendency to combine the two methods under 
the same roof, especially as a steam laundry can add 
dry cleaning to its business without any considerable 
further use of capital or space. Power is already at 
hand, ironing and drying rooms also, and it is merely a 
question of extending facilities already possessed, 
and of employing persons skilled in dry cleaning. 
There can be no doubt about the tendency of the 
times, and technical education should take the form 
of training persons competent to do either dry or 
wet cleaning, as may be required. It is irrational 
that if, as so often happens, an article requires to be 
both dry-cleaned and wet-cleaned that it should have 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 3 

to go to a different establishment to undergo the 
second process. From the customer’s point of view 
it would surely be an advantage to him if he could 
send all his articles to one and the same firm, with 
perfect confidence that the firm has every modern 
cleaning method at its disposal, and can deal with 
anything its customers choose to send it in the best 
possible manner. 

Chemical cleaning is especially valuable to doctors 
and nurses, and all those coming in contact with in¬ 
fectious diseases, it having been proved that this 
process not only destroys germs in clothing, but also 
renders the garments treated practically immune. 

The phrase “dry cleaning,” or as the French call 
it, nettoycige a sec , originated from the fact that no 
water is used in the process. Ffowever, in reality, 
the garments are immersed and washed in benzine, 
benzol, or some other solvent. Thus the term “dry 
cleaning” is a misnomer, and the real definition of 
dry or chemical cleaning is immersion in a liquid 
which dissolves fat. It may be objected that the 
soap and soda used in ordinary washing dissolve 
fats, but in this instance it is not a case of solution 
pure and simple. What is dissolved is soap formed 
by the chemical action of alkali upon the fat, and not 
the fat as such. Any fat that is not converted into 
soap is emulsified, and passes away undissolved into 
the rinsing water. The definition of dry or chemical 
cleaning thus includes two points: Firstly, total im¬ 
mersion in a liquid, and not local applications of a 
liquid with a sponge, etc., the latter being merely a 


4 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

stain-removing process, and secondly, that the action 
of the liquid must be purely solvent, and must neither 
emulsify the fat nor alter it chemically. The fat 
must be recoverable from the solvent by simple dis¬ 
tillation. 

Although benzine and benzol are generally used 
as solvents, they are not the only liquids available. 
Ether, chloroform, acetic ether, carbon tetrachloride, 
alcohol, could all be used for chemical cleaning, 
although price and other considerations forbid their 
employment, or restrict it within narrow limits. 
Some of them, especially carbon tetrachloride, will 
no doubt be much more largely used in the future 
than they are now. Briefly stated, dry cleaning is 
based upon the solvent power for grease of benzine, 
benzol, and other solvents. 

There are two common mistakes with regard to 
the dry-cleaning business. One is that anybody can 
clean with benzine, no matter what goods, and that 
no experience is necessary so long as the plant, i. e., 
the washing machines and the stills for regenerating 
the benzine, are procured from a reliable firm. The 
other mistake is that a complicated and expensive 
plant is indispensable. Both of these ideas are 
erroneous. A dry-cleaning expert must have a 
knowledge of fabrics, and of the dyes they may con¬ 
tain, and the man who wishes to succeed must keep 
pace with the times. Many, probably most, of the 
cheap novelties seen in the shop windows are as 
awkward for the dry cleaner as they can well be. 
For instance, some silk shawls are dyed by sprink- 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR^ FRENCH CLEANING. 5 

ling. The silk is always loaded and gets stiff after 
spotting with water, the only possible spotting agent 
with these cheap and loosely dyed goods. The dyes 
commonly used are barely fast to cold water, and 
their appearance is spoiled by benzine, even if they 
are not stripped. The idea that the heavy dressing 
always given to such goods fixes the stenciled dye 
in any way is quite mistaken. 

As regards the plant, the sole object of expensive 
installation is to economize in working on a large 
scale. 

Most stains in garments consist of dirt held by 
grease of various kinds collected during the wearing 
of the clothes. By removing the grease—the dirt¬ 
carrying vehicle—the dirt is released and the stain 
disappears. As compared with the older method of 
cleaning, this process possesses great advantages, 
the possibility of shrinking and felting of woolen 
stuffs, almost unavoidable in the treatment with 
water, being entirely excluded. Furthermore, the 
most delicate colors are not affected or in the least 
injured, and richly-trimmed ladies’ gowns can be 
cleansed without the necessity of ripping off any 
portion or removing the trimmings. The padding 
of mens’ coats is not shifted, and many household 
articles which would be rendered useless by the 
ordinary method of cleaning, may by this process be 
restored to the original cleanness, and besides the 
expense of ripping apart and re-sewing is avoided. 

As previously mentioned the fluids chiefly used 
for this cleaning process are as follows: Benzine, 


6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

benzol, turpentine, and, in more modern times, carbon 
tetrachloride or tetrachloro-methane . 

i. Benzine, also known as petroleum spirit, is a 
water-white, limpid liquid, with the peculiar and 
characteristic odor of petroleum. It is highly in¬ 
flammable and requires handling with great care. 
It begins to evolve gas at 86° F., and boils between 
122° and 140° F. It is the second lightest product 
obtained during the refining of petroleum. It has a 
specific gravity of 0.730 to 0.760. A product hav¬ 
ing almost identical properties with benzine is shale 
naphtha, obtained by distilling Scotch shale. It has 
generally a slightly higher specific gravity, higher 
boiling-point, and is not so volatile as the petroleum 
product. 

As a solvent for oils and greases, benzine is not 
excelled, but no matter whence it may be derived, 
for the purpose of the garment cleaner, a product 
having a specific gravity of between 0.728 to 0.735 
is the best, so that it can be readily expelled from 
the garments at the normal heat of a stove. A pro¬ 
duct of less specific gravity is not required, and 
makes the process more expensive by reason of the 
greater loss due to evaporation during washing. A 
sufficiently accurate method for testing benzine as to 
its availability for dry cleaning is as follows: Pour 
the benzine in a clean, white porcelain dish, and 
allow it to spontaneously evaporate. No residue 
should remain in the dish, and no perceptible odor 
should adhere to the dish. 

It is a principal requisite that the benzine should 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR JFRENCH CLEANING. 7 

be free from odoriferous substances as otherwise the 
garments might retain a disagreeable smell. To be 
sure, benzine itself cannot be freed from its charac¬ 
teristic odor, but the latter can be completely ex¬ 
pelled by a suitable oven-heat. 

Benzine as found in commerce is not a definite 
chemical combination, but a mixture of hydrocar¬ 
bons of the paraffine series and must not be con¬ 
founded with the definite chemical compound benzol 
(C 6 H 6 ) of the aromatic series. 

While, as previously mentioned, benzine is not 
excelled as a solvent for oils and greases, its use is 
of no value for the removal of ordinary dust or dirt 
such as frequently collects on the bottoms of dresses 
and pantaloons. 

Benzine soap. When rubbed between the hands 
benzine causes a sensation of hardness which is due 
to the withdrawal of fatty substances from the skin. 
It has long been recognized that if an alkali, chiefly 
in the form of soap, or another chemical compound 
in a dissolved state, could be added to benzine, the 
cleaning power of the latter would be considerably 
increased, and its use could be extended to very 
dirty articles upon which, by itself, it exerts but 
little influence. For about twenty-five years en¬ 
deavors have been made to add soaps to benzine by 
attempting to dissolve thoroughly dried soaps in 
benzol, alcohol, turpentine, etc., and adding the re¬ 
sulting product to benzine. Under the name of 
benzine soaps various products are now found in the 
market, and are much used, forming in fact an im- 


8 DRV CI.EANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

portant item of the dry-cleaner’s outfit. In. 1893, 
Dr. M. Richter discovered that sharply-dried soaps 
of the alkaline earths, for instance, neutral magnesia 
soap, dissolve in benzine and possess the power of 
preventing electric excitation of the benzine and the 
consequent spontaneous firing caused thereby. The 
term antibenzinpyrin has been applied by the in¬ 
ventor to such soaps. 

According to Dr. Richter, the oleates soluble in 
benzine may be classified as follows: 

1. Hydrated acid oleate of the alkaline salts, called 
benzine soaps. 

2. Anhydrous normal oleates of the salts of the 
alkaline earths, called antibenzinpyrin. 

A very interesting fact is the power of the acid 
oleates to absorb water. This may be readily ob¬ 
served by adding, drop by drop, water to a ten per 
cent, solution of benzine soap. On shaking, the 
water yields a clear solution with the benzine soap. 
Attention may here be drawn to the fact that the 
goods to be cleaned always contain moisture, and as 
benzine does not mix with water, satisfactory results, 
without the use of benzine soap, can only be ob¬ 
tained by previously drying the goods as much as 
possible. With the use of benzine soap such drying 
is, however, superfluous. On coming in contact 
with the goods, the benzine soap absorbs the par¬ 
ticles of water contained in a finely-divided state in 
the goods, la)'s bare the fiber, and thus allows the 
benzine to exert its grease-dissolving power. Of 
course there is a limit to the water-absorbing power 
of benzine soap. 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 9 

The solubility of benzine soap is, however, only 
conditional. From solutions of less than 0.2 per 
cent, the soap is in a short time precipitated in the 
form of slime. Generally speaking, it may be laid 
down as a rule that the lower the-temperature and 
the more water the benzine soap has absorbed, the 
more readily precipitation will take place. 

In addition it maybe mentioned that the extremely 
disagreeable property of benzine soaps of being 
readily decomposed by weak acids is solely due to 
the content of water. 

The well-known fact that in wet washing of, for 
instance, carpets and curtains from smoking rooms, 
the soap frequently is suddenly broken, applies also 
to chemical washing, there being no doubt of its 
being caused by substances of an acid character. 
This difficulty which cannot be foreseen, is extremely 
annoying and, as it frequently occurs, may even be 
called a calamity, because by reason of the decom¬ 
position of the benzine soap, protection from electric 
ignition becomes illusive. The fact is that hydrated 
benzine soaps are only anti electric so long as they 
remain in solution and contain no more free oleic 
acid than the acid salt requires. 

Preparation of antibenzinpyrin .—Dissolve 22 lbs. 
best quality white-grain soap (75 per cent, fat) in 
water, and, at about 203° F., add magnesium chlor¬ 
ide or magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) so long 
as separation takes place. The semi-liquid magne¬ 
sium oleate floating on the surface is then removed 
and remelted with fresh boiling water. The product 


10 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

thus purified is wrapped in a linen cloth and freed 
from adhering water in a centrifugal. The product, 
which still contains water, is then slowly heated in a 
copper boiler to 266° F. by means of indirect steam. 
When the mass flows quietly, the steam is shut off, 
and 15 lbs. of odorless petroleum are stirred in. 
This anhydrous magnesium oleate is, while still in a 
liquid state, dissolved in 20 gallons of benzine. With 
the exception of a very slight sediment, the product 
should dissolve clear, and remain so; a slimy, white 
precipitate indicates that the magnesium oleate used 
still contained water, and consequently had not been 
long enough heated. Of this benzine solution one 
quart is to be used as an addition to every 25 gallons 
of benzine. Dilution may also be reduced to one- 
half, hence to about 10 to ti gallons. In this case 
one pint suffices for 25 gallons of benzine. 

A benzine soap, known as saponine , is manufactured 
by Gronewald & Stommel, Elberfeld, Germany. It 
forms a solid mass, somewhat softer than wax, and 
has a nearly white to yellowish-white color. It is 
an acid salt (alkaline oleate), which in addition, 
contains a small quantity of water as hydrate chem¬ 
ically fixed. Its reaction is slightly alkaline. It 
does not dissolve in distilled water. 

In water saponine can only be partly distributed, 
a milky fluid being formed which lathers strongly 
when shaken. On the other hand, it is soluble in 98 
per cent, alcohol, in amyl alcohol, ether, benzine, 
chloroform, acetic ether and carbon tetrachloride. 
By an addition of saponine the power of benzine as a 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. I I 

solvent is greatly increased, and by the content of 
soap it also acquires the capacity of absorbing more 
water than otherwise is the case without losing thereby 
its power of extracting fat and fatty substances. 

According to the English patent specification 
saponine is made by melting together equal or nearly 
equal parts of oleic acid and soap, the heating being 
continued until a clear liquid is obtained; it is then 
allowed to cool. 

Universal benzine soap is manufactured and brought 
into commerce by J. Simon & Diirkheim, Offenbach, 
Germany. It is a liquid, neutral soap, the fatty 
matters contained in it being completely saponified. 
In addition to soap it contains ingredients which by 
reason of their composition exert a powerful dis¬ 
solving effect, and serve for the removal of stains of 
resins, asphalt, tar, oil-paint, axle-grease, street 
dirt, etc. 

Weralin is manufactured by Oscar Gans, Halle, 
Germany. It is a liquid of a yellow color and has 
a not disagreeable odor reminding one of mirbane 
oil. The fluid when poured in a porcelain dish, 
evaporates in a short time, a yellowish soft soap- 
mass remaining behind. 

Liquid benzine soap is, brought into commerce by 
Egmont Koehler, Altenburg, Germany. It serves 
for washing colored and white glace gloves-. Ben¬ 
zine compounded with this soap readily removes by 
one application by means of a piece of felt all the 
dirt, even the hardest perspiration stains becoming 
soft thereby. 


12 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Very satisfactory soaps freely soluble in benzine 
to a clear solution can, according to Frank J. Farrell, 
be made by dissolving caustic soda or caustic potash 
in the smallest quantity of methylated spirit, and 
stirring it into the required quantity of oleic acid or 
melted stearic acid, and heating the mixture on a 
water-bath. In place of soda or potash, ammonia 
(0.880 specific gravity) may be employed, with or 
without the addition of methylated spirit. The fol¬ 
lowing quantities give satisfactory results. Oleic 
acid 5 parts by weight, caustic potash I part by 
weight dissolved in methylated spirits 4 parts by 
weight. 

The quantities are arranged to produce a slightly 
superfatted soap, freely soluble in benzine. By in¬ 
creasing the quantity of oleic acid, the solubility of 
the soap in benzine is increased. 

Ernest Regnal has patented in Germany a benzine- 
soluble soap solution of fatty acids, of animal as well 
as of vegetable origin, alcohol, ammonia and water, 
which contains about 38 per cent, of water For 
five to six garments about ]/ 2 to 1 lb. of this solution 
is to be added to the benzine to be used for washing, 
and about 2 lbs. for five suits, or 6 to’ 12 sauare 
yards of carpet. 

The fabrics to be cleaned are for a certain time 
subjected in the washing machine to the action of 
the benzine and the added soap solution, garments 
for 15 to 20 minutes, suits and carpets for 35 to 45 
minutes. 

After this treatment the articles are for a corres- 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 13 

ponding time washed in the machine with pure ben¬ 
zine, then centrifuged, and dried at a good heat in the 
usual manner. By the use of the above-mentioned 
soap solution, it is claimed, stains of all kinds, such 
as of beer, gravy, blood, or street-dirt are completely 
dissolved by reason of the presence of ammonia and 
the large content of water. 

A soap solution especially suitable for the process 
is obtained by heating 21 parts by weight of 25 per 
cent, ammonia, 9 parts by weight of alcohol and 23 
parts by weight of water, then adding about 47 parts 
by weight of a fatty acid, for instance, oleic acid, and 
allowing the whole to boil. In this manner a soap 
is obtained with about 5.3 per cent, of anhydrous 
ammonia, 9 per cent, of alcohol, 38 per cent, of water 
and 27 per cent, of fatty acid. This soap may also 
be prepared in such a way that, while the content of 
alcohol and fatty acid remains the same, that of an¬ 
hydrous ammonia rises from 2]/ 2 per cent, upwards 
and that of water from 21 per cent, upwards. 

Below a few formulas for the preparation of ben¬ 
zine soaps are given: 

I. By means of ammonia. Melt 100 lbs. crude 
tallow fatty acid at from 87° to 122° F., bring into 
the liquid mass 40 lbs. caustic lye (15.6 percent, 
caustic potash) of 17 0 B., stir thoroughly and add to 
the semi-solid mass, at an always constant tempera¬ 
ture, 8 to 10 lbs. of ammonia of 0.910 specific grav¬ 
ity, and 40 lbs. more of melted tallow fatty acid. 

The soap thus prepared can then be mixed in 
suitable proportion with benzine to form a paste. 


14 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

2. Liquid benzine soaps, a. Add 5 ° lbs. ethyl 
acetate or acetic ether to 3 lbs. best quality of soap 
which should be free from such additions as dextrin, 
potato flour or mineral substances. When solution, 
which is effected in the cold way, is complete, the 
soap is finished. It is then mixed with the suitable 
quantity of benzine and filled into bottles. 

b. Add to 15 lbs. of 90 per cent, alcohol 5 lbs. 
best quality pure white Marseilles soap and effect 
solution on a water bath. To the resulting solution 
add, without the assistance of heat, 50 lbs. of ben¬ 
zine, 10 lbs. of crude benzol and 5 lbs. white olein. 
Allow the mixture to settle and then siphon it off 
into tin bottles. 

Solid benzine soap . Olein 56.6 lbs., ammonia of 
0.91 specific gravity 6.8 lbs. Bring the olein into 
an enameled kettle provided with a stirrer and, 
whilst constantly stirring, run in the ammonia in a 
thin stream. By reason of the chemical reaction 
which takes place, the mass becomes at first heated 
and more liquified. Keep the stirrer in motion for 
about y hour till the mass becomes hard; when 
cold it is almost white. For the preparation of a 
soap of prime quality, the use of almost white olein 
and 25 per cent, ammonia is indispensable. The 
mass must not be heated during or after the opera¬ 
tion, as otherwise the ammonium oleate is again de¬ 
composed, and it must dissolve clear in benzine. 
If, however, a clear solution should not result, add 
gradually water in a thin jet until a sample dissolves 
clear in the solvent. Too much water, of course, 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. I 5 

renders the benzine turbid, and great care has to be 
observed during the entire operation. Chief condi¬ 
tions are: Unexceptional products as initial materials 
and constant vigorous stirring at as quick a pace as 
possible. 

Anhydrous acid extract of alkali dissolves in boil¬ 
ing benzine, but on cooling congeals to a jelly. 
However, by adding water very gradually, whilst con¬ 
stantly stirring, a point is reached when everything 
is, and remains, dissolved. If more water then be 
added, it is no longer absorbed by the benzine. 
For the technical preparation of such acid oleates, 
which after hydrating are called saponoleines and 
are used for benzine washing, three methods may be 
used. 1. Melting together molecular quantities of 
neutral alkaline soaps with olein. 2. Half satura¬ 
tion of oleic acid with caustic alkali or alkaline car¬ 
bonate. 3. Half saturation of the neutral oil soaps 
with stronger acids. 

2. Benzol or benzene. This liquid is obtained from 
the portion of coal tar boiling at 212° F. It is a 
water-white, limpid liquid, is strongly refractive, and 
has a peculiar aromatic odor and taste. It boils at 
from 176° to 212 0 F. Its specific gravity is 0.85 to 
0.88. It is easily inflammable, burning with a lum¬ 
inous, smoky flame. It is very volatile and when 
exposed to the atmosphere vaporizes without leav¬ 
ing behind any residue. It is a powerful solvent for 
all oils and fats, and yields excellent results in dry 
cleaning but, though somewhat cheaper now, is still 
too expensive for the purpose. 


1 6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Benzine can be distinguished from benzol in the 
following manner: Benzine is colored violet by a 
crystal of potassium iodide, while benzol is colored 
carmine. If to two cubic centimeters of benzine, 
three or four drops of a clear ether solution of sand- 
arac (i to io) are added a persistent cloudiness is 
produced in the benzine, while with benzol heated in 
the same manner the cloudiness will soon pass away. 
Finally, if the benzol is shaken with a drop of alco¬ 
hol, it will become clouded, while the benzine will 
remain clear. 

Benzol has not the slightest action on the most 
delicate tints and colors, and new stuffs frequently 
acquire a much finer appearance when washed with 
it previously to being sold. 

3. Turpentine. This product was formerly known 
as oil or spirit of turpentine, but these terms have in 
the course of time fallen into disuse, and the name of 
turpentine, originally applied to the resinous mater¬ 
ial itself, is now generally given to the volatile liquid 
used by painters for cleaning purposes, etc. 

Turpentine is obtained by distilling the oleo- 
resinous exudations of various species of Finns. 
The crude turpentine is put into a large still, heat is 
applied, and a little water from time to time added 
to the contents of the still. Distillation is continued 
so long as turpentine passes over, when the resinous 
residue is run off through a stop-cock at the bottom 
of the still, is passed through several strainers, and 
then constitutes rosin. On condensing the distillate, 
the turpentine separates from the water and is dipped 
into barrels, in which it enters commerce. 


DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. I 7 

Turpentine is a water-white, clear liquid of a 
peculiar and very characteristic odor. It is lighter 
than water, its specific gravity varying between 0.85 
and 0.87. It is insoluble in water, although it im¬ 
parts its odor to it. It boils at about 302° F., and 
is completely distilled at a temperature of 338° F.; 
old samples may, however, leave a very small residue 
behind them. 

Turpentine is readily combustible; it flashes at 
97 0 to 100 0 F., and at a slightly higher temperature 
burns with a luminous flame accompanied with the 
emission of much smoke. 

Of the different varieties of turpentine the French 
product is the best. It is, however, almost ex¬ 
clusively consumed in France itself, very little, if 
any, being exported. American and Russian tur¬ 
pentines are the next best varieties for the purpose of 
drv-cleaning. They have very similar properties, 
Russian turpentine having rather more odor than 
the American product. Austrian turpentine cannot 
be recommended, it always showing a slightly yel¬ 
lowish color even when thoroughly rectified. 

German turpentine obtained by destructive dis¬ 
tillation of various species of Pinns should not be 
used, as it possesses a peculiar odor which cannot 
be removed from garments treated with it. Besides, 
it rapidly turns yellow on exposure to air, and resini- 
fies. 

Although turpentine is an excellent solvent for 
grease, oils, etc., it is not a good material to use 
with the dry process, it being apt to leave behind a 


2 


18 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

somewhat unpleasant odor. This is more likely to 
be the case with Russian than with American tur¬ 
pentine, and when the garments are dried slowly. 
For this reason it is but seldom used, although fre¬ 
quently recommended for removing oil and paint 
stains from garments. 

There is no good reason for the generally prevail¬ 
ing idea that turpentine when used for cleaning silk 
stuffs, imparts to them a soft feel and greater luster 
and softness. 

Carbon tetrachloride or telrachloro-methane y CC 1 4 , 
is a colorless, mobile, volatile fluid, of a peculiar 
chloroform-like odor. It is heavier than water, 
having a specific gravity of 1.629; boiling-point 
170.6° F. It is now prepared on a large scale by 
the reaction of carbon bisulphide with chloride of 
sulphur which are both bodies readily and cheaply 
prepared by the direct union of their elements. 
Besides, the by-product of the reaction is free sul¬ 
phur, which can be reconverted into carbide and 
chloride, for use again as the whole of the sulphur 
is recovered. 

Carbon tetrachloride is coming more and more 
into use for dry cleaning, and in other ways as a 
solvent for fats and greases on account of its non¬ 
inflammability, which gives it an enormous advantage 
over benzine. Although still more expensive than 
benzine, it is cheaper than it used to be, and thanks to 
improved methods of manufacture, there seems to be a 
good chance that in the near future it will not greatly 
differ in price from benzine, which in time will prob- 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 19 

ably become more expensive. There is no limit to 
the artificial production of tetrachloride, but benzine 
cannot as yet be obtained except from petroleum, 
and it is impossible that this natural product will be 
obtained on the present enormous scale for a much 
longer time. It must not be forgotten, moreover, 
that the user of carbon tetrachloride has a great ad¬ 
vantage over the user of benzine in respect to fire 
insurance. Carbon tetrachloride is neither combus¬ 
tible nor explosive, and poured upon a fire puts it 
out exactly as so much water would do. It is 
slightly poisonous, but its fumes are no more dele¬ 
terious than those of benzine. 

Even the best samples of benzine are apt to leave 
some smell behind them in goods which have left the 
cleaner. Whatever may be thought of the smell of 
carbon tetrachloride during use it is only in the rar¬ 
est cases, when it has been used on heavy woolens 
for the most part, that it leaves any trace of odor 
perceptible to the dry-cleaner’s customers. More¬ 
over, the effect upon dyes has to be considered. 
Dry cleaning with benzine is less likely to affect sen¬ 
sitive dyes, especially in light shades, than wet wash¬ 
ing. It is, however, true that carbon tetrachloride 
affects such dyes as a class less than any kind of 
benzine, and is therefore especially adapted for 
cleaning garments dyed in delicate tints, and par¬ 
ticularly when the fabric is an expensive one, such 
as silk. These are evidently cases when the excess 
of cost to the cleaner involved in the use of carbon 
tetrachloride is of comparatively small importance. 


20 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Another advantage of carbon tetrachloride is that 
it can be used in combination with the cheaper ben¬ 
zine. The cleansing power of the mixture is at 
least equal to that of pure benzine, and the addition 
of the carbon tetrachloride checks to some extent 
any tendency to firing of the benzine by electricity 
or otherwise. 

In stain-removing, carbon tetrachloride is quite as 
effectual as benzine, and has much less tendency to 
spread out and make perceptible outlines at the 
place where it is applied. For this purpose it can 
also be mixed with benzine. In glove-cleaning car¬ 
bon tetrachloride leaves the leather softer and less 
liable to crack on stretching than is the case when 
benzine is used. 

One other important point still remains to be men¬ 
tioned. There is much loss by evaporation when 
benzine is employed, both during the use and during 
the storage of the liquid. In use this loss is largely 
unavoidable, but is less in the case of carbon tetra¬ 
chloride than with benzine, as the former has a 
higher boiling-point than the latter. In storage the 
loss which is so difficult to prevent in the case of 
benzine, especially when the stock is frequently 
drawn upon, can be completely avoided in the case 
of the tetrachloride by covering it with a deep layer 
of water. Carbon tetrachloride is more that half as 
heavy again as water, and will not mix with it. 
Hence the water swims on the top and effectually 
prevents all evaporation of the carbon compound, 
which can be drawn off at will from under the water. 


DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 


21 


It is well known that benzine is to some extent mis¬ 
cible with water, and also that wet benzine is quite 
useless for dry-cleaning purposes. The water over 
the carbon tetrachloride should be kept at a good 
depth, say three or four inches, so that there maybe 
not only an effectual barrier to the escape of carbon 
tetrachloride vapor which has a very perceptible 
tension in hot weather, but a superincumbent weight 
will accelerate the flow of the carbon compound 
from the reservoir. 

PRECAUTIONS IN DRY-CLEANING ESTABLISHMENTS. 

It is scarcely necessary to say that in working 
with benzine or benzol, and even with oil of turpen¬ 
tine, the greatest care has to be observed. Naked 
lights or a stove should not be allowed in the work¬ 
room. Where incandescent electric light is avail¬ 
able, the burner should be in a double air-tight glass 
cover. Failing electric light, the room should be lit 
from outside through an air-tight window. 

Benzine and benzol are not only highly inflam¬ 
mable in a liquid state, but have such low boiling 
points that they give off large volumes of vapor at 
ordinary temperatures. This vapor is of course 
combustible like the liquids, but unlike the latter, it 
can, by mixing with air, form a dangerous and 
powerful explosive. Two conditions must exist be¬ 
fore combustion or explosion can take place. One 
is that the liquid or the vapor must be in contact 
with oxygen, i. e. f in practice with the air, and the 
other is that there must be a sufficiently high tern- 


22 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

perature where the two meet to cause chemical 
action between them. If either of these conditions 
is absent there is no possibility of ignition or explo¬ 
sion. Now experience has shown that the tempera¬ 
ture which meets the second of the two essential 
conditions may be comparatively low, and may be 
reached in various ways with the intervention of a 
flame or an electric spark. 

In an ordinary dwelling house the use of ben¬ 
zine or gasoline is fraught with great danger. Both 
vaporize at ordinary temperatures, and the vapor is 
not absorbed in the atmosphere, but falls to the floor 
level, where it flows in a stream in the direction of 
any air current by which it may be affected. If this 
stream should happen to come in contact with a 
flame in another room, it would carry the fire back 
to the bulk of the benzine or gasoline and cause an 
explosion. 

Benzine-cleaning establishments should be de¬ 
signed and constructed with great care, so that there 
is no possible chance for vapors to collect and ignite 
from stray sparks, that there is no leakage, and 

finallv that the room where the work is done on the 
* 

material to be cleaned is so completely ventilated 
that the workmen can be present at all times without 
any danger to themselves. 

The stock-benzine should be stored in an iron tank 
located some distance from the works proper. Suit¬ 
able pipes leading to and from this building should 
be laid underground; or if overground, protected 
from leakage in troughs. A storage tank should be 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 23 

put in to receive the dirty benzine from the washers, 
and this can also be located in the storage house 
and preferably partially buried in the ground. 

The first washer should be located so that it can 
be easily charged with fluid either by gravity or by 
air pressure, and the second washer or rinser should 
be located so that its contents can be easily run off 
into the first washer without using an intermediate 
tank. 

The driers should be located in the open yard, or 
else on top of a building, but at any rate in such a 
place that the soaked material will not have to be 
conveyed any distance on account of the inflam¬ 
mable vapors. 

All vessels (hydro-extractors, washing and rinsing 
machines, etc.) containing inflammable liquids should 
have adequate covers, and should as far as practi¬ 
cable be kept closed during use. The covers, more¬ 
over, should be balanced, so that if forced open by 
explosion they will fall back by their own weight and 
cut off the air supply from the burning liquid ; or in 
case of rinsing vessels which cannot be kept closed 
during use, an iron cover should be suspended from 
above by a chain passing to a catch at some distance 
from the vessel, when in emergency it can be imme¬ 
diately set free, so that the cover will fall. In many 
large establishments the use of rinsing vessels has 
been entirely abandoned, and rinsing is effected in 
closed washing machines with clean benzine. A 
loud crackling noise heard while rinsing in benzine 
may be considered as a forerunner of spontaneous 


24 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

ignition. In this case allow the goods to rest 
quietly for some time in the vessel, and, if possible, 
introduce moist air into the room. Such spontaneous 
ignition occurs more frequently with white, than with 
dark-colored, goods. Attention is also directed to 
special safety appliances which are now available for 
the storage of inflammable liquids. 

By the means above described the risk of fire and 
explosion can be greatly lessened, but it is still neces¬ 
sary to make provision for minimizing these effects. 
There should be an ample water supply, with hy¬ 
drants and hose, in order to prevent the extension of 
flames, but water should not be used in attempts to 
extinguish burning benzine. For the latter purpose 
blankets and a supply of sand should be kept in 
readiness. Steam jets will be useful in the event of 
fire, as well as for the preventative purposes of humidi¬ 
fication when the air is dry. 

Ammonia is also an excellent fire-extinguishing 
agent. When thrown in a hearth it acts imme¬ 
diately; instead of flames, volumes of black smoke 
rise up, and every trace of fire disappears. As a fire 
may cut off the ordinary exit by the door, there should 
be provided an outside fire escape if the room is not 
on the ground floor. All persons employed should 
have clear instructions what to do in case of fire, and 
wear woolen or other non-imflammable outer gar¬ 
ments. 

Ignition by electric sparks, which is now recog¬ 
nized as the cause of most instances cf so-called 
spontaneous firing of benzine, is due to the fact that 


dry, chemical, or french cleaning. 25 

textile fabrics—especially undyed wool and silk— 
and many other materials become electrified when 
rubbed or moved quickly in benzine, and sparks 
may result causing explosion. 

According to Dr. W. Richter, it is a singular fact 
that spontaneous firing has never been observed in 
the morning, but always in the afternoon hours, and 
further, always when work is slack, and never in the 
busy season. Richter attributes spontaneous firing 
to the formation of sparks by the alteration of the 
positive electrjcity of the wool with the negative 
electricity of the benzine. Whether the formation 
of sparks is promoted by metals has not yet been 
determined. Spontaneous firing may also depend 
on a mixture of benzine, steam and air in certain 
proportions. Experiments have shown that the risk 
of sparking is greatly increased in frosty weather 
and when the air is especially dry. 

In Paris no dry-cleaning establishments are al¬ 
lowed within the city limits. This, of course, is a 
protection from fire as far as houses in the city are 
concerned, but not the establishment itself. To de¬ 
crease danger from fire, F. Fischer has recommended 
to artificially increase the content of moisture in the 
air by steaming or otherwise. This can be readily 
done if steam jets are available. While Dr. Richter 
considers this an excellent plan, it is unfortunately 
not very suitable for dry-cleaning establishments, as 
the moisture might impair the effect of chemical 
cleaning. It has also been recommended to increase 
the viscosity of benzine by the addition of fat, to 


2 6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


diminish friction. But neither this nor the addition 
of alcohol, ether, chloroform, or carbon tetra¬ 
chloride, has proved of any effectual use. 

As previously mentioned, benzine may be ren¬ 
dered less liable to ignition by electric sparks by the 
addition of soap. According to Dr. Gartenmeister, 
an addition of o.oi per cent, of magnesia soap pre¬ 
vents electric excitation in the goods so long as the 
magnesia soap is not separated by water or decom¬ 
posed by stronger acids. 

An addition of o.oi per cent, of benzine soap— 
hydrated acid alkali oleate—also prevents electric 
excitation so long as the soap is not precipitated as 
anhydrous soap by the withdrawal of water, or de¬ 
composed by a stronger acid. 

The employment of magnesia soap in addition to 
benzine soap is useless. 

For the prevention of electric excitation the re¬ 
quired small quantity—o.oi per cent, of benzine 
soap or magnesia soap—should be added to the pure 
benzine in which the washed goods are rinsed. 

However, in most cases the necessary quantity of 
benzine soap remains in the tissue from washing. 

In dry-cleaning establishments there is always 
some chance of the inhalation of benzine vapor which 
is a powerful nerve-poison. Even in minute doses 
it causes headache. The best method of prevention 
is thorough ventilation. A person suffering from 
the action of benzine vapor should be brought into 
the open air and cold water should be poured over 
his scalp. At the same time efforts should be made 
to induce vomiting. 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 27 

At one time it was claimed that the vapors of 
carbon tetrachloride were poisonous, but many tests 
made upon animals and birds, besides the records of 
cases where human beings were overcome with the 
vapors, led to the belief that it has no greater injur¬ 
ious qualities than benzine. * 

Treatment of burns. In few difficulties is early 
attention more imperative than in burns, hence the 
importance of useful knowledge on this subject that 
something effective may be done while waiting for 
the physician. 

Large superficial burns are more dangerous than 
small deep ones unless the latter are over a vital 
organ. As a rule, the amount of skin destruction 
measures the danger. Promptness of treatment has 
much influence on the outcome. Burns upon the 
abdomen give the highest mortality. 

The white of egg beaten up with sweet oil and 
bicarbonate of soda makes a very soothing applica- 
sion, protecting the surface from the air. If sweet 
oil is not at hand linseed oil or any other vegetable 
oil will do. 

It is well to have ready for application to burns 
of not very large extent an ointment compound as 
follows : Ichthyol ointment 1 oz.; carbolized petro¬ 
latum 1 oz.; zinc ointment 1 oz.; subnitrate of bis¬ 
muth 1 drachm; powdered opium 1 drachm. This 
ointment may be applied freely and will be found to 
give almost immediate relief. 

If a burned hand or foot is plunged at once into 
a basin of water into which a few spoonfuls of pow- 


28 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


dered saltpeter are placed, the pain often ceases at 
once. If it returns, adding fresh cold water and more 
saltpeter will again stop it. Follow this with one of 
the preparations mentioned, and you will do a great 
deal for the comfort of the patient. 

If the patient is much shocked by the burn give a 
teaspoonful of aromatic spirits of ammonia in some 
cool water, or a tablespoonful or two of brandy, and 
apply, to points not burned, hot water bags. Do this 
especially when there is chilliness and send for a 
physician at once. 

THE CLEANING PROCESS. 

The process of dry cleaning falls under two heads 
—washing proper and stain removing or “ spotting.” 
In the washing the goods are sorted as regards de¬ 
gree of dirtiness, color and material. Delicate 
articles are treated apart. The stain removing fol¬ 
lows the cleaning with benzine. It is by far the 
most difficult part of the whole treatment of the 
goods, because such stains as resist the benzine, as a 
rule, require water for their removal, so that all the 
dangers attend the use of water which dry cleaning 
is expressly designed to avoid. The only thing to 
be done is to use distilled water and to proceed with 
the utmost caution. Stains which resist both ben¬ 
zine and water must be treated individually. The 
subject of removing stains, or “ spotting ” as it is 
called, will be referred to later on. 

Dry cleaning is not adapted for every kind of 
tissue, and the first proceeding should be to sort the 
ggods to be cleaned. 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 29 

Suitable for the dry process are: 

a. White silk fabrics and ribbons, and such as 
contain other colors, but in which white is neverthe¬ 
less the prevailing color. 

b. Woolen and half-woolen fabrics. 

c. Silk-velvet and other colored silk stuffs. 

d. Light-colored woolen and half-woolen fabrics. 

e. Dark-colored articles. 

It is especially advisable to keep velvet, plush, and 
other goods with a pile surface separate from other 
kinds of material. 

Less suitable for dry cleaning are half-silk fabrics, 
as well as cotton and linen stuffs. 

Not suitable for dry cleaning are especially white 
linen and cotton pantaloons, vests, sun and rain um¬ 
brellas, satin shoes, etc. These articles, which, for 
reasons readily understood cannot be brought into 
the wash machine, require cleaning by hand with 
the tampion and brush. 

Colored articles which bleed when treated with the 
tampion must, of course be separated to prevent 
other stuffs, especially white or those with a white 
ground, from becoming smeared. This generally 
happens with stuffs dyed with tar colors, which have 
not been sufficiently steamed. 

There are a number of methods and several kinds 
of apparatus for carrying out the actual process of 
dry cleaning according to whether the work is to be 
done on a large or small scale; the principle of 
cleaning being, however, the same in every case. 

It is a great advantage and saving of time and 


30 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

benzine to get as much dust as possible beaten or 
shaken out of the garments. This is best done with 
whips on a mattress. If sticks are used buttons get 
broken and other damage ensues. A slowly revolv¬ 
ing dust wheel similar to, but smaller than, the type 
used for carpet beating, is a very good machine for 
the purpose. It may be either cylindrical or star¬ 
shaped, the latter being employed only for carpets, 
rugs, heavy curtains, etc. It is essentially a revolv¬ 
ing cage, varying in diameter from 5 feet to 14 feet, 
being constructed of wooden bars set slightly apart 
so that the dust, etc., loosened by the articles rub¬ 
bing against each other in the slow process of revo¬ 
lution may fall between them. Hooks should also 
be closed with pliers to prevent them catching and 
tearing anything. After beating the garments should 
be thoroughly brushed, especially the pockets, with a 
medium stiff brush. Too hard a brush is apt to tear 
the wool from men’s garments which may cause 
shiny spots. For garments of soft or fine texture a 
soft woolen rag made into a ball may be used in 
place of a brush. This woolen rag should be as 
near as possible of the same color as the article to be 
cleaned, i. e.> a light colored rag should be used for 
light stuffs and one of a dark or black color for dark 
stuffs. A chief requirement is that the brushes, 
rags, etc., used are themselves clean; further that 
they are perfectly dry, i. e. y free from moisture. 

Finally, the garments should be dried to remove 
any moisture they contain, as the presence of water 
prevents the benzine from acting. If there is water 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 3 I 

in the benzine or in the goods, damp places will be 
formed in the latter. These places retain their own 
dirt and absorb dirt from their immediate neighbor¬ 
hood, and the dirt in them is effectually protected 
from the detergent action of the benzine. The result 
is that the goods leave the washing machine covered 
irregularly with dark stains. If treated at once these 
stains can generally be removed quite readily by 
means of a good rubbing and brushing with benzine 
soap. If, however, the goods have been dried they 
often resist this treatment successfully, and nothing 
remains to be done but to wash them all over again, 
taking care of course to use perfectly dry benzine. 
It is obvious, however, that, on the ground of 
economy, both of benzine and of time and labor, 
prevention is better than cure, and the following 
simple method is invariably successful. Should the 
benzine be wet, a few yards of white and perfectly 
dry cotton cloth should be run in the machine with 
the benzine for a few minutes. The cotton wilt ab¬ 
sorb the whole of the moisture, and after its removal 
the ordinary washing can be safely placed in the 
machine. After the cotton has been used a few 
times for drying the benzine, it cannot be trusted to 
take up the water efficiently. It is, therefore, cen¬ 
trifuged, dried, wet-washed, and again made abso¬ 
lutely dry. It can then be used again for the same 
purpose. If this procedure is followed, the same 
piece of cotton can be almost indefinitely used. 

In smaller establishments the actual process of 
dry-cleaning may be carried on as follows: 


3 2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Five vessels sufficiently large to allow of the con¬ 
venient handling of the stuffs to be treated in them 
are used. The vessels may be of zinc-sheet, though 
it is better to have them made of copper sheet, or to 
employ large stone-ware pots such as are much used 
in the chemical industry. Each vessel should be 
provided with a well-fitting lid. The vessels should 
be cylindrical in form and greater in depth than 
diameter. 

Fill the vessels three-quarters full with benzine, 
and then sort the articles which are to be cleaned. 
Separate the lighter from the darker, and in this 
manner arrange several piles of articles. Spread out 
each article, first the lighter and last the darker, 
upon a table covered with zinc-sheet, (see Fig. 7) and 
remove the worst stains. For this purpose tie a 
piece of wadding, the size of a fist and made into a 
ball, into a piece of white linen so that the corners 
of the latter can be used as a handle. This con¬ 
trivance is called a “ tampion.” Now dip the tam¬ 
pion into benzine in a dish until it is thoroughly 
saturated, and vigorously rub the dirtiest places until 
the greater portion of the dirt is removed. Proceed 
in the same manner with all the articles, the darker 
being taken last, because by repeatedly dipping the 
tampion into the benzine, the latter acquires a 
darker color. 

The benzine remaining after the operation is fin¬ 
ished is poured into a large vessel, which is provided 
with a well-fitting lid. Now wash the articles treated 
with the tampion, one after the other, in vessel No. 1, 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 33 

throw them into vessel No. 2, and cover the latter. 
Then thoroughly wash lot No. 1 with the hands, and 
in the meanwhile bring the articles in vessel No. 2 
into No. 3. Now throw the washed lot No. 1 into 
vessel No. 2, and then commence washing the next 
lot, bringing in the meanwhile the articles in vessel 
No. 3 into No. 4, and those in No. 2 into No. 3. The 
lot washed next is then thrown into vessel No. 2. 

This changing of the articles from one vessel to 
the other is done for the purpose of always bringing 
the first lot, that is, the white pieces, in contact with 
pure benzine, the latter becoming constantly darker 
by washing the articles. The articles first treated 
are finally again washed in vessel No. 5, then spread 
out upon the table and examined. If dirty places 
are still found, the articles are rubbed with a clean 
tampion dipped into the benzine in vessel No. 5, and 
then for some time placed in vessel No. 5. From 
the latter they are thrown into a vessel provided with 
a lid, in which the adhering benzine drains off and 
is from time to time removed by tilting the vessel. 
The articles are finally wrung by passing them 
between the rolls of a wringer, or, still better, the 
adhering benzine is removed by means of a centri¬ 
fugal worked by hand. The articles are then dried 
in quite hot, closed, drying-chambers, provided with 
contrivances tor the escape and condensation of the 
benzine vapors. 

By this treatment the articles are thoroughly 
cleaned as far as can be done with benzine. It 
must, however, be mentioned that all stains produced 

3 


34 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

by alkalies, acids, sugar, milk, etc., resist the action 
of -benzine. The same is also the case with the 
so-called sweat-stains, which are caused by a change 
in the color. To remove such stains, the separate 
places must be subjected to a special treatment, as 
will be explained later on. 

The method above described is very practical, but 
possesses the inconvenience of the operator being 
much exposed to the vapors of the benzine. This 
may, however, be avoided by carrying on the work 
under a well-drawing chimney. 

For draining the articles, a tall cylindrical vessel 
of zinc or copper, provided with a perforated false 
bottom, is generally used. The adhering benzine 
drains off through the perforated bottom, and is from 

m 

time to time drawn off through a cock near the true 
bottom of the vessel. The vessel may also be pro¬ 
vided with a movable lid and screw, so that by ap¬ 
plying pressure this portion of the operation is ac¬ 
celerated. 

Silk articles are simply washed by hand in the 
above-described manner, as otherwise they would 
suffer too much. Besides, if only individual stains 
have to be removed, the articles, with the exception 
of the stained portion, remain intact, and the latter 
itself is only treated with the greatest care. 

For working on a larger scale, the arrangement 
above described is, however, unsuitable. As far as 
numbers go, small dry-cleaning establishments, how¬ 
ever, exceed the large plants, and they, as a rule 
fight shy of the installation of a complicated and ex- 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 35 

-\ 

pensive system. The arrangement to be described 
here depends on using a heavy benzine of 0.74 to 
0.85 specific gravity for washing and rinsing. After 
cleansing the goods are dried in a closed chamber 
from which the benzine vapors pass to a condenser. 

The use of heavy benzine has many advantages. 
Being less volatile than the lighter kinds it does not 
waste so much by evaporation, neither is it so liable 
to accidents by fire. The condensation of the vapor 
is obviously easier, requiring less cold water for one 
thing than is the case with a low gravity benzine. 

The plant necessary consists of a washing machine, 
a rinser, a recuperation drying chamber heated by 
steam or hot air, and connected with a small air 
pump, two benzine reservoirs, a still and a worm. 
An extractor and a cleaning table will also be needed. 

The washing machine is placed at as low a level 
as possible, so that it can be supplied with rinsing 
benzine by gravitation. 

The drying room is mounted above the floor but 
at an easily accessible height. It should be made as 
small as possible according to the average amount 
of goods which have to be dried in it at a time, so 
as to save expense of making a vacuum therein. 

The drying chamber is fltted with vertical partitions 
which compel the current of hot air to pursue a cir¬ 
cuitous course, as some of the partitions are fixed 
to the floor of the chamber and do not reach the 
roof of it, while others, alternating with them, are 
fixed to the roof and do not quite reach the floor. 
It is a good plan to apply an insulating coating to 


36 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


the outside of the chamber to prevent loss of heat. 
The air pump provides the current of air and should 
have a piston diameter of from 3 to 5 inches. 

All machines and vessels used in a dry-cleaning 
establishment should be hermetically closed in order 
to prevent evaporation of the solvent employed. 

All kinds of benzine washing machines, both for 
hand and power, are on the market, and there should 
be no difficulty in finding a suitable one. It should 
close hermetically, be easy to get at in all its parts, 


Fig. 1. 



work evenly, and be kept scrupulously clean. The 
simplest form of machine is merely a closed cylinder 
divided into two parts lengthwise by a set of parallel 
pipes, and capable of rotation on its axis, which is 
kept horizontal. The best material is iron, all inner 
parts being galvanized or tinned. The speed of 
rotation is from twenty to twenty-five turns per 
minute. The stuff is on one side of the pipes only, so 
that, it is dipped into the benzine at every revolution, 
and can be taken out after it has been left to drain 
in the cylinder. 




DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 37 

A better form of machine, however, is a rotating 
cage, into which the goods are put. It turns inside 
a fixed cylinder containing the benzine, into which 
the lower half of the cage dips. The cage is divided 
lengthwise in the same manner as the rotating 
cylinder in the first machine. 

Fig. I shows a power-driven washing machine. 
The outside shell or tub is made of hard brass or 
galvanized iron of ample strength, riveted on cast- 


Fig. 2. 



iron heads, the joints of which are planed and fast¬ 
ened together with bolts. These are made perfectly 
oil-tight. The tub is fitted with a sliding door and 
patent reverse movement. Only cut gears are used, 
all of which are protected by guards. 

The cylinder or cage of the machine shown in 
Ficr. 2, is made of No. 13 half-hard brass, riveted on 
to the flange of the cast-iron spiders, which form the 












38 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT OYER. 


heads. The flange extends over the sheet brass, 
thereby relieving the rivets of the strain caused by 
the falling of the goods. The inside surface of the 
cast-iron spiders is covered with brass or copper. 
The special process of embossing the brass cylinder 
leaves no sharp edges to tear or damage the goods, 
as the ridge of the perforation is rolled over and 
forms a solid and smooth bead which adds strength 
to the plates. The hinges extend across the length 


Fig. 3. 



of the door and serve to prevent the springing of the 
latter. 

Fig. 3 shows a washing machine of similar con¬ 
struction for hand-power. 

The apparatus, Figs. 4 and 5, in which the articles 
are washed, rinsed and drained and the spent ben¬ 
zine is clarified, has been patented by H. Resell, 
Loerrach, Baden, Germany. Fig. 4 is the apparatus, 
and Fig. 5 a section through the centrifugal drum. 
The drum c is filled with articles to be washed when 










DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 39 


there is no benzine in the receptacle a and, when the 
receptacle has been tightly closed by shutting down 
the cover b, the benzine out of one funnel, say g % 
is passed into the receptacle a by means of the pump 
K and pipes m i, the capacity of the receptacle and 


Fig. 4. 



funnels"being p so proportioned that the benzine when 
in the receptacle a, will reach the required level. 
The drum which is immersed in the benzine is then 
rocked by means of the hand wheel d so that it will 
scoop up benzine by means of the scoop e and throw 
















































40 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


it over the articles. When the articles have been 
sufficiently washed the cock f is opened to allow the 
dirty benzine to flow into the funnel g and the 
articles are drained by the centrifugal action of the 
drum e. The cock f is then again closed, and the 
clarified benzine from the funnel g 1 pumped into the 
receptacle a by means of the pump K in order to 

t 

rinse the clothes, and in the meantime the benzine 
in the funnel g is allowed to clarify. Thus, the 
clothes are treated in clear benzine several times; 
they are washed and rinsed without it being neces¬ 
sary to open the receptacle a , and this treatment 
may be repeated as many times as there are funnels 
provided. The articles are, of course drained in the 
drum c after each working operation. When the 
articles have been sufficiently rinsed and the re¬ 
ceptacle a has been emptied by allowing the benzine 
which has been used to flow into the corresponding 
funnel, the clothes are completely drained by quickly 
revolving the centrifugal drum c } and the benzine 
drained out flows into one or the other of the fun¬ 
nels. When the cock f is in the closed position, the 
rinsed articles are taken out of the drum compart¬ 
ments and articles which are to be cleaned placed 
there instead. Since the receptacle a is tightly 
closed during the entire operation there can be no 
loss of benzine and all danger of fire is obviated. 

Was/iing .—If the goods are much stained or are 
specially dirty in places, all such stains or dirty 
places should be well brushed over with benzine- 
soap. The benzine in the washing machine will not 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 41 

remove encrusted dirt or obstinate stains unless this 
preliminary step has been taken, and goods which 
have been brushed over with benzine-soap in places 
must be allowed to lie for a time before going into 
the machine, so that the soap may have time to 
loosen the impurities sufficiently to enable the ben¬ 
zine in the washing machine to get rid of them 
altogether. 

It is important from many points of view to shorten 
the actual benzine washing as much as possible. 
These points—the saving of time, labor, waste of 
benzine, etc.—are obvious enough, and it is espe¬ 
cially obvious that the benzine-soap treatment just 
mentioned is most useful in this respect. 

One or two other points may be mentioned. 
Small fragile articles should not be washed loose, 
but in muslin bags. Feather boas and feather orna¬ 
mented articles generally must be tested before dry 
cleaning to discover with what substance the feathers 
have been stuck on. If this substance is soluble in 
benzine it is naturally futile to attempt to dry-clean 
the goods, and if it is insoluble, care must be taken 
that the feathers are not torn off or damaged by the 
mechanical effect of the rotation of the machine. 
Mother-of-pearl must never be allowed to touch ben¬ 
zine, which destroys its lustre, so that buttons, etc., 
of that material must be taken off before the garment 
is dry-cleaned. 

The lightest-colored goods are taken first and run 
from 10 to 15 minutes in the washer filled with fresh 
benzine. This is followed by a rinse in a second 


42 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

machine with fresh benzine, while the darker goods 
go into the first machine without the benzine in it 
being changed. Or the rinsing may follow the wash¬ 
ing in the same machine, removing the dirty benzine 
to the still for recovery. Benzine used once for 
rinsing may, as above mentioned, be used without 
purifying for the first wash for darker goods or dirty 
material. 

The rinsed goods are lifted from the machine and 
taken to the hydro-extractor or centrifugal machine 
for the removal of the excess of solvent. The ben¬ 
zine thus extracted is allowed to flow back into a 
storage tank for future use. Provision for thorough 
lubrication of the hydro-extractor, especially when 
running at a high speed, must be made to minimize 
the risk of overheating. If the hydro-extractor is 
connected to the benzine tank, a gauze interceptor 
must be provided to prevent any flame passing down 
the pipes into the storage tanks. 

There are many types of hydro-extractors, some 
being made with the driving arrangement under¬ 
neath, and are known as under-driven hydro-ex¬ 
tractors ; this allows of the employment of a tight- 
fitting lid. Others have all the working parts at the 
top of the machine and are known as over-driven 
hydro-extractors. The principle is, however, the 
same in all the machines, an inner perforated cage 
revolving at great speed in which the goods are 
placed. By the centrifugal action set up on the 
revolution of the machine, the solvent contained in the 
articles placed in the inner cage or basket is forced 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 43 


to the circumference of the cage, and finds its way 
through the perforations of the latter, and is con¬ 
ducted away by the outer casing. In hydro-ex¬ 
tractors practically no pressure is brought upon the 
goods, the pile of such goods as velvets and plushes 
is not injured in any way, so that they are in a fit 
condition for other treatment. The operation with 


Fig.,6 . 



hydro-extractors is very simple ; all that is necessary 
is to pack the goods well round the sides of the inner 
cage, taking care that the latter is properly balanced, 
that is to say, that one side does not contain a 
heavier weight than the other. 

Fig. 6 shows the Cincinnati hand extractor, which 
can be easily converted into a power machine by 




44 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


slipping onto the crank shaft a pair of tight and 
loose pulleys. The gears are accurate and prac¬ 
tically noiseless in operation. The basket is sus¬ 
pended on steel ball bearing, and is 24 inches in 
diameter and 14 inches high. 

The centrifuged goods are examined, and well 
brushed over with a solution of benzine soap in ben¬ 
zine. The garment is spread out on the top of a 
table covered with zinc, and furnished with a rim, an 

1 

outlet pipe, and box for soap and brush, Fig. 7. 


Fig. 7. 



The top of the table thus constitutes a shallow tank, 
and all unnecessary loss of benzine is avoided. After 
the brushing the goods may either be again run in 
the machine with fresh benzine containing benzine 
soap, or worked in the solution in a vat. Finally the 
goods are centrifuged and hung up for the rest of 
the benzine to evaporate. 

When the pieces leave the hydro-extractor they 
are almost dry, but in order to thoroughly free them 
from fumes they must air several hours in a warm 










DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 45 

a 

room. This evaporating room must be warmed by 
means of hot air or steam heat, direct fire being of 
course out of the question. 

In the above-described manner even rather dirty 
goods will be turned out in a faultless condition, and 
only in rare cases subsequent washing with soap 
will be required. Even very dirty goods will often 
require only a final brushing with cold water after 
the evaporation of the benzine. It is, however, very 
important to remember that, if soap must be used, 
the temperature of the soap bath must in no case 
exceed 8o° F. 

White woolen and silk goods are brushed over 
with a somewhat weaker solution of benzine soap in 
benzine, and run for from 10 to 15 minutes in the 
washer. As regards silk this is done on account of 
the greater danger of explosion, and wool readily 
turns gray, especially in damp weather and with 
fresh benzine. Benzine several times distilled is, on 
the whole, better for white goods than fresh benzine, 
the former being specifically lighter than the latter, 
and the goods turning out more beautiful the specifi¬ 
cally lighter the benzine is. 

White goods after being well dried and brushed, 
and hooks and eyes, buckles and other sharp objects 
attached to them removed, are thoroughly washed 
with a strong solution of benzine soap. They are 
then immediately rinsed in a bath mixed with weak 
benzine soap solution and next hydro-extracted. 
The goods are then brought into a washing machine 
containing benzine and well-dissolved benzine soap, 


46 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

and run in the machine for 15 to 20 minutes, when 
they are rinsed twice in clean benzine. When thus 
cleaned, remaining stains are easy to remove and the 
goods turn out better than by dry washing after re¬ 
moving the stains. White uniforms and fancy cos¬ 
tumes, if the lining and make-up permit, are best 
brushed off with water feebly acidulated with hydro¬ 
chloric acid, and hard material is steamed moist. 

Colored silks, when very dirty and stained, cannot 
be properly cleaned by the dry process, but the then 
necessary wet cleaning should be preceded by a 
washing with benzine. When the silk is thus par¬ 
tially cleaned, the wet washing can be of a gentler 
character, and will be more rapidly effected, and the 
colors will suffer much less from it. One point 
which deserves special attention is the frequent oc¬ 
currence of red stripes interwoven in the waists of 
ladies’ blouses. These red stripes usually give up 
their dye to the benzine, whereby not only the silks, 
but everything else in the machine is ruined. 
Waistbands containing such stripes must always be 
removed from the garment before cleaning. Small 
articles are cleaned together in a coarse muslin bag, 
otherwise they are very liable to be lost. If a wet 
cleaning must follow the chemical treatment, make 
a lukewarm solution of a gall soap, or of a good 
neutral, olive-oil soap. Then spread the article on 
a clean surface—best on a slab of marble—and apply 
the soap to it with a soft brush, or if the silk is very 
fine, with a sponge. Work as rapidly as possible to 
lessen the chance of the color being affected, rinse 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 47 

thoroughly but expeditiously, and immediately after¬ 
wards place the silk in an acetic acid bath. Centri¬ 
fuge the articles rolled separately in calico. After 
drying dress with a solution of gelatine, and press. 

Although by washing in the machine, most of the 
grease and dirt attached to the goods are removed, 
there are, as previously mentioned, frequently stains 
of paint, acid, fruit, etc., which are not affected or 
removed by the benzine. It is therefore necessary 
to subject the goods to a thorough examination after 
they have been taken from the washing machine, 
and if stains are found, to remove them by special 
means, which will be referred to later on. 

Cleaning and renovating real velvet goods. This 
kind of work constitutes a special department in 
cleaning establishments and will therefore be here 
discussed in detail. As a rule, goods of this class 
are injured by having been crushed or exposed to 
rain. The cleaner’s office, therefore, is to remove 
the spots and other damages arising from these 
causes. The operation consists of two processes, 
namely, cleaning and steaming. First of all the vel¬ 
vet must be freed from dust, which is best accom¬ 
plished by placing the article on a soft foundation 
and beating thoroughly with an ordinary beater, such 
as is used for upholstered furniture. The article is 
next manipulated with a wire brush, special atten¬ 
tion being given to particularly hard spots. When 
the article has thus been freed from dust, it is thor¬ 
oughly rubbed with benzine, applied with a soft 
woolen rag, special attention being paid to the dam- 


48 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


aged parts. Stains caused by oil, paint, tar, varnish, 
etc., which do not yield to the treatment with ben¬ 
zine or chloroform, are removed by covering them 
with butter or lard, allowing them to stand for some 
time, and rubbing again with benzine. The article 
is then dried with the assistance of heat, and rubbed, 
in the same manner as with benzine, with rectified 
alcohol, using a soft woolen rag and giving special 
care to spots caused by crushing and rain. Should 
there be spots due to corrosive substances, they 
should be treated with a mixture of alcohol and am¬ 
monia ; but in case the color is not revived by this 
means, a little logwood and green vitriol (ferrous 
sulphate) must be used to restore it. The spots 
thus dyed are allowed to dry and are again brushed. 
Very dirty articles must be entirely cleaned with 
benzine. 

When the velvet has been thoroughly cleaned, 
that is, clean to the backing, steaming may be pro¬ 
ceeded with. This is done on the steaming board, 
which is covered with a thick woolen cover, over 
which a soft linen cloth is drawn to prevent the 
steam from being too moist when it strikes the 
velvet. Care should be taken to use steam as dry 
as possible. The steam valves must close properly 
so that the flow of steam can be regulated at will. 
Everything being in order, the article is stretched 
smoothly over the steam board, and a little steam 
being turned on, the damaged places are thoroughly 
scrubbed with a small sharp brush—a nail brush will 
do—until they have been restored, after which they 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 49 

are brushed with a larger softer brush, in order to 
remove gloss and the former brush marks, and to 
give the whole a uniform appearance. The steam 
is then allowed to flow in with greater force, but the 
article must not become too hot, so that after clos¬ 
ing the valve, it will not become moist by the con¬ 
densation of the steam. Good light is a special 
requisite, and the work should be done in a place 
free from all draught, for a single cold draught of air 
is sufficient to spoil all. If, however, notwithstand¬ 
ing every precaution, an article becomes damp, it 
must at once be dried and the process repeated. 
Every portion of a ripped garment as well as every 
part of a whole article should be secured with pins 
so that no shifting can take place. When all the 
stains have been removed, the articles are exposed 
to a heavy flow of steam for the purpose of equaliz¬ 
ing the whole. Whole velvet jackets are for this 
purpose hung upon broad hangers so that the sleeves 
are well spread out and care should be taken not to 
touch the articles while still warm or damp. 

Articles which may have become dull may be 
rubbed with a soft woolen rag moistened with oil 
dissolved in benzine, but this must be done very 
carefully and uniformly. 

These directions if carefully followed will insure 
success, but the work is not so easy as it looks on 
paper; dexterity and care are both necessary, and a 
certain routine is only acquired by practice. 

Large establishments have specially constructed 
velvet-steamers. Such an apparatus is so constructed 


4 


50 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

that owing to interior partitions, the water must ab¬ 
solutely separate from the steam. In addition the 
steam-pipe is provided with a discharge pipe for the 
condensed water. The steamer is constructed of 
copper and enclosed on all sides, so that the steam 
can escape only in front where it is to act. 

After having been cleaned the article is most suit¬ 
ably steamed by not taking too large a surface at one 
time, but steaming a portion thoroughly, brushing 
with a hard brush from bottom to top, and repeating 
brushing and steaming until the velvet shows a uni¬ 
form appearance. When thus the entire surface of 
the garment has been uniformly treated, a gentle 
flow of dry steam is again passed through. Finally, 
the garment is brushed from top to bottom. By 
this process velvet and plush are made to look like 
new. 

It is useless to attempt to clean light-colored silk 
velvets if they are much stained. In that case they 
are cleaned with soap applied with a brush the right 
way of the nap, and then lightly dyed with an acid 
dye of their own color to hide the stains. Bad 
stains cannot be got rid of without the aid of brush¬ 
ing. The brush used must have long stiff bristles, 
must be kept scrupulously clean, and must be used 
gently. It is useless to save time by brushing hard. 

Every velvet article must be treated according to 
the special circumstances of the case, and it may 
happen that the cleaner has a number of garments, 
of which no two can be treated in exactly the same 
manner. White silk velvets are frequently best 


DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANiNG. 5 I 

cleaned by wet washing and bleaching. Pressed 
velvet blouses require a special treatment. Very 
small stains should be damped and removed, if pos¬ 
sible by careful use of the finger nail, taking care 
not to work against the nap. In brushing care must 
be taken not to injure the pattern, and the steaming 
before the final brushing with a soft brush must be 
very slight indeed. 

In removing stains from ladies cloth coats , care 
must be taken not to make them too wet. There is 
of course extra risk of doing so if the stains are 
numerous or obstinate. The luster suffers by over¬ 
wetting, and it is impossible to restore it by hand¬ 
ironing. Rain stains are very common on such 
garments, and are best removed by ironing them 
under a damp cloth, between which and the stain 
must again be laid a dry cloth, so that only steam 
reaches the stain which is then absorbed by the dry 
cloth. Dust stains on silk are removed by benzine, 
as the use of water merely substitutes a water stain 
for the original mark. 

Dry-cleaning carpets. The processes to be se¬ 
lected in carpet cleaning depend on the size of the 
carpet, on the way in which it has been dyed, and 
on the degree of dirtiness. Unskillful cleaning often 
results in making the carpet quite worthless. It 
cannot be expected that all the colors in a many- 
colored carpet should be fast to washing, and it con¬ 
stantly happens that dark patterns bleed on to a 
light-colored ground. 

If a carpet is obviously unfitted for wet washing it 


52 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

must be dry-cleaned. This requires very large 
washing machines, holding several hundred gallons 
of benzine. However, a carpet not too dirty can be 
cleaned by first freeing it from dust by beating, or 
better, by the vacuum process. It is then spread 
out upon a floor and rubbed, section by section, 
with a linen cloth tightly rolled together and soaked 
in benzine and benzine soap. This will freshen the 
colors and clean the carpet. Weak acetic acid may 
also be applied, and the carpet then dried and 
steamed. 

PURIFICATION OF BENZINE. 

It is of the greatest importance to every dry-cleaner 
to recover as much as possible of the benzine which 
he has employed for removing dirt and grease so 
that it can be again used for the same purpose. 
Many methods for doing this have been proposed, 
and a few of them will here be described. 

Filtering. The benzine is filtered in succession 
through sand, charcoal and flannel. A suitable fil¬ 
tering apparatus consists of a zinc drum from 40 to 
50 inches high and 13 to 14 inches in diameter, pro¬ 
vided with a closely-fitting cover and with a conical 
lower end. At the bottom of the cylindrical part of 
the drum is a perforated plate to support the filter¬ 
ing medium which consists of a felt layer about one 
and a half inches thick, covered with clean sand, 
which is itself covered by coarsely-powdered animal 
charcoal or well-burnt wood charcoal. A tap at the 
bottom of the conical drum admits the withdrawal of 


DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 53 

the filtered benzine. The felt must be washed from 
time to time, and fresh sand and charcoal put in. 
While filtered benzine is not sufficiently colorless for 
use on light-colored articles, it answers very well for 
those dyed with dark or medium shades. 

Purification of benzine with sulphuric acid. The 
benzine is compounded with dilute (to ^ per 
cent.) sulphuric acid and allowed to stand quietly 
for 24 to 36 hours, when it will be sufficiently clari¬ 
fied and can at once be used. Although benzine so 
purified can be used without disadvantage for all silk 
and all wool grades, the acid which it retains makes 
it extremely destructive of all cotton fabrics, so that 
it is inadmissible even with silk or woolen goods, if 
they are lined with cotton. This destructive action 
comes on with time in any case, but immediately if 
the articles are ironed. 

This drawback may, however, be remedied by the 
following process: Bring the benzine into a large 
earthenware vessel, and while stirring constantly, 
mix it with sulphuric acid in the proportion of one 
quart acid to 100 quarts benzine. Allow the mixture 
to stand quietly 24 to 48 hours. If, however, the 
benzine is to be used the next day, draw it off care¬ 
fully into a lead-lined, sheet-iron vessel and mix it 
with one pound of lime powder, obtained by slaking 
ordinary lime; the powder should be perfectly dry. 
In about 12 hours all the dirt and lime will have 
settled on the bottom of the vessel. The benzine is 
then drawn off through a tap placed about four 
inches above the bottom of the vessel. Benzine 


54 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

thus purified has an odor different from that of the 
fresh or distilled product; the odor, however, disap¬ 
pears immediately on drying. The benzine is not 
perfectly water-white, it showing a yellowish tint; 
but it can without hesitation be used for goods of 
dark and light colors, including silk. Even white 
garments turn out perfectly clear if after washing 
with the clarified benzine they are rinsed in fresh 
benzine. 

The method of clarifying benzine invented by 
Hasselbach is said to yield very satisfactory results. 
It consists in mixing the benzine with from i to 2 
per cent, of its weight of concentrated sulphuric 
acid, the quantity depending on the amount of dirt 
in the benzine. The mixture of benzine and acid is 
well shaken and allowed to stand until it has com¬ 
pletely separated into two layers. The upper layer 
of benzine is then decanted and mixed thoroughly 
with i per cent, of its weight of the following solu¬ 
tion : Alum, 20 ozs.; acetate of lead, 12 ozs.; sul¬ 
phate of magnesia, 5 ozs.; sulphate of soda, 5 ozs.; 
water, 10 gallons. The mixture is allowed to stand 
and decanted from the precipitated lead sulphate 
before use. The acetate of alumina eventually pres¬ 
ent throws out all the fatty acids from the benzine. 
The soluble sulphates make the liquid heavy, so that 
the purified benzine will rise to the surface, whence 
it can be drawn off for further use. 

Deodorization of benzine. Dissolve in the badly 
smelling benzine about 1 to 2 per cent, of its weight 
of a free fatty acid. Then add about per cent. 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 55 

of tannin and mix intimately. Finally add suffi¬ 
cient soda or potash lye, eventually also milk of 
lime, to saponify the fatty acid and neutralize the 
tannin, and shake repeatedly. After some time the 
milky fluid separates into two layers—a salty, sapon¬ 
aceous slime on the bottom and supernatant clear 
benzine almost free from color and odor. This 
benzine when decanted and filtered may be at once 
used for many technical purposes, and when dis¬ 
tilled yields an excellent and pure product. The 
fatty acids of tallow, olive oil, or of other fats and 
oils, may be used for the purpose, but they should 
show but little odor of rancid fat. Oleic acid may 
also be employed, but it must previously be shaken 
with a y 1 ^ per cent, soda solution to get rid of the 
badly smelling volatile fatty acids, especially butyric 
acid. 

Purification of benzine by distillation. The best, 
and in fact only satisfactory process for the recovery 
and purification of benzine as yet known is distilla¬ 
tion. In proper hands the distillation is not only 
perfectly safe, but it wastes less of the benzine than 
any other purification process. In clearing benzine 
with sulphuric acid or benzine powders, the organic 
dirt particles undergo a change by which the dirty 
gray coloring turns clear and yellowish, but a per¬ 
fectly colorless fluid which could be safely used for 
cleaning white or light-colored articles is not ob¬ 
tained. Besides it is doubtful whether the benzine 
thus cleared possesses the strength and power be¬ 
longing to fresh or distilled benzine. Benzine cleared 


56 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


by repeated filtering will certainly lose the greater 
part of its dirt, but none of the grease and soap ab¬ 
sorbed by it. Benzine cleared in this manner will 
also not be perfectly colorless, although it is much 
better than that cleared with sulphuric acid. 

Any one having doubts on the subject should con¬ 
vince himself by making a trial of the two methods. 
For instance, light clothes washed in benzine cleared 
with sulphuric acid, never look clear and fresh. In 
proof of this, take a dress and wash the skirt in fresh 
or distilled benzine, to which has -been added a 
small quantity of benzine soap, and then wash the 
waist in benzine cleared with sulphuric acid, to 
which likewise a little benzine soap has been added. 
The difference will at once be apparent, for while the 
skirt will be perfect, the waist will have a grayish 
yellow tinge. 

No matter whether a cleaning establishment be 

large or small, a distilling apparatus should be one 

of its appointments. The small quantity of steam 

needed for distilling can be provided by a small 

steam generator, in case other power is wanting. 

These steam generators are chiefly used where no 

more than one-half atmospheric pressure is required, 

as for steaming, distilling, dyeing, and the like. They 
• 

have a w'rought-iron fire box, require little fuel, and 
are at the same time economical and most satisfac¬ 
tory. They take up little room because they need 
not be walled in, and can be set up in any place pos¬ 
sessing a chimney. 

In designing a plant for collecting and redistilling 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 5 7 

dirty benzine there are always three prominent con¬ 
siderations : Safety from fire and economy of labor 
and benzine. Much may be done in the way of 
saving distilling by having five or six receptacles for 
taking the benzine run out of the washing machine. 
One of these receptacles receives the benzine that 
has been used in the actual cleaning, the others tak¬ 
ing the separate rinses. 

By working with a large quantity of benzine the 
first two or three of these receptacles, beginning with 
that containing the dirtiest benzine, can always be 
allowed time to settle. The bottoms of the receivers 
being funnel-shaped with a tap in the neck of the 
funnel, the sediment can be let out with a minimum 
of benzine, and all these sediments can be run into 
the still, the clear supernatant benzine going back to 
the washing machine. 

Thus the amount requiring distillation is reduced 
to a minimum, and the expensive and always more 
or less dangerous process is carried out on a much 
smaller scale than usual, thereby saving in distilling 
plant, in time, in fuel, and in risk. 

If necessary, benzine can be pumped out before 
the settlement of the mechanical dirt is concluded, 
but then the lower end suction pipe must be pro¬ 
tected by a filter or strainer of some kind, and should 
not be brought too near any sediment that mpy have 
formed. It is always best to wash and rinse with 
plenty of benzine, divided, however, in several lots. 
In this way the danger of having too much dirt in 
the receivers at a time is obviated, and if the appara- 


58 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

tus is well planned and set up and used in a work¬ 
manlike manner, there will be no fear of any serious 
loss by evaporation, or by valves and cocks getting 
choked by sediment. 

In purifying benzine by distilling, care should be 
had not to fill the apparatus above the mark indi¬ 
cated on the gauge, and in the commencement of dis¬ 
tillation to regulate the steam, so that the benzine 


Fig. 8. 



runs off cold and water-clear from the condenser. 
With too high a steam pressure oil and fat pass over 
with the benzine vapors, and therefore the pressure 
should not exceed ]/ 2 atmosphere. 

Fig. 8 shows a practical benzine distiller. It is 
composed of three principal parts: The kettle for 
the reception of the dirty benzine ; the condenser in 
which the benzine vapor is cooled off, and the di¬ 
vider through which the distilled benzine flows out. 



































DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 59 

a 

The apparatus is filled with the dirty benzine up 
to the mark indicated on the gauge, through the hole 
A, which is hermetically closed after the filling. 
Steam is then gradually introduced, and the cold 
water cock B turned on, the still being then in work¬ 
ing order. The benzine flows through valve C, while 
the water separated from the benzine has its outlet 


Fig. 9. 



through the pipe D. After the benzine ceases to 
flow the steam is shut off and the valve E opened so 
that the dirt residues may run out. By this simple 
process the apparatus actually cleans itselt, and no 
benzine is lost. 

The apparatus is constructed of hammered pol¬ 
ished copper, is very strong, and can be easily kept 
clean and in good working condition. 










60 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


The benzine still shown in Fig. 9, is constructed 
of extra-heavy sheet copper, with flanged center and 
dome. It rests on a strong wrought-iron frame at a 
convenient height for reaching all of the valves and 
cocks. The still is supplied with steam cock and 
coil, gauge glass, vacuum valve, air cock, waste 
cock, worm, valve, indicator and hand hole. 

A simple method of purifying the dark and fre¬ 
quently perfectly black benzine previous to distilla¬ 
tion is as follows: Mix the benzine with dilute soda 
solution (about 10 quarts of soda solution to 1,000 
quarts of benzine). After separation has taken place, 
draw off the lye and wash the benzine with water. 
The benzine thus treated is then subjected to dis¬ 
tillation. 

The apparatus shown in Fig. 10 is especially suit¬ 
able for the distillation of the benzine treated in the 
above manner, it having the advantage of working 
continuously. A is a cylindrical vessel of sheet-iron 
or cast-iron with arched top and bottom, the latter 
being provided with a discharge-cock, l. The top 
is furnished with the inlet-pipe h, the float d, the 
steam-pipe a, and the steam discharge-pipe b. At 
k is placed a glass gauge. In order to be enabled 
to observe the influx, the inlet-pipe h is, at i, pro¬ 
vided with an intermediate glass tube. The float d 
is connected with the jointed lever f in such a man¬ 
ner that in moving up or down it opens or closes the 
cock g. The pipe a for the admission of steam is 
bent upwards in the interior of the vessel and pro¬ 
vided above its mouth with an arched iron plate, 


DRY, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING. 6 1 

• * 

whereby the current of steam is uniformly dis¬ 
tributed over the surface of the fluid. The pipe can 
be closed by the cock y. The pipe b for discharg¬ 
ing the steam is, at c , provided with a so-called 
safety-funnel of the ordinary construction, which 
prevents any of the fluid to be distilled from being 
carried to the condenser. At jtr the pipe enters 


Fig. io. 



the worms oo. B is the reservoir for the benzine 
to be distilled. In the cover of this reservoir, 
which is also constructed of iron, is a man-hole, so 
that it may be cleansed when necessary; n is the 
funnel-pipe for filling the reservoir, and m the gauge. 
On the bottom of the reservoir B is the discharge- 
cock v, which is directly connected with the pipe h. 
























































































02 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


C is the condenser with the worm oo, the inlet-pipe 
for water 5, and the discharge-pipe t. Below the 
condenser stands a cylindrical iron vessel, D, for the 
reception of the distillate. It is hermetically closed 
by a lid in which is secured the discharge-pipe for 
gas, r. In the funnel-like expansion of the upper 
end of r lies a light hollow metal ball which serves as 
a valve. On the bottom of the vessel D is a dis¬ 
charge-cock or a bent tube, g, so fixed that it is 
laterally inclined. The worm 0 enters the vessel be¬ 
low the cover. The vessel is further provided with 
a glass gauge, p. 

The mode of working with this apparatus is as 
follows: The reservoir B being filled with the dirty 
benzine, the cock v is opened. Since the vessel A 
is still empty, the float d assumes its lowest position, 
the arrangement being such that, by the jointed lever 
/connected with the float, the cock g is then opened, 
and hence the benzine can pass from B to A. By 
the benzine gradually rising in A, the float is lifted 
and the cock g gradually closed, until, when A is 
about two-thirds full, it is entirely closed and the in¬ 
flux interrupted. Now open the cock y for the ad¬ 
mission of steam, and distillation will commence in 
a few minutes. Now since, with one volume of 
water in the form of steam 8 to 10 times the volume 
of hydrocarbons, according to the degree of their 
volatility and height of their boiling-points, are 
driven off, it is evident that the level in the vessel A 
will gradually fall and the float d sink down, whereby 
the cock g is opened and a fresh influx in proportion 


DRV, CHEMICAL, OR FRENCH CLEANING 63 

1 

to the decrease of the level in A produced. With 
continuous working so much waste-water collects in 
the vessel A that the cock g finally remains entirely 
closed in consequence of the high position of the 
float; hence, the discharge-cock / has to be occasion¬ 
ally opened. However, with careful manipulation it 
is not necessary to shut off the steam nor to inter¬ 
rupt distillation even for a few minutes. The distil¬ 
late which collects in the vessel D consists of water 
and the oily hydrocarbons; the former is drawn off 
by occasionally inclining the pipe q. In the begin¬ 
ning of distillation the steam flowing into A forces 
out the air through the worm 0 to D , and from here 
through the pipe r into the open air, for which pur¬ 
pose r may be connected with a chimney. The 
previously mentioned metal ball in r is, however, 
absolutely required, otherwise a considerable loss of 
benzine by volatilization may be incurred. 

With this apparatus from 2,oco to 2,500 quarts can 
be conveniently distilled in 12 hours, the quantity 
depending, of course, on the volatility and the boil¬ 
ing-point of the material to be purified. 


II. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

The process to be adopted for removing stains 
will largely depend on the material of which the 
textile fabric is made, and also whether it is dyed or 
not dyed, and on the character of the stains them¬ 
selves. The latter may be broadly divided into two 
classes, viz.: Stains of a fatty and non-fatty nature. 
Besides there have to be taken into consideration 
stains which destroy the color, and those which have 
no effect upon it. In the former case the stain itself 
may be readily removed, but sometimes it will be 
impossible to restore the impaired color. The first 
thing is to find out what has caused the stain. If no 
conclusion can be reached on this point, the clean¬ 
ing agents it is proposed to try must be tested as to 
their action on the dye on some part of the garment 
which is invisible when it is worn, or at anv rate 
where change in the dye would be likely to escape 
observation. This must be done before the stains in 
a conspicuous place are meddled with. 

It must be remembered that every failure to re¬ 
move a stain increases the difficulty of dealing 
with it, and one of the chief troubles of the profes¬ 
sional cleaner is with stains which the owners of the 
garments have themselves tried in vain to get rid of. 

( 64 ) 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 65 

• * 

The tools required for the removal of stains con¬ 
sist of tampions, some pieces of buckskin, large and 
small brushes, and a marble or glass slab. A glass 
slab is to be preferred to a wooden board, because it 
does not stain, is readily cleaned, and is not attacked 
by chemicals. Small hard-wood boards rounded off 
on both sides, which if necessary may be pushed 
into sleeves, etc., are also very useful. 

The nature of the agents employed must be suffi¬ 
ciently understood to make a success of the opera¬ 
tion. Thus, for instance, a rust-stain in linen or 
another fabric cannot be removed with ammonia, or 
a stain in cloth due to copal varnish, with dilute 
alcohol. Rust consists of hydrated ferric oxide 
which is insoluble in ammonia, and copal varnish 
does not dissolve in dilute alcohol. Hence, for the 
removal of rust an agent has to be employed which 
enters with the hydrated ferric oxide into a soluble 
combination that can be removed by washing with 
water. For cleaning cloth stained with copal varnish, 
an agent capable of dissolving copal has to be used, 
and since the latter is not soluble in dilute alcohol, 
and even not in cold rectified 95 to 96 per cent, 
alcohol, this agent is useless for removing such 
stains. It has to be borne in mind that fat copal 
varnishes are prepared by boiling the melted copal 
with linseed oil or by treating the copal with a mix¬ 
ture of turpentine and linseed oil; on the other hand, 
copal lacquers are obtained by dissolving melted 
copal in a mixture of alcohol and ether or chloro¬ 
form, benzol, etc. By one of these solvents of copal, 

5 


66 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


or a mixture of them, the copal stains may be re¬ 
moved. 

The removal of stains from undyed goods is ac¬ 
complished with comparative ease, the use of a 
suitable solvent sufficing in most cases. However, 
in the treatment of dyed goods it has to be taken 
into consideration whether the dye is soluble or in¬ 
soluble in the solvent or other agent to be used for 
the removal of the stain. In the first case, i. e., if 
the dye is soluble in the cleansing agent, special 
precautions have to be observed in removing the 
stain. 

In treating woolen fabrics , i. e., various kinds of 
cloth and cloth-like tissues, furniture damask (also 
that mixed with silk and cotton), velvet-like fabrics 
(plush), carpets (velvet, tapestry, etc.), potash or 
soda lye, concentrated ammonia and hot solutions of 
alkaline carbonates cannot be employed for the 
removal of dirt and grease stains. 

The wool fiber is attacked even by dilute soda and 
potash lyes, and also by solutions of alkaline carbon¬ 
ates (soda and potash) if used at a temperature of 
above 122° F. By cold moderately strong ammonia 
and cold dilute solution of soda or potash, wool is 
scarcely attacked directly, but it is attacked by con¬ 
centrated ammonia even if exposed to its action for 
only about three minutes. Even dilute ammonia 
may in a short time exert an injurious effect upon 
the wool fiber. However , carbonate of ammonia has 
scarcely any effect on sheep's wool . 

On the other hand, wool is very resistant to dilute 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 67 

"A 

acids, and may even for some time be boiled in 
water compounded with acid (acidulated water) 
without suffering a change. 

If caustic alkalies have to be employed in cleaning 
fabrics from dirt and grease stains, great care should 
be exercised, and they should be used only at a very 
low temperature. Solutions of alkaline carbonates 
act less energetically upon wool, but should not be 
used in a too concentrated state, and particularly 
not too hot, as otherwise the strength of the woolen 
fabrics is impaired, and besides they become rough 
and hard, as well as lose their luster. 

The luster of silk fabrics (rep, satin, damask, 
brocade, velvet, etc.) is impaired by the action of 
dilute potash or soda lye; even lyes of moderate 
concentration dissolve silk in the heat. Silk is also 
considerably attacked by boiling for a longer time 
with soap solution. Warm dilute acids exert an 
injurious effect upon silk. 

No acid should come in contact with black silk, 
and water scarcely with colored silks, because the 
better qualities of black silk are even at the present 
time mostly dyed with logwood, and colored silks 
yield coloring matter to water. Rubbing or scratch¬ 
ing of any kind produces dull spots, and silk fabrics 
should therefore be cleaned only with a sponge or 
not too hard a brush. 

As regards cotton goods (calico, cambric, percale 
jaconet, rep, dimity, twill, pique, cotton velvet, etc.), 
it may be mentioned that the cotton fiber is scarcely 
attacked by dilute acids, for instance, hydrochloric 


68 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

acid ; acetic acid has no effect upon cotton what¬ 
soever. 

Cotton will stand the action of cold dilute potash 
or soda lye. Cold concentrated solutions (20° to 
30° Be.) of caustic potash or caustic soda, however, 
produce a chemical change, the cotton shriveling up. 

By linc7i is generally understood fabrics consisting 
either of pure linen or half linen (linen-yarn warp 
and tow-yarn woof); also half-linen and half-cotton 
goods in which the warp is formed of linen and the 
woof of cotton. Since the cleaned flax fiber consists 
chiefly of cellulose, yet on account of its large con¬ 
tent of lignine cannot be classed with the cotton fiber, 
linen goods will, generally speaking, stand the same 
treatment as cotton fabrics. From the finer qualities 
of jute tissues are made which serve for the manu¬ 
facture of curtains, carpets, and furniture coverings, 
they being well adapted for this purpose by reason 
of their luster. The jute fiber consists of cellulose 
with bastine, the so called corchorobastose, which is 
readily decomposed by acids and in general very 
sensitive towards chemicals. This deserves particu¬ 
lar attention in chemically cleaning such goods. 

White goods are most readily cleaned with soap 
and water. In difficult cases, chlorine and similar 
agents are employed. Soap is also an excellent 
agent for removing stains from colored fabrics, pro¬ 
vided the dye is fast. For shaped or trimmed arti¬ 
cles it is, however, best not to use it, or at least very 
sparingly. 

Many stains can be removed with water. The 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 6 9 

principal requisite is 'to use only distilled or soft 
water, otherwise a white ring is formed around the 
stain which has been treated, and this ring does not 
disappear. Spread the article upon the glass-plate, 
moisten a brush with soft water and brush the stain 
until it is no longer visible ; then dry with a piece of 
buckskin, as otherwise the water will form rings, es¬ 
pecially with light-colored articles. The treatment 
is rendered more efficient by adding to the water a 
little salt for white goods, and for colored ones, a 
little spirit. For silks as much spirit is added as can 
be done without affecting the dyes. Goods also dry 
much faster when spirit has been added to the water. 

From the explanations given above, general con¬ 
clusions may be drawn as to the methods to be 
adopted for the removal of stains. To recapitulate 
what has been said, the operator should first of all 
be thoroughly conversant with the properties of the 
cleaning agents, whether in liquid, solid or pasty 
form, and particularly as regards their solvent power 
and chemical action. Due consideration must also 
be given to the effect which the cleaning agents may 
under certain conditions exert upon dyed goods, 
and, finally, before commencing the operation, it has 
to be considered whether the fabrics to be cleaned 
may be injured by the agent selected. 

The object of dry-cleaning garments and other 
articles is to remove as much as possible all stains, 
whether of a chemical or mechanical nature. How¬ 
ever, notwithstanding this washing with benzine, the 
articles, after drying, may still contain certain stains, 


7 O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

partly of vegetable origin, for instance, from fruit 
and vegetable juices, partly of animal origin, such 
as blood, fat, secretions, etc., and finally, also stains 
formed in consequence of a chemical decomposition. 
Such stains have to be removed from the garments 
and other articles, and sometimes this may be ef¬ 
fected without previous chemical washing. 

The principal spotting agents, including those 
introduced in recent times, are given below. The 
chemicals should be absolutely chemically pure, 
otherwise it may happen that in removing one 
stain a new one may be produced. 

Ether. Pure ether is a colorless, very limpid 
fluid, of a peculiar, penetrating odor, and at first a 
very pungent taste; the after-taste is cooling, and 
should not be bitter. Ether is extraordinarily vola¬ 
tile, boils at from 93 0 to 95 0 F., and burns with a 
bright yellow flame, yielding water and carbonic 
acid. Its vapor mixed wtth a large quantity of air, 
if ignited, explodes with great violence. In conse¬ 
quence of this property and the great density of its 
vapor, extreme care should be exercised in handling 
ether, or manipulating with it in the vicinity of a 
flame. The latter should never be done if it can 
possibly be avoided, nor should the ether be allowed 
to stand in a warm room. Ether is miscible in all 
proportions with spirit of wine, but not with water, 
which dissolves one-tenth its volume. The presence 
of water and alcohol is detected by mixing the ether 
with an equal bulk of carbon disulphide, which 
should result in a perfectly clear liquid ; a piece of 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 71 

potassium kept in the ether for 24 hours becomes 
coated with a yellowish film, and imparts a yellow¬ 
ish color to the liquid if alcohol be present. Ani¬ 
line-violet is insoluble in absolute ether, but in the 
presence of 1 per cent, of alcohol colors the liquid 
distinctly. 

Ether is an excellent solvent for fats and resins. 

Chloroform. This is less dangerous than ether. 
It is a limpid, colorless, diffusive liquid, not inflam¬ 
mable, of an agreeable ethereal odor, a hot sac¬ 
charine taste, and a neutral reaction. In a perfectly 
pure state it is difficult to keep, and hence some 
alcohol is added, so that its specific gravity varies 
between 1.488 and 1.492, and its boiling-point is 
increased to 149 0 F. When brought upon the skin 
chloroform evaporates rapidly, with the production 
of a cold sensation. 

When chloroform is shaken in a perfectly clean 
glass-stoppered vial with an equal bulk of sulphuric 
acid, no color should be imparted to either liquid 
after remaining in contact for 24 hours. Should a 
coloration appear, the chloroform is not pure. If 5 
centimeters of purified chloroform be thoroughly 
agitated with 10 cubic centimeters of distilled water, 
the latter, when separated, should not affect blue 
litmus-paper (absence of acids), nor test-solution of 
nitrate of silver (chloride), nor test-solution of iodide 
of potassium (free chlorine). 

Alcohol is a colorless, very mobile fluid and pos¬ 
sesses a characteristic odor and taste. When ex¬ 
posed to the air in a thin layer, it evaporates rapidly 


72 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

without leaving behind a residue. It is very inflam¬ 
mable and burns with a non-luminous, blue flame. 
It is miscible with water, ether and chloroform and 
gives clear mixtures with the majority of volatile 
oils. Pure alcohol dissolves either entirely, or par¬ 
tially, fat oils, fats and many resins. It is also a 
solvent for numerous organic and inorganic com¬ 
pounds (salts, alkaloids, etc.) 

To increase the efficacy of alcohol as a spotting 
agent, benzine soap is dissolved in 98 per cent, alco¬ 
hol. The alcohol may also be mixed with ether, 
chloroform, etc., and with the soap solution, this 
mixture being used for spotting. It may here be 
mentioned that generally speaking a mixture of two, 
or even several, solvents is more effective than when 
one solvent is used by itself. This applies particu¬ 
larly to solvents acting in the same manner. 

Acetone is obtained among the products of distil¬ 
lation of wood. It is a colorless fragrant liquid of 
specific gravity 0.80, and boils at 122 0 F. It is 
inflammable, burning with a luminous flame. It 
mixes with water, alcohol and ether. It is a good 
solvent for certain resins. 

Acetic ether boils at 170.6° F., and smells of cider. 
Its specific gravity is 0.91. It mixes readily with 
alcohol and ether, and is useful as a solvent. 

Ammonia. This is one of the most important 
agents for the removal of stains. It forms a color¬ 
less fluid, with a strong, penetrating odor and a 
pungent, acrid taste. When highly concentrated it 
reddens the skin and produces blisters. It imparts 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 


73 


a brown color to tumeric-paper, a blue color to red 
litmus-paper, and a green color to the juice of violet 
flowers. ( 

When shaken with an equal quantity of lime water, 
it should yield a clear, or at the utmost slightly turbid, 
fluid, otherwise it has been in contact with air and 
absorbed carbonic acid from the latter. Empyreu- 
matic products are recognized by the dark colora¬ 
tion, as well as by the odor, which appears on heating 
the fluid previously slightly acidulated with sulphuric 
acid. 

In commerce ammonia is generally sold according 
to degrees of Baume. For removing stains the pro¬ 
duct of 18 0 to 20° Be. suffices. 

Ammonia suitable for cleaning purposes should 
evaporate at the temperature of boiling water with¬ 
out leaving any residue. When using it for the re¬ 
moval of stains it should first be ascertained whether 
any of the colors suffer a change by it. 

Benzine has been previously described. Stains of 
resins and grease are rubbed with benzine soap solu¬ 
tion, and then well rinsed in benzine. The cleaning 
efficacy may also be increased by the use of a 
mixture of benzine and benzol in place of benzine 
by itself, these two spotting agents acting in a simi¬ 
lar manner. 

To increase the efficacy of benzine for the removal 
of stains, mixtures of benzine with rectified turpen¬ 
tine, alcohol, etc., are prepared. Such mixtures 
should, however, only be used when perfectly clear, 
they being unfit for the purpose when turbid. In 


74 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

clear mixtures benzine soap dissolves completely, and 
with such benzine soap solutions grease stains of all 
kinds, resin and asphalt stains, etc., can be removed. 

Stains of blood, coffee, chocolate, gravy, glue, 
and axle grease, are removed by treatment with 
warm benzine soap solution and subsequent rinsing 
in benzine. 

Besides the above-mentioned mixtures, carbon 
tetrachloride and chloroform are also used for the 
removal of stains of tar and oil paint. Thus, for in¬ 
stance, tar stains in white goods are easily and com¬ 
pletely removed by a mixture of chloroform and 
tetrachloride. The same effect is also produced by 
first brushing the stains with carbon tetrachloride, 
and then treating them with benzine. 

Carbon tetrachloride has been prevously de¬ 
scribed. It is a solvent for oils, fats, wax, paraffin, 
stearin, varnish, lacquer, shellac, asphalt, pitch, 
resins, balsams, tar, gutta-percha, rubber, soda and 
potash soaps. It is non-explosive, and for use in 
spotting it possesses the important property of not 
attacking the dyes of the tissues. 

In addition to stains originating from the above- 
mentioned substances, carbon tetrachloride is an 
excellent spotting agent for the removal of stains 
caused by butter, milk, gravy, oil paint (even old 
oil paint stains). It is further suitable for the re¬ 
moval of tar, train oil, and axle grease stains. It is 
equal to chloroform as a solvent for oil paint, though 
it is better to use for this purpose a mixture of it 
and chloroform. With such a mixture the last 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 75 

traces of oil paint as well as of tar, can be removed 
even from white goods. In spotting with carbon 
tetrachloride no rings are formed, as is the case with 
other spotting agents, and it is, therefore, particu¬ 
larly suitable for spotting light-colored goods. A 
mixture especially suitable for dissolving and easily 
removing stains of red varnish, etc., is sometimes 
used. It consists of: Carbon tetrachloride and 
acetic ether, each 1 part, and rectified fusel oil, 2 
parts. 

For spotting, a clean rag, a tuft of wadding, or a 
small sponge is moistened with carbon tetrachloride 
and the stain gently rubbed and eventually dabbed 
until it has disappeared. The rag or tuft of wad¬ 
ding should be frequently renewed and sufficiently 
moistened with carbon tetrachloride. 

If there is danger that even with the most careful 
rubbing the article might be injured, fold a sheet of 
white blotting paper together about four times, soak 
it with carbon tetrachloride, place the stained article 
upon it, and cover the stain with the same thick¬ 
nesses of blotting paper. Then press firmly, best 
with a cold smoothing iron, the upper layer of paper 
upon the lower, whereby the stain between the two 
layers of paper is dissolved and its substance ab¬ 
sorbed by the solvent. Repeat the operation until 
the stain has entirely disappeared. To moisten the 
stain with carbon tetrachloride and then rubbing dry 
with a rag is a wrong way of spotting, since the sub¬ 
stance already dissolved is thereby spread out to a 
greater extent and a larger stained place with a 
plainly perceptible edge is formed. 


76 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Acetic acid . This increases the efficacy of alco¬ 
hol, benzine and ether in many cases. 

Acetic acid occurs in commerce in various degrees 
of purity and strength. For our purposes chem¬ 
ically pure acid can only be taken into consideration, 
and it should especially be free from empyreumatic 
substances. The degree of acidity is of minor con¬ 
sideration, since too strong an acid can be readily 
reduced by the addition of water. 

Acetic acid is a colorless fluid of a peculiar pun¬ 
gent taste, and when applied to the human skin 
causes redness and swelling, followed by paleness of 
the part. Prolonged application is followed by vesi¬ 
cation and desquamation of the cuticle. At the 
ordinary temperature acetic acid evaporates per¬ 
ceptibly; it boils at 244.4 0 F. Acetic acid neutral¬ 
ized with pure carbonate of soda and diluted with 
water should not be changed by potassium perman¬ 
ganate solution. 

Acetic acid is used, diluted with water, for remov¬ 
ing stains caused by alkalies and for livening up 
colors injured by street dust, especially on ladies’ 
skirts. The goods are afterwards rinsed with clean 
water. Care must always be exercised in using 
acetic acid on dyed goods. 

Fusel oil. This is an excellent solvent for var¬ 
nishes, oil-colors and resins. The smell of it is got 
rid of by airing the cleaned articles. 

Glycerin is a syrupy liquid having the specific 
gravity 1.28 at 59° F. It is transparent, colorless, 
inodorous, very sweet, and somewhat warm to the 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 77 

« ' 

taste, oily to the touch, without action upon litmus, 
and soluble in all proportions in water and alcohol; 
also in spirit of ether, but not in ether, chloroform, 
benzol, fixed oils, or volatile oils. 

Glycerin is a solvent for alkalies, alkaloids, dye¬ 
stuffs, and other bodies. It is also serves for finishing 
fine fabrics, etc. 

Borax. Borax forms large, colorless, monoclinic 
prisms, which are transparent, inodorous, have a 
mild, sweetish, cooling, and afterwards alkaline, taste, 
and in dry air effloresce superficially and become 
opaque. It is soluble in 12 to 15 parts of cold, and 
in 2 parts of boiling water, and in 4 to 5 parts of 
glycerin, but insoluble in alcohol. The aqueous so¬ 
lution has a slightly alkaline taste, colors red litmus- 
paper blue, and the juice of violet flowers green. 

Borax is very frequently adulterated with Glauber’s 
salt (sodium sulphate), rock-salt (sodium chloride), 
and potassium chloride. If, in a dilute and heated 
solution strongly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, 
a heavy precipitate is formed by barium chloride 
solution, Glauber’s salt may be supposed to be pres¬ 
ent. An admixture of rock-salt is recognized by 
the white flakes which are formed in an aqueous 
solution acidulated with nitric acid, by the addition 
of nitrate of silver. Potassium chloride is recognized 
in the solution by the formation of a white crystal¬ 
line precipitate on adding a large quantity of tartaric 
acid. The presence of carbonate of soda is shown 
by the effervescence of the solution on adding hy¬ 
drochloric acid. 


78 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Borax is used for fixing mineral dye-stuff's, as an 
addition to starch, and as a substitute for alkalies 
(potash, soda). 

Hyposulphite of sodium occurs in commerce in 
large, transparent, colorless, monoclinic prisms or 
plates, which have the specific gravity 1.74, are 
neutral or faintly alkaline, are inodorous, and have 
a cooling, bitter, slightly alkaline, and sulphurous 
taste. It is permanent in the air, soluble at a med¬ 
ium temperature in less than an equal quantity of 
water, but insoluble in spirits of wine. By adding 
an acid to the aqueous solution gaseous sulphurous 
acid escapes, while sulphur separates in white flakes. 

It is used as a bleaching agent, and also as a de- 
chlorizing agent for fabrics bleached with chlorine. 

Stannous chloride , or tin salt , occurs in commerce 
in a solid form as well as in solution. In the solid 
form it forms white, columnar crystals which are 
readily soluble in water, and have an acrid, metallic 
taste. It being poisonous when taken internally, 
care should be used in handling it. The solution of 
tin-salt in water always shows a more or less milky 
turbidity. 

Chloride of lime is a white or whitish powder or in 
friable lumps, dry or but slightly damp, with a feeble 
odor of chlorine, and a disagreeable bitter and saline 
taste. Under certain circumstances it may undergo 
decomposition on keeping, either with the evolution 
of oxygen, or by conversion into a mixture of chlor¬ 
ide and chlorate of calcium. On exposure to the 
air it absorbs and combines with carbonic acid and 


79 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

becomes moist. It has an alkaline reaction, but 
finally bleaches test-paper. When rubbed with 
water it is almost entirely dissolved, the lime remain¬ 
ing behind. This forms the chloride of lime solu¬ 
tion which serves as a basis for the bleaching and 
decolorizing process, and for the preparation of the 
various bleaching fluids. 

Thus the well-known can de Javelle is obtained by 
mixing a filtered solution of i part of chloride of 
lime in 12 parts water with a solution of potassium 
carbonate (potash) (1 part potash in 4 parts water). 
The mixture is allowed to settle and is filtered. 

Chloride of lime solution in the same manner de¬ 
composed by alum or aluminium sulphate gives 
Wilson's bleaching fluid; and by sulphate of mag¬ 
nesium, Ramsey s or Grouvelle's bleaching fluid. 
These bleaching-fluids are colorless, or of a faintly 
yellowish color. They are extensively used for 
bleaching textile fibers, fabrics, and wash-clothes, 
and serve also for removing fruit and red-wine stains 
from the latter. 

A too vigorous action of the chlorine upon the 
textile fiber is counteracted by subsequent immer¬ 
sion of the fabric in solution of sodium hyposulphite 
or ammonia. 

Chlorine-water. This is less frequently used than 
bleaching-fluid. It forms a clear, greenish-yellow 
liquid, possessing the suffocating odor and acrid, irri¬ 
tating taste of chlorine. It evaporates without leav¬ 
ing any residue, but separates crystals of chlorine 
hydrate when cooled to the freezing-point of water. 


80 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Tartaric acid crystallizes in colorless, oblique, 
rhombic prisms or tables, which are inodorous and 
have a strongly acid and disagreeable taste. They 
have the specific gravity 1.764, dissolve at 62.6° F. 
in 0.6 part of water, 2 parts of 85* per cent, alcohol, 
3.6 parts of absolute alcohol, 23 parts of ether, and 
250 parts of absolute ether; they are more soluble 
in the same liquids at the boiling temperature, and 
are likewise soluble in methyl alcohol and in glycerin, 
but insoluble in chloroform and benzine. It is a 
complete substitute for the more expensive— 

Citric acid , with which it is frequently mixed, and 
in many cases even sold as such. Hence, whenever 
citric acid is prescribed tartaric acid may be substi¬ 
tuted for it. 

Oxalic acid forms flat, oblique, rhombic prisms, 
which are colorless, transparent, not deliquescent, 
inodorous, of a strongly acid taste and reaction, and 
soluble in about 8 parts of water at the ordinary tem¬ 
perature, and in nearly all proportions of boiling 
water. They dissolve in 2^ parts of cold and 1.8 
parts of boiling, strong alcohol, and are but slightly 
soluble in ether. Oxalic acid is very poisonous. It 
is rather cheap, and as in some cases it serves as a 
complete substitute for tartaric and citric acids, it is 
very frequently used. 

Acid oxalate , or binoxalate , of potassium , popu¬ 
larly called salt of sorrel, is a combination of oxalic 
acid with potassium carbonate. It occurs in com¬ 
merce in large colorless crystals which dissolve with 
difficulty in water. Oxalic acid as well as acid oxa¬ 
late of potassium is much used for removing stains. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 81 

• •y 

Hydrochloric acid. This well-known acid should 
be entirely free from iron, and, hence, should not 
be colored red by sulphocyanide of potassium. 

Ox-gall should never be used as furnished by 
abbatoirs. In that state it forms a green, or brown- 
ish-green, viscid, transparent, or more frequently 
translucent fluid of a peculiar, disagreeable odor. It 
is best first to cleanse it, which is done by mixing it 
in a bottle with an equal part by weight of 90 per 
cent, alcohol. The mixture is occasionally agitated, 
then set aside, filtered, and finally evaporated to a 
syrupy consistency, or to complete dryness. In this 
state ox-gall forms a clear solution in water and in 
90 per cent, alcohol. 

In this connection may be mentioned a few mix¬ 
tures which have at a comparatively recent time 
been introduced for the removal of stains. Thus, 
for the removal of grease stains and stains of a resin¬ 
ous and viscid nature for which ether by itself is fre¬ 
quently used, mixtures of ether with benzine or ben¬ 
zol, amyl acetate, methyl alcohol and ammonia are 
found in commerce under the name of benzolinar. 

A few formulas for such mixtures may here be 
given: 

1. Benzol 4 parts, ether 1 part, amyl acetate y 2 
part. 

2. Benzine 3 parts, chloroform 0.10 part, ether 
0.02 part, oil of bergamot 30 drops. 

3. Carbon tetrachloride 2 parts, benzine 1 part. 

Mixtures of, alcohol 3 parts, ether 3 parts, and am¬ 
monia, I part, or , equal parts of ether, methyl alco- 

6 


82 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


hol and ammonia have been known for some time. 
To be able to use the latter mixture for the removal 
of stains of the most different origin, it is advisable 
to prepare the following fluid: Dissolve soft soap, 
Yz oz., calcined soda and borax, each Y oz * 1 
quart of warm distilled water, and, after cooling, mix 
the solution with the above-mentioned mixture of 
equal parts of ether, ammonia, and methyl alcohol. 

Various spotting and washing agents. Stains 
which have not been dissolved by the benzine in 
dry cleaning are in most cases readily removed by 
carefully applying the following scouring water: 

Dissolve in 5 quarts of distilled water 2 y 2 ozs. of 
common salt and add to the solution, 8 ozs. 90 per 
cent, alcohol and 1 Y ozs. ether. Shake the mixture 
thoroughly. It is used as follows: Moisten a clean 
rag or piece of soft leather with the mixture and try 
to remove the stain by rubbing very carefully. Silk 
or goods with delicate colors has to be manipulated 
with special care, as by rubbing too vigorously the 
colors are injured and a whitish shine is produced 
which can only be removed by re-dying. This rule 
not only applies to the above-mentioned scouring 
water, but to the removal of stains in general. The 
lighter and the more skilled the hand of the operator 
is, the better for the article to be cleaned. 

An excellent soap for the removal of wine and 
vinegar stains is prepared by mixing 16 parts of 
ordinary soap with 2 parts turpentine and 1 part 
ammonia. 

A good soap for the removal of all kinds of stains 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 83 

* * 

is prepared as follows: Reduce 2 lbs. castile soap 
and T lb. cocoa-nut soap to thin shavings, mix with 
4 ozs - alum, 1 oz. alcohol, 8 ozs. potash solution, 
and 4ozs. ox-gall, and heat. The next day add 
to the mass 2 quarts of alcohol, 4 fresh eggs, and 2 
ozs. of spirits of camphor, and stir until intimate 
combination is effected. 

A good soap for the removal of stains from silk is 
obtained as follows : Melt 2 parts of white grain soap 
and add 1 part Venice turpentine and 1 part ox-gall. 
Stir constantly while mixing the ingredients. 

Another formula is as follows: Saponify 11 lbs. of 
cocoa-nut oil and 6 lbs. of tallow with 8 lbs. of soda 
lye of 40° Be. To the soap thus obtained add 12 
ozs. turpentine, 13 ozs. ox-gall, and about I ozs. 
ultramarine green. 

Ox-gall is subject to rapid putrefaction and may 
be preserved as follows : Open the gall bladder and 
express the fluid. Mix 100 parts of the fluid with 
7 parts of acetic ether; the latter must of course be 
carefully removed at the time the gall is to be used. 

Another soap for silk tissues has the following 
composition: Reduce 9 lbs. of grain soap to very 
fine shavings and mix with 20 lbs. of ox-gall. 
Evaporate the mixture until a sample solidifies upon 
a glass plate. Then add to the mass while it is still 
quite hot, a mixture of 10^ ozs. sugar, 10^ ozs. 
honey, S }4 ozs. Venice turpentine, and 22 l / 2 ozs. 
ammonia. 

For the removal of stains from calico, the follow¬ 
ing soaps may be used to advantage: Mix 9 lbs. of 


84 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

t 

white soap with 4 x / 2 lbs. of ox-gall and 14^ ozs. of 
Venice turpentine. Ammonia may be substituted 
for ox-gall. Reduce 4^ lbs. of white grain soap to 
shavings and heat in an iron kettle in a water-bath 
together with 2]/ 2 lbs. ammonia. When solution is 
complete add, in order to obtain an actually solid 
soap, 7 ozs. of alcohol. 

A mixture suitable for cleaning fabrics dyed with 
sensitive dyes, which are covered with dirt of vary¬ 
ing origin, is as follows: Soap bark extract, 10 parts, 
borax, 10 parts, ox-gall, 30 parts, and castile soap, 30 
parts. In many cases a cheaper and more effective 
mixture may serve the same purpose. It consists 
of: 30 parts strong solution of ammonia, 40 parts 
olein, and 300 parts water. 

Liquid spotting soap is prepared by dissolving, 
shaking frequently, shavings of a good quality of 
grain soap in ammonia and diluting the solution 
with ammonia to the consistency of syrup. The 
stained places are covered with the mixture and 
washed in lukewarm water. 

The following composition can also be used to ad¬ 
vantage in spotting: Soft soap, 1 oz., calcined soda, 
y 2 oz., borax, ]/ 2 oz., ammonia, of specific gravity 
0.910, ether and methyl alcohol, each 60 cubic cen¬ 
timeters, and water, 1820 cubic centimeters. 

Ammonia soap is very useful for the removal of 
grease stains. It is prepared as follows: Mix in the 
order given, shaking frequently, 100 cubic centime¬ 
ters oleic acid, 50 cubic centimeters ether, 50 cubic 
centimeters chloroform, 500 cubic centimeters ben- 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 85 

zine and 100 cubic centimeters spirit of ammonia. If 
a white emulsion is preferred, substitute for the spirit 
of ammonia double the quantity of water. 

For the removal from wash-clothes of brown and 
black stains due to hair-dye, medicines, marking 
ink, etc., a solution of the very poisonous potassium 
cyanide in lukewarm distilled water is used. Great 
care has to be exercised in handling it. 

For the removal of stains of lunar caustic or ni¬ 
trate of silver, a mixture of chloride of ammonium 
and corrosive sublimate, each % oz. in 4 ozs. of 
water. A mixture of 10^ ozs. of .Glauber’s salt, 5 
ozs. of chloride of lime and 10 ozs. of water can also 
be recommended. 

Spotting fluids. The following compositions may 
be mentioned: 

a. Dissolve, shaking frequently, 30 parts castile 
soap in a mixture of 30 parts glycerin, 7 parts 
strong solution of ammonia, 30 parts ether, and 300 
parts water. 

For use place a cloth under the place to be 
cleaned, then spread the fluid by means of a sponge 
over the stain, and treat the latter with the fluid by 
careful rubbing for a few seconds. Finally wash 
with water. 

b. Tincture of soap (spiritas saponatus') 100 parts, 
10 per cent, ammonia, 50 parts, acetic ether, 15 
parts. 

This mixture is suitable for oil and grease stains. 
Soak the stains with the fluid and remove them by 
means of a woolen rag. 


86 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


c. Benzine, 200 parts, ether, 40 parts, acetic ether, 

30 parts, turpentine, 60 parts. 

d. Dissolve 10 parts of saponine in 500 parts dis¬ 
tilled water, and mix the solution with 20 parts of 
ammonia of 0.960 specific gravity. 

This fluid is especially suitable for the removal of 
grease, mildew, and dust stains. 

e. Carbon tetrachloride, 650 parts, aceti ether, 
100 parts, denatured alcohol, 100 parts, alkali oleate 
soluble in benzine, 8 parts, benzine, 142 parts. 

This spotting fluid injures neither the fabric nor 
the color, acts with great ease and rapidity, evolves 
no odor, disappears from the fabric without leaving 
a trace, and is neither poisonous nor inflammable. 
By its use most all kinds of stains, for instance, such 
as are caused by gravies, fats, axle-grease, petroleum, 
varnish, tar, wax, oil-paint, etc., can be removed. 
The stains (on wool, silk, cotton, lace, carpets, felt, 
furs, etc.) are moistened with the spotting fluid, 
lightly brushed, and finally rubbed dry with a clean 
cotton cloth. 

/. Strong ammonia 31 parts, tincture of potash 
soap 93 parts, soda 7.8 parts, borax 7.8 parts, ether 

31 parts, alcohol 31 parts, and enough water to make 
the whole up to 950 parts. 

Dissolve the salts in a portion of the water, then 
add the other constituents, and finally the ether and 
alcohol. This preparation is said to remove stains 
from all kinds of woolens, imparts gloss to black 
cloth, and also to be suitable for cleaning carpets. 

Spotting fluids for leather and tissues, a. Ether 
1 part, turpentine 4 parts. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 87 

b. Camphor 8 parts, alcohol 1 part, ether 1 part. 

c. For coarse tissues. Mix 1 part of ether with 9. 
parts of turpentine. 

Spotting fluid for all kinds of stains, the derivation 
of which cannot be ascertained. Dissolve 8 parts of 
castile soap in 30 parts alcohol, and add 1 part tur¬ 
pentine and the yolks of 4 eggs. 

Or: Heat to the boiling point 20 parts ox-gall, 
40 parts borax, 500 parts alcohol, and 200 parts 
ammonia. Then add 30 parts glycerin and the 
yolks of 2 eggs. 

English spotting fluid for the removal of stains of 
resin, acid, wax, tar and grease, consists of 100 parts 
by weight of 95 per cent, alcohol, 35 of ammonia of 
specific gravity 0.875, an d J 5 of benzine. Bring the 
weighed benzine into a glass vessel, add the alcohol, 
shake thoroughly, and finally add the ammonia. 

Schwemmer s spotting fluid. This is a patented 
article. The solution of ammonia in alcohol and 
ether frequently used for the removal of stains is so 
mixed with turpentine that on shaking, the fluids 
form an emulsion which remains constant during the 
operation of spotting. A suitable mixture consists 
of 4 ozs. turpentine, 4 ozs. ammonia, 2 ozs. alcohol, 
2 ozs. ether, and 2 ozs. acetic ether. 

Spotting paste. An excellent article is prepared 
as follows: First mix 2 parts borax with 3 parts ox¬ 
gall, then mix with it carefully 20 parts of tallow 
soap in the form of a fine powder, and finally I part 
oleic acid. 

Spotting pencils, a. Soap powder 70 parts, pul- 


88 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


verized borax io, carbonate of magnesia 25, fresh 
ox-gall 20, soft soap 10. Dissolve the borax in the 
ox-gall, assisting solution by rubbing, then mix with 
the solution, in very small portions at a time, the 
carbonate of magnesia, gradually add the soap pow¬ 
der and sufficient soft soap to obtain a mass of a 
doughy consistency. Scatter magnesia powder upon 
a smooth board, roll the mass out into long sticks 
and cut up the latter into suitable size. 

b. Mix 30 parts of quillaia extract and 30 parts of 
borax and make the mixture into a stiff mass with 
120 parts of fresh ox-gall and about 450 parts of 
soap powder. Form the mass into sticks. 

Tetrapol is an oily liquid of a yellowish color, a 
peculiar odor resembling that of radish, and is mis¬ 
cible in every proportion in water. It is a patented 
product, and has proved to be an excellent agent for 
cleaning and degreasing woolen yarn or other mate¬ 
rials contaminated by grease. It has an alkaline re¬ 
action, and its mixture with water resembles soap-lye. 
Tetrapol may be used wherever water is employed in 
chemical cleaning. It is non-inflammable and is 
generally used cold, or at the utmost at a tempera¬ 
ture of up to 122 0 F.; a higher temperature than 
this should be avoided. 

According to an analysis by Dr. Bein of Berlin, 
tetrapol consists of: 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 89 


Mark 

A. F. 

Per cent. Per cent. 


Total content of fatty acid . 18.5 25.2 

Carbon tetrachloride. 12.4 15.7 

Free alkali .. not traceable 

Chlorine and kindred substances. “ « 

Total content of soap . 31.0 39.0 


Tetrapol is used either in aqueous solution of 
varying concentration—1 part tetrapol and 2 to 8 
parts distilled, or at least soft, water—or by itself as 
it is found in commerce. For instance, for the re¬ 
moval of oil-pamt stains cover them with a concen¬ 
trated tetrapol solution —]/ 2 to 1 oz. tetrapol in 1 
quart distilled water—let the solution act for one 
hour without rubbing, then rub the stained places 
with the fingers, remove the solution from the article 
by brushing, and finally brush with soft water. 
Axle grease stains may in the same- manner be re¬ 
moved. 

Oil and grease stains, particularly those caused by 
mineral and lubricating oils, are removed by rubbing 
with tetrapol; then follow with lukewarm water, and 
after a good lather has been produced, rinse with 
warm water until complete removal of the tetrapol 
which will carry away with it the oil, dirt, etc., com¬ 
posing the stain. Blood stains are removed in the 
same manner. For the same purpose tetrapol solu¬ 
tion— 1 part tetrapol with 4 parts water—may be 
used. Should the stains not disappear after this 
treatment, repeat the process. 







go DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


In wet washing tetrapol serves as a substitute for 
soap. It has the advantage of not forming a lime 
soap and is not decomposed by acids as ordinary 
soaps are. It imparts no odor to the articles treated 
with it. 

Blanchissine is a detergent manufactured by Boet- 
tiger, Lille, France. 

Blanchissine No. i is composed as follows : Caustic 
soda 8 parts, alcohol 29, olein 24, glycerin or vase¬ 
line, 2, turpentine 4, ultramarine 2. Of this com¬ 
position 2 ozs. are to be used with 22 gallons of 
water. It may be employed for washing the finest 
silk fabrics, as well as ordinary clothes. 

Blanchissine No. 2 is composed of: Ammonia 64 
parts, olein 5, turpentine 25, benzine 6. For wash¬ 
ing fine articles—laces, etc.—in the washing machine 
add 3 ]/ 2 ozs. of this composition to 22 gallons of 
water. 

Hexol. This is a volatile yellow liquid with a 
peculiar but not disagreeable odor, and forms a con¬ 
centrated detergent, which may be used as such, or 
diluted with about 2 volumes of benzine or 95 to 96 
per cent, alcohol, or a mixture of both. Shaken up 
with 5 parts of water, it gives a milky liquid, suita¬ 
ble for removing stains on white articles and the 
like. 

In chemical cleaning it may replace fusel oil, 
chloroform, acetic ether, etc., and its application is 
followed by treatment with benzine, to eliminate all 
final traces of stain. It readily takes out stains 
arising from pitch, oil, tar, etc., and in the concen- 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 91 

< * 

trated form is useful in removing old or obstinate 
stains caused by paint or tar. 

Cleaning dust coats. When cleaning garments of 
this kind it is best to go over them entirely, as in 
partially treating them rings are readily formed. 
Hems and seams, as well as lined cuffs and collars, 
should be treated last, slightly moist. As scouring 
water use a mixture of water 6 parts, ether 6 parts, 
and acetic acid 1 part. 

In case stains of oil, paint or other difficult stains 
are found, the wet article is best treated with ben¬ 
zine, then using immediately the above-mentioned 
scouring water, and finally drying thoroughly with a 
piece of buckskin. 

Morning dresses, rain coats, etc., which, as a rule, 
are only soiled around the bottoms, are treated by 
moistening the stained portions with water acidulated 
with acetic acid, or if the color will stand it, with 
soap water. Then rinse, sour, rinse and centrifuge. 

Stains in velvet and plush are removed with ether 
and water, brushing against the grain and when dry, 
with the grain. For dark and black velvet, alcohol 
is very suitable. 

In removing stains from lined garments it is ad¬ 
visable to open, if possible, a seam, and push a small 
board covered with linen between lining and goods 
to prevent the former from becoming wet. 

In case some stains cannot be completely removed 
from white garments, try to hide them as much as 
possible by covering them with a white substance, 
such as starch, gypsum, magnesia, or talcum. 


92 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

The following spotting fluid may be advantageously 
used for silk: Distilled water, I quart; ether, I 
quart, acetic acid, quart. For one-color, acid- 
dyed woolen stuffs use only distilled water acidulated 
with acetic acid ; for one color woolen stuffs dyed 
with wood-dyes, distilled water with an addition of 
ammonia and ether; for one-color and colored half¬ 
wool and cotton goods, distilled water with an addi¬ 
tion of ether; for colored woolen and half-wool stuffs, 
distilled water only; for black and white half-wool 
stuffs, as well as for striped and checkered, a scour¬ 
ing water consisting of distilled water, I quart, ether, 
i pint, and 4A ozs. common salt. 

In removing stains the operations must not be 
carried on too wet, and nothing but the stain to be 
removed should be treated. The spot should be 
dried as quickly as possible to prevent the formation 
of rings, which is frequently the case in working 
with watery substances. Light-colored silk goods 
are most difficult to manipulate, as rings are likely to 
form and the places to be treated readily lose luster. 
In this case attempts should be made to dissolve the 
stain or remove it by working from the wrong side of 
the goods. This refers to the treatment with water; 
benzine and ethereal substances may be more ener¬ 
getically applied. 

As auxiliary agents for the rapid absorption of 
water, hydroscopic substances are used, plaster of 
Paris and talcum powder being particularly suitable 
for the purpose. When a stain has been removed 
scatter, by means of a fine sieve, plaster of Paris over 


93 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

> *% 

the spot; the layer must be sufficiently deep to ab¬ 
sorb all the water. Then hang the article up, and 
when dry remove the plaster of Paris by rubbfng 
and brushing. This process is, however, suitable 
only for light-colored goods. For dark-colored 
stuffs terre de Sauni'ere or French earth is used, if a 
piece of buckskin does not suffice for the absorption 
of the water. 

The rings formed in removing stains in raw silk 
garments, as well as water and rain stains, are got 
rid of by vigorous steaming. 

The water ring may also be prevented and a great 
deal of trouble saved by having a moderately heated 
puff iron near the spotting table. As soon as the 
spot has been removed with water, and the super¬ 
fluous water has been sopped up with a sponge or 
white blotting paper, place the wet part over the 
heated puff iron, and iron the edges of the water 
mark. 

Another effective method which will prevent water 
marks or rings, is the spraying bottle. The bottle 
is filled with an inch of distilled water, and a sec¬ 
tional glass blowpipe attached to the neck. As soon 
as the spot has been eradicated, take the bottle and 
blow into the glass tube, in this way sending a fine 
spray of water over the water ring, then take a clean 
white rag and rub the spray over the spot until the 
ring has disappeared, or in other words, even up the 
edges of the ring. 

This method is very effective on pongees, though 
most of the spotters either use the puff iron or a 


94 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

regular iron and iron the wet edges at once. A 
pongee garment should never be allowed to dry, as 
this would necessitate the sponging of the whole 
garment, and frequently create new spots on account 
of the irregularity of the weft. There are quite a 
number of so-called pongees. These are mostly 
imitations, and it is nearly impossible to remove 
any spot from them without removing the color at 
the same time. Water seems to be the greatest 
enemy of these garments, and it is advisable always 
to have handy a bottle of acetic acid, and as soon as 
it is noticed that the color is disappearing, daub a 
little diluted acid on the spot. The acetic acid 
should be diluted with one-third of water. 

Color or dye spots, principally such as have run 
off from other garments, ribbons, or umbrella drip¬ 
pings cannot be removed from imitation pongees 
without destroying the original color, and it is not 
advisable to touch the spots except when the cus¬ 
tomer is willing to accept the responsibility. 

Dust stains are best removed by thorough beating 
and brushing. Old, dried-in stains in fabrics of 
wool, silk, satin, etc., are brushed over with a little 
yolk of egg mixed with alcohol, which is allowed to 
dry and then scraped off. Any adhering yolk of 
egg is finally removed by means of a clean linen rag 
and warm water. 

Mud stains should be allowed to get perfectly dry 
before trying to remove them, and usually a good 
brushing will be all that is required. If, however the 
stain remains it can be easily and quickly removed 


95 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

> 

by using the following mixture: Ammonia 2 ozs., 
soft water one quart, saltpeter one teaspoonful, and 
white soap i oz. Let the mixture stand over night, 
and shake well when it is used. Rub the spots well 
with a sponge saturated with this mixture until the 
last one disappears, then wash it off with clear water. 

Stains of unknown derivation in plain or dyed 
cotton goods are first treated with a very weak, luke¬ 
warm solution of soap, to each quart of which a 
teaspoonful of ammonia has been added. Washing 
is effected with a sponge or tampion dipped into the 
fluid. The fabric is finally washed in water. 

It may here be again remarked that before at¬ 
tempting the removal of stains, an experiment should 
in all cases be made on a portion of the fabric where, 
if a change in the color should take place, it would 
be least noticed. 

For cleaning woolen goods y especially when col¬ 
ored, prepare a mixture of 20 parts ox-gall, 40 parts 
borax, 200 parts water of ammonia, and 500 parts 
alcohol. When solution is complete, add 30 parts 
glycerin and the yolk of 2 eggs. 

Wash the fabric in the boiling solution, using a 
wooden spoon for handling it. Then rinse it in clean 
warm water and dry it in the air, but not in the sun. 

Silk , satin , etc., are treated with a solution of 40 
parts borax, and 10 parts soap in 70 parts dilute 
alcohol, and 30 parts ether. Add to the solution 
the yolks of 2 eggs and 10 parts carbonate of mag¬ 
nesia. Thoroughly shake the mixture before use 
and apply it to the stains. Then wash in lukewarm 


96 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


water, rinse in cold water, and dry at a moderate 
heat. Smooth with a moderately warm iron. Any 
adhering particles of magnesia are removed with a 
brush. 

Grease stains , recent as well as old, are best re- * 
moved by dry cleaning. A good plan of dealing 
with oil stains is to rub them over with a little oleic 
acid, allow this to soak in, then treat the stains with 
soap and water, which will, as a rule, be found effec¬ 
tive in removing them. However, as the fabric may 
be affected by the soap, the following plan may be 
recommended: Wet the fabric, with the exception 
of silk, and after placing several thicknesses of blot¬ 
ting-paper under the stained portions, rub with a 
tampion and a sponge dipped in benzine or turpen¬ 
tine. When the stain has disappeared from the sur¬ 
face, place a piece of blotting-paper upon it and pass 
a hot flat-iron several times over it. The entire 
fabric is finally washed in warm soap-water, to which 
ammonia has been added, or, still better, in a warm 
decoction of soaproot or of quillaia-bark. 

The use of benzine for the removal of grease spots 
has the disadvantage that a spotty appearance is fre¬ 
quently left on the fabric. To overcome this defect, 
the use of the following preparations has been 
recommended : 

Benzinized magnesia. This is prepared by mix¬ 
ing calcined magnesia (not carbonate of magnesia) 

with just sufficient pure benzine so as to moisten it 

• 

without being pasty. It should be just wet enough 
so that when the mass is pressed between the fingers, 


9 7 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

a small quantity of liquid benzine is squeezed out. 
In this state it forms a crummy mass which is kept 
for use in a well-corked, somewhat wide-mouthed, 
glass bottle. For use spread the preparation quite 
thickly over the stains and rub it thoroughly to and 
fro with the tip of the finger. Brush off the small 
lumps of earthy matter thus formed, lay on more of 
the preparation, allowing it to remain until the ben¬ 
zine has entirely evaporated, and then brush off the 
adhering particles of magnesia. 

Gelatinized benzine may be used in the same man¬ 
ner, it being in many cases preferable to benzinized 
magnesia. It is prepared by dissolving in a quart 
bottle 120 parts of soap in 180 parts of hot water 
and adding 30 parts of ammonia. Then add suffi¬ 
cient water to fill the bottle three-quarters full, next 
sufficient benzine to fill it entirely, and shake. 

Of this solution, mix one teaspoonful in a half pint 
bottle with some benzine, and, after mixing, fill the 
bottle with benzine, shaking constantly. With this 
gelatine, stains of all sorts can be removed wiihout 
risk of injury to even the most delicate colors. 
However, if, on account of the employment of ben¬ 
zine, the formation - af circles, rings, etc., is feared, 
scatter upon the place; while still wet, plaster of Paris 
or talcum, which-after drying is brushed off. 

In many cases, especially when the grease-stains 
are fresh, the damage may be remedied by the use 
of ammonia or weak soda solution, and subsequent 
washing. From silk fabrics grease stains are re¬ 
moved with benzinized magnesia or gelatinized ben- 

7 


98 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


zine; etherized magnesia, which is prepared in a 
similar manner as benzinized magnesia, being, how¬ 
ever, preferable for the purpose. 

Etherized magnesia is prepared by mixing calcined 
magnesia with sufficient ether to form a thin paste, 
which is spread over the stains. When the ether 
has vaporized, brush off the magnesia spot and 
finally rub with a piece of soft white bread. Under 
certain conditions, etherized magnesia, as well as alco¬ 
hol, may, however, act energetically upon colors. 

All stains of a fatty nature disappear by thorough 
chemical cleaning, and there remain behind only the 
so-called “ water-stains ” due to milk, soup, beer, 
etc., which can be bru'shed out with water. Such 
stains, as well as those of coffee, wine, sugar and tea, 
disappear from white goods by treatment with luke¬ 
warm soap solution and thorough washing with water. 
Checked and all other stuffs, for which soap cannot 
be used, are treated with cold water slightly acidu¬ 
lated with acetic acid, which generally accomplishes 
the object, and does not injure even the most deli¬ 
cate colors. When the entire front of a coat is 
covered with smaller and larger stains of this nature, 
it is best to work from seam to seam, spreading the 
coat upon the scouring board, brushing it thoroughly 
and quickly with water, and absorbing the latter at 
once with a piece of buckskin. Special attention 
must be paid to the lining because by pressure it 
frequently produces darker stains. Care must also 
be had that the coat does not lose shape by this 
treatment, and that the stiffening and interlining are 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 99 

1 ^ 

not shifted; hence as little water as possible should 
be used. 

Very old grease stains are first treated withchloro- 
form, and then with benzinized magnesia. Stains of 
solid fats, such as tallow, lard, wax, paraffine, cere- 
sine, etc, are first softened with castor oil and then 
treated as above. Saponification of the grease in 
the tissues by the use of ammonia or soda lye can¬ 
not be recommended for wool and silk, and for 
cotton and linen only when the colors are fast to 
soap; with these materials satisfactory results are, 
as a rule, also obtained with ether, benzine or chloro¬ 
form. 

Grease stains upon the back of garments caused 
by long hair, are removed by rubbing with a piece of 
cotton dipped in the following mixture: Ammonia 
4 spoonfuls, common salt 1 spoonful; shake thor¬ 
oughly. Or, dissolve a small quantity of gall soap 
in water, moisten a small brush with the solution, 
brush the stains and rinse in clean water. 

Faint and varnish stains are first treated with pure 
turpentine. Old stains are best removed by repeated 
applications of a mixture of turpentine and chloro¬ 
form, the solvent being allowed to soak well in before 
the application of blotting paper as described under 
“ grease stains.” Chloroform by itself is also an ex¬ 
cellent solvent for old stains, and the removal of the 
latter with benzinized magnesia is then readily 
effected. 

Stains of resin, tar, or wagon-grease. To remove 
these and similar stains from white goods, moisten 

> 

> 

n » 


IOO DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

the fabric, rub the stain with a sponge dipped in 
turpentine, place blotting-paper beneath and on top 
of the grease spot, and pass a hot iron several times 
over it. Finally wash the entire fabric in warm soap 
water. Colored cotton or woolen fabrics are mois¬ 
tened, the stains thoroughly soaped, and after allow¬ 
ing the soap to act for a few minutes, washed alter¬ 
nately with turpentine and water. 

If the stains do not yield to this treatment, spread 
a mixture of yolk of egg and turpentine over the 
stains; when dry scrape it off, and finally wash in 
hot water. 

As a final means, the fabric may be washed in 
water to which some hydrochloric acid has been 
added, and thoroughly rinsed in soft water. 

Articles of silk, satin, etc., are moistened, and the 
stains rubbed with a sponge dipped in a mixture of 
ether and chloroform. When the stain has disap¬ 
peared scatter bole (pipe-clay) upon the place, cover 
with blotting paper, and pass a hot iron several 
times over it. 

If the stain has not disappeared, mix yolk of egg 
with chloroform, spread the mixture over the stain, 
allow it to dry, then scrape off, and treat as pre¬ 
viously described. 

Stearin and wax-stains are carefully removed as 
much as possible with a knife. Then place a wet 
linen rag beneath, and blotting-paper on top, of the 
stain and pass a warm flat-iron over it. 

If the stain is inacessible with the flat-iron, treat 
it with chloroform, which will surely remove it. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. IOI 

Fruit-stains disappear from linen goods (table¬ 
cloths, napkins, handkerchiefs, etc.), by rinsing in 
ean de Javelle or another bleaching-flnid, or in weak 
solution of chloride of lime, which must, however, 
be perfectly clear, and to which some vinegar may 
be added. When the fabric is clean, it is thoroughly 
rinsed in running water and best drawn through a 
solution of sodium hyposulphite, or of soda. 

White cotton goods may be treated in a similar 
manner. Fruit-stains frequently disappear by simply 
washing in soap-water to which some borax or am¬ 
monia has been added. 

Woolen goods are either immersed in a weak so¬ 
lution of sulphurous acid, or subjected to the action 
of a solution of hyposulphite of soda for about one 
hour, and then brought into a solution of tartaric 
acid, where they remain until the stain has dis¬ 
appeared. They are finally washed in water to 
which some bicarbonate of soda has been added. 

For colored goods the above-mentioned methods 
cannot be used, it being first necessary to make an 
experiment to see whether the colors will stand chlo¬ 
rine or sulphurous acid, i. e. y whether they are likely 
to be changed or perhaps entirely destroyed by the 
action of these agents. If the colors will stand soap, 
the stains will disappear by washing in tepid soap 
solution, or in a decoction of soap-root or quillaia 
bark, otherwise they will have to be covered by 
dyeing. 

Stains of red wine , cherries , whortleberries , etc., in 
white goods are treated in the same manner as fruit- 
stains. 


102 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Stains of wine may be quickly and easily removed 
from linen by dipping the stained parts into boiling 
milk, the milk to be kept boiling until the stain dis¬ 
appears. 

Milk and coffee-stains. Apply a mixture of yolk 
of egg and glycerin, then wash in warm water, and 
while still moist, iron the fabries upon the wrong 
side with a flat-iron which should not be too hot. 

As a rule, milk and coffee-stains are difficult to 
remove, especially from light colored and finely 
finished goods. From woolen and mixed fabrics 
they are taken out by moistening them with a mix¬ 
ture of i part glycerin, 9 parts water, and y 2 part 
ammonia. This mixture is applied to the goods by 
means of a brush and allowed to remain for 12 hours, 
occasionally renewing the moistening. After this 

m 

the stained pieces are pressed between cloth and 
then rubbed with a clean rag. Drying, and if pos¬ 
sible, a little steaming, are generally sufficient to 
thoroughly remove the stains. 

Stains on silk garments which are dyed with deli¬ 
cate colors, or finely finished, are more difficult to 
remove. In this case 5 parts of glycerin are mixed 
with 5 parts of water, and y part of ammonia added. 
Before using this mixture it should be tried on some 
part of the garments where it will not be noticed, in 
order to see if the mixture will change the color. If 
such is the case, no ammonia should be added. If, 
on the contrary, no change takes place, or if, after 
drying, the original color is restored, the above mix¬ 
ture is applied with a soft brush, allowing it to remain 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 103 

■> 

on the stains for 6 to 8 hours, and is then rubbed 
with a clean cloth. The remaining dry substance is 
then carefully taken off by means of a knife. The 
damaged places are now brushed over with clean 
water, pressed between cloths, and dried. If the 
stain is not then removed, rubbing with dry bread 
will cause it to disappear. To restore the finish, 
a thin solution of gum arabic—in many cases beer is 
preferred—is brushed on, then dried, and carefully 
ironed. By careful manipulation the above men¬ 
tioned stains will be successfully removed. 

Soup stains , as zvell as smaller grease-stams in 
general , are removed by washing in hot water to 
which some soda, or borax, or ammonia has been 
added. 

Stains on cotton goods need only be rubbed with 
rectified oil of turpentine or benzine. The surplus 
of the solvent is then removed with blotting-paper 
and the fabric washed in clean soap-water, whereby 
the stains will be successfully removed. 

Silk fabrics are treated in the same manner, ether 
or chloroform being, however, preferred to benzine. 

Stains of beer , wine , punch , sugar , gelatine , glue, 
etc. Comparatively speaking, these stains are very 
readily removed, simple washing in clean, tepid soap- 
water being in most cases sufficient. If necessary, 
the fabric may be washed in eau de Javelle or an¬ 
other bleaching fluid, or in perfectly-clear solution of 
chloride of lime to which some vinegar has been 
added. It is finally thoroughly rinsed in water, or, 
still better, in a solution of hyposulphite of soda. 


104 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 


Grass-stains are removed from linen goods by 
washing in boiling water or by treating with a 
bleaching-fluid. 

Another plan is to wash the stained places in clean, 
cold soft water, without soap, before the garment is 
otherwise wet. 

Grass-stains on cotton, woolen, or silk fabrics are 
removed by moistening them with chloride of tin 
and immediately washing in a large quantity of water. 

Stains from green nuts , as well as so-called tannin- 
stains y are repeatedly washed with water and alcohol, 
then treated with dilute chlorine-water, pure, per¬ 
fectly clear chloride of lime solution acidulated with 
vinegar, or one of the various bleaching-fluids, and 
finally washed in much water. 

Acid stains , when fresh, disappear by moistening 
them with ammonia or soda solution, the original 
color being in almost all cases restored by the sub¬ 
sequent application of chloroform. 

Old stains resist all reagents and have to be re¬ 
dyed. 

Nitric acid stains. These stains are generally of a 
yellow color, and, when fresh, can be removed from 
brown or black woolen garments by moistening them 
for a while with concentrated solution of permanga¬ 
nate of potash and rinsing with water. Old stains 
are brushed over with nitrate of silver solution, 
whereby they acquire a black color. 

Stains of wine vinegar , sour wine , etc. , are re¬ 
moved by neutralizing the acid with water of ammo¬ 
nia, soda, or a similar agent. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. ICK 

a 

Lye- and lime-stains disappear from linen fabrics 
by washing. From cotton, woolen, and silk goods 
the stains are removed by carefully applying to them, 
drop by drop, any acid (with the exception of sul¬ 
phuric and tartaric acids), until they have disap¬ 
peared, and then thoroughly washing. Hydrochlo¬ 
ric acid free from iron is best suited for the purpose. 

Urine stains are treated with alcohol or dilute citric 
acid solution, and the place where the stain has been 
is revived with chloroform. The following mixture 
will also be found useful: Tartaric acid I part, water 
30 parts. Or, oxalic acid 1 part, water 10 parts. 

Perspiratiori stains are removed from woolen and 
cotton goods with sodium hyposulphite solution and 
subsequent washing with water; from silk and satin, 
also with dilute sodium hyposulphite solution, or, 
from silk with strong salt water in which the article 
is allowed to remain 3 to 4 hours. From worsted 
and cheviot garments perpiration stains are removed 
by brushing with benzine and finally by washing with 
soap and water. If, as is frequently the case, the 
ground color of colored goods is injured by this 
process it has to be remedied by re-dying. 

Perspiration stains are removed from woolen goods 
with distilled water and a small quantity of castile 
soap solution by brushing the spot and then rinsing 
to remove all the soap ; the spot is finally moistened 
with saccharic acid solution. Subsequent thorough 
washing is absolutely necessary, as otherwise the lin¬ 
ing would be burned by the remaining acid. Silk 
articles as well as cotton goods are treated in the 


106 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

same manner, chlorine instead of saccharic acid 
being, however, used for the latter. By reason of 
the varying constitution of the stuffs no general rule 
can, however, be laid down and the removal of such 
stains has to be done by a skilled hand. 

Perspiration stains may also be removed with a 
mixture of i part ammonia, 3 parts alcohol and 3 
parts ether. From white linen and cotton goods 
they are removed by rational washing with soap. 

Uniform facings, cuffs, pocket flaps, etc., of a red 
or other color, when soiled by perspiration, are first 
chemically cleaned with benzine soap. They are 
next thoroughly brushed and rinsed in clean benzine. 
When the benzine has evaporated, they are again 
thoroughly brushed with lukewarm water to which 
ammonia has been added, then rinsed by means of a 
sponge with lukewarm water and dried with a flannel 
rag of the same color as the goods. By the appli¬ 
cation of the water and ammonia, the dirt imme¬ 
diately dissolves so that it can be removed with the 
finger nail or a dull knife. 

Greasy shine of men’s worn worsted or cheviot 
garments is removed by gently rubbing the shiny 
places with glass or emery paper, and then vigor¬ 
ously vaporizing by means of a moist cloth and hot 
iron, or by steaming. If the color of the goods 
allows, the places may also be thoroughly brushed 
with alum solution, dried and ironed while quite 
damp. 

Nitrate of silver stains in white goods are re¬ 
moved with a fluid consisting of 100 parts by weight 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 107 

of distilled water, 4 parts by weight of ammonia, and 
4 parts by weight of chloride of mercury. The 
same object is more rapidly effected with potassium 
cyanide solution, but this substance being extremely 
poisonous, great care is required as well as subse¬ 
quent thorough washing. 

Aniline color stains. Red stains due to aniline 
color are removed with hot alcohol or with soda 
solution heated to 122 0 F., provided the ground 
color is sufficiently fast notto be attacked by the soda. 

Ink stains. These may be due to aniline ink and 
nutgall ink. 

t 

In the first case the stains—provided they are not 
on silk fabrics—will generally yield to washing in 
soap-water, in a bleaching fluid, or in alcohol acidu¬ 
lated with vinegar. 

The removal of stains, due to nut-gall ink is more 
difficult. If not too old, stains on linen fabrics some¬ 
times yield by laying the latter in a bleaching fluid 
or chloride of lime solution, allowing them to remain 
for some time. In applying these substances great 
care must be taken, especially with bleaching fluid, 
not to use them too strong, or they will act upon the 
fabric and destroy it. 

The stains also frequently disappear by treating 
them with a concentrated solution of oxalic, tartaric, 
or hydrochloric acid. 

A peculiar method of treating ink stains, as well as 
iron-mold stains, is as follows: Scatter upon the 
moistened stain pulverized oxalic acid and rub it into 
the tissue with a bright piece of iron; or stretch the 


138 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

stained portion of the fabric over a heated bright tin 
pot or tin plate, and rub in the powdered oxalic 
acid. The action is the more effective the more 
intimately the stain is brought in contact with the 
heated metal. 

To produce the best effect it is only necessary to 
scatter fine tin dust or tin shavings upon the stain 
previously moistened with hot oxalic acid solution. 
The stain disappears as if by magic. 

Another method is as follows: Mix equal parts of 
cream of tartar and citric acid, powdered fine. This 
forms the salt of lemons as sold by druggists. Pro¬ 
cure a hot dinner-plate, lay the part stained on the 
plate, and moisten with hot water; next rub in the 
above-mentioned powder with the bowl of a spoon 
until the stain disappears; then rinse in clean water 
and dry. 

The stain may also be washed in a solution of 
yellow prussiate of potash to which sulphuric acid 
has been added, and the blue spot thereby formed 
removed by rinsing in potash solution. If, after 
this, a yellow stain should remain, it is removed with 
sulphuric acid. 

Beschorner recommends the following process: 
Place the linen fabric in a mixture of 15 parts dis¬ 
tilled water and 2 parts hydrochloric acid, allow it to 
remain in the mixture for half an hour, then wash 
thoroughly in clean water, and pour ammonium sul¬ 
phide over the still moist stain ; the latter operation 
should be conducted in the open air. After ten 
minutes, when the iron has been converted into fer- 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 109 

rous sulphide, rinse the linen in clear water, pour a 
mixture of 1 part hydrochloric acid and 15 parts dis¬ 
tilled water over it, and again rinse in clean water. 

Fresh ink-stains on cotton or woolen goods are 
generally removed by allowing a drop of grease from 
a burning tallow candle to fall upon the stain, and 
washing in a concentrated solution of pyrophosphate 
of soda. The older the stain the more thoroughly 
it has to be washed. 

For stains on fabrics dyed with fast colors, chloride 
of lime or tartaric acid may be used. 

Old ink-stains are washed in dilute chloride of tin 
solution, and the fabric thoroughly rinsed in soft 
water. 

From silk fabrics ink-stains, as a rule, cannot be 
removed, the only remedy being to re-dye the stained 
portions. 

If the colors of the fabric permit, the stain may be 
moistened with strong vinegar, covered for some time 
with beechwood ash, and finally washed in strong 
soap-water. 

From scarlet woolen fabrics black ink-stains can 
be readily removed by moistening the stain with 
cold water by means of a white rag, then applying a 
few drops of lemon juice, and after the disappearance 
of the black stain washing with clean cold water. 

In place of the method of removing ink-stains by 
means of oxalic acid and subsequent treatment with 
potassium permanganate, the following process is rec¬ 
ommended : Prepare so-called aceto-oxalic acid by 
saturating 10 per cent, acetic acid with oxalic acid, 


IIO DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

and mix i part of the product with 4 parts of alcohol. 
The solution, which depends for its action on the 
solubility of iron oxalate in alcohol, will eradicate 
stains caused by ferro-gallic inks, and it may also 
be used for stains arising from copying and aniline 
inks. To colored stripe goods it must, however, be 
applied with care, as there is some risk of the colors 
running, so that an aqueous solution of the mixed 
acids is preferable for such fabrics. One of the chief 
advantages of the alcoholic solution is that it will 
dissolve ink stains on light-colored fabrics without 
affecting the dye ; and it is also applicable for re¬ 
moving colored stains, such as produced by chloro¬ 
phyll ( grass stains'). 

Blood stains may be removed by means of luke¬ 
warm water to which ammonia has been added. 

Glacial acetic acid is claimed to be particularly 
serviceable for the removal of such stains, bleeding 
of the colors being thereby prevented. 

Another method is as follows: Prepare a thick 
paste of starch and cold water, spread a thick layer 
of it on the stain and let dry, and then beat the ma¬ 
terial on the wrong side to cause the starch to fall 
off. If necessary, repeat the process until the stain 
disappears. 

From woolen garments blood stains may be re¬ 
moved by soaking the garments for four or five 
hours in cold water to which a little common salt 
has been added, and afterwards surface-cleaning with 
a solution of ammonia. 

Metallic oxide stains. These stains, as a rule, have 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. I I I 

a brown-bluish appearance and are difficult to re¬ 
move. They may, however, be got rid of by a com¬ 
bined method as follows: Dab the stains first with 
zinc chloride, then draw the material over the steamer, 
and after a few seconds dab the stains with potassium 
cyanide, which has to be handled with the greatest 
care as it is very poisonous. Next wash the stains 
with distilled water, then treat them with formic acid 
and finally rinse thoroughly. By this treatment the 
stains will disappear. 

If no zinc chloride should be on hand, two pieces 
of thin sheet-zinc may be used as follows: Place 
one of the pieces of sheet-zinc upon the stain, drop 
one drop of hydrochloric acid upon it, lay the other 
piece of sheet-zinc upon the first, and place a hot 
iron on it. By the heating, hydrogen is evolved and 
zinc chloride is formed, which penetrates into the 
stain. After removing the pieces of zinc treat the 
stain with potassium cyanide and formic acid. 

Stains of artificial perfumes . Artificial perfumes 
are now in common use and many stains caused by 
them prove very obstinate. Many of them are easily 
removed with a mixture of acetic acid and alcohol, if 
the mixture is used warm, and if the garment to be 
cleaned is white, at least where the stain appears. 
Many dyes bleed when the mixture of acid and alco¬ 
hol is applied. The problem is again complicated 
by the fact that many perfumes are prepared with 
impure alcohol containing fusel oil and resins. 
Fusel oil and resins leave, after evaporation of the 
alcohol, green, yeilow and brown stains. Some per- 


I I 2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

fumes also leave dull-white patches of stearine. All 
these stains require treatment with ether, great care 
being taken to prevent the stains from spreading. 
To do this the ether must be applied around the 
stain before using it on the stain itself. A subse¬ 
quent treatment with rectified alcohol will take out 
any traces of perfume stain which the ether may 
have failed to remove. If, however, the perfume 
stain is associated with discoloration due to other 
agencies, the part of the stain for which the perfume 
is responsible must be first removed as above di¬ 
rected. The remaining stain will almost always 
yield to the joint action of oxalic acid and hydrogen 
peroxide. 

In the case of silk it is a good plan to damp the 
place where the stain has been with strong alcohol, 
which is then allowed to evaporate. This treatment 
will restore the luster which is nearly always affected 
by the stain removal. 

Iron and rust stains may generally be removed in 
the same manner as ink-stains. They frequently dis¬ 
appear readily and rapidly by placing the fabrics in 
a bleaching fluid or a clear solution of chloride of 
lime acidulated with acetic acid, and finally thorough 
washing in water. 

The stains also disappear in boiling solution of 
tartaric acid. Very good results are frequently ob¬ 
tained by the use of hot solutions of oxalic, tartaric 
or citric acid. 

The removal of iron or rust stains, which at the 
same time form oil or fat stains, is, however, more 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. I 13 

, •> 

difficult. It may most readily be accomplished by 
washing in a bath of 1 part soft soap, [ part glycerin, 
and 3 parts water. 

Galvanic method of removing rust stains. Men¬ 
tion may here be made of this little known method 
in which rust stains are removed from loose fabrics 
by boiling in weak sulphuric acid in a copper pan 
into which is dipped a piece of zinc wrapped in linen 
in order to protect the goods from the zinc flakes 
detached as the metal dissolves in the acid. A 
jacketed pan is preferably used. Even old rust 
stains can be quickly removed by this treatment. 

Mold and mildew stains are formed in fabrics of 
any kind kept in a room from which the air is ex¬ 
cluded. The dressing on the damp places dissolves 
and on slowly drying penetrates into the fabric. For 
the removal of such stains alcohol is first used, which 
dissolves the dressing. Then dab the stains with 
ammonia, allowing it to act for a few minutes ; next, 
without previous rinsing, dab them with potassium 
permanganate, allowing it also to act for a few min¬ 
utes; then moisten with hydrogen peroxide, and 
finally wash thoroughly. 

Old mold stains are removed as follows: Satu¬ 
rate a white rag with ammonia, wrap it in another 
clean dry rag, place it on a steamer, draw the stained 
article over the rag and for several minutes pass 
steam through it. The stains are then treated with 
potassium permanganate and hydrogen peroxide as 
described above. 

Colored articles with mold stains may be treated 

8 


I 14 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

in the same manner, but with the omission of the 
bleaching agents. After steaming over the rag 
saturated with ammonia, the stained portions are 
moistened with acetic acid and again steamed to 
restore the original color. Instead of alcohol for 
the first treatment, acetic ether may be used to ad¬ 
vantage. 

When stains are to be removed from dyed fabrics, 
a preliminary test should be made to ascertain the 
behavior of the dye towards the reagent, this being 
especially necessary with fabrics upon which the 
coloring matter is not fixed, and which yield the 
latter by simple treatment with water or soap-water. 

The following table gives at a glance the best 
means of cleaning all kinds of fabrics from any stain. 


From Colored Goods. 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 


11 5 


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II6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

The preceding table and the receipts previously 
given, together with the directions which follow, af¬ 
ford a ready means of determining the proper method 
of procedure. Taking out grease and other spots 
from clothes is an application of chemistry which 
is of practical interest to everybody. It demands 
a certain acquaintance with solvents and reagents, 
even though the laws of chemical affinity on which 
their action depends may not be understood. The 
general principle is the application to the spot of a 
substance which has a stronger affinity for the mat¬ 
ter composing it than this has for cloth, and which 
will render it soluble in some liquid so that it can be 
washed out. At the same time it must be something 
that will not injure the texture of the fabric or change 
its color. 

The following directions apply especially to the 
garment dyer: 

Steam has the property of softening fatty matters 
and thus facilitating their removal by reagents. 

Sulphuric acid may be employed in certain cases, 
especially to brighten and raise greens, reds, and 
yellows, but it must be diluted with at least ioo 
times its weight of water or more, according to the 
delicacy of the shades. 

Hydrochloric acid is used with success for remov¬ 
ing spots of ink and iron-mold upon a great num¬ 
ber of colors which it does not sensibly affect. 

Sulphurous acid is only used for bleaching un¬ 
dyed goods, straw hats, etc., and for removing fruit- 
stains upon white woolen and silk fabrics. The 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. I 17 

fumes of burning sulphur are also employed for this 
purpose, but the liquid acid (or a solution of the 
bisulphite —not bisnlphate —of soda or magnesia) is 
safer. 

Oxalic acid serves for removing spots of ink and 
iron, and the residues of mud spots which do not 
yield to other cleansing agents. It may be em¬ 
ployed for destroying the stains of fruit and astrin¬ 
gent juices, and stains of urine which have long been 
upon any tissue. Nevertheless it is best confined to 
undyed goods, as it attacks not only fugitive colors, 
but also certain of the lighter fast colors. The best 
method of applying it is to dissolve it in cold or luke¬ 
warm water, and to let a little of the solution remain 
upon the spot before rubbing it with the hands. 

Citric acid serves to revive and raise certain colors, 
especially greens and yellows; it destroys the effect 
of alkalies or any bluish or crimson spots which ap¬ 
pear upon scarlets. In its stead acetic acid may be 
employed. 

Ammonia is the most energetic and useful agent 
employed for cleaning tissues and silk hats, and lor 
quickly neutralizing the effects of acids. In the 
latter case it is often sufficient to expose the goods 
to the fumes of this alkali in order to remove such 
spots entirely. 1 Ammonia gives a violet cast to all 
shades produced with cochineal, lac, the redwoods, 
or logwood, and all colors topped with cochineal. 
It does not deteriorate silks, but at elevated temper¬ 
atures it perceptibly attacks woolens. It serves to 
restore the black upon silks damaged by damp. 


I 18 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Carbonate of soda (soda crystals) serves equally 
in most of the cases where ammonia is employed. 
It is good for hats affected by sweat. Soda and 
potash only serve for the white goods of linen, hemp, 
or cotton, because these alkalies attack colors and 
injure the tenacity and suppleness of woolens and 
silks. For the same reason white soap only is to be 
recommended for cleaning white woolen tissues. 

Mottled soaps serve for cleaning heavy stuffs of 
woolen or cotton, such as quilts. For such articles 
as do not require great suppleness or softness of 
feel, the action of the soap may be enhanced by the 
addition of a small quantity of potash. 

Soft potash soaps may be usefully employed in 
solution together with gum-arabic or other mucilag¬ 
inous matters, for cleaning dyed goods and especi¬ 
ally self-colored silks. This composition is prefer¬ 
able to white or marbled soaps, as it removes the 
spots better and attacks the colors much less. 

Ox-gall dissolves most fatty bodies without injur¬ 
ing either the color or the fiber. It may be used 
preferably to soap for cleaning woolens; but not for 
cleaning stuffs of light and delicate colors which it 
may spoil by imparting to them a greenish-yellow or 
even a deep green tint. It is also mixed with other 
matters such as turpentine, alcohol, honey, yolk of 
egg, fuller’s earth, etc., and in this state is used for 
cleaning silk. 

Yolk of egg possesses nearly the same properties 
as ox-gall, but is much more expensive. It must be 
used as quickly as possible, for it loses its efficacy 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. I 19 

* 

with keeping. It is sometimes mixed with an equal 
bulk of turpentine. 

BLEACHING PROCESSES APPLICABLE TO SPOTTING. 

When in spotting nothing can be done by means 
of solvents such as benzine, alcohol, carbon tetra¬ 
chloride, ether, etc., recourse is had to bleaching, 
though many cleaners do not care to do so, fearing 

loss of color. However every cleaner should under- 

* 

stand the dyes he has to deal with. All basic dye¬ 
stuffs such as rhodamine can without hesitation be 
bleached with potassium permanganate and sulphur¬ 
ous acid. To be sure pale places will sometimes be 
found. In green articles the places remain yellow, 
but by dabbing the bleached stains with acetic acid 
and drawing over the steamer the original color is 
restored. 

Of the various methods of bleaching that of 
Bleaching with potassium permanganate will first 
be considered. When a fabric of cotton, wool or 
silk is dabbed at the ordinary temperature of a room 
with the red solution of potassium permanganate, 
the latter is immediately reduced and a brown stain 
of manganese hydroxide is formed. The reaction 
can be expressed by the equation: 

2KMn0 4 = Mn 2 0 , + K a O + 4O 

Potassium Manganic Potassium Oxygen, 
permanganate. oxide. oxide. 

the manganese oxide combining with water to form 
the hydroxide. 


120 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

In the warm, the reaction proceeds as follows: 

2 KMnO = 2Mn0 2 + K O + 3 O 

Potassium Aanganese Potassium Oxygen, 

permanganate. peroxide oxide. 

the manganese peroxide in this case forming the 
hydrated peroxide by combining with water. 

Reducing effect of carbon dioxide. If the brown 
stain be touched with solution of sulphur dioxide 
(sulphurous acid), the bleaching effect of the potas¬ 
sium permanganate becomes apparent- The sul¬ 
phur dioxide by its powerful reducing action de¬ 
oxidizes the brown manganese peroxide or hy¬ 
droxide, to manganous oxide or hydroxide, while 
the sulphurous acid itself is oxidized to sulphuric 
acid. The latter combines with the manganous 
oxide to form manganous sulphate, a nearly 
colorless salt, which can be readily washed out of 
the fabric with water, leaving the site of the stain 
bleached a pure white, and thus demonstrating the 
bleaching action of permanganic acid. 

If the quantity of sulphurous acid used be too 
small, it may happen that a brownish stain is left, 
because the permanganate has not been completely 
oxidized. An excess of sulphurous acid used must 
be completely removed by washing, or it will be 
gradually oxidized to sulphuric acid on the fabric, 
the fibers being then in time corroded and rendered 
brittle. This may occur at once if the fabric be 
ironed. 

Reduction with hydrogen peroxide. By the man- 


121 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

* * 

ganic peroxide which, as previously mentioned, 
appears upon the tissue in the form of a brown stain, 
hydrogen peroxide is by mere contact-action imme¬ 
diately decomposed to water and bleaching oxygen 
(H 2 0 2 = H 2 0 -f- O), an increased bleach being thus 
obtained. 

It is also conceivable that an insoluble layer of 
manganic peroxide is formed upon the fabric, which 
does not allow the complete decomposition of the 
excess of potassium permanganate used upon the 
fiber. It may further happen that the permanganate 
on coming in contact with hydrogen peroxide is re¬ 
duced, so that subsequently the bleaching oxygen 
acts from two sides upon the stained portion of the 
fabric. The object of the addition of acid to the hy¬ 
drogen peroxide is also to form a readily soluble salt 
with the manganous oxide formed by the reduction 
of the peroxide. 

For the reasons mentioned above sulphurous acid, 
which in hydrogen peroxide is also rapidly oxidized 
to sulphuric acid and, at the same time, would absorb 
a large portion of the peroxide for its own oxidation, 
is not used in the modern method. 

Formic acid and acetic acid which have been pro¬ 
posed, also undergo partial oxidation in hydrogen 
peroxide solutions, so that the mixture needs to be 
used in a fresh state. The action is, however, too 
slow. 

In some establishments phosphoric acid and oxalic 
acid are also used. However, these two acids form, 
with manganous oxide, salts—manganese oxalate and 


122 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


manganese phosphate—which dissolve with great 
difficulty in water, and ar-e even in very dilute solu¬ 
tions very difficult of removal from the fabrics by 
rinsing. The use of oxalic acid must be entirely re¬ 
jected, because, independent of the fact that the 
combination formed dissolves with great difficulty, a 
portion of the acid is, on the one hand, lost, as re¬ 
gards the effect of the solution, on coming in con¬ 
tact with the manganic peroxide, carbonic acid escap¬ 
ing, while, on the other, oxalic acid may, under 
certain conditions, exert the same injurious effect 
upon the fabrics as sulphuric acid. 

Phosphoric acid is not attacked by hydrogen per¬ 
oxide and vice versa, and remains unchanged on 
coming together with manganic peroxide. Since 
phosphoric acid acts completely and fully as a sol¬ 
vent upon the manganous oxide and the acid phos¬ 
phate formed dissolves with greater ease than the 
oxalate, its use may deserve consideration. 

The above-mentioned subsequent treatment of the 
brown stain of manganic peroxide may be effected 
with pure hydrogen peroxide solution, or by per¬ 
oxide liberated from sodium peroxide, or oxygenol 
by mixing with an acid. 

Reduction with hydrosulphurous acid. In all cases 
where the use of sulphurous acid is not admissible, 
A. Seyda uses hydrosulphurous acid. It is prepared 
as needed, by shaking, for instance, 50 cubic centi¬ 
meters of concentrated sodium bisulphite solution, 
diluted with the same quantity of water, with a 
knifepointful of zinc dust. When reaction is com- 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 123 

plete, dilute the mixture with water, shake, and filter 
immediately through cotton. Add to the filtrate 
about 20 to 40 cc. of acetic acid together with 
100 cc. of boiling hot water, and use the mixture as 
reducing agent. It may be remarked that hydro- 
sulphuric acid in aqueous solution quickly decom¬ 
poses. 

Seyda gives a method suitable for spotting in the 
cold way as follows: 

1. A mixture of commercial hydrogen peroxide 
with an equal volume of 10 per cent, acetic acid im¬ 
mediately dissolves the manganous acid, relatively 
the potassium permanganate reduced upon the 
fabric. 

2. A serviceable reducing liquor may be prepared 
from sodium peroxide as follows : Dissolve 100 cubic 
centimeters of dilute sulphuric acid (1 part acid to 5 
parts water), one teaspoonful of sodium peroxide, 
add, if necessary, enough, of the latter for the solu¬ 
tion to show a slightly alkaline reaction, then add 
the same volume of 10 per cent, acetic acid and one 
teaspoonful of ammonium chloride. The chemicals 
should be added in the order given. 

3. From oxygenol a reducing liquor is prepared 
as follows : Put in a glass of about 200 cubic centi¬ 
meters capacity, 1 teaspoonful of oxygenol and 1 
teaspoonful of ammonium chloride. Then add 100 
cc. of water and 100 cc. of 10 per cent, acetic acid. 
The solution soon becomes clear. By the addition 
of ammonium chloride, the solution of the manganic 
oxide in the acetic acid is more rapidly effected, 


124 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

The solution prepared with sodium peroxide acts 
more sluggishly than the oxygenol solution. The 
reason for this must be sought in the larger content 
of salt (sodium sulphate) by which the solution of 
even slight quantities of manganic oxide is percepti¬ 
bly impaired. This also is the only explanation why 
with the use of hydrogen peroxide the addition of 
ammonium chloride may be omitted. The above- 
mentioned solution contains 5 per cent, acetic acid; 
it should not be stronger than this, as otherwise the 
colors are injuriously affected in spotting dyed goods. 
Formic acid may be used in place of acetic acid. 
By means of the described method stains of the most 
varying kinds can be removed from white and un¬ 
dyed fabrics, as well as from light-colored goods which 
have been dyed with rhodamine, alizarine blue and 
chrysophenine. If due care is not observed in spot¬ 
ting dyed goods it may happen that the dye-stuff is 
bleached together with the stain and the place treated 
appears white. The only remedy in such a case is 
redying the bleached portion with a suitable dye-stuff 
solution. The behavior of dyed goods towards hy¬ 
drogen peroxide will be referred to later on in speak¬ 
ing of hydrogen peroxide as a spotting agent. 

Bleaching with potassium permanganate is fre¬ 
quently employed in connection with other spotting 
agents. As previously mentioned, bleaching is ef¬ 
fected by dabbing the stain with potassium perman¬ 
ganate solution and dissolving the reduced man¬ 
ganese oxide. 

Combined method of removing stains. Obstinate 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 125 

stains may be removed, especially from white goods, 
by the following method : First remove the fatty 
substances by means of a solvent, best carbon tetra¬ 
chloride, and then moisten the stains, one after the 
other, without previous washing, with undiluted 
ammonia, oxygenol solution and oxalic acid solu¬ 
tion. After the latter treatment, wash thoroughly, 
wipe ofif, damp with alcohol, especially with silk 
articles, and then dry completely. Only old stains 
withstand this treatment. To remove them bleach¬ 
ing with permanganate is made use of, hydrogen 
peroxide with acetic or formic acid (see above) being 
employed for after-treatment. This method is at 
present frequently used in the practice, though it 
may be objected to on the ground that the fabric 
is always endangered by oxalic acid. It has further 
been shown that brownish stains due to the action of 
light and air are after some time formed on the places 
treated with oxalic acid and oxygenol solutions. It 
would therefore be better to substitute in the first 
treatment formic or acetic acid for the oxalic acid. 

Use of hyraldite in spotting. Under the trade 
name of Hyraldite A a very stable combination of 
sodium hydrosulphite with formaldehyde is found in 
commerce. It forms a white mass, readily soluble in 
cold, as well as in hot, water, the solutions being 
very stable in a neutral, as well as alkaline, state. 
However on the addition of sodium bisulphite, acetic 
acid or any other acid, sodium hydrosulphite splits 
ofif which shows energetic reducing action. On this 
property depends the use of Hyraldite A for strip- 


126 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


ping colors from dyed goods. This will be referred 
to later on. 

Hyraldite is, however, also suitable for the removal 
of colored stains. Dissolve a small quantity of hyral¬ 
dite—about the size of a walnut—in about ioo cubic 
centimeters of water acidulated with 15 drops of 10 
per cent, acetic acid and previously heated to boil¬ 
ing. Colored stains disappear by dipping for a few 
seconds the portion of the fabric containing them in 
the warm solution. Another mode of operation is 
as follows : Place the article, for instance, a white silk 
waist stained under the arms with colored perspira¬ 
tion stains, upon a small steamer, damp the stains 
with hyraldite solution and steam. The stains will in 
most cases disappear. ' Either one of these melhods 
is available for white goods as well as for fabrics 
dyed with rhodamine, alkali blue, and chrysophenine. 
Before attempting the removal of colored stains from 
light or dark colored goods dyed with other dye 
stuffs, the behavior of the ground color towards 
hyraldite should be tested. By means of hyraldite 
solution of suitable concentration and with careful 
treatment, it will in most cases be possible to remove 
coloring matter mechanically adhering to the fabric 
without injury to the ground color. 

It sometimes happens that in removing colored 
stains from white goods with hyraldite, yellow stains 
remain behind ; these can be removed with warm 
oxygenol solution. 

Hydrogen peroxide as a spotting agent. Hydrogen 
peroxide, H 2 0 2 , is the combination richest in oxygen 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 12J 

. ^ 

which exists between hydrogen and oxygen. A re¬ 
markable characteristic of hydrogen peroxide is the 
ease with which it decomposes to water and oxygen. 
Hydrogen peroxide is a colorless liquid of syrupy 
consistency and evaporates on exposure to the air; 
in slightly alkaline solutions it will keep for quite a 
long time. 

Commercial solutions of hydrogen peroxide con¬ 
tain as a rule about 3 per cent, by weight of hydro¬ 
gen peroxide corresponding to about 10 to 12 per 
cent, by volume. It contains sometimes, besides a 
slight excess of-phosphoric acid, a small quantity of 
sodium sulphate, and a little magnesium chloride or 
sodium chloride. 

By the addition of phosphoric acid and sodium 
chloride the stability of the hydrogen peroxide solu¬ 
tion is improved. Hydrogen peroxide keeps best at 
a low temperature, in a dark place, and in the pres¬ 
ence of small quantities of acid. Its stability is im¬ 
proved by the addition of about 15 grains of naph¬ 
thalene or y oz. of alcohol to the quart. 

In order to use commercial hydrogen peroxide 
(10 per cent, by volume) for spotting, prepare first 
a bleaching liquor consisting of equal parts of hydro¬ 
gen peroxide and pure water. Heat the bath to 
nearly the boiling-point, compound it with sodium 
silicate till it shows an alkaline reaction, and then add 
a small quantity of white castile soap shavings. Dab 
the stains with this hot bleaching liquor till they are 
bleached. For dabbing use a tuft of cotton wrapped 
round a wooden stick, as hydrogen peroxide makes 


128 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


white stains upon the skin. The moisture must of 
course, from time to time, be taken up with cotton, 
as otherwise too large a surface would be affected. 

In spotting, hydrogen peroxide, to be sure, is 
mostly used for after-treatment, after potassium per¬ 
manganate, but there are many cases in which it may 
be directly employed to advantage. 

After the stained places have been treated with 
commercial hydrogen peroxide, it is advisable to 
hang up the articles for several hours exposed to 
light and air, frequently moistening them during this 
time, and then, after again moistening the stains 
with hydrogen peroxide, to dry the articles in a 
heated drying room. 

When by this method the stains appear sufficiently 
bleached, brush, thoroughly with water and treat with 
dilute acetic acid. Then brush again thoroughly 
with water, and finally dry. 

Coffee and chocolate stains can be removed by 
repeated dabbing and slight rubbing with the above- 
mentioned preparation. 

Sometimes, especially in the case of large stains, a 
few drops of the preparation should for a short time 
be allowed to act upon the stains, and the liquid 
then be taken up with cotton. With the use of pure 
hydrogen peroxide previous dabbing of the stains 
with ammonia, or an addition of ammonia to the 
peroxide is advisable. By the use of hydrogen per¬ 
oxide solution compounded with ammonia, grass , 
beer and milk stains , as well as stains caused by fruit 
juices , can be removed. After treating the stains, 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 129 

. “y 

dry thoroughly, especially in handling light-colored 
goods, with a white woolen rag in order to avoid 
rings. 

Stains due to red wine can be removed with hydro¬ 
gen peroxide solution (without ammonia). For the 
removal of blood stains a hydrogen peroxide solution 
compounded with a small quantity of pure ammonia 
is very suitable. This solution serves also for the 
removal of ink stains by repeated dabbing, but in 
the case of iron-inks previous careful dabbing of the 
stains with hydrochloric acid is required. Rust 
stains should be repeatedly dabbed with hydrochlo¬ 
ric acid, whereby yellow ferric chloride is formed. 
The latter is removed as much as possible with 
cotton, and the remaining yellow stain is then 
dabbed with hydrogen peroxide until it disappears. 
Finally wash with water in the case of woolen, cotton, 
and linen goods; in the case of silk goods rub with 
some distilled water. 

Mold stains and yellow and brown stains , such as 
are frequently found in white fabrics can in many 
cases be removed with hydrogen peroxide; some 
times it may be necessary to first dab the stains care¬ 
fully with dilute hydrochloric acid. 

Stains due to tar or axle grease can in many cases 
be removed by treatment with the above-mentioned 
hydrogen peroxide solution, compounded with so¬ 
dium silicate and soap, or hydrogen peroxide solu¬ 
tion compounded with ammonia, and subsequent 
rinsing with warm soap solution. 

With the previously mentioned bleaching liquor, or 

9 


130 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

equal parts of hydrogen peroxide and water, stained 
white gloves may be cleaned. However, the fol¬ 
lowing process may also be employed : First wash, 
for instance, white buckskin gloves, in a lukewarm fat 
castile soap bath and then rinse thoroughly in soft 
water. The gloves are then treated in a just foam¬ 
ing castile soap bath to which 3 per cent, hydrogen 
peroxide has been added. They are then centrifuged 
and slowly dried in an airy* place. By the hydrogen 
peroxide a beautiful white is obtained on the leather, 
and the residual soap restores pliability. When dry 
the gloves can be rendered more supple by energetic 
rubbing. 

Since the ordinary commercial hydrogen peroxide 
(10 to 12 per cent, by volume) cannot remove 
obstinate stains, a stronger solution is sometimes 
used in chemical cleaning, especially for ink stains 
and the yellow-brown markings caused by perfumes. 

Owing to the bleaching action of hydrogen per¬ 
oxide on dyes it is largely used for eradicating stains 
on white fabrics, but long experience has shown that 
its application is by no means restricted to this class 
of material. 

Behavior of hydrogen peroxide towards colored 
fabrics. In the above-mentioned experiments a 
number of articles of wool, half-wool, cotton, silk 
and half-silk were exposed for a short time (the same 
as in spotting) to the action of hydrogen peroxide 
solution with and without the addition of ammonia. 
The colored goods stained, for instance, with ink or 
rust, also were in many cases carefully treated with 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. I 31 

hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide solution in 
order to ascertain in what manner a change in the 
shade of the color may take place. 

Of the^thirteen articles dyed with basic dye-stuffs 
those which had been dyed with saffranine, rhodo- 
mine, new methylene gray, methylene green, inda- 
mine blue and malachite green proved resistant as 
they did not lose color by rubbing and no change in 
the shades took place. 

Although resorcine • dyestuffs such as eosine, 
erythrosine, etc., cannot lay claim to fastness, the 
articles dyed with them showed neither loss of color 
with gentle rubbing, nor a change in the shades. 

Of the thirteen articles dyed with acid dye-stuffs, 
those dyed with acid violet, keton blue, patent blue 
(V), fast acid blue, violamine, fast acid violet, and 
nigrosine, showed no loss of color and no change 
in the shades was noticed. 

Of the ten samples which were dyed with ten dif¬ 
ferent nitro and azo dyeing stuffs, such as azo yellow, 
bordeaux, cloth-red, fast brown, etc., only the sample 
dyed with fast red suffered a slight loss of coloi by 
the action of the hydrogen peroxide in rubbing. 

Of the fourteen articles dyed with mordanted dye¬ 
stuffs, such as alizarine blue, alizarine yellow, aliza¬ 
rine black, coerule'in, acid alizarine green, etc., all 
proved resistant when rubbed after treatment and no 
changes in color took place, except the samples 
dyed with alizarine brown and alizarine green. 

Among the dyes for wool intended to stand mil¬ 
ling, those prepared with anthracene yellow and 


132 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

chromium fluoride or potassium chromate were 
tested as follows: Hydrogen peroxide solution with 
an addition of ammonia was allowed to act on por¬ 
tions stained with ink. The stains disappeared with¬ 
out any loss or change of color on the part of the 
fabric. 

From articles dyed with milling yellow and with 
anthracene acid brown (mordanted with potassium 
chromate, ink stains (iron ink) were removed by 
treatment with hydrochloric acid and hydrogen per¬ 
oxide; in the first case the color was changed by 
the hydrochloric acid to brown, and in the latter, to 
black. The original color was, however, restored by 
the action of the hydrogen peroxide. From articles 
dyed with milling red and with wool-red, various 
kinds of stains were removed by means of hydro¬ 
chloric acid and hydrogen peroxide without loss of 
color or a change in shades. A fabric dyed with 
alizarine blue (CS) was not changed by hydrochloric 
acid and hydrogen peroxide. Articles dyed with 
milling yellow, alizarine blue, diamine fast red (with 
chrome potash), wool-red, anthracite black, anthra¬ 
cene acid black, and anthracene acid brown (with 
chrome potash) showed themselves entirely indiffer¬ 
ent towards the action of hydrogen peroxide (with 
ammonia), and there was neither loss of color nor 
change in shades. By treatment with hydrogen 
peroxide only about 23 per cent, of the tested 
articles lost more or less color by rubbing. 

According to the results of the above-mentioned 
experiments, which on the whole are very favorable, 


133 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 

hydrogen peroxide may also be used in spotting 
colored goods provided due care is observed. 

Oxygenol as a spotting agent. Oxygenol is an 
odorless white powder soluble in water, the solution 
showing distinctly an alkaline reaction. When dis¬ 
solved in water oxygenol yields its oxygen, and to 
increase the evolution of the latter, the temperature 
of the water used for solution should be between 86° 
and 104° F. By maintaining this temperature the 
oxygen is not too energetically evolved, and its 
bleaching effect is thus utilized to the utmost. If the 
solution is heated to above 140° F., the oxygen is 
evolved too rapidly, and at the boiling-point escapes 
entirely. 

For spotting purposes oxygenol is suitable only 
for the removal of stains from white articles. Many 
such stains can be removed by repeatedly treating 
them with oxygenol solution heated to from 113 0 to 
122° F., f to ]/ 2 oz. of oxygenol dissolved in one quart 
of water being very suitable for the purpose. In the 
practice about 2 to 3 tablespoonfuls of oxygenol to 
one quart of water are frequently used. In spotting, 
a mixture consisting of 3^ ozs. oxygenol to one quart 
of water, and about ^ oz. of formic acid or 3 x / 2 ozs. 
acetic acid is sometimes used. It is suitable for 
carefully dabbing the stained fabrics at the ordinary 
temperature. It may also be employed for after- 
treatment (after the permanganate process). 

When the removal of the stains with hot oxygenol 
solution is not possible, strip them first with hyral- 
dite and then treat them with hot oxygenol solution 
until they disappear. 


134 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Fruit and coffee stains yield quickly to hot concen¬ 
trated oxygenol solution ; cacao stains disappear only 
after repeated treatment. 

Red wine stains are first bleached with potassium 
permanganate and subsequently repeatedly treated 
with hot oxygenol solution. 

Blood stains are removed with comparative ease 
and in a short time. For the removal of rust and ink 
stains oxygenol solution appears to be less suitable. 
On the other hand, it can be successfully used for 
getting rid of scorched places, yellow stains and 
edges in cotton fabrics, laces, etc. 

As previously stated oxygenol is chiefly used for 
the removal of stains from white fabrics. Since its 
solution, similar to that of hydrogen peroxide, exerts, 
according to its concentration, a more or less bleach¬ 
ing effect, dyed articles may be attacked by it. 

Behavior of oxygenol towards colored articles. To 
test the behavior of oxygenol in this respect, experi¬ 
ments were made with dyed wool and cotton goods. 
It was found that, generally speaking, warm oxygenol 
solution exerts a somewhat stronger bleaching effect 
than ordinary commercial hydrogen peroxide solu¬ 
tion. Of cotton goods dyed with aniline colors only 
those proved quite resistant to lukewarm oxygenol 
solution which were dyed with new gray indoplienin, 
bismarck brown, new fast blue and new fast grey. 
Of woolen fabrics dyed with milling fast dye-stuffs, 
the action of oxygenol solution heated to 113 0 F. 
which evolved oxygen quite energetically, was re¬ 
sisted only by such as were dyed with alizarine blue, 
diamine scarlet, wool-red, anthracene acid brown 


REMOVAL OF STAINS, OR SPOTTING. 135 

(with chrome potash), anthracene black, and anthra¬ 
cene acid black. Woolen goods dyed with milling 
yellow and with milling red proved quite resistant 
when treated with oxygenol solution, yielding but 
little coloring matter on rubbing, and those dyed with 
anthracene yellow and milling yellow (O) showed still 
greater resistance even on rubbing. 

The results of the above-mentioned experiments 
show that oxygenol is especially suitable for the 
removal of stains from white fabrics. 

Sodium peroxide as a spotting and washing agent. 
Sodium peroxide may be used in spotting in place 
of hydrogen peroxide. It is found in commerce in 
the form of a grayish-yellow granular powder, which 
readily dissolves in water with the generation of a 
considerable amount of heat and some loss of 
oxygen. 

The bleaching liquor for spotting is prepared as 
follows: Pour y oz. of formic acid or 3^ ozs. of 
acetic acid into 1 quart of water, and gradually bring 
into this mixture, stirring constantly, 4^ ozs. of so¬ 
dium peroxide. Allow the mixture to stand about 
one hour before use. It is used either directly or 
after potassium permanganate. Instead of this 
bleaching liquor, the following may also be advan¬ 
tageously used, especially for silk fabrics: Dissolve 
in 1 quart of soft or distilled water y oz. of epsom 
salt, then bring gradually into the solution, stirring 
constantly, 2 drachms of sodium peroxide, and finally 
add I y drachms of sulphuric acid. Determine'ac- 
curately by means of litmus paper the reaction of 
the fluid ; if too acid add a small quantity of sodium 


136 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

peroxide, or if too alkaline add a little acid until the 
fluid shows an entirely neutral reaction. Damp the 
stains with the hot liquor;- the latter may also be 
used stronger. 

Sodium peroxide is also used in washing, a suit¬ 
able quantity of it corresponding to the number of 
articles being added to the wash-water in the wash¬ 
ing-machine. 

With the exception of very obstinate dye stains, 
nearly all kinds of stains in clothes can be removed 
by the use of sodium peroxide. Care should be 
taken not to use too large a quantity of it, as other¬ 
wise the fibers of the fabrics may be weakened. On 
account of its greater content of active oxygen, 
sodium peroxide acts with greater intensity than 
oxygenol. Color stains are best removed, before 
bleaching, by means of hot hyraldite solution. 

Sodium peroxide soap. Beltzer * recently made 
public a method of preparing soap containing 
sodium peroxide, the production of which is based 
on the property of the peroxide for forming a stable 
dry mixture with anhydrides. The soap is made 
from acid castor oil, rosin, sodium carbonate and 
sodium silicate.. The strongly alkaline soap powder 
is then completely dried and thoroughly mixed with 
dry sodium carbonate and sodium peroxide in a 
rotary mixer, the mass being finally made into cakes 
in a hydraulic press. This soap is intended for tex¬ 
tile purposes, such as bleaching raw cotton, raw flax, 
ramie, jute, pelts and fur. 


- Chemisches Centralblatt, 1907, Band II, Seite 1871. 


WET CLEANING. 


PREVIOUS to wet cleaning or washing, it is import¬ 
ant to ascertain first the class of fibers of which the 
articles are made of. It is sometimes very difficult 
for the operator to determine the nature of a fabric 
and some directions for this are given in Section XI, 
“ Analysis of Textile Fabrics/’ 

An article made of wool is easy to clean or wash. 
But many fabrics are now used in the manufacture 
of ready-made clothing which are composed of a 
mixture of cotton and wool in varying proportions. 
Sometimes the two fibers are mingled together in the 
same thread, at other times there are interwoven 
threads of cotton and wool. Then again there are 
fancy fabrics in which part of the decorative effect is 
obtained by using silk, cotton, and wool threads in a 
manner which is detrimental to successful washing. 
The main object of the manufacturer of these fancy 
articles is to employ the cotton threads in preference 
to silk. The latter is employed only for the pur¬ 
pose of decoration. These goods offer great diffi¬ 
culties to the cleaner and should always be dry- 
cleaned. 

The wet process of cleaning garments is fairly 

( 137 ) 


138 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

straight forward work, but nevertheless great care is 
required, and the process has to be modified to suit 
the conditions. 

The garment cleaner should use only the best 
quality of oil soap made from olive oil, peanut oil or 
cocoanut oil. The chief merits of this class of soap 
are great solubility in water, it does not yellow white 
woolens or silk goods, and works better with hard 
water than other soaps. The perfect solubility in 
water of the soap is of vital importance; it means 
that it can be used cold and rinsed with cold water, 
but for this purpose warm rinses are advised. Cold 
soap liquors agree better with the colors of many 
fancy articles than hot liquors as the latter may 
cause the colors to bleed, and the colors may fix 
themselves on other parts of the garments. 

One of the greatest faults in the process of wet 
cleaning of colored goods is interruption of the 
work. This should not be tolerated when, as is often 
the case, the goods may be waiting to be centrifuged, 
or left for hours in the last rinse bath under the mis¬ 
taken idea that they are safe bv the time they have 
been hardened, and then left in a cold-water rinse. 
Many dyes which hold well in soap bleed in water, 
and the more the cleaner the water is, and spread to 
other parts of the same article, or even to other arti¬ 
cles in contact with them. It is anything but un¬ 
common for goods to come faultless from the soap 
washing, and to show all manner of dye stains after 
rinsing. Time and trouble are both saved by the 
goods when once their treatment is begun, being 
finished with the greatest possible expedition. 


WET CLEANING. I 39 

A very important point in wet cleaning is 

Water. It should be pure and soft and especially 
free from lime and iron. Soft river water and rain 
water are most preferable to use, as well as distilled 
water such as collects in large establishments where 
steam power is used. Turbid water holding solid 
substances in suspension must be clarified before use 
by filtering or settling. In practice impure water 
may be boiled with bran and the dirty scum formed 
skimmed off. Hard water containing lime and mag¬ 
nesia salts cannot be used for wet cleaning. These 
salts have the property of decomposing the soap 
which is used and forming with the fatty matter of 
the soap insoluble lime and magnesia soaps, which 
are precipitated out of the water in the form of curdy 
masses that settle on the fibers of the fabrics and 
often impart to them a spotty appearance. 

Water to be used for cleaning and bleaching should 
be free from iron. With the use of water containing 
iron the fibers can never be suitably cleaned and 
bleached, even the smallest content of iron impart¬ 
ing to the fabrics a yellowish tone; wool especially 
turns readily yellow. 

Purification and testing of water. A simple 
method for testing water as to its softness is as fol¬ 
lows : Dissolve a small quantity of good pure soap 
in alcohol and allow a few drops of the solution to 
fall into the water to be examined. If the water be¬ 
comes milky or turbid, it is hard ; if it remains clear 
or becomes only slightly turbid, it is soft. If soap 
chips added to boiling water dissolve completely in 


140 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

it, and a clear soap water is formed after cooling, the 
water may be used without hesitation ; if, however, 
after cooling the soap a curdy layer forms on the 
surface the water is hard. 

The mere appearance of water is of no value in 
judging it, since even crystal-clear water may to a 
high degree be saturated with gypsum. The purity 
of water also varies with the season of the year, the 
content of lime being greater in summer. 

For the determination of the presence of gypsum 
add to the water 2 or 3 drops of hydrochloric acid 
and [O drops of barium chloride solution ; the for¬ 
mation of a precipitate indicates the presence of 
gypsum. 

The presence of chlorine combinations is indicated 
if a precipitate is formed on adding to the water 2 to 
3 drops of nitric acid and the same quantity of nitrate 
of silver. 

To test for ammonia add to the boiling water 10 
drops of caustic potash solution ; if a piece of red 
litmus paper held over the boiling water turns blue, 
the water contains ammonia. 

Nitric acid in water is detected by evaporating the 
water to be tested to half its quantity and adding a 
few drops of sulphuric acid and a small quantity of 
indigo solution. The water contains nitrates if on 
heating it the blue color disappears. 

The presence of lime is tested by mixing the 
water with ammonia until it smells of the latter and 
then adding a little ammonium oxalate ; if a precipi¬ 
tate is formed the water contains lime. 


WET CLEANING. 


I 4 I 


To test for iron add to the water a few drops of 
nut-gall tincture ; if a blue-black precipitate is formed 
it is due to the presence of ferric oxide. 

A distinction is made between transient and per¬ 
manent hardness. If bicarbonate of lime predomi¬ 
nates, which by mere boiling separates as carbonate 
of lime, transient hardness is indicated. On the 
other hand, permanent hardness exists if sulphate of 
lime, which does not separate in boiling, predomi¬ 
nates. The degrees of hardness are accurately de¬ 
termined by means of a standard soap solution, but 
the test has to be made by an expert chemist. 

By simply allowing hard water to stand quietly for 
some time, precipitates are formed, which become 
more apparent on boiling. If after standing for a 
longer time the water deposits a brown skin on the 
sides of the vessel, it contains iron and is unsuitable. 
To test the hardness of water mix about a pint of it 
with tincture of soap of the druggist; the greater 
the content of lime and magnesia salts is, the more 
turbid the water will become. By boiling a sample 
of the water which has been found to be hard by the 
reaction with tincture of soap, over an alcohol lamp, 
it will become turbid and after cooling a precipitate 
of carbonate of lime and carbonate of magnesia 
settles on the bottom of the vessel By decanting 
the supernatant clear fluid and adding tincture of 
soap to it, further turbidity indicates the presence of 
gypsum. 

Hard water is, as a rule, softened by the addition 
of soda as follows: After adding the soda to the 


142 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

water, stir thoroughly and allow the whole to stand 
over night. The next morning take a sample in a 
clean, clear glass and add a little ammonium oxalate. 
If the water becomes milky, it has not been suffi¬ 
ciently softened and more soda has to be added. 

For the purification of water in which gypsum 
predominates use soda and caustic soda, the process 
being best effected at a boiling heat. Independent 
of alkali salts, water to be used for cleaning should 
not contain readily-soluble salts of the metals of the 
alkalies and of the metals of the alkaline earths. 
Thus, for instance, magnesium sulphate, magnesium 
chloride and aluminum sulphate should not be 
present. 

The purified water may be tested as to its avail¬ 
ability by dipping in it a small piece of red litmus 
paper; the latter should turn only very slightly blue. 
When mixed with ammonium oxalate solution, no 
turbidity should appear. 

Water containing iron may be purified by exposure 
to the air, the soluble ferrous iron combinations 
being oxidized by the oxygen of the air and con¬ 
verted into insoluble ferric iron salts. If chemicals 
are to be used, an addition of milk of lime is the 
cheapest and most effective means. 

For the purification of water which contains iron 
and lime, it is advisable to mix it first with lime solu¬ 
tion and then with soda solution, and allow the pre¬ 
cipitate which is formed to settle, which requires 
about three hours. The precipitate contains lime 
and ferric oxide. 


WET CLEANING. 


143 


In all doubtful cases it is, however, advisable to 
have the water tested by an expert chemist. 

Wet cleaning may, generally speaking, be divided 
into hand cleaning and machine cleaning. For hand 
cleaning a series of earthenware or wooden vessels of 
various sizes are required, as well as slate or marble 
slabs for hand-brushing. For machine cleaning the 
ordinary rotatory washing machine is employed. 
There are various well-known types of this machine 
and it is not necessary to enter into a detailed de¬ 
scription of them. For curtains and other articles 
liable to be torn an “ open-end ” washer is frequently 
used, as there is not the same tendency for the 
articles to become entangled during the rotation of 
the machine, and the cage may be unloaded without 
straining the goods. 

For rinsing blankets, etc., a series of wooden vats 
with a pair of squeezing rollers between each pair is 
employed, and for starching curtains, etc., a starch 
trough with a pair of rubber-covered rollers. 

Wet washing of men's garments. A properly 
washed suit of clothes must have a good appearance, 
be properly smoothed and ironed, must not smell of 
soap, dirt, or acid, have the proper feel of the ma¬ 
terial, its original color unimpaired, as also that of 
the lining, and show no pale seams and button-holes. 
The first thing to be done with this kind of washing 
is to sort it, putting on one side the garments to be 
wet-washed, and on the other those for which dry- 
cleaning is preferable. The sorting requires great 
experience to identify goods which would suffer in 


144 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

appearance or color by wet-washing, and not come 
out like new clothes. Dress clothes, colored waist¬ 
coats and most uniforms, must be chemically cleaned. 
Many other coats and even waistcoats, however, 
either on account of the way they are made or of the 
liability of their material to shrink and wrinkle, cannot 
be washed wet. 

The first thing to be done with the goods intended 
for wet-washing is to turn all the pockets, sleeves 
and trouser-legs inside out. It not unfrequently 
happens that clothes are received for cleaning with 
things in the pockets, which, when they get wet, 
will spoil not only the particular garment but others 
washed together with it. 

Dark garments are washed with soda, light ones 
with soap, except in the case of dark waistcoats, 
which are soap-washed for the sake of the lighter 
lining. The articles to be washed with soda are then 
placed in a lukewarm solution of soda, the dirtiest 
garments at the bottom. The sleeves and pockets 
are next turned, but trouser legs are left inside out, 
and the garments are brushed over on both sides 
with lukewarm soap water. If dark pocket linings 
are left hanging out over a light coat, the lining 
easily stains the material of the coat, especially in 
the washing machine. The soaping is continued till 
a permanent lather remains on the clothes. Neglect 
of this precaution will cause the finished washing to 
have a greasy and disagreeable feel. After the 
brushing over with soap, the goods are passed through 
a lukewarm, weak soda solution, and next through 


WET CLEANING. 


145 


cold water, and are then centrifuged. After centri- 
fuging, most of the soap and dirt will have been 
removed. The goods are then passed twice or three 
times through clean water and placed in cold water 
to be soured. This souring is a very important step 
in the operation, as it gives a fresh appearance and 
a good feel to the finished goods, and prevents any 
troubles with the linings due to the bleeding of dyes. 

The souring is done with acetic acid, the bath be¬ 
ing used lukewarm to make it penetrate the fabric 
more readily and more uniformly. According to the 
thickness of the cloth, the acid is added for each lot 
in one, two, or three portions. This again is a most 
important precaution. If with thick heavy fabrics 
all the acid is put in at once, it often happens that 
the finished goods still smell of soap and have a hard 
feel, while the faded parts of them stand out more 
clearly, and the seams look much lighter than the 
cloth. All this is avoided by adding the acid in 
portions. Garments with black cotton linings are 
soured last, as they always bleed a little in the pro¬ 
cess. Waistcoats with dark linings may also be 
placed, after washing and rinsing, in salt water to pre¬ 
vent the black dye from bleeding. After souring the 
goods are rinsed first in warm, and then in cold, water. 
If any acid is left in the garments they will be un¬ 
naturally stiff and have a hard, unpleasant feel. 
Thorough rinsing is especially necessary for light- 
colored goods in order to insure clearness of the 
colors, and it is advisable to treat them after souring 
for 10 minutes in a washing machine with clean, 
[O 


146 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

» 

lukewarm water, then pass them once more through 
water, and centrifuge. 

Cloaks, heavy overcoats for men and servants are 
washed with soap and are treated differently from 
suits. 

Gray uniform cloaks can rarely be cleaned with 
benzine, as the street dirt often adheres’ so strongly 
that only soaping will remove it. Very dirty places 
should be brushed over with benzine before the gar¬ 
ment is washed as a whole. The lining requires just 
as careful treatment as the cloth, especially in places 
particularly subject to be soiled, i. e ., which come 
into contact with a horse or with boot tops. 

Nearly all the articles just referred to are of heavy 
material from which it is difficult to rinse the soap 
completely. They are also too large and stiff, for 
the most part, to be easily wrung. They should 
therefore be rinsed first in a centrifugal and then 
passed through warm, and next through cold, water, 
and then again through the centrifugal, till the water 
comes clear from the machine. These goods are 
soured as already described, but in the case of heavy 
garments two persons are required to look after the 
wringing. The rinsing is done in three baths, the 
first two warm, the last cold. If a very soft feel is 
wanted, the final rinsing before centrifuging must be 
in soft water. 

Men’s dark clothes, like light ones, are soaked in 
soda solution, the darkest underneath and then 
brushed over with fresh soda solution. To prevent 
bleeding onto the linings the goods are now slightly 


WET CLEANING. 


147 


soured and rinsed once cold. The souring removes 
the disagreeable rancid smell often acquired from the 
body, and which if it occurs on a single article, would 
otherwise infect the whole batch. 

Many operators prefer washing men’s dark clothes 
with quillaia bark. Dark one-color articles such as 
brown, dark blue, dark green, olive and black, as 
well as all dark mixed goods which do not contain 
green or other delicate colors, are first soaked in a 
cold weak soda bath. Great care must however be 
taken that mixed goods containing bright colors, 
especially green and tobacco-brown, do not come in 
contact with soda or soap. By paying close atten¬ 
tion, the workman will soon learn which articles may 
be soaked and which cannot be thus treated. Arti¬ 
cles the colors of which are liable to run are not 
soaked at all, but simply moistened. 

The quillaia bark is scalded with hot water—2 lbs. 
of bark to 3 bucketfuls of water. The whole is then 
allowed to stand to clarify, only the clear, yellow 
liquid being used. Of this extract add about 2 to 3 
quarts to a bucketful of lukewarm water, or enough 
for the bath to froth well. The efficiency of the bath 
is increased by the addition of a whiskey glass full 
of ammonia. For green and green-mixed articles 
add to the bath a small quantity of acetic acid. For 
very delicate blue colors a few drops of sulphuric 
acid may be added to the bath without decreasing 
its efficiency. In this manner the baths may be so 
prepared that even the most sensitive colors are not 
impaired. 


148 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

After washing and rinsing the goods are passed 
through water soured with acetic acid. Articles 
which contain black cotton, as is frequently the case 
with mixed goods, are brought into salt water, as 
well as waistcoats. If the colors of the latter goods 
have already run, draw the articles quickly through 
a bath slightly soured with sulphuric acid, rinse well, 
and then place them in salt water. 

The quillaia bark may be scalded three times in 
succession before it has yielded all its washing sub¬ 
stance. 

Since by washing with soap or quillaia all stains 
cannot be removed, it is advisable to get rid of them 
as much as possible by suitable means before wash¬ 
ing. An excellent mixture for this purpose consists 
of 1 oz. each of acetic ether, ether, chloroform and 
carbon tetrachloride. Oil-paint stains are either 
softened with turpentine or fat, or removed with 
chloroform. Varnish, wagon grease and tar stains 
are also softened with turpentine; stearine, paraffine 
and resin with alcohol. 

If in men’s colored garments spots are found where 
the color has been destroyed by urine, moisten them 
with pure decoction of logwood, allow to dry, 
moisten once more, and after again drying, dab the 
spots with copperas solution; when dry, brush with 
a sharp brush. If the stains do not disappear by 
this treatment, moisten them with wine vinegar. 

Washing, ladies' garments. In many establish¬ 
ments ladies’ garments, no matter whether they are 
to be washed with soap or quillaia, are first chem- 


149 


WET CLEANING. 

** 

ically washed, but the articles intended for wet wash¬ 
ing are not passed through a fresh benzine bath. 
For dark articles, such as red-brown, brown, green,, 
blue and black garments, which cannot be subjected 
to soap washing, such treatment is indispensable. 
However, it can also be highly recommended for 
light-colored articles, as the dirt dissolves more 
readily in the subsequent soap-washing. If articles 
containing oil stains are only washed wet, the stains, 
which can rarely be entirely removed with soda or 
soap, appear again in a few days and become imme¬ 
diately perceptible by the adherence of dust. 

Colored ladies’ garments, for instance, with red, 
blue, green, brown, etc., are spread upon a table, 
brushed with dilute alcohol, patted dry with a piece 
of buckskin, and hung up on two hangers. 

The first qualification for the operator who has 
to deal with colored cotton garments is a knowledge 
of dyeing. No mistake is so e.asily made and no mis¬ 
take is so difficult to remedy as that involved in 
treating colored cottons without regard to the dyes 
they contain. An enormous variety of dyes is in 
current use on cotton articles. Many of them bleed 
even in cold water, and many do not bleed in the 
presence of soap. It is therefore essential to test 
doubtful articles with soap. A trial may be made 
with a corner or inside seam, or by cutting a small 
piece from the band, and after washing and drying 
compare it with the garment. If the color has faded 
or become duller, it is best to chemically clean the 
garment. However, generally speaking, cotton 


150 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


articles do not become sufficiently clean by chemical 
cleaning. 

It should also be borne in mind that when a fabric 
is parti-colored, even if there are only two or three 
different hues, that at least one of the dyes used is 
almost certain to loose. In this case the general 
appearance of the goods must be considered. If 
the prevailing colors are dark, they must be treated 
with a lukewarm, but strong, lye of quillaia, to which 
it is advisable to add a little ammonia, especially 
when there is black in the pattern. It must be re¬ 
membered that the detergent power of quillaia is far 
greater than that of soap, which partly compensates 
for the difference in price, and makes it worth while 
to use the extract for cleaning expensive goods where 
a higher price for washing can be charged. 

Wash-fast garments are placed upon a table, and 
the dirty places, especially the hem-lining which is 
frequently soiled with street dirt, thoroughly brushed 
with cold soap water. * They are then washed suc¬ 
cessively in two cold soap baths which should well 
lather, next rinsed and soured. 

For cotton garments which will not stand washing 
with soap, the following process may be used to ad¬ 
vantage: Scald a few pounds of wheat bran with 
boiling water, allow to stand and cool to ioo° F.; 
then stir thoroughly and pass the whole through a 
hair-sieve. In this slippery milky liquor wash the 
articles either with the hand or upon the wash-board, 
finally rinse, centrifuge and hang up to dry. Fine 
black and white checkered cotton garments may in 


WET CLEANING. 


151 

this, manner be successfully cleaned, as well as all 
articles with delicate colors, the most sensitive colors 
being in no way injured. The colors do not bleed, 
since such bran extract does not contain any solvent 
substances but much gluten, in consequence of which 
articles thus cleaned do not require further finish. 
Rapid drying is advisable. 

A similar method is as follows: Bring quite hot 
water into a copper kettle and add wheat bran in the 
proportion of of the weight of the articles to be 
cleaned. Let the whole draw for 5 minutes, then 
boil for 10 minutes, allow to cool, then enter the 
articles and bring slowly to the boiling point, work¬ 
ing the articles constantly. Then allow to cool 
slowly to 77 0 F„ next wash the articles thoroughly, 
and rinse twice. Cotton articles thus treated turn 
out perfectly clean, and the colors retain their orig¬ 
inal freshness. 

The colors of fabrics containing white silk together 
with black cotton are very apt to run ; this is pre¬ 
vented and removed by placing the articles, imme¬ 
diately after washing and rinsing, in salt water for one 
to two hours, then at once starching, centrifuging and 
quickly drying. Such articles may be washed with 
soap or quillaia, or wheat bran, according to the 
degree of dirt; wheat bran, however, being always 
the safest agent. 

Corsets are soaked in a strong soap bath, brushed 
with ammonia or soda lye, rinsed, passed through a 
bath slightly soured with hydrochloric acid, again 
rinsed, and centrifuged. 


152 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Ladies' half-wool and wool garments are, as a rule, 
wash-fast. However, on account of their shape, 
some of them cannot be wet-washed, but have to be 
dry-cleaned and freed from stains, while the colors 
of others will not stand soap-washing, though the 
shape of the garments might permit it. When it 
comes to mixed colors, either woven or printed, one 
of the colors is sure not to be fast. Such pieces 
should first be chemically cleaned, and then finished 
in a cold solution of quillaia bark (about 1 or 2 
quarts to a bucketful of soft water). They are then 
rinsed and soured with acetic acid. Dark blue and 
dark green garments are treated in the same manner, 
a few drops of acetic acid being, in the latter case, 
added to the quillaia solution. A preparatory chem¬ 
ical treatment will also be necessary for garments 
suitable for wet-washing, but which contain a num¬ 
ber of grease or other fatty stains. After the ben¬ 
zine bath, these pieces take wet treatment very well. 

Wool and half-wool stuffs are best washed upon a 
table with a wood or slate plate. It is an old rule 
that soapsuds used on woolens should not be too 
strong nor too hot. Only hand-warm, and even less, 
is the proper temperature, and if the suds are light 
and foamy, the bath will be of sufficient strength. 
A proper brush is another matter of importance, for 
nothing is more foolish than to apply a coarse-fibered 
brush to a delicate costly fabric. 

Black and white checks in wool and part wool 
should, before being wet-cleaned, be taken through 
a bath consisting of pure water and a little common 


WET CLEANING. I 5 3 

salt. After being dried they are washed in the 
usual manner. After rinsing allow them to remain 
for a short time in a solution of common salt, and 
then dry quickly in the air. 

Rinsing plays a most important part in wet-clean¬ 
ing. Four baths are usually necessary to insure a 
proper rinsing. The first lukewarm, with a slight 
addition of soda; the second and third, plain warm 
water. After being thoroughly rinsed in these three 
baths, the garments should for some time remain 
immersed in the last cold bath. If white and light- 
colored pieces have not been sufficiently rinsed and 
still retain some soap, they will be marked with 
yellowish streaks after they have dried. 

To freshen up the colors which generally fade 
a little under the soap process, a warm water bath 
should be prepared in a clean wooden vessel and 
enough pure sulphuric acid slowly added, while con¬ 
stantly stirring, to give the bath a faint acid flavor. 
All but black pieces should be taken through this 
bath, then rinsed and centrifuged. Black articles 
require a bath of common salt. 

Garments made of unweighted silk are very dur¬ 
able and present no difficulties if proper care be 
taken. Cheap weighted silks, however, often cause 
trouble even as early as the second washing. They 
lose their color and tear like paper. When silk is 
weighted with tin it is absolutely necessary to wash 
it with perfectly neutral soap as it is highly sensitive 
even to the least traces of alkali, and no guarantee 
can be given in the case of silks which have previ- 


154 DRY cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 


ous'ly been washed elsewhere. The tin loading dis¬ 
solves in hot soap lye and forms an insoluble thin 
soap, which acts severely on the fibre by mechanical 
abrasion during the washing wherein it is powerfully 
assisted by any dust that may be present. Hence, 
all silk must be freed from dust before washing, and 
that by the hand, as the use of a stick will cause too 
much friction between the dust and the fabric. 
Cheap light-colored silks must never be washed with 
those of darker colors, or the latter will almost surely 
bleed on to them. The stains so caused are very 
difficult to remove, especially as the -fabric is gen¬ 
erally very fragile. 

All artificial silks, and particularly such as are 
weighted must be washed in cold water, and with 
absolutely neutral soap. Careful washing if these 
conditions are rigidly observed, will do very little, 
if any, harm. As the soap must be neutral the use 
of soda is obviously inadmissible. The goods must 
have a good soaking in the cold soap, best overnight, 
and should never be rubbed, but stirred about sharply 
until the dirt is loosened and removed. It is an ex¬ 
cellent plan to use gall soap as well as ordinary soap, 
say 2 lb. of gall soap to every 4 lbs. of the other. 
The soap should be dissolved separately in warm 
water before adding it to the bath of cold water, and 
the silks put fn immediately afterwards. On lifting 
the goods are drained as much as possible, as wring¬ 
ing is to be deprecated, and then rinsed, drained 
again, and dried. This final process must be con¬ 
ducted with great care and at a very moderate tern- 


WET CLEANING. 


*55 


perature. If the warm air passes through the drying 
room in sufficient volume the drying will not be too 
slow. Hot drying makes tin-weighted silk as stiff 
as a board and the evil cannot be remedied by 
ironing. 

Dark-colored garments are never so tender as 
heavily loaded cheap silks, and the chief risk during 
washing is stripping of the color. After dusting, the 
garments are soaked in clean warm soft water in 
which borax has been dissolved to the amount of 
about I lb. for every 12 gallons of water. Borax is 
chosen because it entails less danger to any loose 
dyes that may be present than most other substances. 
The washing is done with gall soap, previously dis¬ 
solved separately and added to the water before the 
goods are entered. There is no objection to wash¬ 
ing in the ordinary washing machine, but the tem¬ 
perature must not exceed 75 0 F. The washed 
goods are drained, lightly wrung, and the color is 
brightened in a vinegar bath made by diluting strong 
vinegar with about 60 times its volume of water. 
This bath also serves as a rinse and is used cold. 

A good plan for protecting light-colored silks 
from stripping is to steep them in sour milk and soft 
water, first soaping any stains or very dirty places. 
After two or three hours soaking the goods are 
washed with a liquor prepared by dissolving about 
1 lb. of Marseilles soap and 5 ozs. of borax in 1 gal¬ 
lon of sour miik. 

Perspiration stains under the arm pits, if they re¬ 
sist soaping, may be removed by the cautious local 
use of sodium perborate, a powerful stripping agent, 


156 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

After washing, the silks are freed from the sour 
milk by three or four good, rinses in soft lukewarm 
water. It is important that no trace of the milk 
should remain. If it is then found that the color 
has paled the goods are re-dyed. A small quantity 
of a suitable dye is placed in a gauze bag and hung 
in the water. When sufficient has dissolved, the 
goods are entered. After a few minutes lying fully 
spread out in the dye-bath they are lifted, drained, 
rinsed with cold water and dried at a moderate heat 
as above explained. If only a little re-dyeing is re¬ 
quired, the goods are left in the dye for a cor¬ 
respondingly short period, or the rinse water used to 
remove the milk may be slightly dyed. The follow¬ 
ing are one or two specially useful dyes: Brilliant 
Geranine, Benzo Orange S. and Brilliant Lanafuch- 
sine. The last is fast to light, washing and stoving, 
and is used in a soap bath broken with sulphuric 
acid. 

If the shape of raw-silk garments permits, they 
are, after removal of stains, washed quite warm, 
rinsed and soured hot in hydrochloric acid. 

With luster and barege garments great care has to 
be taken. While they stand wet washing, they fre¬ 
quently become very curly and shrink, so that they 
cannot be again smoothed by ironing. Such gar¬ 
ments should not be washed on the wash-board, but 
simply brushed and treated entirely cold, and also 
cold starched. 

If garments trimmed with black velvet are wet- 
washed like white articles, they should, after wash- 


WET CLEANING. 


157 


ing, be only drawn through acetic acid, or not at all 
soured, and starched. If. however, the fabric re¬ 
quires starching, the velvet, when the garment is dry, 
should be steamed and treated with a sharp brush. 
Finally, to restore luster and softness, rub the velvet 
with a small rag moistened with olive oil. This, of 
course, has to be done very carefully so as not to 
touch the fabric and soil it. 

Wet-washing wJiite wool and white silk fabrics. 
Previous to washing white wool and white silk arti¬ 
cles, such as cloths, woolen covers, jackets, silk 
shawls, etc., remove all metallic hooks and buttons. 
Then soak the articles for half an hour in a luke¬ 
warm bath containing about ]/ 2 lb. of soda in solu¬ 
tion. Next prepare two baths with soap which 
should lather well, and successively wash the goods 
in them. Washing is effected by squeezing below 
the surface of the bath the smaller articles such as 
fichus, etc., and shaking them ; they should never be 
rubbed between the hands. Larger articles, such 
as blankets, etc., are washed either upon the wash 
board or in the washing machine. Good castile soap 
should be preferably used. The suds should only 
be lukewarm and never allowed to get too hot or too 
cold. To the last soap bath some blue is, as a rule, 
added. For this purpose dissolve in an earthenware 
vessel 2 to 4 ozs. of indigo carmine and add a few 
drops of the solution to the bath. After having 
passed through the last soap bath, the articles are 
wrung out or centrifuged, and brought into the sul¬ 
phuring chamber. The latter should not be kept 


158 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


too warm as otherwise the articles become too dry 
and cannot be properly shaped. 

A suitable bleaching chamber for woolens should 
have walls, and floor of brick-work set in cement, 
and be ceiled with planks thickly covered outside with 
felt. Wooden pegs should be used for the ceiling 
instead of iron nails to prevent all chance of rusty 
water dripping on the goods to be bleached and 
staining them. Just below the ceiling laths cross 
the chamber, being supported on wall brackets and 
thickly tinned hooks are screwed into the under¬ 
side of the laths for suspending the articles to be 
bleached. They are so placed that when the goods 
are hung upon them, the sulphurous acid gets all 
around each article. Hence the hooks have to be 
spaced according to the size of the articles, some 
laths being reserved for large, and others for smaller, 
ones. From garments to be bleached, brass hooks 
and eyes and pins have to be removed before bring¬ 
ing them into the chamber. 

When all the goods are hungup sulphur is set fire 
to in an iron pan and put into the chamber. The 
air-tight door of the chamber is then closed, and the 
goods are left overnight. It is usual to burn half an 
ounce of roll-sulphur for every 10 cubic feet of the 
capacity of the chamber. The oxygen in 10 cubic 
feet of air will burn more sulphur than this, but if 
the quantity given above is much exceeded solid 
sulphur is apt to be sublimed on to the goods, and 
its removal is a matter of great difficulty. 

Small pale yellow sulphur stains can be readily re- 


WET CLEANING. 


159 


moved from the articles while still moist, by gentle 
rubbing with solution of oxalic acid in water; dark, 
nearly brown stains can, however, be scarcely re¬ 
moved. If, in sulphuring, .the articles turn yellow, 
and the sulphur is not completely consumed, spon¬ 
taneous renewal of air is lacking. 

Another method is as follows : Do not blue after 
washing but only when the articles have ,been sul¬ 
phured. Then rinse them in lukewarm water and 
next in a warm bath to which a few drops of indigo 
carmine solution and cochineal decoction have been 
added. 

White woolen blankets with blue or red borders 
can be sulphured without damage to the colors and 
then treated like other white articles. 

A more convenient, though somewhat more ex¬ 
pensive, bleaching process is that with potassium 
permanganate* and sulphurous acid. For this pur¬ 
pose fill an earthenware vessel with cold water and 
dissolve in it about 1 oz. of potassium permanganate. 
Move the articles in the solution for about 10 min¬ 
utes so that they show a brown appearance ; then 
press them out thoroughly and bring them into 
another earthenware vessel containing a fresh water 
bath with about 2 quarts of sulphurous acid. In this 
bath the articles should remain overnight. The two 
baths should be well covered to preserve them for 
further use. The next morning the articles are taken 
from the sulphurous acid bath, passed rapidly to a 
bath soured with sulphuric acid and to which a few 
drops of methyl violet 6 B have been added, sufficient 


l 60 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

to give the bath a pale green color. The articles are 
finally rinsed and centrifuged. 

Bleaching white wool or silk articles with peroxides. 
When the articles <have been washed in the above- 
described manner, they are passed for the removal 
of soap through two lukewarm baths and thoroughly 
squeezed out. Prepare in an earthenware vessel a 
cold water bath containing one part hydrogen per¬ 
oxide for every 15 parts of water. Place the goods 
in the bath and allow them to remain in it for one- 
half to one hour, according to requirement, taking 
care that every article is below the surface of the 
bath so as to be thoroughly saturated. Cover the 
bath. When taking the articles from the bath 
squeeze them superficially and hang them in a room 
through which a current of air passes and the tem¬ 
perature of which does not exceed 68° F\ The 
bleaching process takes place together with evapor¬ 
ation. The saturated articles may also be exposed 
to the direct rays of the sun, whereby the process is 
accelerated. 

Since hydrogen peroxide is for the sake of dur¬ 
ability brought into commerce slightly acidulated, 
the bleaching bath must, before use, be neutralized 
by the addition of a few drops of ammonia. The 
baths should be well covered for future use, and 
brought up to the required strength by the addition 
of fresh hydrogen peroxide. The latter should be 
kept in well-closed vessels in a cool place. 

Bleaching white woolen blankets , garments , etc. 
The articles, thoroughly freed from dirt and other 


WET CLEANING. 


161 


impurities by wet washing, are centrifuged and then 
bleached. For this purpose old tubs which are not 
thoroughly clean should never be used; even with 
new tubs it is advisable—and this applies to all wood 
utensils used—to bleach them before use with a one- 
half per cent, hydrogen peroxide solution to with¬ 
draw the coloring matter contained in the wood. 
Water and acids must be free from iron ; even water, 
otherwise suitable, which has stood for some time in 
an iron conduit, may contain iron and be thereby 
rendered unfit for use. Fill a wooden tub with cold, 
pure, soft water, add for every io parts of water one 
part hydrogen peroxide, as well as a small quantity 
of ammonia, stir thoroughly, introduce the articles 
and allow them to remain until they have acquired 
the desired tone of purity. If after bleaching with 
hydrogen peroxide the articles are not to be blued, 
it is advisable to dry them in the sun in order to 
complete the bleaching process. Bluing, if required, 
is effected in a fresh, cold, or at the utmost, luke¬ 
warm bath with aniline blue or methyl violet. The 
goods are then immediately centrifuged and dried. 
It is best, if possible, to dry such articles in the open 
air in the shade; in drying in the drying chamber, 
care should be taken to do it slowly at a low tem¬ 
perature and with good ventilation. 

Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent bleaching 
agent, but its bad keeping properties restrict its use- 
fulness. As previously mentioned, the commercial 
article is, as a rule, slightly acidulated, such mineral 
acids as hydrochloric and sulphuric, and one or two 


162 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


strong organic acids, especially acetic, having been 
found efficient in increasing its durability. Addition 
of one of these makes even weak solutions of hydro¬ 
gen peroxide keep fairly well. For many purposes, 
however, the use of acids with peroxide is objection¬ 
able, and several other efficient preservatives have 
been discovered. The chief of these are benzoic 
acid, phenacetine, and lactophenine. A solution of 
hydrogen peroxide of 3 per cent, strength decom¬ 
poses so spontaneously at the ordinary temperature 
that it loses half its strength in from one week to a 
fortnight, according to the weather. When mixed 
with from one-half to a whole gramme of benzoic 
acid to the quart, again according to the weather, the 
peroxide will still have six-sevenths of its original 
strength after the lapse of a month. Phenacetine 
and lactophenine have a still more powerful preserv¬ 
ative action. From \ to ^ of a gramme of them is 
as effectual as a gramme of benzoic acid. Even with 
yV of a gramme per quart, of either phenacetine or 
lactophenine, half the original strength of the per¬ 
oxide often remains after the lapse of a month. 
Having regard both to efficiency and to economy, 
phenacetine is the best preservative for hydrogen 
peroxide, and in no way interferes with its industrial 
action. 

As a substitute for the not very constant hydrogen 
peroxide, sodium peroxide may be recommended as 
a bleaching agent. Its use for white silk, especially 
ribbons, is as follows: Rub the silk gently with a 
medium hard brush and hand-warm soap solution, so 


WET CLEANING. 


163 


that the threads of the tissue are not pushed together. 
Then rinse throughly in water of 86° to ioo° F. 
and bring the silk into the sodium peroxide bath. 
For the latter use an enameled vessel, copper being 
unsuitable for the purpose, provided with a second 
perforated bottom. The vessel should be of suitable 
size, as the silk must not be pressed together, and 
should have plenty of room. Dissolve in 10 quarts 
of cold distilled or condensed water 3^ ozs. of ep- 
som salt, add carefully and slowly, stirring constantly, 
about 1 oz. sodium peroxide, and finally, also slowly, 
about 1 y ozs. sulphuric acid. After adding the 
sulphuric acid, the bath should be only slightly alka¬ 
line. It is best to proceed by adding first sufficient 
acid to render the bath slightly acid, i. e ., that blue 
litmus paper is just colored red; then again enough 
sodium peroxide for the bath to show a slight alka¬ 
line reaction, i. e ., that red litmus paper is just col¬ 
ored blue. When the silk has been placed in the 
slightly alkaline bath, the latter is in the course of an 
hour heated to between 176° and 212° F., which is 
best effected by means of a gas or petroleum flame. 
Steam can only be recommended when it can be in¬ 
directly introduced. Direct firing with coal or wood 
is not suitable because heating cannot be properly 
regulated. Allow the silk to remain three to four 
hours in the bath at 176° F., handling it occasionally 
and taking care that it is always covered by the 
bleaching bath. The silk when taken from the 
bleaching bath is passed through a lukewam bath 
slightly soured with sulphuric acid, and to which, if 


164 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

required, a trace of a blue coloring matter has 
been added. After bluing pass the goods, accord¬ 
ing to requirement, through a weaker or stronger 
gelatine bath, to which some acetic acid has been 
added, centrifuge, and iron at once. It may happen 
that the bleaching bath has been somewhat too alka¬ 
line. In this case it bleaches more rapidly and 
better, but the silk loses its luster. To restore the 
luster rinse the goods very thoroughly after the 
souring, then bring them into a well-lathering cas- 
tile soap bath, boil for 15 minutes, rinse three times 
in water of 86° to ioo° F., brighten with acetic acid, 
and blue. 

For silk articles the sodium peroxide bath may 
be somewhat more concentrated than for woolens. 
After bleaching, pass the articles through a water- 
bath, then through a bath consisting of alcohol and 
a small quantity of glycerin, ard dry at a low tem¬ 
perature up to 77 0 F. 

The use of sodium peroxide is of special advan¬ 
tage when sufficient bleaching cannot be effected 
with sulphurous acid. For bleaching articles which 
have turned very yellow, the two processes may be 
combined. 

For garments with wool, silk and cotton, the fol¬ 
lowing composition of a bleaching bath may be 
recommended: Dissolve for every too quarts of 
cold water, 3 lbs. epsom salt, 6 ozs. sulphuric acid, 
and add, with constant stirring, 1 lb. sodium peroxide. 

Bleaching of jute. For this purpose the following 
method has been recommended: Bring the jute into 


WET CLEANING. 


16$ 


a sulphuric acid bath of the usual strength, then 
rinse thoroughly and bleach by means of chloride of 
lime. For bleaching several chloride baths of differ¬ 
ent strengths are used, commencing with the strong¬ 
est bath and reducing the degrees of chloride of 
lime solution from bath to bath until the jute is 
white. On the other hand, it is asserted that jute 
yarn does not become white by bleaching with 
chloride of lime, but at the best only acquires a 
reddish cream color. For this reason bleaching 
with potassium permanganate is recommended. The 
jute fiber is in this case cleaned with soda or water- 
glass at a temperature of 148° to 158° F.; it is then 
passed through a bath of potassium permanganate, 
and the bistre of manganese is finally detached by 
means of sulphurous acid. Jute is very sensitive, 
and should, for the purpose of cleaning, be only 
treated with gently acting alkaline agents or very 
weak alkaline lyes. 

The following method may also be recommended : 
Soak the jute for 2 hours in a bath containing 3 ^ oz. 
of waterglass per gallon of water, maintaining the 
bath at a temperature of 140° F.; then rinse, and 
bleach at 86° F. in alkaline sodium chloride solution 
which contains about 1 per cent, of chlorine. When 
taken from the latter bath, rinse thoroughly, sour in 
a cold hydrochloric acid bath at to Be., add a 
small quantity of sulphurous acid, and after half an 
hour rinse thoroughly. 

Electric bleaching. By electric bleaching is under¬ 
stood bleaching with a substitute for bleaching pow- 


166 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

der, prepared by an electric process, but used in the 
same way as the ordinary preparation. The use of 
ordinary bleaching powder is connected with many 
drawbacks, and to overcome these attempts were 
made to replace this substance by some other bleach¬ 
ing agent. These attempts resulted in the produc¬ 
tion of an electrolytic bleaching liquor, analogous in 
composition to bleaching powder, except that com- 


Fig. ii. 



Electric bleaching apparatus. 


pletely soluble sodium compounds were present in 
place of the lime compounds that always left an in¬ 
soluble residue. 

The most important constituent of bleaching pow¬ 
der is calcium hypochlorite, and in addition the 
compounds Cl—Ca—OC1, calcium hydroxide and 
calcium chloride are present. The electrolytic 




















































WET CLEANING. 


167 


bleaching liquor, which represents a perfectly clear 
fluid, contains, on the other hand, sodium hypo¬ 
chlorite, NaOCl. In dissolving bleaching powder a 
residue is obtained, and the bleaching liquor produced 
always shows, even after careful settlement in the air, 
turbidity due to particles of lime. Bleaching liquor 
made by the electrolysis of sodium chloride does not 
show this defect, as it does not contain lime. Vari¬ 
ous forms of apparatus have been devised for the 


Fig. 12. 



Electrolyser. 


electrolysis of salt solutions. Figs. 11 and 12 show 
Haas and Oettel’s apparatus, specially designed for 
cleaning establishments, which appears to be the most 
satisfactory and most extensively employed. With 
110 volts continuous current taken direct off an elec¬ 
tric lighting circuit, and with the use of about 55 lbs. 
of salt, the liquor for bleaching about 11,000 lbs. of 
dry weight of wash can be prepared without the em¬ 
ployment of expensive pumps and without cooling 
contrivance. 






















1 68 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


The apparatus Fig. II, consists of a well-pitched 
wooden vat for dissolving the salt. The vat is pro¬ 
vided with a stirring apparatus and tap for discharg¬ 
ing the salt solution or brine into the cell. The cell 
of the electrolyser, Fig. 12, is a stoneware vat, in 
which the brine is subjected to the action of the elec¬ 
tric current between electrodes of a graphitoid ma¬ 
terial which is much cheaper than platinum, but, 
nevertheless, more resistant. The chief aim is to 
prepare from the brine a clear and powerful bleach¬ 
ing liquor consisting chiefly of sodium hypochlorite. 

Working ten hours daily the electrodes require 
renewing only once in ij 4 years. The connecting 
contacts are made of a non-oxidizing metal and the 
discharge-taps and bottom-valves of the vessels, of 
stoneware, so that all portions of the apparatus are 
at the utmost protected from the action of chlorine. 

For the preparation of the salt solution or brine 
about half a pound of salt (rock salt) to each gallon 
of water is dissolved by stirring. The solution is 
allowed to settle for about one hour, when it is 
drawn off and passed through the electrolyser at the 
rate of from io to 13 gallons per hour. The clear 
bleaching liquor thus produced contains about 3 
grammes of free chlorine per quart and is drawn off 
into a collecting tank of stoneware. 

Washing light-colored wool and silk articles. 
Cream-colored, rose-colored, and pale blue articles 
are carefully washed with soap. The first two colors 
are carefully brightened by redyeing, while the latter 
color is revived by means of a sulphuric acid bath. 


WET CLEANING. 


169 


Articles with dark colors are washed with quillaia de¬ 
coction with the addition of a small quantity of acetic 
acid, rinsed, and passed through a bath strongly 
soured with acetic acid. This, of course, applies 
only to smaller articles. 

Woolen undergarments are washed in a lukewarm 
soap bath and rinsed in lukewarm water. When 
washing in the machine add some ammonia to the 
soap bath. Rinse in two or three waters and 
immediately centrifuge. When taken from the cen¬ 
trifugal draw them smooth and stretch them gently 
in every direction before drying. 

Flannel undershirts, etc., may also be soaked in 
lukewarm water, then washed in lukewarm soap suds, 
rinsed, and dried; or wash them in milk-warm suds 
of soft soap, centrifuge, and dry. Flannels thus 
treated are said to remain soft, and do not shrink. 

White cloth caps and felt hats are cleaned in the 
most simple manner by scattering plaster of Paris or 
potato-flower over them and brushing it off, repeat¬ 
ing the operation if required. 

Or , rub the soiled places by means of a woolen 
rag with a mixture of alcohol and a little common 
salt, and dry with a linen cloth. 

White woolen , knit or woven articles , such as 
sweaters etc., are washed in neutral soap solution 
containing borax, and rinsed in dilute ammonia. 

White silk handkerchiefs are washed in a luke¬ 
warm bath of castile soap until sufficiently clean; 
they are then rinsed in lukewarm water, blued, 
squeezed out and wrapped in linen cloths in which 


170 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

they remain until sufficiently dry to allow of being 
ironed. The soap bath should be neutral and lather 
well; some ammonia may also be added. 

White silk stockings are washed in a warm soap 
bath and rinsed in fresh water; if necessary, they may 
be sulphured and blued. An excellent plan is to 
dry them, if possible, upon forms and, while still 
moist, smooth them with a glass polisher. 

Colored silk cloths are best washed with decoction 
of quillaia bark instead of soap. 

Washing silk gloves. Wash the gloves in a bath 
of white soap at 122 0 F. and, if necessary, repeat 
washing in a fresh soap bath ; then rinse carefully, 
first in warm water, and then in several cold waters. 
An addition of alcohol is also recommended. After 
washing, dry the gloves as much as possible by pres¬ 
sing between linen cloths, apply a dressing of fish- 
glue solution, iron, and brush in the direction of the 
threads to impart luster. 

Colored silk gloves are cleaned with benzine, since 
by this treatment the colors run least. Cleaning 
with soap should be done as quickly as possible, to 
prevent the colors from being too strongly attacked 
by the soap. Rinse carefully in acidulated waters 
and remove the water as quickly as possible, by 
pressing the gloves between cloths. 

Cleaning fine colored embroideries. Fine silk em¬ 
broideries and all other kinds which will not stand 
wet-cleaning, have to be chemically cleaned. Those 
which can be wet-cleaned are carefully washed in a 
solution of castile soap. Coffee and other stains, if 


WET CLEANING. 


I/I 

present, are carefully removed with eau de Javelle. 
It should, however, be borne in mind that by the 
action of chloride of lime a red color may acquire a 
dull tone, and silk embroideries or fine lace insertions 
in a cover may also suffer thereby ; hence the greatest 
care should be exercised. White silk, as is well 
known, turns yellow by the action of chlorine. 
Finally rinse in cold water, pass the articles through 
an acetic acid bath, and dry between linen cloths. 
A small quantity of turpentine may also be added to 
the soap bath. To prevent the colors from running, 
quick work is imperative. Should, in washing col¬ 
ored embroideries, the colors bleed very much and 
stain the white portion, the trouble may possibly be 
removed by passing the article through lukewarm 
water to which a little eau de Javelle has been added. 
Should, however, the stains not disappear by this 
treatment, the article should, without being previ¬ 
ously rinsed, be bleached by exposure to the air. 
Afterwards it is rinsed, soured, wrapped in a cloth, 
centrifuged, and ironed while wet. 

Eau de Javelle is prepared as follows: Stir 2 lbs. 
of dry chloride of lime in an earthenware vessel with 
water to a thick paste; dissolve 4 lbs. of crystallized 
soda in 10 quarts of water, and slowly add this solu¬ 
tion, stirring constantly, to the chloride of lime paste. 
Allow the mixture to settle and use the clear super¬ 
natant fluid. It should be well corked and kept 
in a dark place. Another formula is as follows: To 
a solution of 1 lb. of chloride of lime add I lb. of 
ammonia-soda, allow to settle and use the clear 
supernatant fluid. 


172 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

When colored wool and silk embroideries are to 
be wet-cleaned, the chief care is that the colors do not 
run. For this purpose prepare a solution of about 
1 part by weight of castile soap for every 500 parts 
by weight of water. The use of a soap too alkaline, 
as well as an addition of soda, is to be carefully 
avoided. With this soap solution moisten a sufficient 
quantity of bran so that the entire mass is moist, but 
not wet enough to drip. Place the bran about ]/■3 
inch deep upon the embroidery spread out on a table, 
allow it to remain for about 10 minutes, then remove 
it, and rub any remaining soiled places with dry bran. 
If necessary, repeat the operation. Should the colors 
have become dull, they may be revived by moisten¬ 
ing a fresh supply of bran with oxalic acid solution— 
y.\ oz. of acid in 1 quart of water—and apply as 
before. After removing the bran the articles should 
not be dried at too high a temperature, but should 
be freed from moisture by placing them between 
cloths. They are finally treated with a soft brush.. 

The washing of small table covers with colored 
embroidery often causes the cleaner much trouble, 
especially when the colors have already run. The 
best way to proceed is as follows: Place the article 
smoothly upon the table and scrub both sides with 
cold soap suds; rinse quickly, draw through a weak 
sulphuric acid bath, rinse again, roll up between two 
clean and dry white linen cloths, and centrifuge. 
Should the colors of the embroidery be very deli¬ 
cate, the hydro-extractor should first be set in motion 
and the article rolled in the cloths be thrown in while 


WET CLEANING. 


173 


the machine is running.' Ladies’ silk shawls and 
scarfs should be treated in the same manner. When 
the colors have already run previous to washing, 
handle the articles in hot soap suds—without allow¬ 
ing them to stand—until the color-stains are ex¬ 
tracted. Should this not produce the desired effect, 
add a small quantity of chlorine to the soap suds, 
rinse, sour, and centrifuge as above; the colors will 
be revived by the acid. 

Should there be ladies’ scarfs with variegated 
colors among the pieces, it is best to place them im¬ 
mediately upon leaving the hydro-extractor in starch 
powder or talcum, and brush them when dry. 

A large German establishment where many dozens 
of antimacassars, cushion-covers, etc., are received 
and washed every week, has adopted the following 
plan for cleaning colored embroideries on a white or 
light-colored fabric. These embroideries which are 
usually executed in silk or mercerized cotton are 
often received in a very dirty condition and stained 
with grease, wine, coffee, etc. 

The goods are first dry-washed to remove grease. 
The benzine affects very few colors, there being only 
a few reds which are soluble in that liquid. These 
are recognized by a preliminary test, and goods con¬ 
taining them must be treated by themselves. 

• When the goods washed with benzine are nearly 
dry they are sorted into various grades of dirtiness. 
Two soap baths are then prepared of neutral grain 
soap, one warm, the other cold, and both lathering 
well. The goods are first soaked in the cold soap 


174 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

bath, and then spread out on a board without wring¬ 
ing, and brushed over with some of the warm soap 
bath. The goods are then passed through a clean 
warm soap bath and rinsed three times, twice with 
warm, and finally with cold, water. A passage 
through cold weak acetic acid is then given to liven 
the colors, and the goods are dried. 

If any bleeding takes place during the brushing, 
transfer to the clean warm soap bath as quickly as 
possible, handle briskly in it for a few minutes, rinse 
thoroughly but with all expedition, and dry imme¬ 
diately after the acetic acid bath. If the warm soap 
bath will not remove the color which has bled 
on to the ground, a boiling bath must be tried, but 
it must be very weak and its action should not 
be unduly prolonged. If this treatment also fails 
try a very weak bath of chloride of lime, pour in very 
dilute sulphuric acid, rinse thoroughly, liven, and 
dry. Much depends upon speed, and if these var¬ 
ious processes have to be gone through in succes¬ 
sion, the need of the most rapid working is all the 
more urgent. Bleaching powder must, however, not 
be used with silk embroideries as it turns them 
yellow. 

If there are any stains left in the washed goods 
they will probably be due to the dye or to iron. 
These are removed by local treatment, the one sort 
with chloride of lime, the other with oxalic acid. 
The stain is dabbed with the solution and the place 
is carefully freed from it after the stain has disap¬ 
peared by repeated applications of clean water. 


WET CLEANING. 


175 


Care must be taken that'the solutions are not too 
strong, and particularly that the bleaching solution 
contains no undissolved particles as they will cause 
holes. 

Special care is required in centrifuging the goods'* 
before drying. A clean woolen cloth is laid out and 
the embroidered articles are spread on it and rolled 
up in it, but in such a way that the colored and 
white parts of the articles are not in contact. The 
roll is then centrifuged just as it is. When the roll 
has been in the machine ten or twelve minutes, it is 
undone, and the embroidered articles-are dried. 

Many dyes bleed the moment they are wetted, 
others only after a rather long washing with soap. 
The surest safeguards against bleeding are the use 
of moderate temperatures and the entrusting of the 
work to a skilled and dexterous hand who will do 
the washing with the utmost expedition. In many 
cases the addition of a little acetic acid or common 
salt to the soap bath is a great help, especially for 
goods that are not too dirty. Quillaia decoction with 
a few drops of turpentine often answers better than 
soap. If the embroidery has a lining which has been 
dyed with a dye which is not fast, nothing can be 
done but to remove the lining and wash it separately. 
It may also be noted that the colors most likely to 
bleed are olives, certain greens and yellows, and also 
dark red, violet, Bordeaux, and orange. 

Washing laces , blonde-laces, embroideries on linen. 
White imitation (cotton) laces, as well as embroid¬ 
eries on linen, are washed in hot soap suds, bleached, 


iy6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

and blued as given below under curtain washing. 
Either pin the lace, while wet, to a cushion, or iron it, 
care being taken not to get the design out of shape. 
Laces and curtains should not be rubbed or boiled 
too long. 

Real laces and silk blonde-laces with very delicate 
designs should be chemically cleaned, any remaining 
stains being removed by local treatment. If such 
articles have to be wet-washed proceed as follows: 
Fold the lace carefully and fasten with a few stitches 
along the edge. Next place it in a little bag made 
of fine old linen, which should then be sewed up. 
Place this in a vessel of pure olive oil, and soak for 
24 hours. The next day boil one-quarter of an hour 
in soap suds made by dissolving the soap in soft 
water. Rinse in cold water without squeezing the 
lace, until the water remains clear; then pass it 
through thin, slightly blue starch water ; take out of 
the bag; press slightly between the fingers, and iron 
with a hot iron. 

Since real laces, in order to preserve them, are very 
rarely washed, they are apt to be rather rotten and 
very yellow. If they have ever been wrongly treated 
they are harder to clean than others. By soaking 
them in olive oil as recommended above, the thread 
which has become rotten and thin from age or from 
washing, is restored to its former elasticity. 

Another method is as follows: Wind the lace 
smoothly and tightly about a wide bottle previously 
covered with old white linen or similar material. 
Tack each end of the lace with a needle and thread 


WET CLEANING. 


I 77 

to keep it smooth, and be careful in wrapping not 
to crumple or fold in any of the scallops or pearlins. 
After the lace is on the bottle soak it thoroughly to 
the inmost folds with olive oil by means of a clean 
sponge. Have ready in a kettle a strong cold lather 
of soft water and castile soap. Fill the bottle with 
cold water to prevent its bursting during boiling, 
cork well, and place it upright in the suds, with a 
string round the neck secured to the ears or handle 
of the kettle, to prevent its knocking about and 
breaking while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds 


Fig. 13. 



for an hour or more till the lace is clean. Then dry 
on the bottle in the sun. When dry take the lace 
from the bottle and wind it around a wide ribbon- 
spool ; or lay it in long folds, place it within a sheet 
of smooth white paper and press it for a few days in 
a large book. 

Instead of a bottle a round piece of hard wood 
about 10 inches long and 4 inches in diameter may 
be used. The wood with the lace wound about it, 
and the whole covered with a white linen cloth, is 
worked in the soap bath between the hands till the 

lace is clean. 


12 















178 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


A perforated cylinder of white porcelain, Fig. 13, 
may also be preferably employed in place of a bottle. 
Cover the cylinder with fine muslin, wrap the lace 
about the cylinder and cover the whole with muslin. 
Boil in soap suds, rinse in cold water, starch and 
dry, the latter being quickly effected in consequence 
of the many perforations of the cylinder. When dry 
remove the lace from the cylinder. 

Washing curtains .—White cotton curtains are first 
soaked and rinsed in three or four cold water baths 
to get rid of loose dirt. They are then put through 
two hot soap baths by squeezing them between the 
hands, avoiding all rubbing. After thorough rinsing, 
handle the curtains for half an hour in a warm bath, 
to which sufficient ean de Javelle has been added to 
make it feel slippery. Next treat the curtains for 10 
minutes in a sulphuric acid bath with ultramarine. 
Then starch with boiled wheat starch, adding some 
talcum to the latter to give the curtains the appear¬ 
ance of newness. Stir the talcum into the cold 
starch, and boil, but only for a short time, as by too 
long boiling the starch loses its adhesive power. 
Pass the curtains as hot as possible through the 
diluted starch, squeeze. w r ell, and put them in the 
curtain-stretcher. 

Cream-colored curtains are treated exactly as 
above, except that they are not blued, but their dye 
is renewed if necessary. Dye in lukewarm baths, ac¬ 
cording to the tone desired, with a few drops of color¬ 
ing matter, for instance, vesuvine G, phosphine, chry- 
soidine; the latter two products yielding colors with 


WET CLEANING. 


I 79 


a reddish tinge, and the former a dull yellow ecru. 
Beautiful dull tones are also obtained with neutral 
yellow in a warm bath. Or, color with a little anotto 
dissolved hot with soda, this yielding the most deli¬ 
cate tones. The curtains are starched like white 
curtains. 

Cream-colored curtains, which have been dyed with 
dye-woods or catechu, are recognized after washing 
by their gray or brownish color. Their original 
color is restored by passing them through a bath to 
which a few drops of hydrochloric acid have been 
added; subsequent thorough rinsing is absolutely 
necessary, otherwise the threads would be burnt by 
the acid. 

To curtains that have a gray dirty tone, a brighter 
color may be imparted by passing them through a 
warm bath containing diamine yellow with the addi¬ 
tion of auramine II. The color of curtains may also 
be revived in a cold-water bath to which a few drops 
of nitrate of iron have been added. 

Curtains which will stand washing in the machine 
should be put in a coarse net unless the attendant 
knows his business thoroughly, when they may be 
put in loose. In any case run them a few minutes 
with cold water or very weak soda. After drawing 
off this water, run them in strong soap suds with 
a little soda, taking care there is plenty of liquor to 
prevent the curtains from being torn. Begin cold 
and warm up, and after about ten to fifteen minutes 
draw off the lye and replace it with fresh. Next boil 
the curtains. Then rinse, first warm and then cold; 


l80 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

blue in the machine, centrifuge, and finish with 
wheat or potato starch. Finally dry on a stretching 
frame. 

Washing colored curtains. When curtains inter¬ 
woven with colored yarn are to be cleaned they 
should be examined as to whether the colors have 
already bled on to the white ground. Colored cur¬ 
tains should be tested as to the action of soap on 
them. If the colors are very fugitive, the curtains 
are washed by hand as quickly as possible in a cold 
soap bath made with as neutral a soap as can be got. 
Care must be had to keep different colored articles 
separate. If the dyes are fast the machine can be 
used. First rinse the curtains for a few minutes in 
cold water, then run them successively in two luke¬ 
warm—rather cold than warm—soap baths, rinse and 
add to the last rinsing water some acetic acid to 
liven the colors. The machine should not be stopped 
during the changes in the liquors, to prevent colored 
parts lying on white parts and bleeding onto them. 

Red cotton curtains are brushed cold. If they 
contain black or dark portions, they are scoured hot 
in the sulphuric acid bath, rinsed, and centrifuged. 

Washing veils. Different treatment is required 
for white and colored veils. White veils are washed 
in blood-warm soap water, gently wrung out, rinsed 
in cold water, blued, starched, beaten half-dry be¬ 
tween the hands, and finally hung up to dry thor¬ 
oughly. 

Black and colored veils are cleaned by rinsing in 
ox-gall and water to remove the dirt; then in pure 


WET CLEANING. 


181 


water to remove the ox-gall, and finally in a little 
gum-water to stiffen and crisp them. They are 
clapped half-dry between the hands, and finally hung 
up to dry thoroughly. 

For cleaning and renovating colored, and especially 
black, veils, some cleaners only use whiskey, which 
imparts a characteristic luster to the tissues. They 
are then stiffened with gum-water, clapped between 
the hands, and finally ironed between two damp 
linen cloths. 

Mourning veils and crapes of the better quality 
should be cleaned with benzine as they will not stand 
soap. After cleaning they are dressed with a size 
prepared according to one of the following formulae. 
Both sizes make the fabric practically waterproof. 

1. Dissolve 4 ozs. of beeswax in about 3 quarts of 
benzine on the water bath, cool, and make up to 4 
gallons with benzine. 

2. Use a solution of 4 ozs. each of bleached shel¬ 
lac and beeswax in 5 quarts of methyl alcohol. Dis¬ 
solve first the ingredients in a small quantity of the 
solvent and subsequently dilute with the remainder. 
This size gives a stiffer dressing. 

Washing silk and silver laces. Place the laces in 
curdled milk for 24 hours. Stir a piece of good 
soap, reduced to shavings, in 2 quarts of soft water, 
add a proportionate quantity of honey and fresh ox¬ 
gall, and beat the whole for some time. If it be¬ 
comes too thick, add water so that a thin paste is 
formed. Allow this to stand for 12 hours and then 
apply it to the wet laces. Then wrap a moist cloth 


182 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


around a mangle roller, around the cloth the laces, 
and around the latter another moist cloth. The laces 
are then mangled, they being occasionally moistened 
with water, and several times brushed over with the 
above-mentioned paste. Next soak gum arabic in 
water until completely dissolved, add an equal quan¬ 
tity of sugar, and when this is completely dissolved, 
and the solution has become clear, immerse the laces 
in it; then mangle them smooth between two cloths, 
and hang them up to dry. 

Washing gold laces. Place them over night in 
very dilute vinegar or a poor quality of white wine, 
and then proceed in the same manner as with silver 
laces. 

If the laces, etc., are worn so that the white ground 
shows through, they may be restored as follows.: 
Extract 50 parts by weight of shellac, 2 of dragon’s 
blood, and 2 of turmeric root with strong alcohol, 
and decant the ruby-red extract. Apply the extract 
with a camel’s-hair brush to the articles to be re¬ 
stored, and then pass over them at the height of 
several inches a hot flat-iron, so that the laces are 
only exposed to the heat without coming in actual 
contact with the iron. 

Cleaning gold and silver galloons. If these have 
been ripped off and are not too dirty, they may be 
washed with rectified turpentine. They may also be 
soaked for some hours in water to which acetic acid 
has been added and finally brushed with soap solu¬ 
tion by means of a soft brush. For cleaning gold 
embroideries on a dark ground, rouge is recom- 


WET CLEANING. 


183 

mended. For gold and silver embroideries on a 
light ground use very fine whiting or Vienna lime, 
and gently and carefully rub the embroidery with a 
soft brush dipped into the dry powder, so that 
nothing drops upon the fabric beneath. 

An excellent plan for cleaning gold and silver 
galloons, embroideries, fringes, etc., is as follows: 
Dip a small pad of cotton in pulverized tartar and 
rub the articles till they are bright, taking care not 
to soil the fabric beneath. 

Cleaning parasols. The cleaning of parasols on 
the frame presents many difficulties, but is apt to be 
a remunerative branch of the cleaner’s business, 
especially during the spring and summer months 
On receiving such articles they should be carefully 
examined as to their fitness for cleaning, as they are 
frequently worn in the creases and damaged on top. 
Such parasols can only be cleaned with benzine; 
they would not stand wet-washing, as they would 
immediately split. It is therefore best not to under¬ 
take them at all. 

White silk and cotton parasols are best cleaned on 
the frame by washing in cold soap suds and scrub¬ 
bing the crease streaks with a soft brush. Next 
rinse the parasol in warm water, then pour over it a 
dilute solution of sulphuric or saccharic acid, and 
rinse again in clean water to remove every trace of 
acid from both the goods and frame. The parasol, 
while open, is now rubbed off with a piece of chamois, 
and pieces of white paper are inserted between the 
metal parts and the goods; it is then whirled a 


184 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

couple of minutes in warm air and then allowed to 
dry while still raised. White cotton parasols should 
be treated with warm eau de Javelle instead of sac¬ 
charic acid. The handle should, if in any way pos¬ 
sible, be kept dry, otherwise the color and lacquer 
are likely to suffer. 

Colored and checkered parasols are cleaned in the 
same manner, but black checkered covers should not 
be treated with acid, common salt being substituted 
to keep the color from running. Embroidered para¬ 
sols are also washed in the same manner; should 
the colors of the embroidery run, pass the parasol 
through warm soap suds, rinse immediately, dry 
quickly with a piece of chamois, and cover the em¬ 
broidered parts with plaster of Paris, which will 
rapidly absorb the remaining water and thus prevent 
the colors from running. Finally dry the parasol 
quickly in the sun or by artificial heat. 

In wet-cleaning parasols it will be necessary to 
see whether the joints are lined with leather or col¬ 
ored silk; if this be the case the utmost dispatch in 
treating the parasols is imperative. Light-colored 
parasols should be cleaned with soap, dark ones with 
quillaia and ammonia. Those that are lined, as 
mentioned above, should be wrapped in a clean 
cloth, white paper inserted under the ribs, again well 
rubbed and quickly dried. A weak gelatine dress¬ 
ing will also be necessary. Parasols with wooden 
handles must not remain long in the wash liquor, as 
otherwise the wood might swell. The parasols 
should also be frequently turned while drying. 


WET CLEANING. 


i8 5 


Dark parasols are cleaned with benzine, and when 
the latter has evaporated, brushed with quillaia bark 
decoction and dried as previously described. Sour¬ 
ing with dilute acetic acid is very beneficial to the 
colors, but a good sponging and dressing with gela¬ 
tine solution mixed with alcohol will also answer. 
Parasols treated in this manner look like new. 

As the parasols are dried while raised, ironing will 
not be required. Trimmings of ruffles, plaits, or lace 
must, however, be ironed. Ornaments, such as 
beads, or cords, should be removed before cleaning 
and treated separately. Rust spots are removed 
with hot saccharic acid or some similar stain-remov¬ 
ing agent. 

Very fine parasols which are only slightly soiled 
should only be cleaned with benzine, and when the 
latter has evaporated, brushed with distilled water 
and alcohol. 

Wet-cleaning carpets. Very dirty carpets, espe¬ 
cially those about which there is no doubt as to the 
fastness of their colors, are wet-cleaned. The first 
thing to be done is to free the carpet from dust, 
either by beating by hand or machine. This pre¬ 
liminary must on no account be neglected if the 
carpet is to look any better after cleaning than be¬ 
fore. 

It is advisable to test the fastness of the dyes in 
the carpets to be wet-washed with a cold neutral 
soap solution. The best way to do this is to let the 
solution act for a few minutes on a corner of the 
carpet. The solution should be strong enough to 


186 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

lather well. After the solution has acted for a suffi¬ 
cient length of time, rinse well, moisten with dilute 
vinegar, and dry by pressure between cloths. The 
subsequent operations must be regulated according 
to the appearance now presented by the corner of 
the carpet. 

The best method of procedure is as follows: The 
carpet having been spread out on a clean floor, 
wrong side uppermost, it is brushed over thoroughly 
with plenty of clean cold water. It is then turned 
over and the brushing is repeated. A squeegee can 
be used to get rid of the dirty water, and the floor 
should be of concrete and provided with drains. 
The next step is to brush with a good lathering lye 
of quillaia, using more and more lye, until the froth 
stands unchanged upon the carpet. Rinsing with 
plenty of clean water comes next, whereupon the 
colors are brightened with dilute acetic acid, and the 
carpet is hung up to drain or centrifuged if a big 
centrifugal is available. If ordinary soap is not used 
there is little fear of the colors running. The quillaia 
must be used without any assistant whatever. Either 
ammonia or carbonate of soda will accelerate the 
cleansing process, but at the imminent risk of mak¬ 
ing the dyes bleed, and so spoiling the appearance 
of the carpet. 

Let us now suppose the cleaner has to deal with 
a carpet which has suffered by a previous unskilled 
washing in which common soap has been used. The 
run colors cannot be put back into their proper 
places, but much may be done in the way of remov- 


WET CLEANING. 


18; 


ing dye which has reached places for which it was 
not intended, and it often happens that the proper 
places still retain enough coloring matter to enable 
the cleaned carpet to be quite, or nearly, as well 
colored as it was at first. In such a case we begin 
by soaking the carpet in plenty of warm water. This 
will take out some, perhaps nearly all, of the strayed 
coloring matter. After lifting, the carpet is spread 
out on the floor and washed as above described, but 
with a perfectly neutral soap. Here the cleaner has 
an opportunity of showing his skill. Not only must 
the soap be perfectly neutral, but not one ounce of 
it more than is absolutely necessary may be used, 
and although the lye must probably be used hot, or 
at least warm, the cooler it is the better. The rins¬ 
ing is done in very w^eak carbonate of soda. The 
carpet is finally scoured and centrifuged. In the 
latter process the carpet must be rolled up in a clean 
cloth, so that should there be subsequent bleeding 
the cloth protects the rest of the carpet. If any 
dressing is needed strong glue is best. Weak glue will 
again provoke the main danger of carpet cleaning— 
the running of the colors. 


IV. 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 

The object of finishing is to give the cleaned or 
dyed articles the required feel, luster, shape, and a 
good appearance in general. This operation includes 
starching, gumming, steaming, ironing, pressing, 
stretching, dyeing, etc. Everything depends on a 
good finish, so that the greatest attention has to be 
paid to the operation. No matter how carefully an 
article may have been cleaned, it presents a poor 
appearance if the required finish is wanting, while, 
on the other hand, any defects which could not be 
removed are more readily overlooked if the article 
is well finished. 

The cleaning operations leave the articles more or 
less wet, and this moisture has to be got rid of by 
wringing. With small lots this may be done by 
hand or the familiar wringer, which may be applied 
to nearly all fabrics, with the exception of velvet, 
velveteen, plush, and all fabrics having a pile. The 
main thing in wringing is to fold the articles the 
right way so that when the wringer is used they are 
drawn into the machine in the direction of their 
length. 

The best means of removing the water from wet 

( 188) 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 189 

textile fabrics is, however, by the use of a centri¬ 
fugal or hydro-extractor, similar to that described 
under dry cleaning. Generally, when the goods are 
removed from the hydro-extractor, they will be 
found sufficiently dry for all the finishing operations. 

For the quick drying of wet-cleaned garments a 
cylindrical frame rotating on a vertical axis is to be 
preferred. It is set in rotation in the drying room 
and saves much heat. Frames are also used pro¬ 
vided with mechanism for shaking the garments dur¬ 
ing the drying process. There is a constantly chang¬ 
ing wet surface and hence quicker drying, which is 
very necessary in this work. 

Shrunken garments are best dried stretched on 
frames, or, in the case of ladies’ garments, on cones. 
As regards linings, the modern practice is to damp 
them with water when the rest of the garment is dry, 
and then use hot steam pipes. This is the best way 
of preventing the occurrence of shiny places in the 
lining. The work is also done more quickly, so 
that with only one or two sets of apparatus a large 
quantity of goods can be quickly handled and the 
turnover of the establishment increased. For sprink¬ 
ling dressings on linings, ordinary sprayers with 
various sized orifices answer well. A set of finer and 
coarser sprayers can be provided at a very small 
cost. They come in useful also for spotting, damp¬ 
ing goods for ironing, and even in some cases for 
dyeing. 

For shaping and smoothing, steaming tables and 
presses are necessary. A small business would re- 


!C )3 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

quire a steaming table with a steam cavity about 32 
inches long and tapering in width from 16 to about 
6 inches. This should be supplemented by a cylin¬ 
drical steamer about 8 inches long and 3/4 inches in 
diameter. The larger steamer should stand freely 
on the floor or on a cast iron sheet, as then long and 
wide articles, such as carpets, can be conveniently 
steamed on it. A medium business requires from 
four to six steamers, two cylindrical, one large and 
one small, the others of plate and spherical form. 
The larger cylindrical steamer should be abont 2 ft. 
long and 6 inches in diameter. The steam must 
have a pressure of at least three atmospheres; more 
may be wanted. For pressures of five atmospheres 
and upwards and for large steamers, brass or cast 
iron is the best material, but for lower pressures cop¬ 
per should always be used as it combines good con¬ 
ductivity with small radiating power. 

Many articles of wearing apparel are finished by 
hand-ironing on ordinary ironing tables or skirt 
boards, covered with one or more layers of gray felt 
and a layer of white muslin. The irons used may 
be heated on a stove, by the internal combustion of 
gas or denatured alcohol, or by electricity. 

Finishing white and colored woolen shawls , fichus , 
etc. Open-meshed crocheted and woven shawls are 
passed through the hydro-extractor, and while still 
moist stretched upon a cushion where they are 
allowed to dry, care being taken to get them into 
good shape. Square shawls may be loosely stretched 
in a frame. 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 191 

Long shawls and all closely woven fabrics are 
steamed and partially lightly pressed, but generally 
cold. Blankets are steamed. 

Finishing white and colored silk shawls , etc. White 
and colored articles are finished with dilute starch or 
pure gelatine. The gelatine liquor must not redden 
blue litmus paper, since when the blue (ultramarine) 
is added, the latter by the action of the acid turns 
gray, and a pure white tone cannot be obtained. 

All wet-washed silk articles require a dressing; 
suitable for this purpose are : Irish moss, gum traga- 
canth and gelatine ; the latter two for light articles. 
Trish moss is best for the black and dark-colored 
silk. To prevent black garments from becoming 
hard in dressing and to give them a soft feel, dress¬ 
ing oil is used. The previously dried articles are 
drawn through one of the above-mentioned dressing 
solutions, and the dressing preparation is applied by 
means of a soft brush or a soft sponge. The strength 
of the dressing depends on whether the article re¬ 
quires a hard or soft feel. 

When dressing silk it may happen that it wrinkles, 
this being due to the tension of the thread produced 
by the heat. This is the case with most silk fabrics, 
even when dressing them only with water. Such 
wrinkles are removed by pressing with a medium- 
warm iron between tissue paper. 

Finishing laces , embroideries , etc. As regards 
finishing such articles much attention must be paid 
to their quality. Coarse common lace is dressed 
with starch, sometimes very heavily, and with a 


192 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

mineral filling as well. The amount of stiffness 
imparted is of much importance and depends a great 
deal upon the use to which the lace is to be put. 
Stiffness that would be out of place in a lace collar, 
for example, may be advisable in a trimming. 

As a general rule, the better the lace the more 
lightly it must be dressed. Gelatine is used for some 
laces and must be applied thin and not too hot. 
With the same precautions gum tragacanth does 
useful service. Great care must be taken that all 
dressing solutions are colorless and clear, or the 
appearance of the lace is sure to suffer, especially 
that of dyed lace. Some finishers use a combination 
of farina and a gelatine preparation from wheat 
gluten, or even gluten by itself, but gluten putrifies 
more easily than animal gelatines, and is more likely 
to give bad color and smell. 

After dressing all laces must be pinned out on the 
cushion or fixed on frames when half dry, so that the 
drying can be completed without shrinkage or dis¬ 
tortion. When dry, coarse goods are calendered, 
fine goods are ironed. 

For white lace the best grain soap has lately been 
recommended as a dressing. The soap must be of 
the very best, and is used in lukewarm solution 
mixed with just a little ammonia. To prevent any 
yellow tinge, the goods are blued in lukewarm water 
containing methyl violet and a trace of sulphuric 
acid. A really first-class soap gives excellent results, 
although the dressing, of course, is not fast to water. 
It also gives a beautifully smooth and soft handle. 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 193 

Plush and similar articles acquire a soft, velvety 
feel by taking them through a soap bath. 

Black silk laces , etc., acquire a good luster by 
dressing with decoction of fleawort seed, or they are 
squeezed well between the hand and ironed dry. 

With laces, cleaning is of secondary consideration, 
smoothing and glossing them, which is less effected 
by ironing than by stretching and steaming being 
of prime importance. A steaming apparatus of 
copper or zinc may, according to requirement, have 
the form of a plate or cylinder and should be covered 
with baize or fine muslin. After steaming the laces, 
small table covers, crocheted articles, etc., are 
smoothly pinned to a cushion and dried. 

Dressing for white einbroideries. Treat with fat 
grain soap solution heated to about 95 0 F., to which 
some ammonia has been added ; blue in lukewarm 
water with methyl violet and a little sulphuric acid. 
By this means the yellow tone and dull luster will 
disappear. 

Finishing curtains. This has been fully referred 
to under “Washing Curtains.” To prevent as much 
as possible tulle and curtains from sticking together, 
the use of the following starch preparation may be 
recommended : Stir into 60 quarts of cold water 7 to 
8 quarts of clear chloride of lime solution of 7 Be. 
then introduce, stirring constantly, 22 lbs. of potato 
flour and bring the whole to the boiling point. At 
from 140° to 186 0 F. the result will be such a stiff 
mass that it can scarcely be stirred. When this con¬ 
sistency has been reached, shut off the steam, stir 
13 


194 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


constantly, and in about 5 to io minutes the mass 
will be found to become thinner in consistency. 
Now introduce steam, and after actual boiling for 
about 5 minutes, the mass will become thin as water. 
Continue boiling for at least hour for the volatili¬ 
zation of the chlorine gas. Then add one to two 
quarts of glycerine, and boil again for five minutes, 
when the dressing can be used without the addition 
of water. 

When the curtains have been starched they are 
stretched while moist in a curtain-stretcher. 

Plush draperies are thoroughly steamed after dry¬ 
ing, and the pile is raised by brushing. 

Finishing men's garments. Men’s garments are 


Fig. 14. 



after drying steamed on a steam-board. The latter 
consists of a slightly arched hollow copper cylinder, 
the top of which is perforated with a large number 
of holes. It should be so constructed that the water 
formed by condensation separates at the lower end, 
so that only dry steam passes out through the holes. 
The construction of such steam-boards will be readily 
understood from the accompanying illustrations. 
Fig. 14 shows a large steam-board, about 64 inches 



FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 


195 


long. It consists of a front and back part which can 
be used independently of each other. The shape is 
such that pantaloons may be drawn over the front 
portion. The arrangment for freeing the steam 
from water is such that it is impossible for moisture 


Fig. 15. 



to pass into the goods. After steaming the garments 
are pressed. 

The steam-board shown in Fig. 15 serves for 
steaming the sleeves of men’s coats. Fig. 16 is a 
steam-board for pantaloons, and Fig. 17 is a steam- 
board for coats. 

Another form in which these steamers are made is 
that of a table with a rounded top, as shown in Fig. 


Fig. 16. 



18. The table is mounted upon a strong wooden 
frame, and serves as a substitute for the ironing cush¬ 
ion mentioned later on in pressing men’s garments. 

The steam is conveyed into the steamers by pipes, 
and there are also exit pipes for condensed water 


196 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

and surplus steam. In order that dry steam may 
always be available and no moisture appear upon 
the steamer, the pipe conveying the steam into the 


Fig. 17. 



steamer should run the entire length of the latter, 
the holes should lie downward, and the bottom of the 
steamer be so shaped that the center is the deepest 
part. By the holes lying downward the water forced 
along with the steam is prevented from being carried 
upward by the steam, and by the convex shape of 


Fig. 18. 



the bottom, the water condensed in the steam box is 
impelled downward. It is also advisable to place a 
finely perforated cover of copper over the steam- 


































FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 197 

pipe, and to see that the steam produced by the 
boiler is not too wet. 

For pressing men’s garments Vollbrecht gives the 
following directions : Provide a solid cushion about 
3 feet long, 16 to 24 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches 
deep. This cushion should be shaped so that it is 
rounded off on one side similar to a steam-board 
and be covered with firm linen free from dressing. 
For pressing serves a block of iron with a detach¬ 
able handle, and this should be thoroughly heated 
without being red-hot. For brushing off the steam 
use a close, short-bristled brush, like a large clothes 
brush, and in addition have a strong clean piece of 
linen free from dressing. 

Pressing is executed as follows: The portion of 
the garment to be pressed is laid smoothly upon the 
cushion. Moisten the clean linen cloth with water, 
and after squeezing it out, lay it on the article and 
run the hot iron over it until it appears dry. Then 
remove the cloth quickly and beat the steamed part 
with the brush till the steam has disappeared. Finally 
stretch and brush the article. 

When pressing a man’s coat, press the sleeves first, 
then the breast or front portions. Next come the 
lapels and collar, pressing them sharply under the 
linen cloth doubled. Finally press the back portions 
of the skirt. The lining is then pressed, without, 
however, using the damp linen cloth, which finishes 
the coat. 

Pantaloons are laid so that the crease comes 
closely back of the side seam. Press the front side 


198 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

up to the crotch, then place them so that the side 
seam lies upon the inner seam, press once more but 
only to near the knee, so that there is a slight crease 
back which contributes towards a good set. The 
band, lining, pockets and the upper inner portion to 
the crotch are then pressed dry, as well as the fac¬ 
ing, which finishes the operation. 

When pressing waistcoats, the two front portions 
of the fabric and the collar are pressed wet, and the 
inside portions of the front parts dry, as well as the 
back, the latter being pressed on the outer right side. 

In establishments where men’s suits in large quan¬ 
tities have to be pressed a bust-finishing machine 
and a flat-pressing machine are sometimes used ; the 
former is employed for shaping and finishing the 
bust, shoulders, and collars of men’s coats, and the 
latter for finishing the sleeves and flat portions of 
coats and pantaloons. 

Heavy irons to which foot-pressure can be applied 
are sometimes used for pressing men’s clothes. 
This machine is fitted with a heavy tailor’s iron, the 
latter being heated either by steam or gas. 

The slow and tedious process of pressing clothes 
by hand is, however, connected with many disad¬ 
vantages. The extremely high temperature—ap¬ 
proximately 900° F.—at which it is necessary to 
operate the hand-iron used in connection with a 
damp pressing or sponging cloth, in order to sim¬ 
ultaneously press and steam the garment, has a 
damaging effect upon the cloth. It robs the cloth 
of its oils, frequently bakes it to a crisp, destroys 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 


199 


elasticity, softness, life and color, changes the char¬ 
acter of the fabric, leaving it harsh and brittle, in¬ 
stead of soft and pliable. 

Still another problem with which many have to 
contend is the lack of uniformity of finish, it being 
almost impossible to give to the entire garment an 
equal amount of pressure, heat and moisture. 
Scorching and gloss due to overheated hand-irons, 
careless, indifferent and inexperienced help are of 
frequent occurrence and a source of annoyance and 
of considerable expense. 

Machines for pressing clothes by steam are for 
the above-mentioned reasons rapidly superseding 
the goose or hand-iron. The machines made by 
the United States Hoffman Company of Syracuse, 
N. Y., have not only overcome the many deficiencies 
of the hand-iron, but also have surpassed it in the 
quality of the work produced and the volume of out¬ 
put. They accomplish three times the work, and 
eliminate any possibility of damage to the cloth, it 
being by this method impossible to scorch a gar¬ 
ment. The steam improves the general condition 
of the cloth because it does the work at the right 
temperature—300° F. It raises the nap, prevents 
gloss, brings out the color, imparts new life, luster 
and beauty to the fabric, and gives it that flexible, 
soft feel heretofore so difficult to obtain. By inject¬ 
ing steam into the cloth, the garment is readily 
shaped, instantly dried and set. Besides the pro¬ 
cess is a sanitary one, as all steam-pressed garments 
are sterilized garments, the advantage of which is 
too obvious to require further comment. 


200 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Fig. 19 shows model “A A” of the pressing ma¬ 
chines manufactured by the United States Hoffman 
Co. It is perhaps the most popular press of the 
entire line by reason of its general adaptability to 
most classes of work. It requires a space of about 
4 feet square. The frame is made extra heavy at 
all pressure points so as to provide against undue 
strain at the hands of thoughtless operators. All 


Fig. 19. 



piping is of wrought iron, all steam fittings of bronze. 
The boiler is of special construction, after the manu¬ 
facturers’ own specifications. It is provided with 
water gauge, steam gauge, pop valve regulated to 
hold any steam pressure desired, and pump for fill¬ 
ing. It is guaranteed to stand an hydraulic pressure 
of 220 pounds, and in many instances tests of more 
than 500 pounds have been made. The working 
pressure, however, is very low, being only 60 pounds, 




FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 


201 


and this is quickly generated and easily maintained, 
the quantity of gas used for the purpose being about 
the same as ordinarily used for heating irons. 

In cases where plants have their own steam equip¬ 
ment, the machine is provided with a separator in 
place of the boiler for direct connection. Steam is 
piped from the boiler or separator on the machine 
to a steam chamber forming part of the head. The 
bottom of the head proper is fitted with a perforated 
plate through which the steam is diffused and spread 
onto the garment. This steam also serves to keep 
the head heated to the required temperature. The 
head is perfectly balanced, and can be easily raised 
and lowered. Beneath the head is the steam-heated 
stationary buck corresponding to an ironing board. 
The garment is heated from top to bottom, or, in 
other words, on both sides. The head and buck are 
linen-covered and the latter is also properly padded. 

After having obtained a pressure of 60 pounds, 
the machine is ready for work. The operation is 
extremely simple. The garment is placed on the 
buck, the head brought down into position upon it, 
and steam is passed onto the cloth by slightly open¬ 
ing the valve on top of the head. The head is held 
down upon the garment, at any desired pressure, 
and this pressure is maintained without effort by 
means of a powerful lever. Pressure is then released 
from the lever, and the head returns to its original 
elevate^ position. This operation requires less time 
than it takes to tell about it, and is of course re¬ 
peated until the entire garment is finished. It is not 


202 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


necessary to hang the garment up for drying as the 
hot dry steam accomplishes this during the course 
of pressing. 

Finishing ladies' garments. A good finish of 
these articles, the correct choice of the dressing 
medium, and smoothing are of the utmost importance. 
Chemically cleaned articles give the least trouble; 
thinner articles need only be brushed while ironing 
with gelatine water. All other articles require no 
further dressing, and by a medium hot flat-iron the 
shape can be readily restored. 

Starch together with some gelatine is the best 
dressing for light-colored linen, cotton, half wool 
and thin wool fabrics. For dark fabrics, glue and 
Irish moss are used, and for silk, gum tragacanth or 
gelatine. The dressing should be employed in as 
finely divided a state as possible, which is effected 
by thorough soaking, long boiling, and straining. 

For cotton goods a good brand of wheat starch 
may be used, which for light-colored and white arti¬ 
cles is slightly blued with ultramarine. For dark 
blue, dark red and black cottons, as well as for wool 
and half-wool fabrics a mixture of glue and gelatine 
is employed as dressing. Bad-smelling glue should 
not be used as the odor cannot be removed from the 
garments. 

Thoroughly boiled rice starch is an^xcellent dress¬ 
ing for men’s and ladies’ summer garments which 
have been wet-washed. The articles are passed 
through the starch bath at a temperature not above 
86° F. Previous centrifuging is absolutely neces- 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 


203 


sary, so that the dressing can be suitably thickened 
or thinned in accordance with the fabrics. When 
the dressing has been applied the articles are cen¬ 
trifuged, then stretched, dried, and ironed upon the 
wrong side under a wet linen cloth. The work is 
more easily effected by means of a steam-table. 
Benzine-washed garments seldom require dressing, 


Fig. 20. 



and, if so, all that is necessary is to brush the lining 
with a moist sponge, and iron immediately. 

All starched articles are ironed in an air-dry state, 
though very hard fabrics may have to be previously 
sprinkled. 

Ladies’ garments which have been ripped, as well 
as lighter articles of silk, half-silk, wool, half-wool, 
or cotton, after having been dressed with a suitable 
medium, are dried in a drying cylinder or drying 
table, the construction of which is readily seen from 
the illustrations, Fig. 20 showing a drying cylinder 
and Fig. 21a drying table. 

Fig. 22 shows steam-heated puff irons. They 
are tubular devices of various shapes and sizes, and 















204 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER,GARMENT DYER. 

can be heated by steam. They are extremely simple 
in use, the articles being held tightly by the hand on 
the heated surface for a few seconds. They are em- 


Fig. 21 . 



ployed for finishing the shoulders of coats, the 
sleeves of blouses, etc., the fulness or irregularly- 
shaped surface of any articles which cannot be ironed 

Fig, 22. 



satisfactorily, small frills of ribbons, lace, etc., trim¬ 
mings on babies’ bonnets, in fact a finish can be 
easily and quickly given to many articles of ladies’ 





























FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 


205 


dresses which is not readily obtainable in other ways. 
They require but very little space. The operator 
need not carry the work around the table. For use, 
it is only necessary to draw down the iron desired. 

Dressing for garment dyers and laundry men. For 
light woolens which have to retain to the full the 
characteristic feel of the material, pure gristle glue 
is the best dressing. Choose the glue as nearly free 
from color and smell as possible? The glue must be 
swelled in cold water, and then boiled before use. 
Add a little borax to preserve it, and also a little 
acetic acid and glycerine. The object of the acid is 
to preserve the glue solution. The thinner the wool, 
the stronger the dressing must be made. The solu¬ 
tion is used warm, but not hot. For wool-silk, and 
all women’s garments, the above dressing is about 
the best that can be had. In finishing half-woolens, 
glue is used in conjunction with clear-boiled starch 
and a little acetic acid. The finish is used cold, or 
at most lukewarm. If hot, it will strip too much of 
the dye from the cotton. The garments must be 
uniformly centrifuged after dressing, and hung up 
to dry without any creases. The drying must be 
at a moderate temperature, or the glue will show. 

In finishing pure silk use simply a solution of col¬ 
orless gelatine, with the usual addition of acetic acid. 
The dressing is applied warm with a sponge or a very 
soft brush, and the drying is done at a very low 
heat. For black silk it is a good plan to add a de¬ 
coction of curled mint as well as acetic acid to the 
latter. Half-silk is finished in the same manner. 


206 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 


There are many dressings for cotton and linen, 
but only a few of them are available on fabrics which 
have been made up into garments. Nothing is better 
than good wheat starch. A little glue can be added 
to it for colored cottons, and a little wax improves 
the subsequent feel. 

Gloss starch. I. Boil 9 lbs. pulverized borax, 3 
lbs. stearine and 3 lbs. white wax in a proportionate 
quantity of soda lye of 20° Be. to a liquid mass of 
uniform consistency, and evaporate to dryness. Mix 
the product thus obtained in the proportion of 1:10 
with rice starch. The gloss-starch thus obtained 
imparts to clothes starched with it a beautiful gloss 
and the stiffness of a board. 

2. Rice starch 100 parts by weight, pulverized 
borax 5, pulverized boric acid 2.6. Rub all through 
a hair sieve. 

3. Pulverized starch 1 lb., pulverized borax 3 ozs. 
common salt y oz., white gum-arabic 9*4 ozs. 

4. Elastic gloss-starch. Mix 100 parts by weight 
of wheat starch with 0.7 to 0.8 part by weight of 
stearine. 

5. Cream gloss. Lard 7 lbs., ammonia of 0.88 
specific gravity 1 lb., bleached beeswax y 2 lb., 
glycerine of 1.26 specific gravity y 2 lb., and a few 
drops of oil of citronella. Melt the lard and the 
wax, stirring constantly until the cooling mass ac¬ 
quires a salve-like consistency ; then add the glycer¬ 
ine, oil of citronella, and ammonia, previously stirred 
together, and mix the whole thoroughly. Of this 
cream-gloss add a small quantity to the starch. 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 20J 

Water-proofing fabrics, i. Boil lb. white cas- 
tile soap in 12 quarts of water, and, on the other 
hand, dissolve 6 ozs. of alum in 12 quarts of water. 
Ileat both solutions separately to about 194 0 F. 
Then pass the fabric first through the soap solution, 
then through the alum solution, and finally dry in 
the air. 

2. For making cloth, woolen, felt and cotton fab¬ 
rics impervious to water the following mixture may 
also be used: Borax 5 ozs., fish glue 2 lbs., sago 1 
oz., salep 1 oz., stearine 5 ozs., and water 10 quarts. 

3. Another formula for the same purpose is as fol¬ 
lows: Dissolve 5 ozs. of alum in 3 quarts of water of 
176° F. On the other hand, dissolve 22^ ozs. of 
lead acetate in i l /i quarts of water of 158° F. Mix 
the two solutions, allow to settle, and decant the 
clear liquor. Place the fabric in the liquor at the 
ordinary temperature for 24 hours, and then dry. 
The fabric acquires no odor and retains its softness. 

4. According to another process fabrics of all 
kinds are rendered waterproof as follows: Dissolve 
1 part of alum and 1 part of lead acetate in hot 
water, stir, and allow to stand till the fluid is clear, 
and then add a few drops of isinglass solution. The 
fabric is moistened and handled in the bath and then 
dried, if possible stretched in a frame, and pressed. 
For 50 quarts of water there will be required about 
1 lb. of alum, 1 lb. of lead acetate, and 10 drops of 
isinglass solution. The bath is used warm. 

5. For water-proofing coarse wool-stuffs, place the 
fabric for one hour in a cold 2 to 3 per cent, solu- 


208 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

tion of aluminium sulphate, then centrifuge, and dry 
at a quite warm temperature. Then pass for 15 to 
20 minutes through a cold soap solution (oz. 
soap to 1 gallon water), centrifuge, and dry hot. If 
the fabric should show a white efflorescence too 
much aluminium sulphate has been used, and it has 
to be washed in cold water. If the fabric is treated 
twice, the first aluminium sulphate solution may be 
used without further addition, but the soap solution 
must be fresh. It is advisable to neutralize the 
aluminium sulphate solution with a little soda till it 
shows a remaining turbidity. Such solution of basic 
aluminium sulphate is almost equal in its effect to 
aluminium acetate, and does not impart a rancid, 
acid odor to the fabric. 

A waterproof finish is also obtained by placing 
the articles which have been starched with starch to 
which glue has been added, for a few hours in a 20 
per cent, formaldehyde liquor. 

Fire-proofing fabrics. Borax and alum were the 
first substances noted to have fire-proofing qualities, 
and although these are easily washed out of the 
goods, they are in common use for fire-proofing 
light fabrics. For coarse goods, theatre scenery, 
etc., alum, borax, silicate of soda, calcium chloride 
and magnesium chloride are all used, the salt se¬ 
lected being dissolved and the solution added to the 
ordinary dressing. Tungstate of soda is an excellent 
fire-proofing material, and it has the peculiar quality 
of having an affinity for the fiber, whereby it becomes 
difficult to wash out after the fabric has been steeped 


FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 209 

in a solution of it. Unfortunately, it has the disad¬ 
vantage of expense, and in modern fire-proofing 
processes the discovery, that salts of ammonia were 
more efficacious and much cheaper, has led to the 
use of tungstate of soda being almost entirely 
abandoned. 

Below some formulas for fire-proofing solutions 
are given : 

1. Ammonium sulphate I lb. dissolved in soft 
water 8 lbs. This solution is very suitable for im¬ 
pregnating thin cotton or linen tissues, laces, etc. 

2. Finely pulverize and mix ammonium chloride 
40 ozs., borax 10 ozs., common salt 5 ozs. For use 
dissolve the mixture in 16 times the quantity of hot 
water. 

3. Ammonium sulphate 4 lbs., boric acid lbs., 
borax 1 lb. Mix the ingredients in a dry state, and 
for use dissolve the mixture in the proportion of 8 
to 100 in boiling water. 

4. Borax 15 lbs., epsom salt 11 lbs., water 10 
gallons. 

5. Alum 5 lbs., ammonium phosphate 5 lbs., 
water 10 gallons. 

6. Dissolve in soap water, alum 6 parts, borax 2, 
tungstate of soda 1, and dextrine 1. 

Fire-proofing starch. A more simple method of 
impregnating fabrics that are more or less to be 
starched, consists in incorporating a salt that pos¬ 
sesses fire-proofing qualities with the starch. The 
salt is dissolved by mixing it with the water re¬ 
quired for the starch, and on steeping the fabric in 
14 


2 10 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

the starch passes into the fibers, filling the latter. 
The articles are then ironed in the usual manner. 

1. Sulphate of ammonia 80 lbs., ammonium 
chloride 25 lbs., boric acid 30 lbs., borax 17% lbs., 
starch 20 lbs., water 100 gallons. 

2. Sulphate of ammonia 25 lbs., carbonate of am¬ 
monia 30 lbs., boric acid 30 lbs., borax 20 lbs., 
starch 20 lbs., water 100 gallons. 

Martin's fire-proof dressing. Dissolve in 100 parts 
of water, ammonium sulphate 8 parts, ammonium 
carbonate 2]/ 2 parts, boric acid 3, pure borax 2, 
starch 2, dextrine 

The fabric is soaked in the solution at 86° F., then 
lightly wrung out, and dried. The quantity of starch 
as well as of dextrine may be changed as desired, 
according to whether the articles are to be made 
more or less stiff. 

Apyrine starch . Ammonium sulphate 8 ozs., mag¬ 
nesium sulphate 8 ozs., wheat starch 7^/2 lbs. 


V. 


CLEANING AND DYEING FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 

CLEANING. Fur cleaning is an important branch 
of dry cleaning, and also one of the most risky, for 
the articles are sometimes of great value and cannot 
be treated like ordinary textile fabrics. 

The furs should first be carefully examined in 
order to ascertain whether they are torn, or whether 
any matches have gotten into them, the latter being 
a serious matter where the cleaning is to be done 
with benzine. As much dust as possible should also 
be removed by beating over a wire mattress with a 
carpet beater. A further point to be considered is 
the color, and it depends entirely upon the dye 
which has been used whether the fur can be cleaned 
with soap and water, or must be treated with ben¬ 
zine. The skin part must also be examined with 
the view of ascertaining whether it will stand washing. 

Polar bear, tiger, leopard, lion, seal, rabbit, squirrel, 
dog, sheep and goat skins should be chemically 
cleaned, that is, washed in benzine, unless they are 
too badly soiled. White skins are best cleaned with 
benzine and benzine soap, being brushed by hand. 
They should then be put into the extractor for about 
ten minutes. After this they should be removed, 
rinsed in fresh, clear benzine, and well shaken. 

(211 ) 


212 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Next place them upon a table and dry by rubbing 
in potato meal until the hairs are no longer damp 
and clammy. After allowing some time for the 
fumes of benzine to evaporate, the furs should be 
well beaten and the hairs combed out. Should the 
animal’s head be still attached to the rug it cannot 
of course be washed in the machine, but must be 
cleaned by hand with a brush. Thorough rinsing is 
imperative. After the skins have been well evapo¬ 
rated, they should be beaten and combed. Skins 
that have cotton interlining should be ripped apart, 
before cleaning as the cotton soaks up much benzine 
and thereby wastes expensive material, and because 
it likewise harbors dust and often vermin. A thor¬ 
ough beating and a good steaming will clean the 
cotton, which must of course be sewed into the skin 
after it has been cleaned. 

Furs and skins that are very dirty must be wet 
cleaned, and should also be beaten, repaired, and 
have the lining ripped off, the latter to be dry-cleaned, 
and then sewed on again. For wet-cleaning five 
baths will be required. The first and second baths 
consist of a 30 to 40 per cent, solution of soda 
(warm), the third of lukewarm water, the fourth of 
cold water, and the fifth is a rinsing bath. The soap 
used should be of the best quality, the suds being 
employed warm. The skins are taken up separately, 
immersed in the first bath, then spread upon the 
table and washed by hand with the soapsuds. Dur¬ 
ing the first washing the soap will be apt to break on 
the fur from coming in contact with the alum. The 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 


213 


soap should be brushed off, the skin taken through 
bath I, wrung out and washed again until it appears 
clean and the soap no longer cakes. After this it is 
taken through the successive baths. After all the 
skins have been cleaned, they are shaken, then 
placed for five minutes in a potassium permanganate 
solution, taken out, and once more shaken and either 
taken through weak sulphuric acid, or exposed for 
about six hours in the sulphur chamber. After the 
sulphur treatment the skins must be rinsed in luke¬ 
warm clean water and alumed in a weak sulphuric 
acid bath, then once more rinsed in running water, 
and finally dried. 

After undergoing all these processes, the skins 
have lost much of their substance, consequently the 
following treatment will be necessary to restore them. 
According to the number of pieces to be treated, a 
mixture of I part alum and 1 part common salt 
and bran will be required. This mixture is to be 
applied to the skin side of the furs, thoroughly 
rubbed in, and after being folded over the furs must 
be left in a cool place for forty-eight hours. The 
best way is to wrap them in a linen cloth and place 
them in a wooden vessel. After forty-eight hours 
they should be taken out and spread out with the fur 
side exposed to the sun and thus allowed to dry. 
After they are dry they should be worked over an 
iron (the so-called half-moon). This treatment will 
render them soft. Next they must be beaten and 
perhaps combed—curly skins, however, must not be 
combed. 


214 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

Where the skin has a head attached wet-cleaning 
is out of the question, for the water would dissolve 
the glue. White skins are best cleaned with benzine 
and talcum. Furs which are to be freed from moths 
and moth eggs without being cleaned should be 
exposed in the sulphur chamber. 

Many furs cannot stand wet-cleaning, being in¬ 
clined to split and crack and drop their hair. Such 
skins come from over-fat animals or from such as 
have died of some disease; or they have been glued 
together ; in any case they are difficult to distinguish 
from perfect ones until handled. It is better to clean 
such furs and skins cold, or to use benzine soap or 
benzine, and to clean them rapidly. Drying on the 
half-moon is also not advisable in this case. Neither 
should such skins be wrung out, but rather dried flat. 
Another method for treating skins is as follows: To 
keep the leather from becoming hard or from break¬ 
ing, rub it well with clarified fish oil. Damp com¬ 
mon salt well rubbed in also keeps the leather in 
good condition. Furs thus treated must be cleaned 
with cold soap baths and well rinsed. Polar bear 
and Angora skins which have been bleached with 
hydrogen or sodium peroxide should be treated in 
this manner. The bleach should not be excessively 
warm, as too much heat will affect the leather. 

Skins cleaned with benzine must not be shaken 
too hard, it being well to allow them to retain a little 
benzine. They should then be laid, skin-side down, 
on a table and thoroughly rubbed down with talcum, 
which will restore to the fur its former freshness. 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 


215 


To soften hard and very dirty skins proceed as 
follows : First of all never wet-clean them, but after 
ripping off all linings, sponge with benzine, taking 
care not to rub against the fur. After the worst dirt 
has been removed the skin should be placed in a 
long trough, and a sufficient quantity of wheat flour 
poured over it and worked well into the fur. After 
an hour or so the skin is taken out, care being had 
not to shake out too much of the flour; it is next 
hung up in the open air and beaten on both sides 
with a carpet beater. The wrong side is then oiled 
and the skin allowed to remain in this state for 24 
hours. Should it. still be hard, draw it over a perch¬ 
ing knife; sift the remaining flour and keep it for 
another time if it is not too badly soiled. 

Ladies’ and gentlemen’s fur collars should be 
washed in lukewarm suds, to which has been added 
a little ammonia, rinsed first in lukewarm water, next 
in cold water, and then finished in the usual way. 
White furs and boas are best cleaned in the machine 
with benzine and talcum. 

Sheepskins , such as rugs, perambulator aprons, 
etc., are preferably washed with benzine soap, and in 
at least four cases out of five wet-washing can be 
entirely avoided. The goods are brushed over with 
a strong solution of benzine soap, and then run 
through the washing machine for from 30 to 45 min¬ 
utes. The subsequent rinsing with benzine should 
be very thorough, or the wool will retain a greasy 
feel. 

If the wool is very dirty and has been much felted 


2 16 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


by long wear, the skin must be wet-washed. The 
first thing is to take out the stuffing. The skins are 
then soaked in soft water for a time, and then spread 
out, and the coarser dirt is removed with a weak 
liquor of soda and ammonia. Then wring and work 
by hand with a good neutral soap. It is unneces¬ 
sary to use brushes, as the fingers can get down to 
the leather more easily and quickly than a brush. 
More and more soap is poured over the goods till 
the lather remains quite white. As long as there is 
dirt and grease in the wool, the lather will feel 
sticky, and have a gray color. 

Before each addition of fresh soap it is a good 
plan to rinse with weak soda, whereby considerable 
saving in soap is effected. The final rinsing, after 
completion of the washing, is done first with soda, 
and then with clean water. 

The whole series of operations is carried out on a 
bench on which the skins can be spread out flat. 

After rinsing we come, with white skins, to the 
bleaching. Dyed skins must be soured to liven the 
color, using sulphuric acid for those which have been 
acid dyed, and acetic acid for those dyed with basic 
dyes. 

Bleaching may be effected by means of potassium 
permanganate, sodium peroxide, or sulphurous acid, 
the latter being on the whole the best. In bleaching 
with a sulphur chamber no rinsing is necessary, as the 
more soap there is in the wool, the better the fumes 
of the burning sulphur act, but no dirty soap must 
be left behind in the wool. 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 


21 7 


For bleaching with potassium permanganate a 
dark reddish-violet solution is made with the per¬ 
manganate and water, and the skin stirred in it for 20 
to 30 minutes, when it assumes a dirty brown color. 
It is then removed, drained and immersed in a strong 
solution of sulphurous acid. If this bath is too weak, 
the skins will turn yellow all over or in places in the 
course of the next few weeks. The skins are finally 
rinsed, first with very dilute sulphuric acid, and then 
with water to remove all trace of acid, and then dried. 

With the use of sodium peroxide, all contact with 
metals except lead must be avoided. For every 100 
lbs. of goods take 140 gallons of cold water soured 
with 10 lbs. of sulphuric acid, and slowly stir 7 lbs. 
of the peroxide into the acid liquid. A test is then 
made with litmus paper, and if the bath is not neu¬ 
tral it must be made so by adding more peroxide or 
more acid as the case may be. Four pounds of 
silicate of soda of 45 0 Be. are then diluted with a large 
quantity of water and added to the bath. Now enter 
the goods and raise the temperature to not exceed¬ 
ing go° F. during one hour. Keep at the same tem¬ 
perature for another hour or two, lift, sour in very 
weak sulphuric acid—about 1 lb. of acid in 140 gal¬ 
lons of water—rinse repeatedly in water, give a light 
soap bath, centrifuge, and dry. 

As centrifuging does not dry the leather which 
would become hard in the drying room if placed in 
it very wet, the skin must be gone over with a 
special blunt knife to squeeze the water out as much 
as possible. Work with the knife towards the edge 


218 . DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

from the middle, and let the edges hang down for 
the water to drip from them. Repeat this once or 
twice, drying a little in the drying room in the in¬ 
tervals. 

Soap washing of skins should not be done at a 
temperature above yo° F. Drying is effected at yo° 
to 75 0 F. in a drying room, or in the open air. The 
skins are stretched on a frame under tension. If in 
spite of ail care, the leather stiffens and becomes 
hard, rub a little oil well into it as soon as it is quite 
dry. Another and very excellent way of removing 
most of the moisture left after centrifuging is to 
stretch the fur, hair down, flat on a table, and clamp 
it down. It is then covered to a depth of about half 
an inch with a mixture of equal weights of alum, 
common salt and meal. This absorbs nearly all the 
water, and after lying for about six hours can be 
scraped off. The skins of small articles can be kept 
soft by working them over a blunt knife-edge a few 
times during the drying. Very much tendered skins 
can sometimes be successfully washed and dyed if 
sewn for the time being on a piece of strong calico. 
The above-mentioned after-treatment with common 
salt and alum is quite unnecessary if stearine is well 
rubbed into the leather before the wet washing, but 
in this case the dried skins must be chemically 
washed to remove the stearine. 

A method for cleaning furs, such as muffs, collars , 
etc., which answers well even with white astrachans, 
is as follows: The furs have first of all to be made 
absolutely dry, as otherwise the subsequent treat- 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 2ig 

ment with benzine would be useless. In fur gar¬ 
ments, not only the fur itself obstinately retains 
water, but water is also retained by cotton, wool, 
feathers and other accessories so frequently associ¬ 
ated with furs in the shape of padding or ornament, 
and these also greedily absorb moisture from the air 
and retain it with great tenacity. However dry the 
goods may appear when received by the cleaner, 
they should be dried slowly at a moderate tempera¬ 
ture. 

When the goods are quite dry, all linings, whether 
of silk, half-silk or cotton, are thoroughly brushed 
over with benzine soap. They then get a benzine 
bath, in which a little soap has been dissolved, and 
are again brushed and twice rinsed, wringing well 
between the first and second rinse. They are then 
centrifuged. 

If they are not quite clean at this stage, they re¬ 
turn to the benzine bath, one or two turns are given, 
and they are again centrifuged. Care must be taken 
in centrifuging to get the speed up gradually, but at 
the last to use the maximum velocity obtainable. In 
this way, not only is the greatest possible amount of 
benzine saved for redistillation and further use, but 
solid impurities which the benzine has not dissolved 
are prevented from lodging in the fiber. After cen¬ 
trifuging, the goods are worked for about ten min¬ 
utes in warm starch powder. The ‘starch absorbs 
nearly all the still-adhering benzine, so that when 
the goods are afterwards hung up to dry, the drying 
process is very rapid, even at a low temperature, 


220 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

This is the ideal method of drying. A low tempera¬ 
ture which will not turn the goods yellow and re¬ 
quires little steam, does the work quickly so that 
time and fuel are both saved. The starch has the 
further advantage of giving luster to the furs, and 
improves the handle, that is, the feel of the goods. 

Powdered gypsum is occasionally used instead of 
starch. It is of course far cheaper than starch, but 
its use cannot be recommended for any but the very 
cheapest class of goods, as the benzine left in the 
fabric causes the gypsum to impart to the furs a 
gritty feel. 

After starching the goods are dried with as much 

_ • 

starch adhering to them as possible. The advisabil¬ 
ity of carrying out this drying in the sun, when it 
can possibly be done, cannot be too strongly insisted 
upon, especially with high-class furs. No matter 
how carefully the drying-room is managed, the furs 
leaving it are always inferior in softness and fulness 
of handle to those which have been dried in the open 
air. When the goods are quite dry, the starch is re¬ 
moved, first by gently beating, and then by thorough 
brushing. The brushes used must be soft and abso¬ 
lutely clean. They should be wrapped in clean 
paper and stored away where no dust can get to 
them when they are not in use, and should them¬ 
selves be free from starch powder before being put 
away. 

DYEING. White sheepskins have to be dyed in 
every imaginable color; furs proper are usually 
dyed grey, brown, blue or deep black. If a colored 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 


221 


fur has to be re-dyed after cleaning, it is well in 
order to make sure of getting the original color, to 
cut away a little of the hair which seems to show 
that color best before cleaning, and dye to it as a 
sample. 

To increase the affinity of cleaned skins for dye¬ 
stuffs it is a good plan to immerse them for several 
hours in a cold, clear solution of bleaching powder. 
They are then rinsed in dilute sulphuric acid, an ex¬ 
cess of which must be subsequently neutralized if 
the rugs are to be dyed with basic colors, the latter 
being generally employed with or without the addi¬ 
tion of Glauber’s salt to the dye bath. When acid 
colors are employed it is advisable to substitute 
formic acid for sulphuric acid and Glauber’s salt. 
The temperature should not exceed 95 0 F. at which 
the dyeing takes from one to two hours. 

Lamb recommends the following acid dye stuffs: 
Fast Red, Azo Fuchsine, Acid Brown, Old Gold G, 
Quinoline Yellow, Alkaline Blue, Acid Green, Naph- 
thol Green, Silver Gray N, Naphthylamine Black. 

Cassella & Co. recommend the following patented 
process for dyeing with acid dyestuffs. The skins, 
well cleansed with soap, are rinsed in water and dip¬ 
ped in a solution containing chromium oxychloride 
1.8 ozs., basic sulphate of alumina 3.6 ozs., common 
salt 3.6 ozs., acetate of soda (crystallized) 5.4 ozs., 
per 22 gallons water. 

After leaving the skins for a few hours in this 
liquor which is sufficient for ten skins, the leather is 
tested by cutting, to see whether it has been properly 


22 2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


saturated by the liquor; if this be the case, another 
3.6 ozs. chromium oxychloride are added, and the 
skins are left in the liquor for 24 to 36 hours, being 
occasionally turned. They are then lifted, thor¬ 
oughly rinsed, and centrifuged. They are then 
entered into a cold bath of 1 ^ pints hydrochloric 
acid per 22 gallons of water, where they are left for 
a quarter of an hour, and are then put in a clear 
bleaching-powder bath. After having been worked 
in the liquor for 20 minutes, pint hydrochloric 
acid is added, and they are then worked for a further 
10 minutes. They are then put back for another 
quarter hour in the first bath of hydrochloric acid, 
which has in the meantime been strengthened by 
the addition of a pint of acid. The skins are then 
well rinsed. To the last, lukewarm rinsing water, 
3 to 4^2 ozs. of hyposulphite of soda per 10 gallons 
are added, which is followed by a final thorough 
rinsing. After centrifuging, the skins may be dyed 
with any acid dyestuff in baths up to 167° F. with¬ 
out fear of damaging the leather. The dyestuffs 
must, however, be added slowly, and the temperature 
must be low in the beginning, slowly rising to 
167° F. 

Independent of the coal-tar &yvs>,gray can be dyed 
by mordanting for from 2 to 4 hours in a bath con¬ 
taining from 30 to 70 grains of sulphate of copper per 
quart, and then dyeing in a fresh bath with logwood, 
shading if necessary with fustic or methylene blue. 
Fine grays can be obtained in every variety of shade 
in a tannin and iron bath. For browns and blacks it 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 223 

is best to use the various dyes especially intended 
for furs, such as the ursols. The latter are not dye¬ 
stuffs in the ordinary sense of the word, but so-called 
oxidation colors, i. e., colors which are developed 
upon the animal fiber by a treatment with oxidizing 
agents, such as iron chloride, permanganates, bichro¬ 
mates, hydrogen peroxide, etc. The ursols are used 
as follows: Mordant in a bath containing from 30 to 
62 grains of bichromate, 15 to 30 grains of tartar, 
and 5 to 6 grains of sulphate of copper per quart. 
Then rinse slightly and dye with the proper brand 
of ursol, according as a blue-black or deep-black is 
wanted. Other brands are used for brown, and also 
pyrogallic acid which gives light shades with a yel¬ 
lowish tinge. A still better mordant for black than 
that given above is made with 23 grains of sulphate 
of iron, 7*^ grains of sulphate of copper and 15 
grains of tartar per quart of water. Many furs con¬ 
tain bristles which must be killed. The killing liquid 
is made by dissolving 2 ozs. of sal ammoniac and y 
oz. of sulphate of alumina in 2 quarts of hot water. 
The solution is then stirred into a mixture of 4 quarts 
of water and 7 ozs. of quicklime. It is kept covered 
up and applied to the hair side with a brush. It 
must on no account touch the leather. After drying, 
the dust is beaten out of the fur, and the dyeing is 
proceeded with. 

Fur cuffs and other accessories to garments should 
be treated with the mordant, dye, etc., with a brush 
and not in the bath. Like all fur dyes, the ursols 
are used with hydrogen peroxide, neutralizing the 


2 24 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

acid mixed with the peroxide with a little soda or 
ammonia. With blacks care must be taken, how¬ 
ever, not to make the bath too alkaline, or the bleach 
will have a brown shade. For browns, bleaching" 
powder can be used instead of the peroxide. 

The ursols have their drawbacks as well as their 
advantages. They are poisonous, and often seriously 
affect persons who work with them continuously for 
long periods. It is obvious that goods dyed with 
ursols must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent injury 
to the wearer of the fur. Badly rinsed dyeings also 
rub off a great deal. It is a good plan to follow up 
the rinsing with a bath of sulphate of copper—15 
grains per quart—for an hour or two. 

Combing after drying improves the appearance of 
many furs. Thibets and curly skins must of course 
not be combed. In some cases the dried skins are 
revolved with warm sand or sawdust in drums in 
order to clean away any extraneous dye, etc., which 
may be clinging superficially to the skins or the 
hairs. 

As there is great variation in the size and weight 
of the skins, as well as in the quantity of hair at¬ 
tached to them, it is next to impossible to give 
definite quantities of dyestuffs and the following re¬ 
ceipts are rather given for general guidance than for 
exact application. The best general rule to follow 
is to start with small quantities and add more if re¬ 
quired, as shown by the dyeing operation. 

1. Black 071 skhis. a. Dye in a lukewarm bath 
containing 2 lbs. logwood extract for every 8 gallons 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 


225 


and the necessary quantity of turmeric or fustic. 
After about two hours, lift, add to the bath 6 or 7 
ozs. of sulphate of copper per 8 gallons; re-enter, 
work another hour, lift, and rinse. Then partly dry 
the fur in dry, warm sawdust, nail it to a board, hair 
downwards, give the skin a slight rubbing with 
glycerine, and leave to dry. Supple the dried skin 
by stretching and beating. Finally comb the hairs 
with a clean oily comb. To prevent any injury to 
the skin, the temperature should never exceed 85° 
or 95 0 F. throughout the operation. 

b. Logwood extract 50 lbs., fustic 9 lbs., copper 
acetate 5 lbs. dissolved in water 80 gallons. Main¬ 
tain the bath at a temperature of 104° F. Enter the 
skins and allow them to remain in this liquor for 3 to 
4 hours. Then add 1 y 2 gallons of black iron liquor 
and keep the goods in the solution until black, an 
immersion for 30 to 40 hours being usually required. 

c. Logwood extract 30 parts, sumac extract 20 
parts, copper acetate 4 parts, iron liquor 10 parts. 

d. Ursol D gives a deep black. Prepare a mor¬ 
danting bath of 10 quarts of water with ^ to 1 
ozs. potassium bichromate, and % to ozs. tartar. 
Heat the bath to about 77 0 F., and lay the fur down 
in it for 12 hours; then rinse lightly and hydro-ex¬ 
tract. Then prepare a dye bath of 10 quarts water 
at 77 0 to 90° F. with to 1 oz. Ursol D, enter the 
furs and after dyeing for 2 hours, add 8 ozs. to 1 lb. 
hydrogen peroxide and lay down upon it the goods 
for about 10 hours longer, turning occasionally. 
Finally rinse in water. 

15 


226 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


e. A deep blue black especially suitable for angora 
skins is obtained with Ursol D D. It is dyed with¬ 
out any mordant in a bath containing for 10 quarts, 
Y oz. Ursol D D and 17 ozs. hydrogen peroxide. 
Proceed in the same manner as stated for Ursol D, 
which may also be employed in a stronger bath. 

For tipping furs with black , Ursol D is used. 
Dissolve Y oz * °* Ursol D in 1 ]/ 2 quarts of water, 
and add to the solution just before using it, 17 ozs. 
of hydrogen peroxide. 

Apply the solution by means of a brush, then put 
the skins, hair upon hair, let them lie in that con¬ 
dition for several honrs in a cool place, and then dry 
them. 

2. Brown on skins, a. Very dark brown. Make 
a bath by dissolving 2 lbs. of paraphenylene diamine 
in 10 lbs. of methylated spirit. When solution is 
complete add 1 gallon of water. Just before use add 
to the bath a solution of 1 lb. bichromate of potash 
in 2 gallons of water. Apply the complete solutions 
with a soft brush. In from 15 to 20 minutes the 
color is fixed, and the fur is then rinsed with a damp 
sponge, and dried. Hydrogen peroxide may be 
used instead of the bichromate. 

b. Medium to dark brown. Prepare a bath of 10 
quarts water, oz. Ursol D, 1 oz. Ursol P, 1 oz. 
pyrogallic acid, 17 ozs. hydrogen peroxide, and 1^/3 
ozs. ammonia. 

Mordant the skins with to 1 y 2 ozs. potassium 
bichromate and Y to 1 oz. of cream of tartar in 10 
quarts of water. Then bring them into the dye bath. 


FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 227 

Sample after 3 hours for a medium shade, and repeat 
the sampling from time to time according to the 
shade desired. A dark brown will be obtained in 
about 18 hours. 

c. Red brown {light shade). Prepare a bath of 10 
quarts water with y oz. Ursol P, 5 ozs. hydrogen 
peroxide, and f oz. ammonia. Place the furs, pre¬ 
viously mordanted as under b , in the bath for 6 
hours, then lift and dry. 

3. Chestnut on skins. Prepare a bath by dissolving 
2 lbs. amindol in 10 lbs. methylated spirit. When 
solution is complete, add a solution of about 13 ozs. 
of carbonate of potash in 1 gallon water. Before use 
add to the bath solution of bichromate in water as 
given under very dark brown. This applies also to 
the following: 

4. Russet on skins. As given for chestnut, but use 
only half the quantity of potash and substitute for 
the amindol the same amount of paramidophenol. 

5. Golden 071 skins. A pale golden-yellow is ob¬ 
tained in a bath made with 1 lb. of carbonate of 
potash, 2 lbs. pyrogallic acid, x / 2 gallon water, and 

1 ]/ 2 gallons methylated spirit. 

6. Silver gray on skins. Prepare the dye bath with 

2 parts of Nigrosine and 20 parts of Glauber’s salt. 

7. Scarlet on skins. Prepare the dye bath with 2 
parts Azo cochineal, 10 parts Glauber’s salt and 2 
parts sulphuric acid. 

8. Orange on skins. Prepare the dye bath with 1 
part Crocein orange, 10 parts Glauber’s salt and 2 
parts sulphuric acid. This gives a full bright shade. 


228 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


9. Bright green on skins. Make the dye bath with 
1 part Green crystals Y, part Auramine, and 10 
parts Glauber’s salt. 

10. Maroon on skins. Use for the dye bath 1 part 
Magenta, 10 parts Glauber’s salt, and a little Nile 
blue. 

The skins, etc., when cleaned and dyed have to be 
dried and for this purpose should be stretched so as 
to prevent shrinkage which causes them to become 
hard. While drying they should occasionally be 
shaken to open out the fiber and prevent matting. 
When dry the fiber side should be well brushed to 
separate the fibers as much as possible. It is also 
advisable for the purpose of softening the skins to 
rub the flesh side with a little castor-oil or a mixture 
of castor-oil and yolk of egg. 


VI. 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 

Cleaning. Feathers which have been previously 
dyed and simply require cleaning, are best washed in 
a weak luketvarm soap bath, made by dissolving a 
piece of good castile soap in warm water, well work¬ 
ing and drawing through the fingers or hands; and 
finally rinsing them in soft warm water. The soap 
liquor should not be too warm, a hand-heat being 
quite sufficient. Too hot a liquor might result in 
taking some of the color off the feathers which would 
necessitate redyeing. Pale-colored feathers should 
be treated in a very weak and cold soap bath. A 
little ammonia added to the bath is beneficial. 

Blacks, browns, and most ordinary dark colors, 
can often be brightened by an immersion for ten to 
twenty minutes in a warm decoction of logwood, fol¬ 
lowed by rinsing ; this will usually be sufficient prep¬ 
aration for the dressing and drying processes. Dry 
cleaning processes are of little use in treating feath¬ 
ers, but the feathers may be chemically purified. For 
this purpose they should be placed in a somewhat 
long and narrow china basin containing benzine and 
raw potato starch, which is insoluble in the liquid, 
and the feathers moved about rapidly in this bath. 
This mixture serves to dissolve the fatty and other 

( 229) 


230 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

obnoxious' materials on the feathers. These impuri¬ 
ties pass into the solvent, and the feathers are after¬ 
wards taken out and dried, the starch being removed 
by shaking them out. After having been cleaned as 
systematically as possible, the feathers should be 
brushed, and finally dried in the open air, if possible. 
They must be exposed until all the benzine smell has 
disappeared. 

The dressing of feathers consists in passing them 
several times in a liquor of raw (unboiled) potato 
starch, then pressing them carefully and evenly be¬ 
tween two sheets of clean white blotting, or filtering, 
paper, or linen cloth. The passing of the feathers 
through the liquor may be repeated as many as 
eight or more times. Feathers and articles made of 
feathers, such as boas, stoles, etc., which have been 
cleaned or dyed have a very bedraggled appearance 
when wet, the hairs or “flues” of the feathers being 
matted together. To open up the flues the feathers 
are dipped in cold water containing starch or farina. 
After drying in the open air or by means of artificial 
heat, the starch is gently beaten or shaken out, and 
the flues open up to their original condition, and are 
ready for curling. 

Natural white feathers are re-whitened by half an 
hour’s careful treatment in a tepid soap bath, after 
which they must be thoroughly washed in a fresh warm 
soap bath with a strong lather. They subsequently 
have to be washed three times in a warm water 
bath, and then placed for about a quarter of an hour 
in a weak, clear, and cold oxalate of potash or am- 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 


231 


monia bath, and afterwards passed through a weak 
solution of Prussian or Paris blue, in order to neutral¬ 
ize the yellow tone produced through the action of 
the cleaning agents. 

The feathers are next pressed between blotting 
paper, and dried in the open air. Raw white feathers 
must be first thoroughly freed from fatty matters by 
means of strong soap and alkaline solutions, and 
this treatment is especially required when the feathers 
have to be dyed, as otherwise an even color cannot 
be obtained. The quills should be separately treated 
previous to the cleaning process. This treatment 
consists simply in rubbing them with a solution of 
bicarbonate of ammonia or oxalate of ammonia. 
Thorough working in benzine is also good for re¬ 
moving grease from new feathers. 

Sometimes good white feathers or feathers which 
are to be dyed in pale tints require bleaching. This 
can be done by burning sulphur or by preparing a 
bath of hydrogen peroxide, adding a little ammonia 
to make it alkaline, steeping the feathers in this over 
night, and the next day heating to about 150° F., 
and allowing to steep for some hours in the warm 
bath, after which they require only rinsing. If not 
sufficiently bleached, repeat the treatment. Feathers 
which are to be dyed black, or dark greens or browns, 
need only to be scoured simply in a tepid soda bath 
to remove grease ; then before dyeing with the de¬ 
coctions of the dyewoods, they are mordanted with 
a solution of pernitrite of iron. 

Dyeing. Before proceeding to deal with the dye- 


232 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

ing process for feathers, it is necessary to say a few 
words in regard to the utensils which can be used with 
safety and with the greatest practical advantage for 
these operations. A knowledge of the chemical com¬ 
position of the various articles used by the dyer is 
most desirable not only by those who supervise the 
work as a whole, but also by the individual operator. 
He should be well acquainted with the chemical and 
mechanical action of the various chemicals and mate¬ 
rials used on the feathers to be dyed. The color 
shades got in many instances are of a totally differ¬ 
ent tint from that which was intended to be pro¬ 
duced, and the actual cause is either to be found in 
the action of chemicals used for mordanting and 
dyeing, and possibly for cleaning the feathers, or in 
the quality of the water used, or in the injudicious 
choice of mordanting and dyeing materials, or using 
one or other of these in too large quantities, to say 
nothing of adding wrong materials. As feathers be¬ 
long to the category of animal products, like wool 
and silk, they can only be dyed in full shades by the 
use of a somewhat high temperature, but boiling 
heat need only be used for dark colors, and it is best 
to keep the heat as low as possible. 

When feathers are boiled while in the dye-bath, 
the ebullition of heat seems to have a tendency to 
open the pores of the fibers, and thus allow a free 
access to' the interior of the feather by the mordants 
or dyes. If desirable, the mordants can be used be¬ 
fore or after the actual dyeing operations. It is, in 
many cases, very advantageous to use the mordant 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 233 

before dyeing as well as concurrently with the dye. 
The application of too large a quantity of mordant 
must, on the other hand, be avoided, as in using iron 
and bichromate mordants such excesses are likely to 
produce rusty greenish or gray hues. Another very 
important point demanding attention is the fact that 
the finer the feather the more dye is required for the 
production of the desired shades. This is one of the 
greatest difficulties to be encountered by the dyer, for 
it is no easy task to decide at once how large a quan¬ 
tity is necessary to produce the desired shade. 

For light colors a strong and finely glazed china 
basin of a white color is best adapted for dyeing. 
Metal utensils can be used, but the former are best 
for delicate colors, and a sufficient amount of heat 
can be produced by means of a water-bath. The 
inside of the vessel should, however, be as light as 
possible, and the application and additions of dyes 
effected with the utmost caution. 

The color tones can be accurately discerned and 
regulated in such a white basin. If perfectly enam¬ 
eled metal basins are used, the action of the chemi¬ 
cals cannot affect the enamel, and the penetration to 
the metal itself is almost an impossibility. 

The temperature can be regulated by using a water 
bath, and can be maintained at 167° to 176° F., 
which is quite sufficient for pale tints. Boiling heat 
is, on the other hand, usually required in producing 
dark colors for shades on feathers, and copper vessels 
or kettles with a double bottom are best adapted for 
the purpose. These utensils are sometimes heated 


234 DRY cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

by being placed on hot plates, and a continuous 
heat is thereby maintained during the process of 
the operations. 

Well-enameled vessels of an oblong shape are best 
to use, as these are especially adapted for placing 
the feathers in full length without any bending. 

For all colors except black and a few light colors, 
the acid coal-tar colors should if possible be used. 
Feathers dyed with these colors, after being once or 
twice rinsed, are finally drawn through a bath acidu¬ 
lated with sulphuric acid and then dried. 

With ostrich feathers or large fancy feathers, the 
addition of coloring matter is best effected by plac¬ 
ing the articles in a sieve, or a willow-ware basket, 
since if they remained in the kettle they would break 
and tear in consequence of the necessarily rapid hand¬ 
ling, and besides would spot. The dissolved color¬ 
ing matter is added to the dye-bath, stirred, and the 
sieve or basket containing the feathers is placed in it. 

For smaller fancy articles, such as chicken feathers 
and small wings, the addition of the coloring matter 
is effected as follows: Bring the dissolved coloring- 
matter into a copper pan which holds i to 3 quarts 
and is provided with a long handle. Fill the pan 
with dye-bath or water and quickly plunge it, whilst 
constantly stirring the feathers, into the kettle, empty¬ 
ing it on the bottom. A better, but more trouble¬ 
some, method is as follows: Pour one-third or one- 
half of the dye-bath through a sieve into a kettle, so 
that the feathers remain behind ; then add the color¬ 
ing-matter, stir thoroughly, and return the whole, 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 235 

with constant stirring of the feathers, to the kettle. 
In this manner a very uniform and rapid distribution 
of the coloring-matter is effected. 

The dyeing of fancy feathers differs in several re¬ 
spects from that of ostrich feathers. 

The portions of birds, such as the goose, duck, 
kingfisher, penguin, pelican, etc., used in the manu¬ 
facture of ornamental feathers, require for dark colors 
a greater affinity for the coloring-matters than they 
naturally possess. This is produced by the addition 
of sulphate of sodium (Glauber’s salt) to the acidu¬ 
lated dye-bath, bisulphite of sodium being thereby 
formed, in consequence of which the fiber is more 
disintegrated and absorbs the coloring-matter more 
uniformly and to a greater degree. 

Moreover, the feathers of the above-mentioned 
birds require greater heat, and may gently boil for 
y or ]/ 2 hour. But this cannot be done with articles 
containing portions of flesh, sinews, or skin, since 
they would dissolve and the articles fall to pieces. 
For skins, birds, heads, wings, tails, etc., the heat 
employed should also not exceed 167° F. In such 
cases the advantage of greater heat must be com¬ 
pensated by the greater strength of the bath. 

Ostrich feathers are tied together by the lower 
ends of the quills in bundles of from 3 to 5 and 30 
to 40 of such bundles strung together. 

Dyeing Ostrich Feathers. 

1. Cleaning, a. Large feathers. The feathers 
are soaked in a strong solution of castile soap at 


236 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

ioo° F., for one hour, or, still better, over night, and 
then washed upon a washboard for 10 minutes. 
They are then brought into a weak soda-bath of the 
above-mentioned temperature and treated in the 
same manner. The entire manipulation is then re¬ 
peated with fresh baths, when the feathers are thor¬ 
oughly rinsed, drawn through a bath acidulated with 
sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 

b. Feathers in bulk . For 10 lbs. of ostrich feathers 
prepare a bath of 5 lbs. of crystallized soda dissolved 
in 50 quarts of water, and add a small quantity of 
ammonia. Heat the bath to iOO° F., introduce the 
feathers, and allow them to remain for 4 to 10 hours. 
Cover the vessel with a lid fitting in it, so that the 
feathers remain completely submerged. Then wash 
the feathers piece by piece upon a washboard, rub¬ 
bing them quite strongly. Then treat them in a 
second bath of 7 lbs. of crystallized soda and a little 
ammonia, though they need not remain in this bath as 
long as in the first. After again washing, the feathers 
are several times rinsed in cold water and then in 
warm water, drawn through a lukewarm bath acidu¬ 
lated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 

2. Decolorizing. The feathers cleansed in the 
above-described manner are laid flat in a bath of 50 
per cent, peroxide of hydrogen, 3 per cent, ammonia, 
and 47 per cent, water heated to ioo° F. The am¬ 
monia is added after the bath has acquired the above- 
indicated temperature. A glass or stoneware vessel 
should be used for the bath. Work the feathers 
thoroughly in the bath, let them rest a moment, and 


CLEANING AND DYEING LEATHERS. 237 

work again. Then allow them to rest y 2 hour, and 
work once more. 

The bath should be protected from the light, and, 
while resting, the feathers must remain submerged. 
This is effected by placing a lid fitting in the vessel 
upon the feathers, and loading it with a stone. 

When the bath is perceptibly exhausted, i. e ., when 
the bleaching process no longer progresses, the 
feathers are taken out and the treatment above de¬ 
scribed is repeated with a fresh bath. The originally 
gray or black feathers will finally appear white. 
They are then taken out, rinsed in several waters, 
and finally drawn through a bath quite strongly 
acidulated with sulphuric acid. They are then again 
rinsed, and have now the ground required for all 
light colors. If they are to be used white, they are 
slightly blued. 

3. Degreasing. After cleansing the feathers ac¬ 
cording to the directions given under 1 b f they are 
brought into a bath which, for 10 lbs. of black 
ostrich feathers, is prepared as follows: Pour into a 
stoneware vessel of 100 quarts capacity 75 quarts of 
cold water, then add the solution of 10 lbs. of chro¬ 
mate of potassium, and finally 5 lbs. of pure sul¬ 
phuric acid of 66°. After stirring thoroughly, lay 
the feathers flat in the bath, turn them over, and 
cover the vessel. They are then turned over every 
hour until the natural color is uniformly stripped off 
and the feathers show a light color. 

Care must be taken not to allow the feathers to re¬ 
main in the bath longer than necessary for the re- 


238 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

moval of the natural color, and also not to keep the 
bath too hot. In both cases the feathers are attacked 
and may very easily become entirely worthless. The 
heat should not exceed 89° F. The feathers are 
now rinsed in two cold, and several warm, baths. 
The warm rinsing baths being used for the purpose 
of more rapidly removing the potassium, the feathers 
are left in them for some time. When the chromate 
of potassium has been completely removed, the 
feathers are worked in an oxalic acid bath for 
hour and rinsed. They are then worked in a bath of 
2 lbs. of castile soap, and rinsed in several warm 
baths. The feathers are now sufficiently prepared for 
the uniform reception of all medium and dark colors. 
Gray ostrich feathers require only half the quantity 
of chromate of potassium and sulphuric acid. 

4. White. In case the white of the feathers 
cleaned, according to directions given under 1 a } is 
disfigured by natural brown spots and points, they 
are brought into a bath of ioo° F. to which from 10 
to 20 per cent, of peroxide of hydrogen has been 
added. • They are taken out after half an hour or an 
hour and brought into a bath of 3 per cent, potas¬ 
sium bisulphide heated to iio° F., where they re¬ 
main for half an hour, when they are taken out and 
brought into a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. 
They are then rinsed and drawn through a cold bath 
to which a small quantity of aniline-violet, (6 B) 
dissolved in alcohol, or Maine blue has been added. 

It may be remarked that the more yellowish the 
white appears, the more of a reddish hue the blue to 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 239 

be used should have, otherwise a greenish tint is 
readily produced. 

5. Dyeing black, a. For y 2 lb. of feathers pre¬ 
pare a bath by dissolving 3^ ozs. of calcined soda 
in 50 quarts of water of 86° F. Rub the quills with 
a piece of ammonium carbonate, and place the 
feathers in the soda solution, allowing them to re¬ 
main in it y hour. In place of the soda double the 
quantity of ammonium carbonate may be used and 
the feathers allowed to remain in the bath over night. 

After taking the feathers from the bath, rinse in 
cold water and place them for 5 to 6 hours in a 
nitrate of iron bath of y° B. Then take them out 
and rinse in cold water. Boil 2 lbs. logwood and 4 
lbs. quercitron, and enter the feathers in the luke¬ 
warm bath. 

Work them in the bath just below the boil until 
the black is developed, when they are taken out and 
rinsed in lukewarm water. Finally dissolve 3 y 2 ozs. 
of potash in 6 quarts of water and stir 8 ozs. of oil 
into the solution so that the oil is evenly divided. 
Draw the feathers separately through this bath, allow 
to drain off without squeezing and swing them. 

b. Place the degreased feathers in a cold bath pre¬ 
pared by adding 1 part of red iron liquor (nitrate of 
iron) 41.2° B. to 3 parts water and allow them to 
remain therein over night. Then wash them well, 
using for the last rinse water containing a little 
ammonia. Make up a logwood bath as follows: 
Logwood extract 6 parts, fustic extract 1 part, water 
• 200 parts. Soap may also be added. 


240 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Work the feathers in the bath just below the boil 
until the black is developed. Then rinse them in 
water followed by a warm soap bath. After rinsing 
in warm water place them for 2 or 3 minutes in a 
cold bath of potassium dichromate P er cent, 
solution) and then rinse well. 

c. Black can also be dyed by using for 11 lbs. of 
feathers a bath containing 1 lb. Naphthol Black B, 
2 ozs. Indian Yellow G, 1 y 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, and 

I lb. sulphuric acid. This yields a fine, full, jet 
black, very fast. One advantage of using this 
method over the logwood process is that the feathers 
are left softer and in a better condition for finishing. 

6. Bronze, a. Green. The feathers dyed black 
according to the directions given under 5 a are 
brought into a bath of ioo° F. to which, for every 

II lbs. of feathers, a solution of 7 ozs. T Diamond- 
Fuchsine in large crystals has been added. After 
heating the bath to 167° F., manipulate the feathers 
in it until they show a beautiful, lustrous green- 
bronze. Then take them out and rinse. 

b. Olive. Treat as above with a dye-bath con¬ 
sisting of 3^ ozs. of I a Diamond-Fuchsine and 2 y 2 
ozs. of extra superfine Aniline Violet 6 B. 

c. Gold. Treat as above with a dye-bath consist¬ 
ing of 1^ ozs. of I a Diamond-Fuchsine and 5 ozs. 
of extra superfine Aniline Violet 6 B. 

7. Other colors , including fashionable colors, a. 
Cream , ivory. Naturally white or thoroughly de¬ 
colorized feathers are dyed in a “ hand-heat ” bath 
to which a very small quantity of dissolved Pale 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 241 

Yellow has been added. Final shading according 
to sample is effected with a very small quantity of 
Orange. 

It may here be remarked that all the vessels used 
must be thoroughly cleansed, especially when used 
for light colors. 

b. Rose. Dye the pure white feathers yellowish 
with a very weak solution of Eosin in a neutral bath 
of 167° F. If the sample is bluish, dye bluish with 
Eosin. Final shading according to sample may be 
effected with Pale Yellow. 

c. Salmon. Dye with solution of Eosin and Pale 
Yellow in a neutral bath of 167° F. Shade accord¬ 
ing to sample with both coloring-matters. 

d. Maize , bamboo. Dye the white feathers in a 
bath to which sulphuric acid, Azo yellow, and a little 
Orange have been added, heating up to 190° F. For 
bamboo add a little more orange than for maize. 
Final shading is effected with the above-mentioned 
dye-stuffs, according to sample. 

To all acid dye-baths only so much sulphuric and 
tartaric acids should be added that a small excess is 
perceptible to the taste. 

e. Pale blue. Manipulate for a quarter of a hour 
the cleansed white feathers in a bath to which a weak 
solution of extra superfine, water-soluble Pale Blue 
has been added, heating up to 190° F. Then take 
out the feathers and add to the dye-bath sufficient 
sulphuric acid diluted with cold water to give it 
a slightly acid taste. Then replace the feathers, 
handle them for some time, and, if necessary, add 

16 


242 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


coloring matter until the sample-color has been ob- * 
tained. 

f Butter, bouton d'or, mandarin, coq roche. The 
feathers decolorized, or eventually freed from grease, 
are brought into a bath of 145 0 F. to which some 
sulphuric acid, Azo-yellow, and a little Orange have 
been added. Handle thoroughly and effect final 
shading with the above-mentioned coloring matters. 

For bouton d'or a little Blue may also be em¬ 
ployed; for mandarin quite a considerable quantity 
of Orange ; and for coq roche much Orange and some 
Ponceau. The bath is heated to 200° F. 

g. Parme, heliotrope, prune. The feathers are 
dyed in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid and 
heated to 145 0 F., with Acid Violet R and Acid 
Violet 6 B. According to whether the sample is 
clearer or duller, final shading may also be effected 
with Acid Fuchsine, Fast Red, Ponceau, Orange, 
and, on the other hand, with Pensee Lake and Indigo- 
carmine. Heat to 200° F. 

h. Gold, old gold. White feathers are dyed, ac¬ 
cording to sample, in an acidulated bath at 145 0 F. 
with Azo-yellow, Orange, and Pensee Lake; for the 
latter, Indigo-carmine may be substituted. 

j. Gray. For the paler shades, white feathers are 
taken, and for the darker, feathers freed from fat. 
They are dyed with Aniline-gray, extra superfine, 
and sulphuric acid at 200° F. Shade according to 
sample, with very small additions of Fast Brown, 
Orange, Azo-yellow, etc. 

k. Coquilicot, cardinal. Dye the feathers, either 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 


243 


white or freed from fat, according to sample, with 
sulphuric acid, some saccharic acid, Ponceau, 3 R, 
and Genuine Red, at 200° F. 

/. Garnet. Treat like the preceding, but, accord¬ 
ing to sample, use for yellow tones red coloring- 
matters with a yellow tinge such as Orange, Ponceau 
with Pensee Lake, or Indigo-carmine; and for blue 
tones, coloring-matters with a bluish tinge, such as 
Fast Red, Acid Fuchsine; also Acid Violet, or 
Marine blue. 

m. Beige , tobacco , Siam , and intervening shades. 
Feathers freed from fat may be used. Heat and 
acidity of the bath as usual. Dye with Azo-yellow, 
Orange, and Pensee Lake. For the final shading 
Fast Brown, as well as Fast Red, Ponceau or Indigo- 
carmine may be used as required. 

n. Chartreuse — pale yellow-green. Dye white 
feathers, according to sample, in a bath heated to 
200° F. with sulphuric acid, Azo-green, and Acid 
green. 

0. Cressoji—dull yellow-green. Dye in the ordi¬ 
nary acidulated bath with Azo-yellow, Acid-Green, 
and Aniline-gray, extra superfine, as well as eventu¬ 
ally with some Orange. Heat to 200° F. Shade, 
according to sample, if necessary, with Pensee Lake 
or Indigo-carmine. 

p. Olive. Dye with Azo-yellow, Orange, and 
Acid Green in the acidulated bath at 200° F. Shade, 
if required, with Pensee Lake, Indigo-carmine, and 
also Fast Brown. Feathers freed from grease may 
be used. 


244 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


q. Vesuve y Etna — dull , fiery tones. Dye, accord¬ 
ing to sample, white feathers, or feathers freed from 
grease, in the ordinary bath with sulphuric acid, 
Ponceau, Orange, and eventually Azo-yellow, as well 
as for bluing, with Pensee Lake, Indigo-carmine, or 
Acid Violet. Much red and yellow coloring matters 
give a deep, fiery tone. 

r. Old-rose belongs to the so-called distemper 
colors. Dye in the ordinary bath, according to 
sample, with Genuine Red, Ponceau, or Orange, and 
Pensee Lake. 

The first and the latter coloring matters yield 
bluish tones; Orange and Pensee Lake more yellow¬ 
ish and dull colors. 

s. Navy , admiral. Dye with Pensee Lake, Indigo- 
carmine, and Marine-blue of best quality. Besides 
these coloring matters, final shading may also be 
effected with Acid Violet and Acid Fuchsine. Acid¬ 
ity and heat of the bath as usual. 

t. Russe. Dye in a bath acidulated with sulphuric 
acid with Azo-yellow and Acid Green. Shade with 
Indigo-carmine or Pensee Lake, eventually also with 
Marine-blue, and, to give the tone some warmth, also 
with Orange. Heat to 200° F. 

u. Gray-blue colors. Water-soluble Aniline Pale 
Blue, with Gray, extra superfine, in a bath acidulated 
with sulphuric acid. Shade, according to sample, 
with Acid Violet, Pensee Lake, or Indigo-carmine. 
Acidity and heat as usual. 

v. Green-blue colors. Pale Blue, Acid Green. 
Shade, according to sample, with Azo-yellow, Indigo- 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 245 

carmine, or Pensee Lake, also Orange. Acidity and 
heat of the bath as usual. 

w. Maroon loutre. Dye in the ordinary bath with 
Orange and Pensee Lake. Shade with Azo-yellow, 
Fast Brown, and Indigo-carmine, as well as Marine- 
blue. 

Remarks. From d on, the bath, it not otherwise 
mentioned, is always acidulated with sulphuric and 
tartaric acids, so that a slight excess of them can be 
detected by the taste. The temperature of the bath 
is at first kept at 145 0 F., and in dyeing increased to 
200° F. 

Ombre ( shaded ), tricolored. Dye the feathers the 
palest color of the sample, which is generally on the 
point. Then, for the reception of the second color 
of the sample, stretch the feathers in a frame which 
is effected as follows: — 

Take two strips and place them across the shad¬ 
ing-box described below, so that they project about 
2 inches on each side. The strips may be either of 
wood 1 inches wide and inch thick, or of stout 
sheet copper. One of each pair of strips is provided 
near each end and in the center with copper screws 
which accurately fit into holes in the other strip. 
Cover the strip provided with screws with a rubber 
strip of the same size, and upon the latter place 
feathers alongside one another up to the end screws. 
Now place upon them another rubber strip of the 
same size as the first, and fit the other copper strip 
upon the screws. Then screw both strips together 
by means of strong nuts, so that the intermediate 


246 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

space not occupied by feathers is filled up with 
rubber. 

The entire lot being thus stretched in strips, the 
feathers are taken to the shading-box, which consists 
of a rectangular copper box about 25^2 inches long, 
19 y 2 inches wide, and 3^ inches deep. It is placed 
in an exactly horizontal position over the fire, or a 
steam-pipe is introduced. The box is filled about 
one-quarter full with water, which is acidulated, and 
the required coloring-matter for the second color to 
be dyed is then added. When the dye-bath has 
acquired the required temperature, place the strips 
with the feathers across the box, so that the feathers 
are about three-quarters covered by the dye-bath. 
Now dye at 200° F., occasionally shaking the strips 
with feathers, so that the coloring-matter may pene¬ 
trate as uniformly as possible, and the boundary 
between the two colors be not too sharply defined. 

When the second color has been dyed according 
to sample, the strips are unscrewed and the feathers 
shifted. This is effected by drawing them uniformly 
forward, so that, with the shading box filled to about 
the same depth, the darkest (third) color can be ap¬ 
plied to full one-half the length of the feather. The 
strips being again screwed together, are replaced 
upon the shading-box, the latter now containing the 
darker dye-bath. 

It may here be remarked that for ombre , as well as 
bordc , indigo preparations, such as Indigo-carmine, 
Pensee Lake, as well as Acid Indigo, should as much 
as possible be avoided, they possessing the property 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 247 

of very readily running into the neighboring pale 
color, and thus giving a bad appearance to the 
boundary. Hence, for dark colors it is best to use 
Marine blue, Violet 6 B, or Gray, Acid Green, 
Nigrosine, etc. 

The last color having been dyed, a wide vessel is 
prepared for rinsing. The bath should be slightly 
acidulated and the feathers, stretched in the frame, 
rinsed as far as they project from the latter. The 
object of this is to remove any loosely adhering dark 
coloring-matter before the feathers are removed from 
between the strips, otherwise there might be danger 
of the pale colors of one feather coming in contact 
with the dark color of another. The feathers are 
finally taken from between the strips and thrown into 
an acidulated rinsing bath. When rinsed they are 
taken out, care being taken that the colors of the 
same shade lie alongside one another. The feathers 
are then immediately strung together, swung to and 
fro, and dried. 

9. Borde (bordered feathers'), a. Light mirror , 
dark border. The cleaned naturally white or de¬ 
colorized feathers are dyed in accordance with the 
light mirror of the sample. Three to five of them 
are then placed one upon the other upon a narrow, 
four-cornered stick, so that the quills cover one an¬ 
other, and the latter are firmly tied in three places to 
the stick with twine. When the feathers are spread 
out, their points and side-branches then hang down. 
Now bring hot water into a suitable shallow dish, or. 
for larger lots, into the shading-box, acidulate, and 


248 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

add the coloring matter required for the dark border. 
Then place the stick, to which the feathers are 
secured, over the vessel, so that the feathers dip in 
the dye-bath as far as the border is to extend. After 
dyeing at 200° F., take the feathers out, rinse in an 
acidulated water-bath, draw through starch water, 
swing to and fro, and dry. 

b. Dark mirror , light border. Dry the feathers in 
accordance with the light border of the sample, and 
dry without starching. Then firmly tie several thick¬ 
nesses of paper around the border. The feathers 
thus protected are then dyed in the ordinary manner 
in accordance with the dark mirror of the sample. 
The operation must be performed as rapidly as pos¬ 
sible to prevent the protecting cover of the border 
from soaking through and thus spoiling the latter. 
Then rinse in a clean water-bath, next in one acidu¬ 
lated with sulphuric acid, and, after removing the 
paper, rinse once more. The feathers are then 
strung together, drawn through starch-water, passed 
through the centrifugal, and dried. 

Another method of protecting the first color in 
the second dye-bath is as follows: Take a copper¬ 
plate, similar to those used in shading, but some¬ 
what shorter and wider, and provided only on each 
end with a screw, which should, however, be about 
4 inches long. Several other copper plates of the 
same size as the one above described are required. 
They are, however, only furnished with holes in 
which the screws of the first plate accurately fit. 

Now place the feathers, spread out between two 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 


249 


rubber plates of equal size, and the shape of the por¬ 
tion of the feather to be protected, upon the first 
copper-plate, lay upon it another plate, then a feather 
between rubber-plates, upon this another copper¬ 
plate, and so on alternately as many feathers between 
rubber-plates and copper-plates as the length of the 
screws will permit, Now screw the whole together 
with strong nuts, and dye in accordance with the 
dark mirror of the sample. After dyeing rinse, and 
in the second rinsing water, which should be acidu¬ 
lated, take the feathers from between the plates, 
The feathers are then strung together, drawn through 
starch-water, passed through the centrifugal, and 
dried. 

It is advisable first to soak the rubber-plates in 
hot water, so that they become quite soft. 

The above-described method has the advantage 
that the feathers can be protected wherever desired, 
and by the use of properly shaped rubber-plates any 
required design may be produced. Another method 
of producing contrasting colors—however, without 
any special design—is as follows : Firmly wrap twine 
around the feathers so as to leave a few places free, 
and dye. The places protected by the twine will re¬ 
main colorless, or retain the color previously applied, 
whilst the places left free will show the new color. 
By now freeing about one-half of the protected por¬ 
tion from twine, and partially covering the previously 
applied color, and again dyeing, four different colors 
will be obtained. By thus continuing the manipula¬ 
tion, and carefully choosing the tones so that the 


250 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

colors alongside one another contrast, feathers show¬ 
ing all possible tones may be obtained. 

Feathers may also be dyed in graduating shades, 
beginning at one end with a very pale shade and 
finishing in a dark shade of the same color, as fol¬ 
lows : Prepare a weak dye bath and dye the whole 
feather a pale shade. The bath is then slightly 
strengthened, and three-quarters of the length of 
the feather is dipped in it, and so on, gradually 
strengthening the bath and then immersing less of 
the feather, until only the end is dyed in the last 
bath. The same effect may be produced by the 
following method: Make up the bath sufficiently 
concentrated to dye the dark shade on the end of 
the feather, and reduce the strength in stages by 
diluting with water and immersing more and more 
of the feather. 


Dyeing Fancy Feathers. 

i. Cleaning. With the exception of ostrich 
feathers, the term fancy feathers is applied to all 
kinds of feathers used in the manufacture of orna¬ 
mental feathers, hence including those from nearly 
all kinds of birds. There being considerable differ¬ 
ence in the content of fat, various methods of clean¬ 
ing have to be employed. The treatment in dyeing 
also varies somewhat, since the feathers of many 
birds show a different behavior towards the coloring- 
matters. 

Chicken feathers containing no fat need not be 
washed, at least not for dark colors; they only re- 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 25 I 

quire, before dyeing, to be thoroughly moistened in 
a hot water-bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. 
However, it is recommended to once or twice wash 
all feathers which are to show luster, in a bath of 
castile soap. 

On account of their content of dirt, most fancy 
feathers require thorough washing, which is effected 
as follows : — 

For 11 lbs. of feathers prepare a bath at ioo° F. 
to which add 26^ ozs. of good white soap, thor¬ 
oughly dissolved. Stir the feathers in this bath for 
about 10 minutes, and than let them stand, well 
covered by the bath, for one hour. Then after stir¬ 
ring a little more bring them into a sieve. 

Now prepare a fresh bath of the same temperature, 
to which 3 lbs. of castile soap well dissolved have 
been added. Handle the feathers well in this bath 
and then let them stand for one hour, after which 
they are again thoroughly handled and brought into 
a sieve. They are then passed in succession through 
two baths of ioo° F., to each of which has been 
added 1 lb. of soda well dissolved. They are handled 
10 minutes in each bath. They are then rinsed in 
two cold water-baths, next in one acidulated with 
sulphuric acid, and again rinsed in clean water, when 
they are ready for dyeing. Skins, heads, wings, etc., 
must be more rapidly handled, and are not worked 
in the soda-baths, as the fleshy sinews and skin 
would be dissolved. They are washed for a short 
time in a good soap-bath, rinsed in warm water and 
then in water slightly acidulated. White skins, 


252 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


wings, etc., intended for light colors, are washed in 
two quite concentrated soap baths, then in two very 
warm water-baths, rinsed first in slightly acidulated, 
and finally in cold, water. 

2. Decolorizing. Decoloration is made use of only 
for wings and bird skins, and for some larger, more 
valuable varieties of feathers. The process is the 
same as given for ostrich feathers, which see. 

3. Degreasing. The process is the same as given 
for ostrich feathers, but is of greater importance here, 
it frequently being the initial and final operations, 
after which the articles are ready for the manufac¬ 
turer. The bath is used according to the various 
natural designs of the skins, wings, and feathers, the 
result always being an agreeable tone. The white 
mixed with the natural design usually suffers some¬ 
what from the chromate of potassium, but is restored 
by the subsequent saccharic acid bath. 

4. White. White fancy feathers are brought into 
a bath of io’o° F., which, for every 10 lbs. of feathers, 
contains 2 lbs. of dissolved castile soap. The 
feathers are thoroughly handled for one-quarter of 
an hour, and then taken out. They are next brought 
into a fresh bath of the same temperature, but con¬ 
taining 3 lbs. of castile soap in solution, where they 
remain for one hour, being from time to time thor¬ 
oughly handled. They are then taken out and, to 
remove the soap, are worked through two baths of 
ioo° F., each containing 1 lb. of soda. They are 
then twice rinsed in cold water. 

They are next brought into a warm water-bath to 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 253 

which 3 lbs. of peroxide of hydrogen have been 
added. In this bath the feathers remain for one 
hour, when they are taken out and brought into a 
bath of 120° F., to which 1 lb. of potassium bisul¬ 
phide has been added. They remain in this bath for 
one hour, when they are brought into a fresh warm 
bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. They are then 
rinsed in a cold bath and next blued, according to 
sample, in a bath to which best Aniline-violet 6 B, 
dissolved in alcohol, has been added. They are then 
passed through the centrifugal and dried. 

Pale blue, marine-blue, or a redder number of 
violet may also be used for bluing. The reddish 
tinge of the blue depends on the white ; the yellower 
the latter, the redder the blue must be. The blue 
must be dissolved in alcohol, since, if dissolved in 
water, small blue spots are formed in cold bluing. 

5. Dyeing black, a. Chicken feathers. Twenty 
lbs. of unwashed feathers are brought into a water- 
bath of about 200 quarts heated to 200° F., and to 
which 7 ozs. of sulphuric acid previously diluted 
with cold water have been added. Stir with a crutch 
or stick until all the feathers are thoroughly moist¬ 
ened. Then cover and let stand till the next morning. 

Mordanting. Fill a kettle which should be free 
from acid, and have a capacity of at least 200 quarts, 
with water, and start the fire. When the water boils, 
add 20 lbs. of logwood and 16 lbs, of fustic, each 
dye-wood securely tied in a bag, so as to leave 
plenty of room for expansion. Boil briskly for one 
hour. Then take out the bags and add 2^ lbs. of 


254 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

best white tartar, ground, 2 lbs. of green vitriol, and 
23 ozs. each of blue vitriol and potassium chromate.. 
Stir well on the bottom of the kettle until all is dis¬ 
solved, then bring the whole to the boiling-point, 
and finally add sufficient cold water to reduce the 
temperature of the bath to 145 0 F. 

The feathers having an hour previous to this been 
taken from the wash-bath, and placed in a sieve to 
drain, are now brought into the kettle and stirred, 
with constant firing, so they cannot remain for any 
length of time on the bottom, or on the hot sides of 
the kettle, otherwise the points might readily scorch. 

When the mordanting bath has acquired a tem¬ 
perature of 185° F., the fire is withdrawn and, after 
handling the feathers for some time longer, cover the 
kettle in the manner described under “ dyeing ostrich 
feathers black.” The feathers remain in the kettle 
till the next morning, when they are taken out and 
placed in a sieve. Then empty the kettle, wash it 
with water (no acid should be used), refill it with 
water, and start the fire. The feathers are now 
rinsed four to six times until the rinsing water ap¬ 
pears clear. Then fill a barrel with boiling water 
and dissolve in it 3 y 2 ozs. of potassium chromate. 
Bring the feathers into this bath, stir well, and let 
them stand. 

Dyeing. Bring 20 lbs. of logwood into the kettle 
and boil briskly for one hour. Then remove the bag 
containing the logwood and reduce the temperature 
of the bath to 145 0 F. by the addition of cold water. 
The feathers, having been allowed to drain off in the 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 255 

sieve for half an hour, are then brought into the 
kettle and thoroughly handled, the temperature of 
the bath being gradually increased to 194 0 F. The 
fire is then withdrawn, and after handling the feathers 
for some time longer, the kettle is covered in the 
previously described manner and allowed to stand 
over night. The next morning the feathers are 
brought into a sieve and several times rinsed in cold 
water, when they are brought into a bath of ioo° F. 
containing 2 lbs. of soda in solution. They are next 
placed in a fresh bath of the same temperature, con¬ 
taining 10 lbs. of good white soap in solution. Here 
they are thoroughly handled for one hour, when they 
are taken out and passed in succession through two 
soda-baths of 100° F., each bath containing 2 lbs. of 
soda, when they are once more rinsed. 

Treatment with chlorine. The chlorine solution 
used for this purpose is of the same composition as 
that employed in chlorinating ostrich feathers. Add 
some of the solution to a water-bath of about 400 
quarts heated to iii° F., stir thoroughly and work 
the feathers in it. After 10 minutes take out a 
handful of feathers, place them in a clean water-bath 
and examine them in a good light. If they cannot 
be well seen in the water, dry five to ten of them. If 
the black shows a coppery luster, add a correspond¬ 
ing quantity of chlorine solution to the bath, stirring 
constantly. If at the next examination the black 
appears clear and deep, take the feathers quickly 
from the bath, rinse them in three or four cold water- 
baths, pass them through the centrifugal, and dry. 


25O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


b. Turkey feathers. Wash the feathers according 
to directions given under cleaning. They are then 
in the main treated like chicken feathers, the only 
differences being as follows: i. Gently boil the mor¬ 
danting bath with the feathers for hour. 2. After 
standing in the mordanting bath over night, the 
feathers are taken out and spread out in the air for 
one hour. 3. During this time add to the mordant¬ 
ing bath used about one-quarter of the quantity of 
mordant originally employed. 4. Return the cooled 
feathers to the mordanting bath, heat to the boiling- 
point and let stand, well covered, over night. 5- The 
next morning take them out, cool them in the air 
and then rinse. The treatments with chlorine solu¬ 
tion and dyeing are the same as for chicken feathers, 
except gently boiling hour. 

c. Pigeon feathers. Wash thoroughly according 
to directions given under cleaning. Then subject 
the feathers to the same treatment as given under 
$a, observing the following differences: 1. Instead 
of moistening in a bath acidulated with sulphuric 
acid, wash thoroughly as above mentioned. 2. For 
mordanting take part more fustic and bring the 
bath with the feathers to the boiling-point. 3. Boil 
for a short time in the dye-bath. 4. Omit the soap 
and soda-bath. 

d. Goose and duck feathers. Wash thoroughly 
according to directions given under cleaning. Then 
treat the feathers in the same manner as given under 
5 a, observing the following differences : I. The mor¬ 
danting bath should contain more fustic. 2. Boil 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 257 

in the mordanting and dye-baths for half an hour. 
3. Omit the soap and soda-baths. 

e. Peacock feathers. The treatment is the same 
as for ostrich feathers, but the feathers must be freed 
from their natural bronze by treating them according 
to direction given under “ Dyeing ostrich feathers, 3.” 

f. Parrot feathers. Treat the same as given for 
turkey feathers, but first remove the natural bronze 
according to directions given under 3. The temper¬ 
ature of the baths should not exceed 167° F. 

• 

g. Skins of kingfishers and magpies. Treat the 
skins in a concentrated bath of good white soap, and 
then rinse in several warm waters. They are then 
placed for one hour in a strong chlorine bath of ioo° 
F., prepared according to directions given under 
“Dying ostrich feathers, 5.” They are then rinsed 
twice in cold water and next brought into a strong 
logwood bath of ioo° F., where they remain for two 
hours. Then, without rinsing, they are placed for 
half an hour in a bath of medium strong potash solu¬ 
tion heated to ioo° F. Next rinse thoroughly and 
return them to the logwood bath for one hour. 
Then rinse thoroughly, draw them through a good 
soap-bath, rinse again, and finally treat with chlor- 
me. 

h. All other kinds of birds' wings , skins y heads and 
tails. Wash according to direction given under 
cleaning. Dye as given under 5 a , but the tempera¬ 
ture of the bath should not exceed 167° F. 

6. Bronze — Green , olive , gold. The feathers are 
dyed black, and rinsed, but not treated with chlorine. 

17 


258 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

They are then dyed in the same manner as given for 
ostrich feathers. 

7. Other colors , including mode colors. The treat¬ 
ment is the same as given for ostrich feathers. 

8. Ombre. The same directions as given for 
ostrich feathers also apply here, but for fancy feathers 
two colors are, as a rule, only demanded. As re¬ 
gards the variation in the treatment of fancy articles 
from ostrich feathers, the reader is referred to the 
section “Treatment in General.” 

9. Changeant. Parrots, as well as other birds and 
wings, are decolorized according to directions given 
under “Dyeing ostrich feathers, 2.” They acquire a 
beautiful changeant if dyed cream-color (see ostrich 
feathers, 7), and dried at rest. Next prepare a 
neutral bath of 122 0 F., with very little Eosin, and 
in this bath handle the cream-color dyed wings, etc., 
without previous wetting, for a short time. The dry 
articles become only partially wet in the Eosin bath, 
the wetted portions acquiring a salmon color, while 
those not wetted remain cream color. 

A beautiful contrast is also obtained with decolor¬ 
ized lark wings, as well as other wings, etc., which 
have been dyed Mandarin, and dried. By drawing 
such articles through a solution* of Brilliant Green, 
the wetted portions acquire an olive color, while the 
non-wetted portions remain Mandarin. 

Drying. The difference in the construction of 
ostrich and fancy feathers necessitates different 
methods of drying. 

Ostrich feathers, after dyeing, are passed through 


CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 259 

a small bath of cold water, to which a considerable 
quantity of raw starch has been added, two handfuls 
of starch being taken for 3 quarts of water and 1 lb. 
of feathers. The feathers after being thoroughly 
rubbed in this starch-water are squeezed out and 
passed through the centrifugal. The separate 
bunches after being somewhat beaten are hung over 
a line. A special frame in the form of a very broad 
ladder, secured by long ropes to the ceiling, is also 
used for this purpose. In summer the feathers may 
be dried in the open air, otherwise a special room 
which can be heated to 122 0 F. is required. In the 
open air they are allowed to hang quietly, it being 
only necessary to beat them occasionally either be¬ 
tween the hands or over the edge of a table. But 
when drying in a room with no natural motion of 
the air, the latter must be artificially produced. This 
is effected by tying the lines upon which the feathers 
are hung somewhat slack and swinging them, or the 
above-mentioned frame, to and fro, occasionally 
beating or shaking the feathers, which may finally 
be hung up in warm air for one day. 

When a large number of feathers are to be handled 
a machine, especially constructed for the purpose, can 
be used for working the dry starch into the wet 
feathers, and another machine is employed for dry¬ 
ing off the feathers and shaking out the starch. The 
latter machine consists of a woven-wire cage which 
oscillates in a current of hot air, the starch being 
collected in a receptacle at the bottom. 

Feathers are curled in the following manner: 


260 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

They are first steamed to soften them, this being 
• done with steam as free from water as possible which 
can be secured by having a fairly capacious kettle 
built with the spout passing out of the top with a 
broad base, the kettle not being more than half full 
and the spout placed upon the top so that the steam 
is as dry as it is possible to get. The curling is 
effected by drawing the flues of the feather over the 

i 

Fig. 23. 



back of a knife which has a curved blade, and the 
curl is fixed by drying the feather before a fire. A 
little practice will soon make a proficient curler. 

A special tool, Figs. 23 and 24, for curling feathers 
has recently been patented. It is formed from sheet 
metal and mounted in a haft. The upper end of it 
is curved upwards, and has a blunt edge, and is con¬ 
cave to accommodate the ball of the thumb. By 




CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 


26l 


gripping the haft the lateral projection naturally 
comes into line with the top point of the thumb, and 
by placing the feather fronds in the position against 
the edge and stroking upwards in the usual way, an 
even and regular curl is imparted to the edges of the 
feather, without risk of snapping or breaking. 
Moreover, as the thumb pressure is practically even 
at all parts of the knife edge, the operation of curl¬ 
ing is hastened, and many fronds can be so treated 
at once. Fig. 23 is a perspective view of the tool, 
and Fig. 24 an end view. The knife shank 1 is 
secured in the haft 2, the shank 1 is formed with a 
lateral and extension 3, that terminates in a blade 4 
formed with a concave edge 5 to accommodate the 
curve of the ball of the thumb, and slightly sharp¬ 
ened on its upper side. The blade extension 3 is 
curved away from the shank 1, as shown in Fig. 24, 
until the edge 5 is approximately at right angles to 
the plane of the shank, and is thereby brought into 
line with the natural posture of the thumb ball when 
the haft is held in the hand. 

In operation the haft is grasped by the operator, 
who with the free hand passes the feather fronds to 
be curled between the blade edge 5, and the thumb; 
the blade being gently drawn from the quill to the 
extremity of the frond. This operation is repeated 
until the desired state of curliness is obtained. I11 
practice several fronds can be curled at a time quite 
as efficiently as a single frond, and there is no risk 
of cutting or breaking the feather. 

Articles of fancy feathers should not be drawn 


262 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


through starch-water, but after rinsing be passed 
through the centrifugal. 

Feathers of smaller size, such as chicken and 
pigeon feathers, are brought into the drying drum. 
This is a double-walled copper cylinder with perfor¬ 
ated ends. A steam-pipe for heating the drum is 
placed between the two walls. The feathers are in¬ 
troduced into the drum through an aperture on the 
side, while the moisture escapes through the perfor¬ 
ated ends. The drum is revolved by means of a 
crank until the feathers are dry. 

Skins, wings, etc., are almost completely dried in 
a quiescent state. They are then brought into the 
drum, so as to receive a steam bath from the moist¬ 
ure remaining in them, which gives them a beautiful 
appearance. 

Larger fancy feathers, such as the tail feathers of 
roosters, etc., may be strung together like ostrich 
feathers, and dried upon the line. They are, how¬ 
ever, not drawn through starch-water. 


VII. 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING FELT, STRAW AND 
PANAMA HATS ; BLEACHING AND* DYEING 
STRAW AND STRAW HATS. 

Most of the processes and formulas here given 
for cleaning and renovating felt and straw hats, have 
been contributed by Mr. Nicholas J. Mergen, an ex¬ 
pert cleaner, who has for many years been success- 
full}" engaged in the business. These processes and 
formulas are now for the first time published, and 
they will no doubt prove of great value and assistance 
to those engaged in this branch of the cleaning busi¬ 
ness. The instructions for executing the various 
operations are concise, readily understood by any 
one, and are thoroughly reliable. 

Tools. The tools required consist of: i Set Board ; 
i Set Round Derby Blocks, 5 inches deep; 1 Set 
Flat Top Soft Hat Blocks, 5^ inches deep; 1 Set 
Telescope Blocks, 3 7 /% inches deep; 3 Flanges, 3 
inch brim, sizes 6^, 7, and 7^ ; 3 Pocket Flanges, 
sizes 7, and 7^ ; 1 Flat Tolliker, wood ; 1 Foot 
Tolliker, wood; 1 Combination Dorsey and Round 
Shackle; 3 Band Blocks, sizes 6^, 7, and 7*^. 

It is not necessary to get a full set of flanges of 
each shape, as with a little judgment, you can make 
three of each shape do the work of a full set. The 

(263) 


264 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


same rule applies to blocks; for instance, two sizes.* 
and 7, of telescope blocks are enough for general 

use. 

Fig. 25. 



Tools and other supplies may be had from Messrs. 
Roberts, Cushman & Co., New York, a leading 
hatters’ supply house. 


Fig. 26. 



Figs. 25 to 41 show some of the tools that are 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 265 


manufactured and supplied by the above-mentioned 
firm. Fig. 25 represents an electric clutch attached 
to a motor. It is used for cleaning derbys, and soft 
and straw hats, and by renovators for drying straw 
hats, it being almost indispensable, for this purpose 


Fig. 27. 



Fig. 28. 



especially when working on a large scale, when 
quick drying is required. 

Fig. 26 shows a block for a round-crown soft hat, 
5^ inches deep; Fig. 27 a block for a soft hat 5 





266 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER 


inches deep; and Fig. 28 a block for a square-crown 
Panama hat. 

Fig. 29. 



log. 29 shows a flange,!brim 2^ inches, and Fig. 
30 a flange for a Panama hat, brim 3 inches. 

Fig. 30. 



Fig. 31 is a flange stand. 

Fig. 31. 



Fig- 32 is a curling board, and Fig. 33 a combina- 











CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 267 

tion curling shackle making a variety of widths and 
styles of curls. 

Fig. 32. 


Fig. 34 shows a tolhker with nickel or brass head. 

Fig. 33. 


Fig. 34. 


Fig. 35- 


Tollikers are also made of box wood, all brass, and 
all iron. Fig. 35 is a heart-shaped tolliker. 



268 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 
Fig. 36 represents a spring rounding jack. 


Fig. 36. 


Fig. 37. 




Fig. 37 shows a spinner; Fig. 38 a band block; 
Fig. 38. Fig. 39. 



Fig- 39 a se t stick; Pig. 40 a wooden stretch block, 
and Fig. 41 hatters’ irons. 

















CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 269 


Fig. 40. 



Cleaning felt hats. Brush the hat thoroughly to 
remove all dust, then soak it in a pan of gasoline or 
benzine for a few moments, next scrub it thoroughly 
with a stiff brush, and then hang it out in the air to 
dry. If the gasoline or benzine becomes very dirty, 
it is advisable to rinse the hat in clean gasoline or 
benzine. After dryirfg, the hat is ready for blocking. 
If the hat is faded it should be pounced with No. 00 
pouncing paper to remove all the faded parts. Great 
care must be taken not to pounce too deep as other- 






270 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


wise you will bring out dark spots, or, in other words, 
the body of the hat. The proper way of pouncing 
will be described later on. 

Some cleaners still advocate the older method of 
cleaning hats with pipe-clay, it being claimed that 
by this means the dirt and grease are thoroughly re¬ 
moved without in the least affecting the fiber and 
stiffening of the hat. The process is as follows: 
Cover the entire hat with a paste of pipe-clay softened 
in water, and allow it to dry near a stove or in a dry¬ 
ing chamber, the temperature of which, however, 
should not exceed 122° F. Dark spots noticed after 
drying indicate that the grease beneath them has not 
been entirely extracted. Cover such spots again 
with pipe-clay paste, allow to dry and, if required, 
repeat the operation several times. The hats are 
then placed in cold water -for about 12 hours and 
thoroughly washed, when they are ready for further 
treatment. 

Blocking soft or stiff hats. Put the hat firmly on 
the block, have convenient an iron tea-kettle about 
half full of water kept boiling to make steam. Hold 
the hat over the steam until it becomes soft and 
pliable, which will require about two minutes. Then 
work the hat down on the block until you have it 
smooth and in the desired shape. . Repeat steaming, 
if necessary, let the hat cool off for a few minutes, 
and then remove it from the block. The hat is now 
ready for setting and shaping the brim which is done 
on the set board or flange, according to the shape 
desired. 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 271 

Setting soft or stiff hats. Steam the brim of the 
hat until it becomes soft and pliable enough to work, 
then put it on the set board and set the brim accord¬ 
ing to the height desired. Work the brim against 
the set board with the thumbs, until it becomes cool 
and set, which will require about a minute or two; 
then proceed with the other side of the brim in the 
same manner. 

Curling soft and stiff hats. Have the curling 
shackle hot, using your own judgment as to the 
amount of heat required, according to the hat to be 
curled. Wet both the upper and under edge of the 
brim according to the depth of the curl required. 
Take the shackle in the right hand and work to the 
left, starting in the center of the front and working 
to the center of the back of the hat. For stiff hats 
run the back of the shackle a few times over the 
brim after it has been wetted, to soften the brim ; 
then proceed as above. If the curl is to be smaller 
in the front and rear, run the shackle outward ; then 
use the front and rear tolliker—the one with the 
groove—to work down the edge of the curl. The 
hat is now ready for setting on the set board. 

Pouncing or finishing a soft or stiff hat. Cut a 
sheet of pouncing paper into four parts. Take the 
paper in your right hand, one corner of it between 
the thumb and forefinger, and the other corner be¬ 
tween the third and fourth fingers. Have the hat 
firmly on the block, and rub to the right, taking 
great care not to pounce too deep. Take off as 
much fur as you desire, but take it off evenly; then 


272 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

block the hat, and finish off with a hat luering pad. 
Polish to the right. 

Luering or polishing soft and stiff hats. Have a 
pad made of light canvas, about 3^x6 inches, and 
cut a slit in the end for the index finger. It is best 
to have two pads, one for light, and one for dark, 
colors. For dark colors, use crude oil; for light 
colors, cocoanut oil. 

Rub the oil into the pad and heat it on a plate of 
iron placed on a gas or coal stove. Take the hat 
(on the block) in the left hand, and work from right 
to left, starting in the center of the crown. Care 
must be taken not to have the pad too oily, or you 
will get a very greasy-looking polish. In luering the 
brim, also work from right to left. 

Flanging soft or Panama hats. Set the hat in the 
flange of the desired shape, place the band block in 
the hat to hold it firmly to the flange, put a piece of 
light canvas over the flange and tie it down by put¬ 
ting a blocking cord over the canvas and around the 
flange.- Pull the canvas down until there are no 
wrinkles, dampen the canvas with a wet sponge, and 
iron until the canvas is dry. A No. 2 hatters’ iron 
is the best size for flanging. A little practice is re¬ 
quired to determine the amount of moisture necessary 
for the different kinds of hats ; also in properly rop¬ 
ing the canvas down on the flange. 

After letting the hat set in the flange for about 
fifteen minutes, it can be removed, and it is then 
ready for trimming. This method applies to all hats 
to be flanged. 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 273 

Binding soft or stiff hats. Measure the binding 
by pinning one end of it to the brim of the hat 
(the back end of the brim). Draw it fairly tight 
around the brim, until both ends meet at the back; 
then allow about a quarter inch over for the turn- 
in. Now take the binding off and sew both ends 
together with an over-hand stitch, allowing a quar¬ 
ter inch turn-in at each end, which will make it fit 
tight. 

To put the binding on, stick a pin through the 
binding and brim at the back, then pull the binding 
over the brim and taper it so that the front and rear 
of the brim width of the binding must be the same 
at the center and tapered to the curl, so that there 
will be one-eighth inch turn over the curl. Get the 
binding even all around and it is then ready for sew¬ 
ing, which is done with No. 40 cotton. Use a small 
stitch in the front and rear, and on the sides you can 
make the stitches about an inch apart. 

The above directions are for plain binding. For 
reversed binding, the measuring and sewing together 
are done in the same way, but in putting it on, the 
under edge is sewed on first about one-eighth inch 
from the edge of the brim, and then reversed or 
pulled over, and then sewed on the under edge of 
the brim with a fine stitch, so that it does not show 
011 the top of the brim ; for this work a good strong 
No. 60 cotton is best. 

To stitch the under binding, take one stitch 
through the binding and brim; then run the stitch 
along the extreme edge of the binding for an inch, 
18 


274 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

next take another stitch through the binding and 
brim, and so on till finished. 

Measuring sweat leathers for soft , stiff , Panama 
and straw hats. Cut one end of the leather off 
straight or at a very straight angle, then hold or pin 
it to the center of the back of the hat, bring the other 
end of the leather around the edge of the hat until 
both ends meet, and cut off the end the same as the 
other. 

Inside of the stitched edging running the full length 
of the leather, you will find a reed. Pull this out 
about one inch, then stretch the edge of the leather, 
which has become puckered by pulling out the reed, 
until it has a slight curve. Then measure again and 
cut off, if necessary, the end from which the reed has 
not been pulled. Now push the part of the reed 
that is sticking out, into the other end of the leather; 
paste on a sticker to hold both ends together, and 
sew on a small bow. The leather is now fitted and 
ready to sew in the hat, which is done by stitching 
with a small stitch about one inch apart, the long 
stitch being buried between the edge of the leather 
and the edge of the hat. Soft hat bindings are 
sewed on by an ordinary sewing machine; derby 
bindings are all sewed on by hand. 

Formula for cleaning straw , Panama , and Leg¬ 
horn hats. Dissolve eight ounces of binoxalate of 
potassium in one gallon of hot water (it will dissolve 
quicker if pulverized), and add one half pound of 
flowers of sulphur to the solution, which can be used 
hot or cold. Then scrub the hat thoroughly with 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 275 

this solution, taking care not to injure the straw or 
panama. Have a box of dry flowers of sulphur into 
which occasionally dip the brush, as the grit of the 
sulphur will help to cut the dirt. After you have the 
hat thoroughly cleaned, rinse well in running water, 
and then hang it out in the sun to dry and bleach. 
The same method applies to Panama hats as to the 
cleaning, but after you have the Panama thoroughly 
cleaned and rinsed, dip your brush into clear water, 
then into your box of dry sulphur, and apply it to 
the Panama, so as to form a paste. See that every 
part of the hat is covered except the inside. Then 
put the hat out into the sun to bleach for an hour 
or so, turning it once or twice, so that the sun 
reaches every part of it. After the hat is thoroughly 
dry, take a stiff brush, and brush off the sulphur 
well. The hat is now ready for blocking. 

The same method of bleaching can be applied to 
straw hats, if they do not clean as nicely as they 
should. 

Another' formula for cleaning straw hats is as fol¬ 
lows: Mix bisulphate of soda 10 ozs., pulverized 
tartaric acid 2 ozs., and pulverized borax I oz. 
Make some of this mixture with a sufficient quantity 
of water into a thin paste, and with the latter rub or 
brush the hat. The tartaric acid liberates the sul¬ 
phurous acid, and the borax promotes penetration 
into the straw fiber. 

Bleaching straw and straw hats. The process of 
bleaching is much simplified by using, in place of 
chloride of lime or sulphurous acid, a salt containing 


276 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

sulphurous acid, such as sulphite or hyposulphite of 
sodium, etc. Dissolve a sufficient quantity of such a 
salt in water and immerse the previously cleaned 
straw articles, while still moist, in the solution, allow¬ 
ing them to remain in it for several hours. In the 
meanwhile, prepare in another vessel a dilute solu¬ 
tion of hydrochloric acid free from iron (one of tar¬ 
taric acid is preferable), bring the hats into the 
solution, and after covering the vessel with a lid 
allow them to stand until they have acquired the 
proper degree of whiteness. 

If the hats and other articles of straw are properly 
prepared by treatment with soap, potash, and am¬ 
monia, they will come from the bleaching fluid in 
a faultless state. They are then rinsed in running 
water, and to increase still further their whiteness 
they may be slightly blued with methyl-violet of a 
reddish tinge. 

For six hats of the ordinary kind, 3 y 2 ozs. of hypo¬ 
sulphite of sodium and 2^ to 3 ozs. of pure hydro¬ 
chloric acid free from iron are generally required. 
Exact quantities by weight cannot be given, since 
the variety of straw, thickness of the braid, etc., have 
to be considered. 

Hydrogen peroxide, as well as sodium peroxide, 
is at present frequently employed for bleaching 
straw, the latter being placed in a moist state in the 
bleaching liquor. With hydrogen peroxide the 
bleaching bath is prepared by adding ammonia to 
commercial (10 per cent.) hydrogen peroxide until 
red litmus paper just turns blue; the bath should be 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 277 

slightly alkaline, though an excess of ammonia must 
be carefully avoided, it having an injurious effect 
upon many articles. The straw remains immersed 
in the bath for 12 hours, and is then washed. A 
repetition of the process may sometimes be neces¬ 
sary. 

For bleaching with sodium peroxide, boil the 
straw in a solution of about 2 per cent, sodium perox¬ 
ide, rinse it in acidulated water,_pass it through a 
bath of sodium bisulphite and finally wash thoroughly 
with water, and dry. 

Dyeing straw and straw hats. The most beautiful 
colors on straw and straw hats are obtained with 
aniline colors, but the straw must first be freed from 
grease and bleached. 

The aniline colors are best dissolved by pouring 
100 parts of boiling water over 1 part of coloring 
matter and stirring thoroughly. The aqueous solu¬ 
tions being in time subject to decomposition, it is 
advisable to prepare only sufficient for present use 
and, before dyeing, filter the solutions through a close 
cloth, since any undissolved particles of coloring- 
matter may readily cause stains. 

The receipts for plaited straw given below yield 
good results, special consideration being given to 
the prevailing mode colors. 

Beige on straw. All colors to be produced ac¬ 
cording to the following receipts must boil for 1 ]/ 2 
to 2 hours in order to obtain uniform dyeing. For 
clear beige tones, which are very much liked, it is 
absolutely necessary not to be too saving with tartaric 


278 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

\ 

acid, the latter having the property of imparting to 
the plait a clear fundamental tone, bleaching the 
straw at the same time. For dyeing a bale of straw 
weighing about 130 lbs.: 

Pale beige, use 17 ozs. tartaric acid and ^ ozs. 
solid ammoniacal cochineal. Boil thoroughly, allow 
to cool and enter the thoroughly cleaned goods. 
For paler tones a trace of Malachite green may be 
advantageously used. 

Dark beige is produced as above, a larger quantity 
of ammoniacal cochineal being used. In place of 
tartaric acid, the cheaper saccharic acid may be used, 
but too large an addition of it attacks the straw and 
their is danger of the latter breaking after dyeing. 

Tobacco brown. Prepare a bath with 8^ lbs. 
ground Brazil wood, and 2 lbs. extract of fustic. 
Enter the cleaned straw (about 130 lbs.), boil thor¬ 
oughly for 2 hours, then lift, rinse and enter it into a 
fresh bath prepared with 7 ozs. Leather yellow, 7 
ozs. Brown, and 2^ ozs. Malachite green. Boil 
again for 2 hours, lift, and rinse. 

Gendarme blue. Boil the straw for one hour in a 
bath to which have been added 3 to 4 per cent, soda 
and 1 per cent. Alkaline blue ; then lift and add to 
the same bath 3 per cent, sulphuric acid. Re-enter 
the straw and boil for one hour. Beautiful tones are 
obtained by using tin salt in place of sulphuric acid. 

Cardinal. For 75 lbs. straw prepare a dye bath 
containing 7 ozs. Safranin G and 2 lbs. curcuma. 
Enter the goods, boil one hour and rinse. By longer 
boiling bluish tones are obtained. 


CLEANING AND RENOVATING HATS. 279 

Dark green. Boil the straw one hour in a 5 per 
cent, sumac decoction, lift, and bring for y 2 hour in 
a cold bath containing 5 per cent, iron liquor of io° 
Be. Then lift, rinse, and dye in a 2 per cent, solu¬ 
tion of Malachite green. 

Myrtle green. Make a dye bath with 9 ozs. fustic, 
4 ozs. indigo extract, 1 oz. Bismarck brown B, a 
little Induline A, and a little Green crystals A, work¬ 
ing at the boil to shade. 

Dark marine blue. Boil the straw two hours in a 
bath containing 2 per cent, copperas, lift, and rinse ; 
then enter it into a fresh bath containing 1 per cent. 
Malachite green and 1 per cent. Methyl violet 2 B. 
Boil 2 hours and rinse. 

Silver gray. It is quite difficult to obtain a beau¬ 
tiful and even gray color on straw. All the various 
shades are best made with Induline. Prepare a dye 
bath with the required quantity of Induline, boil the 
goods in it for one hour, then add I per cent, of tar¬ 
taric acid, boil again for one hour, lift and rinse. 

With aniline colors all possible shades of color 
can be produced, and there are now a large number 
of such colors which become fixed without any 
mordant upon the straw fiber. 


VIII. 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 

Glove cleaning is done largely by hand, but in 
recent years machines have been introduced to re¬ 
duce the manual labor as far as possible. It should 
be borne in mind that the majority of white gloves 
now worn are alum-tanned ; and as this tannage is 
very soluble in water, the use of the latter or liquids 
containing it should be avoided. 

In cleaning gloves by hand, various appliances are 
required, such as vessels for holding the benzine, 
glove sticks, brushes, glove hands or trees, and 
cloths for rubbing. The vessels for holding the 
benzine should be of zinc, or tinned or galvanized 
iron, and each should be fitted with a tight-fitting, 
self-closing lid. Satisfactory results are obtained 
with a rectangular vessel constructed with a lid fitted 
with a chain of such length that the lid will not open 
so far as to remain open when the hand is removed. 
By this means the loss of benzine by evaporation is 
minimized, and with it the risk of fire. 

The glove stick consists of a round tapered stick 
of hard wood, and about 18 inches in length. The 
smaller end takes the finger of the glove, and the 
degree of taper is such that the wrist is on the 
thicker portion, which is about I ]/ 2 inches in diameter. 

( 280 ) 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 28! 

Glove sticks are also made with a small rounded end 
to take the finger, and a broader flat portion to take 
the wrist. 

The brushes should be of the best black bristle 
fastened into the back with strings. The use of 
wired brushes should be avoided as the bristles are 
cut through and readily come out. 

Glove hands or trees for shaping the gloves are 
made of hard wood with four pieces to take the 
fingers, the thumb being shaped by the operator. 
It is general to employ glove hands with slots be¬ 
tween the fingers to accommodate nickel slides which 
fold the sides of the fingers into the slots, shaping 
the gloves in the same manner as new ones. 

In cleaning gloves, the kind of glove, whether kid, 
Suede, chamois, or buckskin, has to be taken into 
consideration. The last three varieties may be 
cleaned by putting them on the hand or a glove-tree 
and rubbing them with bread crumbs or a stiff brush 
dipped in a mixture of dry fuller’s earth and powdered 
alum. 

Cleaning kid gloves. The gloves should first be 
sorted according to color, the white ones, which form 
as a rule by far the larger portion, being separated 
from the grays, browns and blacks. For gloves 
much soiled by perspiration a mixture of 50 parts 
benzine and 25 parts each of ether and chloroform 
is used. Benzine may be saved by cleaning the 
gloves, previous to washing with benzine, in a bath 
of y 2 pint of skim milk to which about 10 drops of 
ammonia have been added, or in a bath of I ^ ozs. 


282 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


of filtered-quillaia bark decoction and I quart soft 
water, to which 25 drops of ammonia have been 
added. The latter process is, however, unsuitable 
for white and light-colored ball gloves, it leaving be¬ 
hind a yellowish tinge. To restore luster, white and 
light-colored gloves are rubbed with white talcum 
powder, while colored talcum powder is used for 
colored gloves. Water stains are removed from 
white kid gloves by soaking in benzine soap solution 
and subsequent vigorous brushing. The benzine 
frequently dissolves much of the dye from colored 
gloves, and makes them pale and patchy in color, if 
it does not whiten them entirely. The only remedy 
in this case is to dye the gloves. 

Another method occasionally employed is to soak 
colored gloves in a mixture of sweet oil with 12 
times its volume of benzine for about half an hour, 
and then to rub dry. This is certainly attended 
with less risk to the color, but it makes the leather 
hard and brittle. 

An excellent method of cleaning white gloves is 
as follows : .Soak the gloves in benzine. If there are 
rust or ink stains they are removed before soaking. 
To remove rust stains, damp them with a wet, pointed 
stick, and then pat them with a cloth dipped in weak 
hydrochloric acid. As soon as the stain has disap¬ 
peared, rinse the place and dry it with a white cloth. 
The treatment must be executed as quickly as pos¬ 
sible and the wetting must be confined to the stained 
part. It is also essential to remove'the acid com¬ 
pletely the moment it has done its work. Ink stains 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 283 

are treated in the same way, but as much of the ink 
as possible should be removed by rubbing with a 
damp cloth. The soaking and washing should be 
done in a dry, warm room, which must not be heated 
by steam, or have steam escaping in it. After a 
brief soaking, each glove is wrung, put on a glove- 
tree and carefully brushed all over with a hard brush 
which resembles a large tooth-brush. During the 
process the brush is dipped alternately in alcohol 
and in zinc white. The two make a paste on the 
brush which penetrates the pores of the leather and 
brings away all dirt and perspiration. Places stiff¬ 
ened by perspiration, such as the finger-tips and the 
part of the glove covering the ball of the thumb, are 
specially treated afterwards by rubbing them, using 
the forefinger and thumb of each hand. This treat¬ 
ment effects a radical cure, and the places become 
soft and white again. The gloves are then rinsed in 
clean benzine. This is then squeezed out, and the 
leather is nourished with a fat bath for about half an 
hour. The benzine makes the leather brittle, and 
benzine soap acts far more vigorously in the same 
direction, so that its use should be avoided. The fat 
bath is made by dissolving 2 lbs. of lanolin and 4 
lbs. of vaseline in 10 quarts of benzine over a water- 
bath. This is diluted for use with 10 times its volume 
of benzine. Oils must not be used as they turn rancid 
and impart a bad smell to the leather. The bath in 
use is kept in a vessel with a tight-fitting lid, and is 
reinforced from the stock solution as required. Care 
must be taken that the sediment from the stock solu- 


284 dry cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

tion does not get into the bath. When a fresh stock 
is made the benzine is distilled off from the sediment 
from the old solution. 

After about half an hour in the fat bath the gloves 
are taken out one by one and well squeezed. They 
are then at once dusted over with powdered talcum, 
unless there are still dirty spots which must first be 
rubbed with zinc white on the glove-tree by means 
of a medium hard brush. All this and the powder¬ 
ing with talcum must also be done on the glove-tree 
before the glove is dry. Then put it on a stretcher 
and polish it by hard rubbing with a clean white linen 
cloth. The talcum is applied with a linen rag rolled 
up and tied at the ends of the roll, and dipped into a 
box of the powder. 

Chamois gloves are washed in lukewarm soap water 
to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. 
Soak the gloves in the bath for some time, and pro¬ 
mote the loosening of the dirt by squeezing and knead¬ 
ing. Then rinse in clean water, and draw the gloves 
through a weak soap bath to keep them soft after 
drying. This treatment restores “nourishment” to 
the leather. The soap bath should, however, not be 
too strong, otherwise the leather becomes smeary. 
The gloves are then thoroughly wrung and rubbed 
between the hands so that the water still remaining 
in them is uniformly distributed in order to prevent 
stains from wringing. They are then drawn smooth, 
stretched with the glove stretcher, and dried in the 
air, but not in the sun, nor at too high a temperature. 
Wringing should not be done lengthwise but in the 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 285 

direction of the width; place the fingers over the 
palm of the glove. 

Colored chamois gloves have to be re-dyed after 
washing, they losing much of their dye during the 
process. 

Buckskin gloves are previous to washing soaked in 
lukewarm water for half an hour. Then wash them 
in a soap solution at 77 0 F., paying special attention 
to the seams as the dirt sticks very firmly in them. 
Then rinse the gloves thoroughly, wrap them in a 
dry linen cloth and centrifuge, and finally hang up to 
dry. When a centrifugal is not available wring them 
as dry as possible in a linen cloth. To restore flexi¬ 
bility and softness to the gloves, add to the last rins¬ 
ing water glycerine in the proportion of two teaspoon¬ 
fuls to the quart of water. 

Gauntlets are cleaned with benzine, or in case they 
are very dirty, with soap, and then rubbed with talcum. 
If the cuffs are tinted, pulverize very pure whitelead 
(krems), stir with dissolved gum-arabic and water 
(half and half) to a thin paste, and apply it with a 
brush to the cuffs. After drying, rub vigorously 
with a white cloth to restore the luster. 

Suede gloves are cleaned as follows : Place them in 
a bath of ammonia 2 parts, water 8 parts, for two 
days, then rinse in cold soft water, and dry in the air. 
Since by this method of washing the gloves are not 
rubbed as is necessarily the case in washing with soap, 
the leather does not become rough but preserves its 
original appearance. 

Machines for cleaning gloves have recently been 


286 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

perfected. The fundamental principle of such a ma¬ 
chine constructed by C. E. Muller, Berlin, Germany, 
consists of two brush-rolls revolving with great veloc¬ 
ity one against another. The upper roll is mov¬ 
able. The brush-rolls are enclosed in a movable 
cover which serves for the reception of the spattering 
benzine, the latter running into a box provided with 
a tap. 

The gloves are first soaked in benzine and then 
brushed in the machine by holding each glove be¬ 
tween the brushes. The operation is very rapid and 
thorough, and drawing the glove once through the 
rolls is generally sufficient. The rapidly revolving 
brushes exert, so to say, a sucking effect which dis¬ 
solves the particles of dirt with great energy. 

Dyeing kid gloves. After the gloves have been 
washed and powdered as previously described, the 
powder should not all be rubbed off, but a little of 
it should be allowed to remain on the leather. They 
are then dyed by applying a solution of the required 
coloring matter with a brush or, what is better, with 
a flannel rag, since with a brush the coloring matter 
is apt to be laid on two thick and uneven. 

The inner widths of the fingers should be dyed 
first. After the color has been applied, the gloves 
should be well rubbed with colored powder, then 
stretched on the glove-tree, and the upper breadth 
of the hand dyed as evenly as possible, and likewise 
well rubbed in with powder. Last of all the inner 
part of the palm of the hand should be dyed and 
powdered. Should the color look unequal, retouch 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 287 

and powder once more. The powder equalizes the 
color of its own volition, as it is vigorously rubbed 
into the damp leather. After thoroughly drying, a 
second fat bath of the same composition as previously 
given may be applied. While this is not absolutely 
necessary, it greatly improves the appearance of the 
gloves. Last of all polish. 

Black on gloves. The most common method of 
dyeing leather black is by means of logwood. Apply 
decoction of logwood of 3 0 to 5 0 Be., giving two or 
three coatings, allowing each coating to dry before 
applying the next. Then dip the gloves in a solution 
of green vitriol and brush with warm water. Should 
the color not prove sufficiently dark, some decoction 
of fustic or quercitron may be added to the logwood 
decoction. In place of green vitriol, nitrate of iron 
may be used. As the leather begins to dry, rub it 
with a little olive oil and talcum powder, and press 
between flannel. The treatment with olive oil and 
talcum powder is repeated, and the glove allowed to 
dry on the glove-tree. No coloring-matter must 
reach the inside of the glove. 

The bluish tint so much liked in black gloves is 
obtained by washing the dyed article with ammonia. 

Brown on gloves is obtained by the application of 
decoctions of fustic, logwood, and Brazil wood with 
some alum ; the quantities of the dyestuffs to be used 
depend on the shade desired. For darkening the 
shade use a small quantity of green vitriol. 

Morocco-red on gloves is produced by applying 
cochineal decoction, to which a little tin-salt and 


288 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


oxalic acid have been added. A darker shade is 
obtained by the addition of a small quantity of log¬ 
wood decoction. 

Gray on gloves is produced by applying sumac de¬ 
coction, and subsequent treatment with weak solutions 
of green vitriol. An addition of fustic and logwood, 
as well as fustic and indigo carmine to the sumac de¬ 
coction gives greenish gray. 

If the seams are to remain white, cover them with 
flour paste mixed with a small quantity of fat. 

The use of aniline colors for dyeing kid gloves is, 
however, far more simple and cheaper than the pre¬ 
viously described methods. 

There are at present very few shades of colors 
which cannot be produced with the assistance of 
aniline colors, and, with the exception of very special 
tones, it may be asserted that even the most difficult 
shades can be dyed on leather. 

However, not all aniline colors can be used for 
dyeing leather, many of them which are suitable for 
silk and wool exerting a destructive influence upon 
leather. 

The best class of dye-stuffs to use are the basic 
coal-tar dyes like Magenta, Safranine, Phosphine, 
etc., they having so strong an affinity for animal 
tissues that leather can be colored or stained by 
simply applying an aqueous solution of them. Next 
to these in their value as dyes for leather, are the 
azo and acid dye-stuffs, but their aqueous solutions 
require to be acidified with some acid, best with 
acetic or oxalic acid. 


CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. 


289 


For dyeing with aniline colors the gloves are 
smoothly stretched over wooden hands, and the dye¬ 
stuff is applied with a brush, or better, with a flannel 
rag. 

19 


IX. 


GARMENT DYEING. 

THIS branch of the dyeing trade is, of course, quite 
different from that of piece dyeing. Garment dye¬ 
ing is the most difficult, the most troublesome, the 
most thankless, and often the least remunerative of 
all the departments of dyeing. Unlike the piece- 
dyer, the garment dyer receives the goods he has to 
operate upon after they have been already dyed. 
These have to be re-dyed, either of the same color, 
because the original color has faded, or of a different 
color altogether. In the latter case stripping is often 
a necessary preliminary operation. The stripping 
would be easy enough, if that were all that was 
wanted, but the garment dyer is expected to work 
without injury to the material of the fabric, and to 
give the customer as good a result as regards color 
as if he were a first-hand dyer. 

The first point is to keep the fabrics stretched as 
much as possible during the whole of the processes. 
Many old goods tear under the least stretching, 
especially those which have been long exposed to 
sunlight. It is, therefore, advisable with all goods to 
stretch them gently with the hands in the presence of 
the customer. If they then rend, the customer, if rea¬ 
sonable, will be convinced that their day is over. If 

(290) 


GARMENT DYEING. 


291 


they do not, it will be safe to re-dye them. The 
practical dyer will, however, have judged by the 
resist of the fabric the exact strength of the fiber, 
and if the stuff is worth re-dying he must judge of 
the dye to be used with reference to this. He must, 
in case the fiber is weak, select such dyes as can be 
used in baths whereof neither the temperature nor 
the reaction is sharply marked. At the same time 
he has a. second selection to make even among these, 
as regards leveling and coloring power. He has also 
to consider, especially when a material has to be re¬ 
dyed of the same color as at first, the degree in 
which the original color has suffered through wear 
and exposure. It may be merely lighter. It may 
have changed in shade. Generally it is not only 
altered in shade or even color, but is paler. In this 
matter experience alone is of service, it being im¬ 
possible to give fixed rules. 

If the original color is: 

White , any color can be dyed. 

Yellow , any color, except pink, gray and light blue. 

Gray , any color, except pink, pale blue, cream and 
yellow. 

Lilac , pink and prune , to pensee, dark blue, olive- 
green, olive-brown, dark brown and black. 

Pale blue , any color, except yellow, cream, pink 
and gray. 

Corn or gendarme blue , to navy-blue, dark brown, 
reddish-brown, corinth, medium-green, dark green, 
olive-green, olive-brown, medium-brown, black. 

Light , medium or bluish-green, to dark green, 
olive-green, olive-brown, dark brown, black. 


292 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


Dark blue , to corinth, dark green, olive-green, 
olive-brown, dark brown, black. 

Olive-green or brown , to the same color, reddish- 
brown, dark brown, black. 

Dark or Russian-green , to the same color, olive- 
green, olive-brown, reddish-brown, corinth, dark 
brown, black. 

Pink, any color, except yellow, cream and light 
blue. 

Carmoisine, cerise ox ponceau, to red, olive, medium 
brown, dark brown, dark green, black. 

Bordeaux, to the same color, reddish-brown, 
corinth, dark brown, black. 

Reddish-brown, to the same color, dark brown, 
black. 

Light brown, to dark green, olive-green, olive- 
brown, reddish-brown, bordeaux, medium brown, 
dark brown, black. 

Medium brown, to the same color or black. 

Black, to the same color only. 

DYEING SILKS. 

Silk garments to be dyed a light color must show 
a white ground, or the original color should be of 
such a nature that it can be removed by stripping or 
washing, or at least a clear light tone, similar to the 
color to be dyed, should remain after washing. 
However, beautiful light colors can only be produced 
upon a white ground and even then a few places may 
be found which by perspiration, dirt or contact with 
air have acquired a different affinity for the coloring 
matter. 


GARMENT DYEING. 


293 


After washing, and in dyeing the greatest care is 
required, and perfect cleanliness should prevail. All 
crumpling together of the articles should be avoided, 
and it is therefore advisable to let the garments re¬ 
main in the last rinsing water until dyeing commences. 
For dyeing, copper kettles should be avoided, or, if 
this cannot be done, the kettle should be very wide, 
so that in handling the articles, they do not come too 
much in contact with the sides of the kettle, other¬ 
wise copper-stains, or so-called kettle-stains, may be 
readily formed. Another reason for the employment 
of a wide kettle is, that by lying closely together in 
a narrow kettle creases difficult to remove are readily 
formed, especially in heavy silk garments. 

The goods to be dyed are generally cleaned and 
stripped with very weakly alkaline hot water contain¬ 
ing soda carbonate or ammonia, or with strong boil¬ 
ing soap liquor containing about 12 lbs. of soap per 
10 gallons of water. Soap does not injure the silk 
fiber; frequently, however, silk moderately weighted 
has to be dyed, and in this case it tenders during the 
treatment. A small portion of the goods to be dyed, 
must, therefore, be tested for strength. This is gen¬ 
erally done by folding a small cutting of dry material 
in the direction of both the warp and the weft, press¬ 
ing the crease hard with the finger nail or a flat iron, 
and trying its strength by stretching and pulling. 
If it breaks in the creases very great caution must be 
exercised in dyeing. The test is still more thorough 
if the material be previously boiled for some time in 
a soap solution. 


294 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Damages due to wear and exposure of silken ma¬ 
terial may be comparatively easily remedied by strip¬ 
ping the ground color, as the subsequent re-dyeing 
covers any defects. Less attention need therefore 
be paid with silk than with wool to the selection of 
leveling dyestuffs, and nearly any coloring matter 
can be employed on silk, though the acid dyestuffs 
are generally used as, with a few exceptions all of 
them dye silk satisfactorily. The following dyestuffs 
are recommended : 

Blacks .—Naphthylamine Black 4 B, 6 B (C.) 
(shaded with Indian yellow and Acid Green). 

Blues .—Alkaline Blue, all makes, Brilliant Wool 
Blue G (By.), Cyanole extra (C.), Patent Blue A N, 
superior, V (M. L. B.), Silk Blue B. E. S. (By.), 
Solid Blue R (C.). 

The various brands of Alkaline Blues are dyed 
near 175 0 to 195° F., with the addition of 4 to 5 
per cent, borax. After dyeing the goods are rinsed 
in water and the color is “ raised ” in a hot bath 
containing a small quantity of sulphuric acid. 

Greens .—Acid Green extra cone. (C.), Acid Green 
G G (By.), Fast Acid Green B N (C.). 

Oranges .—Orange extra (C.), Orange II. (M. L. 
B.), Orange II. B. (By.), Tropaeoline O O (C.). 

Beds .—Azo Rubine A (C.), Croceine A Z (C.) 
Fast Red A (By.), Rhodamine B, Rose Bengale 
extra N (C.), Scarlet, all brands (M. L. B.). 

Violets .—Acid Violet 4 R (By.), Acid Violet 4 R 
S, 5 B N (M. L. B.), Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 B (C.). 

Yellows —Acid Yellow A T (C.), Indian Yellow 
G (By. etc.), Quinoline Yellow (M. L. B. etc.) 


GARMENT DYEING. 


295 


For the production of deeper full tones, the acid 
dyestuffs may be combined with Indigo, Pensee 
Lake, etc. The silk fiber combines with these col¬ 
oring matters without a mordant, it being in most 
cases only necessary to acidulate the dye-bath with 
sufficient sulphuric acid that its presence can be de¬ 
tected by the taste. However, acetic or formic acid 
may with advantage be substituted for sulphuric acid, 
as the better exhaustion produced by the latter is of 
little consequence in silk dyeing, while, on the other 
hand, the organic acids produce better leveling baths. 

Enter the goods at about 120° F. and gradually 
raise the temperature to about 150° F. 

All silk goods, after rinsing in water, are 
“ scrooped” in a dilute acetic acid bath to impart to 
them the peculiar handle or “ scroop ” possessed by 
all silk fabrics. 

A few formulas for dyeing silk dresses and fabrics 
will here be given, but the dyer must not rely too 
much on the quantities given as, owing to the diffi¬ 
culties which are involved i.n a number of dresses 
and other fabrics, the sizes of which may vary much, 
it is practically impossible to give definite quantities 
in receipts, and the garment dyer must be prepared 
to vary the quantities to suit the number and size of 
the goods he is dealing with. 

Black on silk . For 20 lbs. weight of goods, pre¬ 
pare a dve-bath with 18 ozs. Naphthylamine Black 
S, */2 oz. Tropaeoline 00, 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, and 
4 ozs. acetic acid. 

The Naphthylamine Blacks 4 B and 6 B, as previ- 


296 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

ously mentioned are especially well suited for black 
on silk. Naphthylamine Blacks D, R, 4 B, or 
Napthyl Blue-black N, shaded with Acid Green may 
also be used; the saddening is done with Indian 
yellow or orange. 

Dark brown on silk . For 5 lbs. weight of silk 
goods, prepare a bath acidulated with 3^ ozs. sul¬ 
phuric acid and containing in solution 3 y 2 ozs. 
Aniline Orange No. 2 (medium) and Sy. ozs. indigo 
carmine. Enter the goods in this bath, work them 
constantly and gradually raise the temperature to 
190° F., and eventually to gentle boiling. Then 
finish according to shade desired with Aniline fast 
Brown, Pensee Lake, and Azo-yellow. Rinse. 

Tobacco brown on silk (5 lbs.'). Dye the silk 
in a bath which, besides iy 2 ozs. sulphuric acid and 
7 ozs. alum, contains 23^ ozs. Azo-yellow, 1 oz. of 
Orange No. 2 (medium), and 2]/ 2 ozs. of Pensee 
Lake in solution. Enter warm, and gradually heat, 
with constant handling, to boiling. Rinse. 

Gold on silk (5 lbs'.). Dissolve 33^ ozs. Azo¬ 
yellow, y 2 oz. Orange No. 2 ( medium), -J oz. Pensee 
Lake, 5 y ozs. alum, and 3 y ozs. sulphuric acid, and 
dye the silk in the bath heated to from 145 0 to 
200° F. 

Bordeaux red on silk. (5 lbs.). Prepare a bath 
which contains the following in solution : 43^ ozs. of 
sulphuric acid, 2}4 ozs. Acid Fuchsine, iy ozs. 
Fast Red, y oz. Indigo-carmine. Enter the gar¬ 
ments at 145 0 F. and work them for about half an 
hour up to boiling, when they are finished. 


GARMENT DYEING. 


297 


Scarlet on silk. Prepare a bath containing 2 ozs. 
Scarlet 4 R, 8 ozs. Glauber’s salt and y 2 oz. sul¬ 
phuric acid. Dye in the boiling bath. Various 
shades of scarlet can be dyed by using the 2 R, 3 R, 
or 00 Scarlets. 

Crimson on silk. Prepare a bath containing 8 
ozs. Glauber’s salt, 1 oz. sulphuric acid, and 1 oz. 
Azo Carmine, and dye at the boil. The shade of 
crimson thus obtained is beautiful, and is fast to 
washing and light. 

Cherry red on silk. Prepare a bath with 1 oz. sul¬ 
phuric acid, 1 oz. Acid Magenta, 1 ]/ 2 ozs. Fast Red 

A, y 2 oz. indigo extract, and dye at the boil. 

For bright scarlets , the brilliant Croceines R. B, 2, 

B, M, 3 B, 5 B, 7 B, 9 B and Croceine A Z may be 
used, as well as E. C, Brilliant Scarlet 4 R, and 
Crystal Scarlet, 6 R. 

For deeper bluish reds : Rocceline, Azo Rubine A, 
Azo Red A, Azo Orseille 2 B, Brilliant Cochineal 2 
R and 4 R, Bordeaux B L, Lanafuchsine S B, S G. 

Cream on silk. Add to a soap bath a little Phos¬ 
phine, or New Phosphine G, raise the temperature 
to the boil, enter the goods and work for 15 minutes ; 
then lift, wash, and dry. It takes but little of any of 
these dye stuffs to produce a cream and care must 
be exercised in making the addition to the bath, 
otherwise the shade of cream will come out too dark. 

Rose color on silk. a. Dye the garments in a neu¬ 
tral bath of 122° F., containing 2 y 2 to 8 drachms of 
Diamond Fuchsine I a . 

b. For a deep shade use : 3 ozs. Violamine A 2 R, 


29B DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

I lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 ozs, sulphuric acid. This 
is a strong bluish shade of rose; by using Violamine 
G, a yellowish rose can be dyed. These shades are 
quite fast to light. 

Salmon rose on silk. For 10 lbs. of goods pre¬ 
pare a bath with ^ oz. Lanafuchsine S B, )( oz. 
Fast Yellow S., 1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 2 ozs. acetic 
acid. 

Blue on silk. Dissolve in a bath 1 ozs. of Alka¬ 
line Blue 6 B, and 8 ozs. of borax, or 10 ozs. of soda. 
Enter the garments, etc., at ioo° F., and while thor¬ 
oughly working them, heat the bath to 167° F. 
Then take them out and prepare a fresh cold bath, 
to which add 5 ^ ozs. of sulphuric acid. In this bath 
work the silk for ^ hour, take out and rinse. 

Navy blue on silk. For 5 lbs. of goods prepare a 
bath containing 3 y 2 ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 ozs. alum, 
5 y 2 ozs. Indigo-carmine, and drachms Marine- 
blue I a . Dye the garments, etc., in this bath at 
190° F., take them out and add to the bath 3^ ozs. 
Pensee Fake and 8^ drachms Marine Blue. Dye, 
heating up to the boiling-point, until the coloring 
matter has been uniformly absorbed. 

For a navy-blue with a less reddish tinge (admiral- 
blue) use less Aniline Marine-blue and more Indigo- 
carmine. 

For pale blue and blue the following dyestuffs are 
useful: Cyanole extra F F, 2 B, the various brands 
of Soluble Blues, and further the Alkaline Blues. 
For peacock, navy and dark blues, the same dyestuffs 
may be used if shaded or darkened with Cyanole 


GARMENT DYEING. 


299 


Green, Acid Green, Naphthol Blue Black, Naphthol 
Black, Naphtholamine Black 4 B, according to re¬ 
quirements. 

Heliotrope on silk (5 lbs.). Dye in a bath of 
2% ozs. sulphuric acid, 5^ drachms Acid Violet 
6 B, and 8 ^ drachms Acid Violet R up to 167° F. 
According to whether the heliotrope is to be bluish 
or reddish, use a larger quantity of the first or the 
latter coloring matter. If a dull shade is desired, 
add Orange or Azo-yellow. 

Prune on silk. For j lbs. of goods use a bath 
containing 3^ ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 y£ drachms 
Genuine Red, and 1 ^ ozs. Acid Violet 6 B.. 

Dye according to directions given for heliotrope, 
and shade according to sample; for duller tones 
with Orange, for clear tones with Acid Fuchsine and 
Acid Violet. 

Silver gray on silk. For 5 lbs. of goods dissolve 
in the bath 1 x / 2 . ozs. sulphuric acid, 1 drachms 
Acid Violet R, and drachms Aniline Gray 

superfine extra. Dye at from 167° to 195 0 F. 

Gray on silk. For 5 lbs. of goods prepare a bath 
containing 2 ]/^ ozs. sulphuric acid and \]/^ ozs. 
Aniline Gray extra fine. Dye at 195 0 F., and 
eventually shade with a little Orange or Fast Brown. 

For grays the various brands of Induline, Nigro- 
sine and Aniline Gray may be used, which may be 
shaded as desired with Orange, Indian Yellow, or 
Lanafuchsine. 

Bright green on silk. For 5 lbs. of goods prepare 
a bath containing Azo-yellow 1 ozs., Acid Green 


300 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

14 drachms, sulphuric acid 2]/^ ozs. Dye until the 
green has been uniformly absorbed, and finally boil 
gently for a short time. 

Pea-green on silk . For 5 lbs. of goods prepare a 
bath with ^ lb. Fast Yellow S, ozs. Cyanole 
extra, yi lb. Glauber’s salt and 2 ozs. acetic acid. 
Work at the boil. 

Fancy colors and all other intermediate tones. As 
fancy colors, may be designated all tones which 
deviate from the regular ones. They are produced 
as follows: As ground colors in dyeing, red, yellow, 
and blue are used, they being the so-called comple¬ 
mentary colors of which all other tones consist. 

Now according to the preponderance of one of 
these ground-tones in the desired color, the articles 
are first dyed with it and shaded with the others. 

As materials for the ground-tones may be recom¬ 
mended, for yellow: Azo-yellow, Martin’s yellow, 
turmeric; for ted: Fast red, Ponceau, Fast Brown, 
and also Acid Fuchsine : for yellow and red together : 
Orange; for blue: Indigo-carmine, Pensee Lake, or 
Aniline blue, Marine-blue ; for blue and red together : 
Aniline-Acid Violet. For the aniline colors the bath 
is acidulated with sulphuric acid, and for the other 
coloring-matters with it and alum. 

Genuine velvet is dyed in the same dye-baths used 
for silk garments, but greater care is required in the 
treatment. Baste around the separate pieces a strip 
of stuff two fingers wide, by which the velvet is 
worked during the entire operation. When entering 
the articles in the bath, place the velvet side down so 


GARMENT DYEING. 


301 


that in pushing down the wrong side receives the 
pressure of the hand or stick. After dyeing, im¬ 
mediately apply to the wrong side a solution of gum 
or gelatine, and dry. As regards the rest, it is treated 
like cleaned velvet. 

DYEING WOOL AND SILK (GLORIA) FABRICS. 

Gloria is woven from the two fibers—wool and 
silk—of a fine texture so that it can be used in the 
place of a silk fabric. It is mostly dyed with the 
acid dyes and these, as a rule, dye the wool more 
strongly than the silk when applied at boiling heat, 
the converse being the case at low and medium tem¬ 
peratures. 

The following dyes act equally on wool and silk at 
boiling heat: Fast Green, Bluish mark (By.) Patent 
Blue, Alkali Blue, Alkali Violet, Navy Blue, B 
(B. A. S. F.), Acid Violet 6 B N (By.), Fast Acid 
Violet A 2 R and 10 B (M. L. Br. and By.), Bengal 
Rose (dyed with acetic acid), Anthracite Black (C.), 
Naphthylamine Black D (C.), etc. The following 
have a rather stronger affinity for wool: Light Green 
S, Wool Green (B. A. S. F.), the Acid Orange dyes, 
like Orange I I, a few Ponceaus, like Palatine Scarlet 
(B. A. S. F.), Brilliant Croceine (C.), etc. 

On the basis of their affinity for silk and wool, the 
acid dyes may be divided into three groups, those 
given above as having an almost identical affinity for 
both fibers being taken as the first group. To the 
second group belong such dyes as chiefly dye wool 
when applied at boiling heat, e. g ., Acid Green, 


302 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

extra cone. (C.), Tartrazine, Orange G, a few Pon¬ 
ceaus, as mark 2 R (M. L. Br.), Indigo carmine 
Cyanine (M. L. Br.), etc. Finally the third group 
comprises the dyes having more affinity for silk than 
for wool at medium and low temperatures: Azo¬ 
carmine (B. A. S. F.), Acid Violet N (M. L. Br.). 
Fast Acid Blue B (B.), Water Blue, etc., as also 
the majority of the basic dyes such as Methyl Green, 
Auramine, Rhodamine, etc. 

The best means of dyeing wool and silk to shade 
is by using the dyes of Group I, unless prevented by 
other reasons such as their equalizing properties, 
suitability for combinations, etc. The mode of ap¬ 
plication is as follow: The bath is set with about io 
per cent, of “ tartar preparation,” bisulphate, and one- 
half the necessary quantity of dye, the goods being 
then entered, and the bath raised to boiling heat as 
quickly as the equalizing properties of the dye per¬ 
mit, boiling being continued until the wool appears 
sufficiently shaded. The silk will, as a rule, be less 
deep in color; consequently after boiling the bath 
down to between 113° and 122 0 F., the rest of the 
dye is added, and the operation continued in the 
cooling bath until the silk has been properly dyed. 
If, however, this result fails to ensue, recourse must 
be had to a suitable dye of the third group. In this 
manner a light yellow may be obtained with Azo- 
flavine, which, however, turns dirty in dark shades; 
a dark yellow and orange, with Orange II; red with 
Azocarmine, Magdala red, or a Ponceau ; pale blue 
with Patent Blue; dark blue with Acid Violet 6 B N, 


GARMENT DYEING. 


303 


and a bluish fast green; black with Anthracite Black, 
deepened with Orange and a basic green at low tem¬ 
perature. For mode colors, use is preferably made 
of Azocarmine, Patent Blue and Azoflavine. 

To produce “shot” effects the following proced¬ 
ure is adopted : The wool is dyed first with a dye of 
the second group, at boiling heat; the small amount 
of dye that has become fixed on the fiber of the silk 
is then removed by boiling with water, soap, or am¬ 
monium acetate, and the silk afterwards dyed in a 
third bath containing a dye of the third group, the 
bath being concentrated and cold, or, at most, luke¬ 
warm. Red, for instance, is produced on the wool 
by the aid of Ponceau 2 R, and the silk dyed green 
with Methyl Green and Auramine; or the wool dyed 
green with Acid Green extra cone., the silk red with 
Rhodamine, etc. 

DYEING WOOLEN GARMENTS AND FABRICS. 

The various methods which are used for dyeing 
w'ool have, of course, underlying them certain princi¬ 
ples on which they are based, and on the observance 
of which much of the success of the process depends. 
Wool must be treated differently from cotton, since 
a process of dyeing which gives good results with 
the latter fiber would lead to nothing but disastrous 
effects with wool or silk. On the other hand pro¬ 
cesses are used in the dyeing of wool which could 
not be possibly used for cotton on account of the 
very different properties of the fiber. 

Without entering too much into detail it may be 


304 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


said broadly that the application of the various color¬ 
ing matters to wool is governed by three principles, 
namely: Dyeing with acid dyestuffs, with basic dye¬ 
stuffs, and dyeing with mordant dyes. 

The application of the acid dyestuffs is effected in 
the presence of acids or salts, viz., sulphuric acid, 
sodium bisulphate, Glauber’s salt, alum, acetic acid, 
ammonium acetate, or ammonium oxalate. The 
object of these acid adjuncts is to neutralize the 
calcium bicarbonate in the dye water, liberate the 
dye acid, and finally to diminish the solubility of the 
latter in water, thus facilitating its absorption by the 
fiber and helping the bath to “ draw.” The stronger 
the acid the better and more quickly is the dye ab¬ 
sorbed by the wool. An equally important role is 
played by Glauber’s salt which acts as a regulator to 
ensue uniform absorption of the dye by checking the 
rate of absorption. 

The usual method of dyeing wool with acid dyes 
is as follows: The bath is charged with 2 to 4 per 
cent, of sulphuric acid, 10 per cent, of Glauber’s salt 
and the solution of dyestuff, the goods being entered 
at a lukewarm or medium temperature, and gradually 
raised to boiling, which is maintained for one hour 
to one and a quarter. This prolonged boiling is es¬ 
sential for securing the equalization of the dye, 
though some dyes, such as indigo-carmine, dye well 
at a somewhat lower temperature. Only in the case 
of light shades is three-quarters of an hour boiling 
sufficient; and here it is advisable for better equali¬ 
zation to dye with less acid and more Glauber’s salt. 


GARMENT DYEING. 


305 


The basic dyestuffs are taken up by wool in a very 
uniform manner without the use of any adjuncts in 
the dye bath, and the absorption begins at a tem¬ 
perature of 86° to 104^ F. Hard water should be 
corrected with acetic acid until the reaction is slightly 
acid. The goods are entered lukewarm, and the 
operation is continued for about an hour, the tem¬ 
perature not being allowed to exceed about 176° F. 
Dyeings performed at boiling heat are less brilliant 
in color. Nevertheless gentle boiling is admissible 
in the case of dark shades, and of a few dyes of this 
class, such as Methyl Violet. Auramine must be 
dyed in a neutral bath. 

The brightest colors are obtained by adding a 
little Marseilles soap to the neutral dye bath and 
avoiding higher temperatures, about 122 0 F. being 
the limit. In this case, however, in order to avoid 
stains, the water must first be boiled with soap and 
the resulting scum removed. 

In dyeing with mordant dyes the nature of the bath 
water plays an important part, and therefore the 
water used must have been corrected with acetic 
acid; otherwise a partial precipitation of the color, 
in the form of lime and magnesia lakes, may occur. 
In some cases organic impurities have an unfavor¬ 
able effect, e . g. in presence of Cochineal or Ali¬ 
zarine Blue. 

The mordants used are various compounds of 
chrome, iron and alumina. By the operation of 
mordanting, a deposit of oxide of the metal is formed 
on the fiber; and this, combining with the coloring 


20 


306 DRV CLEANER, scourer, garment dyer, 

matter, forms with it an insoluble colored body on 
the fabric, and so dyes it. The particular color thus 
developed on the fiber depends not only upon the 
coloring matter, but also upon the mordant which is 
used, Alizarine,, for instance, dyed on an alumina 
mordant develops a scarlet, on a chrome mordant, a 
dark red, on an iron mordant a dark violet. The 
mordanting is usually done before the dyeing, but it 
may be done after the dyeing; much depends upon 
the character of the dyestuff which is used. Some 
coloring matters such as Alizarine and Gambine, 
have but little affinity for the fiber and will not dye 
unmordanted wool. On the other hand, such dye¬ 
stuffs as logwood, fustic, and some of the coal-tar 
colors have considerable affinity for the fiber and 
may be first applied and then fixed by treatment 
with the mordant. In some cases the dyeing and 
mordanting may be effected in one bath. This 
method has the advantage of being quicker, more 
simple, and consequently cheaper, but in most cases 
the dyeings are not so full or not so well fixed as 
with goods previously mordanted. 

Preparing woolen garments for dyeing. Proper 
cleaning is the prime requisite for successful dyeing. 
It is impossible to dye uniformly or of a good color 
on fabrics which are at all dirty. On goods which 
are not scrupulously clean the best dyes, even in the 
hands of the most skilful dyer, can but give second- 
rate results, while it is a matter of experience that 
when the garments are properly cleaned before dye¬ 
ing, a second-rate workman can get passable results 


garment dyeing. 307 

with dyes which are by no means the best of their 
kind upon the market. 

The first step is to sort the garments into four 
classes, the dirtier dark-colored ones being put sepa¬ 
rate from the cleaner dark-colored ones, and the 
same with those of lighter shades. White goods are 
cleaned by soaking for four to six hours in a warm 
soap bath containing a little ammonia. 

In any case stains are first rubbed over with soap, 
and the garments are then worked for an hour in a 
carbonate of soda bath of from 1 to 1^ percent, 
strength, and at a temperature of about 120° F. 
The cleaner goods are treated first, and one soaking 
will probably suffice, and will leave a bath which can 
be used for the first soaking of the dirty garments. 
All the goods are rinsed—first in very weak soda 
water, then in warm, and finally in cold water. For 
very dirty garments a soap washing may be necessary 
before the treatment with soda. Hangings and up¬ 
holstery must be first worked in cold water to free 
them from dust, and then washed with soap in the 
washing machine, and finally rinsed as above de¬ 
scribed. The preliminary washing being finished, 
any remaining stains are removed, as far as possible, 
by the usual methods before the dyeing is begun. 
The next point is to strip the old dyes as far as pos¬ 
sible, especially if the new shade is to be medium or 
light. In many cases boiling in plain water is suf¬ 
ficient. Woolens may require treatment with nitric 
acid, but great care must be taken not to have the 
acid too strong. From 3 0 to 4 0 Be. is a • good 


308 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

strength. The action, too, should not be extended 
over five minutes, or the wool will receive too pro¬ 
nounced a yellow shade. Rinsing after the action of 
the acid must be ample and immediate. The acid 
bath can be used several times without renewal. 

A very large number of receipts for dyeing wool 
could be given, but only such have been selected as 
comprise those shades which a dyer is most fre¬ 
quently called upon to dye. 

Black on wool. a. Jet black. Make the dye bath 
with 6 y 2 ozs. Acid Black S, f ozs. Fast Yellow F Y, 
5 ozs. sulphuric acid, and i lb. Glauber’s salt. This 
bath shows how, by the addition of a little yellow, 
the blue shade may be changed to a full jet black. 

b. Dead black. Make the dye bath with ozs. 
Anthracite Black R, i ^2 ozs. Anthracene Yellow C, 
and i lb. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for I 
hour, then lift, add 5 ozs. fluoride of chrome, and 
work again at the boil tor 20 minutes. 

c. Black on a zuoolen dress with silk trimmings. 
To dye a woolen dress with silk trimmings, so that 
both the wool and the silk shall be dyed a uniform 
shade of black is by no means easy. Cleanse the 
dress thoroughly in soap, rinse well, and pass it 
through an acid bath. Next make a hot bath with 
copperas 1 lb., argol 2 ozs., bluestone 2 ozs,, and 
fustic -extract 1 oz. Allow the dress to steep in this 
bath for two hours, turning it over at intervals, then 
take it out, expose it to the air for half an hour, and 
rinse in water. Prepare a dye bath with 1 y 2 lbs. 
logwood and 1 oz. soap; enter the goods into this, 


GARMENT DYEING. 


309 


and work for 15 minutes at the boil, then allow to 
steep in the. hot, but not boiling, bath for one hour; 
lift, wash and dry. As a rule, the best results will 
be obtained when the two baths are used under the 
boil. 

d. Chromotrop black. Prepare the dye bath with 
9 ozs. Chromotrop S, y 2 oz. Alizarine Yellow, G G W, 
1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 6^ ozs. sulphuric acid. 
Slowly raise to the boil and work for one hour; then 
add to the same dye bath 5 ozs. bichromate of pot¬ 
ash and 1 y 2 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil 
for one hour. This yields a jet black. 

A blue black is obtained by using a bath contain- 
ing gyi ozs. Chromotrop 10 B and 6 y 2 ozs. sulphuric 
acid. Dye and develop the black by adding to the 
same bath 5 ozs bichromate of potash and 1 y 2 ozs. 
sulphuric acid. 

Gray on wool. a. Silver gray. Dye in a bath 
containing 3 ozs. Acid Blue 4 S, ^ oz. Titan red, 
and 5 ozs. acetate of ammonia. 

b. Dark gray. Prepare a bath from y lb. log¬ 
wood and y lb. galls. Enter the goods into this 
and work for half an hour at the boil Then lift, add 
y 2 lb. copperas, re-enter the goods, and work for 
half an hour longer. 

Scarlet on wool. Make the dye bath with 5 ozs. 
Titan Scarlet E and 1 lb. acetate of ammonia. This 
gives a good bright shade of scarlet which is fast to 
acids. 

Crimson on wool. a. Dye with 5 y 2 ozs. of Safra- 
nine and i l A lbs. Glauber’s salt. 


310 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


b. A very fine shade of crimson is dyed with i ]/ 2 
ozs. Fast Acid Violet R, io ozs. Glauber’s salt, and 
2 ozs. sulphuric acid. 

Deep red on wool. Use a bath containing 5 ozs. 
Rhoduline Red and 1 lb. Glauber’s salt. 

Ponceau on wool . Prepare a bath with 3 ozs. 
Ponceau R, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 y ozs. sul¬ 
phuric acid. Enter the goods in the cold, bring to 
a boil and work to shade; wash and dry. 

Maroon on wool. Make a dye bath with 1 y 2 ozs. 
Acid Magenta, 2 ozs. Orange G, ]/ 2 lb. indigo ex¬ 
tract, y 2 lb. Glauber’s salt and 4 ozs. sulphuric acid. 
Work at the boil to shade. 

Claret red on wool. Use a bath containing 6 y 
ozs. Archil Substitute N, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 
ozs. sulphuric acid. 

Bright red on wool. A good shade is dyed with 
6 x / 2 ozs. Lanafuchsine S G and 1 lb. bisulphate of 
soda. 

Orange on wool. Dye with 3 ozs. Ponceau 3 G, 
1 lb. Glauber’s salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. 

Yellow on wool. Make the dye bath with 1 ]/ 2 
ozs. Fast Yellow F Y, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 ozs. 
sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. 

Green on wool. a. Dark green. Make a dye bath 
with \ ]/ 2 ozs. Titan Blue 3 B, 1 y 2 ozs. Titan Yellow 
Y, 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, and 1 oz. acetic acid. 

b. Sage green. Make the dye bath with 1 lb. 
Glauber’s salt, 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, 3 ozs. Azo 
Yellow and 1 y 2 ozs. Patent Blue N, working at the 
boil. 


GARMENT DYEING. 


311 

c. Medium green. Use a dye bath containing i 
lb. indigo extract, 2 ozs. picric acid, i y 2 ozs. Acid 
Green, y lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric 
acid, working at the boil to shade. 

d. Olive green. Make the dye bath with 5 ozs. 
Naphthol Green B, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt, 1 y 2 lbs. 
bisulphate of soda and \]/ 2 ozs. copperas, working 
at the boil to shade. 

Blue on wool. a. Bright blue. Prepare a bath . 
with 3 ozs. of borax and 1 y 2 ozs. Alkali Blue B. 
Enter the goods at about 170° F., then heat to the 
boil, and work for half an hour. Then lift, rinse 
lightly, and pass through a weak sour bath with sul¬ 
phuric acid to raise to the color. 

b. Dark blue. Prepare a dye bath with 3 ozs. 
Serge Blue, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric 
acid, working at the boil for 1 hour. 

c. Navy blue. Prepare a dye bath with 2 ozs. 
Induline A, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric 
acid, working at the boil for 1 hour. 

Violet on wool. a. Pale violet. Prepare a dye 
bath with 1 y 2 ozs. Sulphon Cyanine, y 2 oz. Geranine 
B, y 2 lb. Glauber’s salt, and y 2 lb. acetate of am¬ 
monia, working at the boil for one hour. 

b. Violet. Make the dye bath with 3 ozs. Acid 
Violet 4 B S, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric 
acid. This gives a pure violet shade. If Acid 
Violet 6 B S be used, a bluer shade is obtained. 

c. Deep violet. A fine deep shade is obtained by 
using MA ozs. Chromotrop 6 R, 4 ozs. Cyanine B, 

1 lb. Glauber’s salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, work¬ 
ing at the boil for one hour. 


312 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

d. Mauve. Use 3 ozs. Acid Mauve B, 1 lb. Glau¬ 
ber’s salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. 

Brown on Wool. a. Make the dye bath with 
1 y 2 ozs. Nyanza Black B, 3 ozs. Congo Brown R, 
and 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, working at the boil for one 
hour; then lift, wash and dry. 

b. Deep brown. Make the dye bath with 3 ozs. 
Chromotrop 2 R, 2 ozs. Victoria Yellow, 6 y ozs. 
Kenton Blue G, y oz. Acid Violet 5 B E, 1 y 2 lbs. 
Glauber’s salt and 6 y ozs. sulphuric acid, working 
at the boil for one hour. 

c. Olive-brown. Make a dye bath with 3 ozs. sul¬ 
phuric acid, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt, iy ozs. Azo Fuch- 
sine G, y oz. Fast Yellow, and y oz. Fast Green 
extra bluish. 

DYEING MIXED COTTON AND WOOL GOODS. 

A large quantity of fabrics for men’s suits are now 
made from wool and cotton. The garment dyer will 
obtain the best results in dyeing such goods by using 
direct dyes, it being chiefly necessary that a little at¬ 
tention be paid, particularly to goods in which the 
cotton either appears on the surface forming a de¬ 
sign, or is spun or twisted together with the wool. 
The direct dyes work, as a rule, on the two fibers 
with equal facility, especially if the dye bath contains 
rather more Glauber’s salt than usual. The diamine 
dyes are also of considerable service, either used 
alone or with the addition of a wool dye, to shade off 
the wool part of the garment to the color of the 
cotton, 


GARMENT DYEING. 


313 


Black, a. With 10 gallons of dye liquor use \ Y / 2 
lbs. Union Black S, 2 ozs. Diamine Fast Yellow A, 
5 ozs. Naphthol Blue Black, 3 y 2 ozs. Formyl Violet 
S 4 B, and 4 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Tf desired the goods may be subjected after dyeing 
to a treatment with alum or better bichromate of 
potash. The goods after being dyed are rinsed and 
then passed into a bath, at a temperature of 140° F., 
containing 3 lbs. bichromate of potash and 1 ]/ 2 to 2 
ozs. sulphuric acid. After being chromed in this 
bath for about half an hour they are well washed. 
This chroming thoroughly fixes the color on the 
cotton and it will not change while being finished 
either by steaming or hot pressing. 

b. A very fine black can be obtained from $y lbs. 
Oxydiamine Black R M, 2 lbs. Union Black S, 
ozs. Naphthol Blue Black and 4 ozs. Formyl Violet 
S 4 B, chroming after dyeing as described above. 

Dark bltie. For 10 gallons dye bath use 4*^ lbs. 
Diamine Dark Blue B, 1 ]/ 2 lbs. Diamine Brilliant 
Blue G, y lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 5 ozs. Naphthol 
Blue Black, and 4 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Dark brown, a. For a dye bath of 5 gallons use 
iy lbs. Diamine Orange B, 6 y ozs. Diamine Bor¬ 
deaux B, y lb. Diamine Fast Yellow B, y lb. Union 
Black, 1 y ozs. Naphthol Black, and 2 lbs. Glauber’s 
salt. 

Scarlet. For a dye bath of 5 gallons use 1 y 2 lbs. 
Benzopurpurine 4 B, y oz. Ponceau 3 R B, y lb. 
Curcumine S, and 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Crimson. For 5 gallons dry liquor use 2 lbs. 


314 DRY cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 

Glauber’s salt, y lb. Congo Corinth G, i lb. Benzo- 
purpurine io B, and y lb. Curcumine S. 

Orange. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 4 y 2 ozs. 
Congo Brown G, y lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O, y 
oz. Mandarine G and 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Dark green. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 1 lb. 
Columbia Green, y lb. Sulphon Azurine D, y lb. 
Zambesi Blue B X, oz. Curcumine S, and 2 lbs. 
Glauber’s salt. 

Slate. For 5 gallons dye bath use 2 lbs. Glauber’s 
salt, y lb. Zambesi Black D, oz. Zambesi Blue 
RX, )( oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O, and y oz. Acid 
Violet 6 B. 

Dark gray. For 5 gallons dye bath use 2 lbs. 
Glauber’s salt, y 2 lb. Columbia Black F B, 1^ ozs. 
Zambesi Black B and y oz. Sulphon Azurine D. 

Drab. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 2 lbs. Glau¬ 
ber’s salt, y lb. Zambesi Black D, y oz. Mandarine 
G extra, y oz. Curcumine extra, and 1 x / 2 ozs. Mikado 
Orange 4 R O. 

Cornflower blue. For 5 gallons dye bath use 1 y 2 
ozs. Chicago Blue 4 R, 2 ozs. Zambesi Blue R X, 
2 ozs. Acid Violet 6 B, y oz. Zambesi Brown G, and 
2 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Sage brown. For 5 gallons dye bath use 4 ozs. 
Zambesi Black D, y oz. Mandarine G extra, 1 y 2 ozs. 
Curcumine extra, 1 y 2 ozs. Acid Violet 6 B, 3 ozs. 
Mikado Orange, 4 RO, ozs. Curcumine S, and 
2 lbs. Glauber’s salt. 

Dark sage. Use for 5 gallons dye bath 2 lbs. 
Glauber’s salt, 8 ozs. Diamine Orange B, 3 y ozs. 


GARMENT DYEING. 


315 


Union Black, ^ ozs. Diamine Brown M, i^j ozs. 
Azo Red A, and i l /i ozs. Naphthol Blue Black. 

Peacock green. For 5 gallons dye bath use 2 
lbs. Glauber’s salt, i 1 /^ lbs. Diamine Black H W, 2 y 
ozs. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 12 ozs. Thiocarmine R, 
and y 2 oz. Indian Yellow G. 

DYEING OF COTTON GOODS. 

Cotton fabrics generally contain a size, which fills 
or envelopes the fiber and thus impedes the uniform 
reception of the new coloring matter. Before dyeing, 
the complete removal of these foreign substances be¬ 
comes, therefore, necessary. Simple wetting or wash¬ 
ing in a soda bath is not sufficient for this purpose. 
A reliable method for the removal of the size is as 
follows: Boil 22 lbs. of the fabric with 3)^ lbs. of 
soda for 1 hour, rinse, then work it in a hot moder¬ 
ately sour sulphuric acid bath for 10 minutes, and 
rinse thoroughly. 

With the introduction of the direct dyes, cotton 
dyeing has become even more simple than wool or 
silk dyeing, and now all that is necessary is to pre¬ 
pare a dye liquor containing the necessary amount of 
dyestuffs and Glauber’s salt, or common salt, or soda, 
or some similar body, or a combination thereof. 
The method of working is to place the goods in a 
lukewarm, or even in a hot, bath, raise to the boil, 
allow the goods to remain in the boiling bath for half 
an hour to an hour, then take them out, wring, wash 
and dry. This method is simple and will answer for 
all direct dyes. There are some that do not require 


316 d£y cleaner, scourer, garment dyer. 


the working to be done boiling, it being only neces¬ 
sary to enter the goods into a boiling bath and work 
without heat or steam until the bath has cooled down. 
Furious boiling is not needed, a gentle simmering 
giving the best results. An enormous variety of 
shades and tints can be obtained from the direct 
dyes, and they can be combined together in every 
conceivable manner and proportion. 

Although cotton dresses are but seldom brought 
to the professional garment dyer, such dresses being 
in most cases scarcely considered worth the trouble 
of redyeing, a few receipts for dyeing with direct 
colors are here given. The formulas are intended 
for io lbs. weight of goods. 

Scarlet on cotton. Prepare the dye bath with 4|- 
ozs. Titan Scarlet C, J oz. Titan Orange, 5 lbs. salt. 
Work at the boil for 30 minutes, then lift, wash and 
dry. 

Crimson red on cotton. Make a dye bath with 6f 
ozs. Titan Scarlet D and 5 lbs. salt. Work at the 
boil for 50 minutes, then lift, wash and dry. 

Pink on cotton. Make the dye bath with ]/ 2 oz. 
Dianil Red 4 B, 8 ozs. salt and 4-i ozs. soda. 

Claret on cotton. Dye with 2-f ozs. Dianil Claret 
G, 4f ozs. soda and 2 lbs. salt. Work at the boil for 
one hour. 

Maroon on cotton. Dye with 4J ozs. Dinanil Claret 
B, 4i ozs. soda, and 2 lbs. salt. Work at the boil 
for one hour. 

Salmon on cotton. Dye with oz. Titan Brown 
O and 10 ozs. common salt, working at the boil for 
one hour, 


GARMENT DYEING. 


317 


Yellow on cotton. Make the dye bath with if ozs. 
Titan Yellow Y, and 1 lb. salt. Heat to 180° F., 
enter the goods, raise to boiling, and dye for one 
hour; lift, wash and dry. 

Orange on cotton. Use a dye bath containing 4f 
ozs. Mikado Orange G, and 2^ lbs. salt. Work at 
the boil for one hour. 

Green on cotton. Prepare the dye bath with 3f ozs. 
Benzo Green C, 1 lb. Glauber’s salt. Enter luke¬ 
warm, bring slowly to the boil; dye for one hour at 
the boil. 

Bine on cotton. Use a dye bath containing 6f ozs. 
Diamine Blue B G, 3f ozs. soda, lbs. Glauber’s 
salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. 

Violet on cotton. Make the dye bath with if ozs. 
Oxydiamine Violet B, if ozs. soda, and 1 lb. Glauber’s 
salt, and dye at the boil to shade. 

Brown on cotton, a. Use 6f ozs. Paramine Brown 
G, 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, and 3f ozs. soda. Dye at 
the boil for an hour. 

b. Light brozvn. Prepare the dye bath with 4-f 
ozs. Diamine Catechine G, 4f ozs. soda, 1^2 lbs. 
Glauber’s salt. 

c. Dark brown. Use a dye bath containing 8 ozs. 
Diamine Catechine B, 4f ozs. soda, 1 ]/ 2 lbs. Glau¬ 
ber’s salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. 

Black on cotton. Prepare the dye bath with 8 ozs. 
Oxydiamine Black A, 2 lbs. Glauber’s salt, and 3 
ozs. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. 

.Deep black. Prepare the dye bath with 8f ozs. 
Diamine Deep Black R B, 3 i ozs. soda, 2 lbs. Glau- 


3 18 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

ber’s salt. Dye for one hour at the boil, lift, rinse 
and dry. 

Gray on cotton . By using all the direct blacks in 
proportions varying from to i per cent, of the 
dyestuff to the weight of the goods, they give grays 
of various tints and depths. 

DYEING COTTON AND LINEN GARMENTS CONTAINING 

JUTE. 

Fabrics used for these articles consist usually of a 
cotton or linen warp and a jute weft. They require 
considerable care in dyeing, as the jute has a much 
greater affinity for nearly every known dye than 
either linen or cotton. Jute, for example, can be 
dyed direct with basic dyes in an alum bath without 
previous mordanting, the bath exhausting well, while 
cotton or linen must first be mordanted to get even 
medium, and particularly dark, shades with a basic 
dye. In dyeing mixtures of cotton and linen with 
jute black, for instance, with a basic dyestuff, the 
weft will come out black, while the warp remains a 
dark gray at the best. The most common colors for 
these mixed goods are blacks, reds, blues and yellows, 
mixed and mode shades being less usual. The dyes 
most in use for pure jute are Coal Black, Victoria 
Blue, Croceine Scarlet and Auramine Yellow, but 
they are all quite unsuitable for mixtures of jute with 
cotton and linen. For them, direct or substantive 
dyes are best, such as Columbia Black, Benzopur- 
purine 4 B, Dianil Blue B, and Chrysophenine. Even 
these go somewhat deeper on to jute than on to 


GARMENT DYEING. 


319 


cotton or linen. The remedy for all these difficulties 
is to mix the dye with the dressing. All the three 
fibers are then dyed alike, but the exact quantity of 
dye to take must be accurately judged. Too much 
dye causes a bronzing of the color of the jute while, 
if there is any deficiency of dye, the leveling is lost 
and the cotton or linen, comes out paler than the 
jute. The following receipt has stood the test of 
prolonged trial very satisfactorily for black. 

Wheat starch 2]/ 2 lbs., 50 per cent. Turkey red oil 
1 y?, lbs., Columbia Black F extra 1 y 2 lbs., Dianil 
Green G 8 ozs., Glauber’s salt, 3 lbs., carbonate of 
soda 8 ozs., tallow 4J ozs., water 10 gallons. 

Pass the goods slowly through this size at a tem¬ 
perature of from 176° to 194 0 F., and dry immedi¬ 
ately. Not only is the color good, but much labor 
is saved. Any direct dye can be applied in size in a 
similar way. 


X. 


STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS AND FABRICS. 

The garment dyer has generally to deal with 
clothes which are still quite good, but have lost their 
color. This has to be renovated or, in some cases, 
the customer requires the color to be changed to 
another. Formerly the art was almost confined to 
restoring the original color, but now browns have to 
be dyed on blue or green goods, greens on browns, 
and even greens and browns bn stuffs originally 
black. 

Garment dyers frequently strip by a mere treat¬ 
ment with hot soda and soap. With goods dyed 
with acid colors this treatment is fairly successful, 
though much of the original color is restored when 
re-entering an acid dye bath. This alkaline treat¬ 
ment is always risky and, in most cases, fatal to deli¬ 
cate wool. Generally speaking soda must be used 
with care ; while cotton goods will not be much af¬ 
fected, silk and wool fabrics are liable to be materi¬ 
ally altered. 

For stripping some of the aniline colors the ol- 
lowing process may be used : Prepare a liquor from 
i lb. of zinc powder and 2^/ 2 ozs. of quicklime mixed 
with water; boil up for half an hour and then allow 
the mixture to settle. Decant the clear liquor from 

( 3 - 20 ) 


STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS. 321 

the sediment and mix it with sufficient water to make 
a bath in which the goods can be conveniently worked. 
The goods are allowed to steep in the liquor for six 
to eight hours, taken out, rinsed, boiled in a fresh 
bath with 10 ozs. of alum and 1 y 2 ozs. of tartar for 
half an hour, washed and dried. The proportions 
given will generally suffice for 10 lbs. of goods. 

Some colors such as browns and blacks may often 
be removed by boiling in a bath containing about 5 
to 10 per cent, of bichromate of potash and about the 
same amount or rather more of sulphuric acid. This 
stripping method does not give a particularly good 
ground to work on owing to the objectionable yellow 
color imparted to the goods. However, it is quite 
suitable for the dyeing of medium and dark shades, 
with the possible exception of blues. 

Silks dyed with aniline colors are usually stripped 
with nitric acid. However, if the color is a golden- 
yellow it will be found impossible to strip it. The 
stripping bath is made in a vessel of wood, earthen¬ 
ware, or enameled iron, but must never come in con¬ 
tact with the bare metal. The bath may be heated by 
steam or over an open fire. It is made with boiling 
water, 4 quarts of nitric acid and I quart of sulphuric 
acid. The amount of water should be such that the 
liquid shows about 6° Be. When the goods are im¬ 
mersed most of the colors disappear at once. Blues 
resist the longest, and the goods are kept immersed 
till they are discharged. The bath must be kept 
near the boil during its use. When lifted the goods 
are rinsed free from acid with hot water. To make 


21 


322 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


sure that the dye is destroyed, dip a corner of the 
fabric into dilute ammonia. If the color reappears, 
the piece must be returned to the acid bath. Great 
care is required in working with nitric acid as, if too 
strong or its action is too prolonged, the acid has a 
tendency to tender the fiber. 

Woolens are stripped in the same way as silk. It 
has been proposed to use cyanide of potassium for 
stripping certain fast colors, especially aniline blues. 
The nitric acid process is, however, preferable in 
spite of the yellow color it leaves. The goods are 
boiled in a weak solution of the cyanide, and after 
several rinsings are transferred to a sulphurous acid 
bath of 122° F. Here the color disappears in the 
case of aniline blues and other dyes amenable to the 
process. The goods are then rinsed in a sulphuric 
acid bath without first rinsing. Care must be had to 
rinse out the cyanide perfectly before using the acid 
bath, or highly poisonous vapors will be copiously 
evolved. 

Mixtures of wool and silk are treated exactly like 
pure silk. Mixtures of wool and cotton are treated 
first with a weak carbonate of soda bath, then with 
eau de Javelle, and finally with nitric acid of 2° Be., 
without any sulphuric acid, if the colors still remain. 
The use of acids on cotton should, however, be 
avoided if possible, as it involves thorough and pro¬ 
longed rinsing. 

Peroxide of hydrogen may be used for all dyes not 
having a metallic base, i. e., without iron, lead, or 
chromium. The goods are placed in a bath of ten 


STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS. 323 


quarts of the peroxide and 3 y 2 ozs. of ammonia. 
After an hour or two at the ordinary temperature, 
raise to boil. As soon as the bath boils it has lost 
all its power, so that the boiling need not last more 
than five minutes. 

This treatment destroys nearly all organic dyes. 
Peroxide of hydrogen is however a rather expensive 
stripping agent. 

An old method for stripping woolens, however 
rarely employed, consists in boiling with dilute sul¬ 
phuric or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of soda. 
This bath acts very energetically on the colors, and 
the fiber suffers little, but the escaping nitrous fumes 
are highly objectionable. 

But for the high price, potassium permanganate 
forms one of the best decolorizing agents both for 
animal and vegetable fibers. The goods are worked 
for about one hour in a cold bath containing some¬ 
thing like 3 per cent, of their weight of permanga¬ 
nate and the same quantity of sulphuric acid, and 
then freed from deposited oxide by repeated treat¬ 
ment either with cold aqueous sulphurous acid or 
by boiling with oxalic acid. No difficulty is experi¬ 
enced in re-dyeing. 

The best stripping agent for cotton goods is chlor¬ 
ide of lime. With the exception of a few yellows 
and oranges, all direct colors yield to the usual 
bleaching routine; the same holds good with basic 
colors, and still more so with the sulphur colors. 

Stripping with hydro sulphurous acid . This method 
of stripping has been carried on according to the 


324 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


patented process of Cassela as follows: The articles 
to be stripped, for instance, garments, are placed for 
two or four hours or over night in a cold bath of 
sufficient strength of acid sodium hydrosulphite 
(NaHS 0 2 ). The bath should be contained in a 
well-closed vessel, which, if necessary, can be heated. 
The goods are finally rinsed in water, and are then 
ready for re-dyeing. 

The hydrosulphite solution for stripping, which 
completely removes even fast organic dye-stuffs 
without injury to the fiber, may be prepared as fol¬ 
lows: Slowly stir I part zinc-dust into a dilution of 
10 parts commercial sodium bisulphite of 35° Be. 
with 10 parts cold water. Allow the liquor to stand 
quietly for some time to clarify. 

The process taking place thereby may be illus¬ 
trated by the following chemical equation: 

3 NaHS 0 3 + Zn = NaHS 0 2 + Na 2 S 0 3 + ZnS 0 3 + H 2 0 . 

By this process the sulphurous acid of the acid so¬ 
dium sulphite or bisulphite (NaHSCh) is reduced by 
the zinc to hydrosulphurous acid, sodium hydrosul¬ 
phite (NaHS 0 2 ) being formed besides normal so¬ 
dium sulphite or sodium sulphite (Na 2 S 0 3 ) and zinc 
sulphite (ZnS 0 3 ). 

For stripping shoddy and dyed goods, use for 100 
quarts of water 4 to 6 quarts of the above-mentioned 
hydrosulphite and 1 pint of acetic acid. Enter the 
goods, heat to from 122 0 to 140° F., and work for 
to ]/ 2 hour till the color has been sufficiently cleared. 


STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS. 325 

In this manner many colors may be stripped or at 
least cleared. The goods are finally rinsed, slightly 
acidulated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 

The hydrosulphite solution is, however, very un¬ 
stable, especially at a higher temperature, and there¬ 
fore has to be always freshly prepared and added 
before using the stripping bath. 

Owing to this instability it has more recently been 
replaced by a stable hydrosulphite; the first repre¬ 
sentative of it was a stable zinc hydrosulphite, which, 
however, has found but little application in the prac¬ 
tice. Later on a chemical combination of hydrosul¬ 
phite with formaldehyde was produced which has 
stood the test. 

There are now found in commerce zinc hydrosul¬ 
phites, calcium hydrosulphites and formaldehyde sul¬ 
phites ; they serve primarily as discharging agents. 
The solid sodium hydrosulphite and its concentrated 
solutions are used as reducing agents. It is not 
necessary to enter into the details of discharging, in 
fact stripping is nothing but discharging, i. e., a 
destruction of the color by reduction. 

The methods of application of all the stable hydro¬ 
sulphite derivatives found in the market under the 
names of Hyraldite A, Decroline (By. and B. A. 
S. F.), Rongalite C, etc. are the same. Therefore 
the particulars will only be given for 

Stripping with hyraldite. Hyraldite has already 
been described on p. 125. For stripping, the goods 
are first cleansed in a dilute lukewarm solution of 
soda, followed by a thorough rinsing. They are 


326 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


then entered into a bath containing the following 
quantities calculated on the weight of the goods: — 
For light shades: Hyraldite A, from 3 to 1 per 
cent., acetic acid from 2 to 3 per cent. 

For dark shades: Hyraldite A, from 6 to 10 per 
cent., acetic acid from 4 to 6 per cent. 

In place of acetic acid, the same quantities of 
sodium bisulphite of 35 0 Be. may be used. 

The goods are entered into the lukewarm bath and 
the latter is brought to the boil in from 20 to 30 
minutes and maintained at that temperature for about 
15 minutes. The bath must remain acid the whole 
time, and more acetic acid has to be added if a test 
with litmus paper shows the necessity for it. The 
quantities of Hyraldite A to be used depend on the 
depth and fastness of the color to be stripped and 
on the degree of decoloration desired. The vessel 
employed for the bath must be of wood, and ex¬ 
posed steam-pipes must be wrapped in cotton cloth. 
The goods when lifted from the stripping bath are 
rinsed first in cold, and then in hot, water. 


XI. 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 

The dyer and cleaner should be able to analyze 
cloth by simple means. Linen, silk and wool are 
largely adulterated with cotton, and all these fibers 
behave differently even in ordinary washing. More¬ 
over, the varieties of unions and mixture cloths are 
constantly increasing, and in these days of merceriza- 
tion and other processes, the sight and touch are not 
sufficient to identify a material. Also, now that 
cellulose is being so largely used in the manufacture 
of artificial silk or lustra-cellulose, it is often import¬ 
ant to be able to decide the particular form of the 
cellulose employed in their formation, i. e ., whether 
the fibers are derived from nitro-compounds, pure 
cellulose, or mixed in origin, as when associated with 
gelatine or dissolved silk, and woven along with 
wool. 

In determining these various points there are now 
a number of methods which enable all these various 
questions to be very easily decided, and a complete 
analysis of any fabric containing mixed fibers or any 
mixture of fibers can thus be made. As a rule, in 
examining any mixture of textile fibers for ordinary 
purposes, it is only necessary to distinguish between 
wool and other animal fibers, and cotton, flax, jute, 

(327) 


328 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

hemp, and ramie in vegetable fibers, and silk, culti¬ 
vated, wild and artificial, as these are almost all the 
fibers in general use. 

The means employed are of two kinds: 

1. Mechanical , in which the specific differences in 
structure, as revealed under the microscope, are 
seen ; and 

2. Chemical , in which the distinctive colors and 
other reactions, when treated with various reagents 
are employed, or the variation in solubility or degree 
of solubility in different reagents. Also the differ¬ 
ence in degree of inflammability or behavior when 
subjected to various degrees of heat. 

Mechanical analysis. When the fibers are placed 
under the microscope, especially with transmitted 
light, and with powers varying from 20 to 500 
diameters, which is well within the range of any 
ordinary cheap, yet reliable, microscope, the follow¬ 
ing distinctions are usually clearly visible: 

Cotton. This fiber appears under the microscope 
as a granular striped band, mostly twisted in the 
shape of a corkscrew, which is more particularly 
evident when the fiber is moistened with water. 
The fiber is a flattened cylindric tube with thickened 
walls. 

Flax consists of the bast fibers from the plants of 
the Lininn family. Under the microscope the flax 
fiber appears as a long, straight, cylindrical tube of 
uniform thickness, either smooth or longitudinally 
striated, and frequently exhibiting transverse cracks. 
In many places it presents nodes and displacements, 
which cause it to look as though articulated. 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


329 


Hemp. Examined under the microscope the fiber 
of hemp is very similar to flax, exhibiting displace¬ 
ments, longitudinal fissures, and tranverse cracks; 
but it is less regular in thickness. The ends of the 
fibers are very characteristic, being very thick-walled 
and blunt, frequently branching sideways and thus 
affording a ready means of distinguishing this fiber 
from flax. 

Jute. In microscopic structure jute fiber exhibits 
a certain similarity to hemp and flax, but the longi¬ 
tudinal view shows neither displacement nor striations. 

Silk. Under the microscope the silk fiber ex- 
hibits the appearance of a clear, cylindrical double 
thread enclosed in a cloudy integument. It appears 
smooth and free from scales. 

Tussa/i silk. Under the microscope this variety 
of silk exhibits a highly characteristic appearance, 
differing greatly from true silk, the fibers showing 
strong striation and being apparently much con¬ 
stricted in parts. Unlike true silk, the fiber is not 
of circular cross section, but of elongated quadri¬ 
lateral form. 

Artificial silk or lustra-cellulose , is in appearance, 
under the microscope very similar to silk, but it does 
not exhibit the double strand of the cultivated silk, 
or the flattened and striated appearance of Tussah 
silk. 

Wool. When a fiber of sheep’s wool is examined 
tinder the microscope, it is seen to consist of three 
parts, distinguished respectively as the scaly epider¬ 
mis, the cortex and the medulla or pith. The outer 


330 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

scaly epidermis is composed of thin horny scales 
lying one above the other like the tiles of a roof. In 
the finer qualities of wool a single scale is generally 
sufficient to entirely surround the wool hair, so that 
the latter seem to be formed of a number of cups 
set one within another, the upper of each scale being 
also generally projecting, ragged, and serrated. The 
scales form the chief external characteristics of 
sheep’s wool, and render its detection under the 
microscope an easy task. 

Hair differs in appearance from wool, in so much 
as though it is usually covered with similar scales on 
the surface of the hair, they are always more closely 
adherent to the shaft of the hair and the edges are not 
turned outwards. Alpaca, vicugna, Cashmere goat 
hair, all closely resemble each other and mohair in 
having the scales more closely adherent to the shafts 
of hair than in the true wools. The hair of almost 
every class of animals has distinctive features, in the 
form and arrangement of the surface scales or the 
internal cells. 

Chemical analysis . There are many intricate and 
elaborate means of chemically examining fibers and 
fabrics, but they are too troublesome for the use of 
the cleaner and dyer, and we shall therefore confine 
ourselves to those which are more easily attainable. 

A very ready method of distinguishing between 
fibers of vegetable and animal origin is the way in 
which they burn when light is applied to them. 

Vegetable fibers , when dry, all ignite and burn with 
a^comparatively bright, smokeless and odorless flame, 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 331 

and leave very little ash. If the flame is extinguished 
before the whole of the fiber or thread is consumed, 
the fiber is burnt off sharply at the end, and leaves a 
blackened or carbonized edge where the burning 
ceased. 

Animal fibers , even when dry, and unless contain¬ 
ing an amount of extraneous fat or oil, are more diffi¬ 
cult to ignite, and unless the mass is large, the flame 
will frequently go out if the fiber is held horizontally, 
although if held vertically, and lighted at the bottom 
it may continue to burn without a fresh application 
of the light. The flame is usually more or less dull 
and lifeless, and burns slowly, with emission of a 
disagreeable empyreumatic odor, resembling the 
smell of burning feathers, and when extinguished the 
burnt edge is not clear and sharp, but fused into a 
rounded bead-like form, which retains the odor and 
feels sticky if crushed between the thumb and fingers. 

Cellulose forms the basis of all vegetable textile 
fibers (cotton, flax, hemp, etc.), and they, therefore, 
vigorously resist the action of even boiling-hot aque¬ 
ous solutions of the caustic alkalies, while they are 
strongly attacked by heated sulphuric, nitric, and 
hydrochloric acids, either in a concentrated or di¬ 
luted state. Thus, for instance, a cotton fabric may, 
without suffering great injury, be immersed in cold 
water containing 5 to 10 per cent, of acid; but on 
heating the fluid, especially to the boiling-point, the 
cotton in a short time becomes friable and dissolves. 

Fuming nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and 
sulphuric acids, does not dissolve the vegetable fiber 


332 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

but converts it, almost without changing its physical 
appearance, into gun-cotton. 

Ammonia, either at the ordinary or a raised tem¬ 
perature, produces no effect upon cotton and hemp. 
However, a solution of ammonia-oxide of copper 
(Schweitzer’s reagent) dissolves cotton, hemp, and 
flax. 

In a pure state, vegetable textile fibers have but a 
feeble affinity for artificially prepared coloring mat¬ 
ters, they being but slightly or not at all dyed by 
them, and the application of a little soap suffices to 
remove the dye. They do not evolve a character¬ 
istic odor in burning. 

Wool , on the other hand, resists the action of even 
concentrated and hot acids quite well, but is dissolved, 
especially at a higher temperature, by caustic lyes. 
Since wool contains sulphur, there is formed by its 
solution in caustic soda a fluid which contains alkaline 
sulphide and sulphydrate, which are indicated by a 
beautiful violet tint produced by the addition of 
nitro-prusside of sodium. Nitric acid imparts to 
wood an intense yellow color; chlorine and hypo¬ 
chlorites act in a similar manner, they also impart¬ 
ing to wool a yellow color. At the ordinary tem¬ 
perature Schweitzer’s reagent has no effect on wool, 
but when heated dissolves it. When decomposed 
by heat, wool evolves the characteristic ador of burnt 
horn. It possesses great affinity for coloring matters, 
especially for those artifically prepared, by which it 
is readily dyed without a mordant. 

Silk, when burned, evolves an odor similar to wool. 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


333 


It is dissolved, especially at higher temperatures, by 
the above-mentioned acids in a concentrated state. 
Cold nitric acid colors silk yellow. Acids diluted 
with water do not act very vigorously upon silk. 
Concentrated alkaline lyes dissolve it, but the solu¬ 
tion does not contain alkaline sulphide like that of 
wool. Silk is changed, but not dissolved, by very 
dilute alkaline lyes. Ammonia produces no effect 
on it, while Schweitzer’s reagent dissolves it. The 
affinity of silk for coloring matters is the same as 
that of wool. 

To establish the presence of vegetable fibers (cot¬ 
ton, hemp, flax, jute, etc.) in a tissue consisting of 
wool and silk, it is only necessary to boil the latter 
in a test-fluid containing 3^ ozs. solid caustic soda 
in one quart of water. Weigh out accurately y 2 to 
1 drachm of the fabric to be examined introduce 
this sample, together with quart of the soda-lye, 
into a porcelain casserole of about 1 pint capacity, 
and boil it over an alcohol or gas flame for five min¬ 
utes. If the mass dissolves, it consists only of animal 
fiber (silk or wool), but if it is not entirely dissolved, 
take the casserole from the fire, allow to settle, pour 
off the supernatant lye, and after adding fresh lye, 
boil again for five minutes. If a residue now re¬ 
mains, it consists entirely of vegetable fiber. If the 
vegetable fiber is colored, the residue is brought upon 
a small cotton filter and washed with hot water. The 
washed fiber is then brought into lukewarm water 
acidulated with about 5 per cent, hydrochloric acid. 
After ten minutes add a little chlorine-water, or a few 


334 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

drops of chloride of lime solution, whereby the vege¬ 
table fiber is bleached. The filtrate of the caustic 
soda solution, which contains wool or silk, may now 
immediately be tested as to the presence of wool. 
If the latter is present, alkaline sulphides have been 
formed, which remain in the solution. They can be 
immediately detected by the addition of a few drops 
of acetate of lead solution. If a white precipitate is 
formed, which is completely dissolved on shaking, 
silk only is present; however, if a black precipitate 
of sulphide of lead is formed, the tested tissue con¬ 
tains wool. Instead of acetate of lead solution, a few 
drops of nitro-prusside of sodium solution, may be 
used, which, as previously mentioned, produces in 
the presence of alkaline sulph : des a beautiful violet 
tint. 

If the tissue is provided with much coloring mat¬ 
ter, E. Kopp recommends to cut the sample into 
small pieces and immerse the latter, with occasional 
stirring, for five minutes in a mixture of 2 volumes 
sulphuric acid of 6o° Be. and I volume fuming nitric 
acid of 6o° Be. By this means the wool, silk, and 
coloring matters are oxidized and destroyed, while 
the vegetable fiber is converted into gun-cotton, and 
retains its characteristic fibrous nature. The whole 
is then brought into a comparatively large quantity 
of water, in which the gun-cotton deposits. The 
fluid is then poured off, while the residue is collected 
upon a filter, thoroughly washed, and dried. The 
dry residue now shows the explosive property of gun¬ 
cotton. 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


335 


For testing white, or not too dark-colored, mixed 
tissues, the affinity of the animal fibers for the arti¬ 
ficially-prepared coloring matters may also be uti¬ 
lized. Dark-colored tissues must first be decolorized 
by treatment with weak chlorine-water, and subse¬ 
quent thorough washing in boiling water. Certain 
precautions have, however, to be observed, since cot¬ 
ton, especially when impregnated with amylaceous 
or other substances serving for sizing, may also be 
dyed with aniline colors. These substances must 
first be removed, and for this purpose the tissue is 
first boiled for ten minutes in water which contains 
in ioo parts 2 parts of carbonate of soda and a little 
soap. The tissue is then rinsed in hot water, next 
steeped for five to ten minutes in water of 120° to 
140° F., which contains 2 per cent, of hydrochloric 
or sulphuric acid, and finally thoroughly washed. 
In the meanwhile prepare a dye-bath, by, for in¬ 
stance, dissolving a few drachms of fuchsine in 25 to 
30 cubic centimeters of water, heating the solution 
to boiling, and adding, during the boiling, caustic 
soda solution, drop by drop, until the bath shows 
only a pale rose color. Now remove the bath from 
the fire and introduce the tissue; take it out after a 
few minutes, thoroughly wash it in clean water and 
dry. The silk and woolen threads will be colored 
bright red, while the cotton, flax, etc., remain un¬ 
colored. 

For the detection of silk in wool, or wool in silk, 
in white or light-colored tissues, the presence of sul¬ 
phur in the wool may be utilized. Prepare a solution 


336 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


of oxide of lead in caustic soda by boiling litharge in 
the latter and, after settling, pouring off the clear 
fluid. Immerse the tissue in the latter. In conse¬ 
quence of their content of sulphur the woolen threads 
immediately become black by the formation of black 
sulphide of lead, while the color of the silk- threads, 
which contain no sulphur, remains unchanged. 

A simple method consists in the use of concen¬ 
trated acids. Cold nitric acid dissolves- silk, while 
wool is not perceptibly attacked by it. Silk acts in 
the same manner towards sufficiently concentrated 
cold sulphuric acid. The last-mentioned acid at the 
same time frees the wool from vegetable fibers by 
converting them into gum and sugar. 

It is better, however, to immerse the sample of the 
tissue in cold concentrated hydrochloric acid. The 
silk is in a short time completely dissolved, while the 
woolen and vegetable fibers remain behind un¬ 
changed. Now add water, collect the unchanged 
woolen and vegetable fibers upon a filter, and wash 
thoroughly. As a rule, they must also be decolor¬ 
ized. 

Now to distinguish the woolen from the vegetable 
fibers, treat them either with boiling caustic soda-lye, 
which only dissolves the wool, or use artificially-pre¬ 
pared coloring matters, such as fuchsine, aniline- 
violet, or picric acid, which do not dye the cotton if 
the necessary precautionary measures are taken. 

Before subjecting the tissues to a chemical test, it 
is advisable to free them from their sizing and color¬ 
ing-matters, the first of which is effected by succes- 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 337 

sive treatment with boiling water, either pure or 
slightly acidulated, or made alkaline by the addition 
of carbonate of soda, and the latter by chlorine- 
water. The tissues are finally carefully washed and 
dried. 

Below a summary for distinguishing the purity of 
a fabric by chemical agents is given: — 

Cotton is completely decomposed by, and forms 
a powder after being immersed in, strong hydro¬ 
chloric acid and dried.—It is completely decomposed 
in a hot and strong solution of nitric acid.—Weak 
sulphuric acid stains cotton blue. 

Cotton in linen cloth can be detected by immersion 
in caustic potash solution (1 to 2), and then washing 
and drying. The flax is colored a deep yellow, but 
the cotton is not affected.—Boiled in concentrated 
sulphuric acid for a minute or two, the cotton fiber 
is dissolved, but not the flax.—Boiled in water and 
dried, immersed in a strong solution of common salt 
and sugar, and then burnt, the cotton yields a black, 
and the flax a gray, ash. 

To determine whether a so-called woolen cloth con¬ 
tains cotton , a 2 per cent, soda lye may be used. 
After drying, the fibers are separated. The remain¬ 
ing wool is weighed and compared with the original 
weight. 

Jute is colored dark brown by sulphuric acid. 

Linen acquires a blue color when treated with 
dilute sulphuric acid. 

Silk is dissolved by hot solutions of caustic soda, 
and destroyed by strong solutions of zinc chloride. 


22 


338 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 

Strong solutions of hydrochloric, nitric and sulphuric 
acids dissolve silk immediately. 

Tussah silk is stronger than true silk. It is not 
affected by a weak solution of caustic soda, which 
will dissolve true silk. 

Cotton present in a so-called woolen fabric dissolves 
in a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. 

Cloth containing silk and wool can be recognized 
by boiling in a hydrochloric acid solution. The silk 
is dissolved while the wool swells. 

Iodine and sulphuric acid in weak solution impart 
a blue stain to flax , a greenish-yellow stain to hemp; 
a blue stain to rhea fiber; a dark yellow stain to jute. 

Caustic soda in a solution of about 26.5° Be causes 
the cotton fiber to shrink in length and become more 
transparent and lustrous. Cloth treated thus is called 
mercerized cloth . 

The difference between mercerized and unmercer¬ 
ized cotton is easily detected by using the test first 
pointed out by Prof. Julius Hubner, of the Manches¬ 
ter Municipal Technical College. If the two cottons 
are immersed in a solution of zinc chloride, 100 Cc. 
of solution containing 93.3 grammes of zinc chloride, 
to which two drops of a solution of iodine in potas¬ 
sium iodide have been added, the ordinary cotton 
remains white, while the mercerized cotton takes a 
dark navy-blue color, The depth of the color ac¬ 
quired measures the degree of mercerization to which 
the cotton has been subjected. 

The following tables give at a glance the reactions 
of animal and vegetable fibers, undyed or after re- 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


339 


moval of the dye by bleaching, with various chemi¬ 
cal reagents, and the reactions of various dyeing 
materials. 


Table of Reactions of Animal and Vegetable Fibers. 


340 


DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 


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Table of Reactions of Various Dyeino Materials. 


ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


341 











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INDEX 


A CETIC acid, 76 
^ reduction with, 121 

ether, 72 

Aceto-oxalic acid, 109, no 
Acetone, 72 

Acid dye-stuffs, dyeing furs with, 221, 222 
wool with, 304 

oxalate, 80 
stains, 87, 104 
Alcohol, 71, 72 

Alkali, anhydrous extract of, 15 
Alum for fire-proofing fabrics, 208 
Ammonia, 72, 73, 117 

as a fire-extinguishing agent, 24 
in water, test for, 140 
soap, 84, 85 

Analysis of textile fabrics, 327-341 
Anhydrous extract of alkali, 15 
Aniline color stains, 107 

colors, stripping, 320, 321 
Animal and vegetable fibers, table of re¬ 
actions of, 340 
fibers, analysis of, 331 
Antibenzinpyrin, 8, 9, 10 
Antimacassars, washing of, 173-175 
Apvrine starch, 210 
Artificial perfume stains, 111, 112 
silk, analysis of, 329 
Axle grease stains, 74 

B and block, 268 

Barege garments, washing of, T56 
Basic dye-stuffs, dyeing wool with, 305 
Beer stains. 98, 103, 128 
Benzine, 6, 7 

addition of soap to, 26 
and carbon tetrachloride, mixture of. 
20 

cleaning establishment, designing 
and construction of, 22, 23 
deodorizaticn of, 54, 55 
dirtv, plant for collecting and redis¬ 
tilling, 56-58 

discovery of the detergent properties 
of, 1 

distinction of, from benzol, 16 
explosion of. 21 
filtering of, 52, 53 
gelatinized, 97, 98 
heavy, 35 

mixture of, with other spotting 
agents, 73, 74 
oleates soluble in, 8 


Benzine, purification of, 52-63 

by distillation, 55-63 
with sulphuric acid, 
53, 54 

soap, 7-9 

liquid, ix, 12, 14 
solid, 14, 15 
solubility of, 9 
universal, 11 

water-absorbing power of, 8 
soaps, formulas for, 13-15 
soluble soap solution, 12, 13 
stills, 58-63 
storage ot, 22, 23 
vapor, inhalation of, 26 
vessel for cleaning gloves, 280 
washing, 40-47 

machines, 36-38 
points in, 40-47 
wet, treatment of, 31 
Benzmized magnesia, 96, 97 
Benzoic acid, 162 
Benzol, 15, 16 

explosion of, 21 
Benzolinrr, 81 

Beschormer’s process for removing ink 
stains, 108, 109 

Binding soft or stiff hats, 273, 274 
Binoxalate of potassium, 80 
Bird he ids, washing, 251 
skinj, wa-hing, 251 
wings, washing, 251 
Blanchissine, 90 

Blankets, white woolen, bleaching of, 

160-164 

sulphuring of, 159 
Bleaching apparatus, electric, 167, 168 
chamber for woolens) 158 
electric, 165-168 
feathers, 231 
fluids, 79 
jute, 164, 165 

liquor, electrolytic, 160, 163 
powder, 160, 161 

processes applicable to spotting, 119-5 
136 

sheepskins, 216, 217 
straw and straw hats, 275-277 
white wool blankets, 160-164 
garments, 169-164 
or silk articles with perox¬ 
ides, 160 

with hydrogen peroxide, 161, 162 


(343 ) 





344 


INDEX. 


Bleaching with potassium permanganate, 

119-124 

and sulphurous 

• acid, 159, 160 

sodium peroxide, 162-164 
sulphur, 1 e.8 

Blocking solt or stifl hats, 270 
Blocks, 265, 266 

Blonde laces, washing of, 175-178 
Blood stains 74, 89, no. 129, 134 
Borax, 77 

for fire-proofing fabrics, 208 
Bran for washing, 150 
Buckskin gloves, cleaning, 285 

white, washing of, 130 
Burns, treatment of, 27, 28 
Bust finishing machine, 198 

C ALCIUM chloride for fire-proofing 
fabrics, 208 , 

Calico, soap for the removal of stains 
lrom, 83, 84 

Caps, white cloth, cleaning of, 169 
Carbon dioxide, reducing efiect of, 120 
tetrachloride, 18-21 
ad van rages o', 19 
mixture of, with benzine, 20 
storage of. 20, 21 
use of, for spotting, 74, 75 
vapors of, 27 
Carbonate of soda,118 
Carpets, dry-cleaning of, 51, 52 
wet-cleaning of. 185-187 
Cassella & Co.’s process for dyeing furs 
with acid dve-stuffs, 221, 222 
C entnfugal, 189 

Chamois gloves, cleaning, 284. 285 
Chemical analysis of fibers, 330-338 
Cherry stains, 101 

Chicken feathers, dveing, black, 253-255 
washing, 250, 251 
Chloride of lime, 78, 79 
Chlorine combinations in water, indica¬ 
tions of, 140 
water, 79 
Chloroiorm, 71 
Chocolate stains, 74, r28 
Cincinnati hand extractor, 43, 44 
Citric acid, 80, 1T7 
Cleaned fabrics, finishing of, 188-210 
Cleaning and dyeing feathers, 229-261 

furs, skin rugs and mats. 
2x1 228 

gloves, 280-289 
renovating *felt, straw, and 
Panama hats; bleaching 
and dyeing straw and 
straw hats, 263-279 
fabrics dyed with sensitive colors, 
mixture for, 84 
felt h its, 269, 270 
process, 28-52 
satin, 95, 96 
siik. 95. 96 

woolen goods, mixture for, 95 
Cloaks, wet-washing of, 146 


Cloth coats, ladies’, cleaning of, 51 
water-proofing of, 207 
Clutch, electric, 265 
Coats, ladies’ cloth, cleaning of, 51 
Coffee stains, 74. 98, 102. 103, 128, 134 
Colored articles, behavior of oxygenol to¬ 
wards, 134. 135 

fabiics. behavior of hydrogen perox¬ 
ide towards, 130-133 

Colors, stripping, from garments and 
fabrics, 320 326 
freshening of. 153 
Combination curling shackle, 267 
Cones for drying, 189 
Copal stains 65, 66 
Corsets, washing of, 151 
Cotton and linen garments containing 
jute, dveing,7318. *19 
wool goods, mixed, dyeing, 
3 ? 2 - 3*5 

dyeing black,313 
cornflower- 
blue, 314 
crimson, 313, 
dark blue, 313 
brown, 313 
gray. 3*4 
green, 314 
sage, 314, 
3i5 
drab. 314 
orange, 314 
peacock green, 
3i5 

sage brown, 
3'4 

scarlet, 213 
slate, 314 

detection of, 337 
fabrics, water-proofing of, 207 
fiber, analysis of, 328 
garments, washing of, T50, 151 
goods, dressing for. 202 
dyeing, 315 318 
black, 317, 318 
blue, 317 
brown, 3T7 
claret, 316 
crimson red, 316 
green. 317 
maroon, 316 
orange, 317 
pink,316 
salmon, 316 
scarlet, 3x6 
violet, 317 
yellow, 3x7 

precautions in removing stains 
from, 67, 68 
spotting fluid for, 92 
stripping, 323 

in linen cloth, detection of, 337 

woolen cloth, detection of, 337, 338 
mercerized, 338 

and unmercerized, detection of 
difference between, 338 




INDEX. 


345 


Cream gloss, 206 
Curling ho.-rd s 266 
feathers. 259-261 
shackle, 267 
solt or stiff hats, 271 
tool. 260, 261 
Curtains, finishing of. 193 
starch tor, 193. 194 
washing ol, 178-180 
Cushion covers, washing of, 173-175 

"TfEODO R 1 ZATION of benzine, 54, 55 
Distillation, purification of ben¬ 
zine by,55-63 
Dog skins, cleaning of, 211 
Dressing feathers, 230 
fire-proot, 210 

for garment dyers and laundrymen, 
205 

laces, 191, 192 
ladtes' garments, 302 
silk articles, 191 
white embroideries, 193 
Dressings, spravers for sprinkling, 189 
Driers, location ol, 23 
Dry, chemical, or French cleaning, 1-63 
-cleaning and wet-cleamng, close 
connection between, 2 
business, mistakes with regard 
to the, 4, 5 
carpet*., 51, 52 

classification of the process of, 28 
establishment, plant of a, 35, 36 
precautions in, 21, 28 
goods less suitable tor, 29 
not suitable for, 29 
suitable for, 29 
liquids for. 4 
object of, 69. 70 
origin of the phrase of, 3 
process of, in smaller establish¬ 
ments, 31-34 
Drying chamber, 35, 36 
cylinder, 203 
drum for feathers, 262 
frame for feathers, 259 
frames, 189 

machine for feathers, 259 
table, 203 

wet cleaned garments, apparatus for, 
189 

Duck leathers, dyeing, 256, 257 
Dust coats, cleaning of, 91 
removal of, 30 
stains, Q4 
wheel, 30 

Dye-stufls tor furs, 221 
silks, 294 

wool and silk fabrics, 301, 
302 

Dyeing cotton and linen garments con¬ 
taining jute, 318, 319 
goods, 315-318 
fancy feathers, 250-258 
feathers, 231-235 
garments, 290 319 


Dyeing materials, table of reactions of, 
34i 

mixed cotton and wool goods, 312- 
3*5 

ostrich feathers, 235-250 
silks, 292-301 

straw and straw hats, 277 279 
wool and silk fabrics, 301-303 

garments and fabrics, 303-312 


I 


Tj'AU de Javelle, 79 

preparation of, 171 
F.gg, yolk of, 118, 119 
Elastic gl ss starch, 206 
Electric bleaching, 165-168 

apparatus, 167, 168 
clutch, 265 

excitation, prevention of, 26 
sparks, ignition by, 24. 25 
Electrolytic bleaching bquor, 160, 161 
Embiotderies, fine colored, cleaning of 


finishing of, 19T, 192 
on linen, washing of, 175-178 
w hite, dressing lor, 193 
English spotting fluid, 87 
Ether, 70 

Etherized magnesia, 98 
Explosion, conditions for, 21 


T^ABRICS dyed with sensitive colors, 
mixtme for cleaning, 84 
Fancy feathers, cleaning, 250-252 
decolorizing, 252 
degreasing, 252 
dyeing, 250-258 
black, 253-257 
bronze, 257,258 
changeant, 258 
gold, 257, 258 
green, 257, 258 
olive, 257, 258 
ombre, 258 

Fat bath for glov es, 283 
Feather boas, washing of, 41 

ornamental articles, washing of, 4T 
Feathers, bleaching, 231 
brightening, 229 
cleaning, 259-231 

and dyemg, 229-261 
curling, 259-261 
dressing, 230 
drying, 258,259 
white, rewhitening of, 230, 231 
Felt hats, cleaning, 269, 270 

str„w and Panama hats, tools for 
cleaning and renovating, 263 
Fibers, animal and vegetable, table of re¬ 
actions ol, 340 
textile, analysis of, 328-341 
Fichus, finishing of, 190, 191 
Filtering benzine, 52, 53 
Finishing cleaned fabrics, 188 210 
object of, 188 
operation included in, 188 
Fire, means of lessening risk of, 25, 26 








346 


INDEX. 


Fire proof dressing, 2x0 

proofing fabrics, formulas for, 208, 
209 

starch, 209, 2x0 
Firing spontaneous, 25 
Flange stand, 266 
Flanges, 266 

Flanging soft or Panama hats, 272 
Flannel undershirts, washing of, 169 
Flat-pressing machine, 198 
Flax fiber, analvsis of, 328 
Formic acid, reduction with, 121 
Fruit stains, xoi, 128, 134 
Fur collars, washing of, 2x5, 218-220 
Furs, cleaning and dyeing of, 211-228 
dirty, cleaning of, 212, 213 
drying, 228 
dyeing, 220-228 

black, 222, 223, 224, 225 
bright green, 228 
brown, 222, 223, 226, 227 
chestnut, 226 
deep blue black, 226 
gray, 222 
golden, 226 
maroon, 228 
orange, 228 
russet, 226 
scarlet, 226 
silver gray, 226 
examination ot, 211 
Fusel oil, 76 

/4 ALI.OONS, gold and silver, washing 
^ of, 182, 183 

Galvanic method of removing rust stains, 

„ 113 

Garment dyeing, 290 319 

dyer, directions for the removal of 
stains for the, 116-119 
dyers, dressing for, 205 
of artificial silk, washing of, 154, 155 
Garments and fabucs, stripping colors 
from, 320 326 
drying ot, 30, 31 

grease stains upon the back of, 99 
half-wool and wool, washing of, 152, 
. I 53 

lined, removal of stains from, 91 
object of dry-cleaning, 69, 70 
of raw silk, washing of, 156 

unweighted silk, washing of, 153 
weighted silk, washing of, 153,154 
removal of dust from, 30 

greasv shine from, 106 
shrunken, drying ot, 189 
trimmed with black velvet, washing 
of, 156, 157 

wet-cleaned, quick drying of, 189 
Gasoline, danger from, 22 
Gauntlets, cleaning, 285 
Gel tine stains, 103 
Gelatinized benzine, 97, 98 
Gloria, dyeing. 301-303 
Gloss starch, 206 
Glove brushes, 281 


Glove hands, 281 
stick, 280, 281 

Gloves, appliances for cleaning, 280 
cleaning and dyeing, 280-289 
dyeing, 287 289 
black, 287 
brown, 287 
dye-stuffs for, 288 
gray, 288 

morocco-ied, 287, 288 
w'ith aniline colors, 288, 289 
fat bath for, 283 
machines for cleaning, 285, 286 
restoring luster to, 282 
silk, cleaning of, 170 
white, cleaning of, 130, 282-284 
Glue stains, removal of, 74, 103 
I Glycerin, 76, 77 
[ Goat skins, cleaning of, 211 
; Gold galloons, washing oi, 182, 183 
laces, washing of, 182 
Goose feathers, dyeing, 256, 257 
Grass stains, 104 
Gravy stains, 74 
Grease stains, 87, 89, 96, 99, 103 
Greasy shine, removal of, from garments, 
106 

Grouvelle’s bleaching fluid, 79 
Gypsum in water, test for, 140 

H AAS and Oettel’s electric bleaching 
apparatus, 167, 168 
Hair, analysis of, 330 
-dye stains, 85 * 

Half-wool fabrics, dressing for, 202, 205 
goods, spotting fluid for, 92 
Hand-ironing, 190 

Handkerchiets, silk, washing of, 169, 170 
Hasselbach’s method of clarifying ben¬ 
zine, 54 

Hat, round-crown soft, block for, 265 
soft, block for, 265 
square crown Panama, block for, 266 
| Hats, soft or Panama, flanging, 272 
stiff, binding, 273, 274 
blocking, 270 
curling, 27X 

lueringor polishing, 272 
measuring sweat leather 
f° r . ?74 

pouncing or finishing, 
271, 272 
setting, 271 

white felt, cleaning of, 169 
Hatters’ irons, 268 
Heart-shaped tolliker, 267 
Hemp fiber, analysis of, 329 
, Hexcl, 90, gi 
Hydrochloric acid, 81, 116 
Hydro extractors, 42 44, 189 
covers tor, 23 

Hydrogen peroxide as a spotting agent, 
126-143 

behavior of, towards col¬ 
ored fabrics, 130-133 
bleaching with, 161, 162 








INDEX. 


347 


Hydrogen peroxide, commercial, use of, 
for spotting, 127, 128 
improving the stability of, 
127 

preservatives for, 162 
reduction with, 120, 121 
stripping with, 322, 323 
Hyposulphite of sodium, 78 
Hydrosulphurous acid, reduction with, 

122, 123 

stripping with, 323- 
3 2 5 

Hyraldite, stripping with, 325, 326 

"I GNITION by electric sparks, 24, 25 
spontaneous, indication of, 23, 24 
Ink stains, 107-110, 129, 282 
Iron in water, test for, 141 
mold stains, 107, 108 
stains, 112, 113 
Ironing tables, 190 
Irons, 190 

hatters’, 268 


TUDLIN, M., discovery of the deter- 
** gent properties of benzine by, 1 
Jute, bleaching of, 164, 165 
detection of, 337 
fiber, 68 

analysis of, 329 


K ettle stains, 293 

Kid gloves, cleaning, 281-284 
dyeing, 286, 287 
Kingfishers’ skins, dyeing, 257 


T ACES, black silk, finishing of, 193 
■U dressing for, 191. 192 
finishing of, 191, 192 
washing of, 175-182 
Lactophenine, 162 
Ladies’ cloth coats, cleaning of, 51 
garments, dressing for, 202 
drving of, 189 
finishing of, 202-205 
wet-washing of, 148 151 
haK-wool and wool garments, wash¬ 
ing of, 152, 153 

Lamb, dye-stuffs for furs recommended 
by, 221 

Laundry men, dressing for, 205 
Leather, spotting fluids for, 86, 87 
Leghorn hats, formulas for cleaning, 274, 

2 75 . 

Leopard skins, cleaning of, 211 
Lime in water, test for, 140 
stains, 105 

Linen and cotton garments containing 
jute, dyeing, 318, 319 
definition of, 68 
detection ot, 337 
fabrics, dressing for, 202 
in cotton cloth, detection of, 337 
Lion skins, cleaning of, 211 
Liquid benzine soap, ri, 12, 14 
spotting soap, 84 


Luering or polishing soft or stiff hats, 
272 

Lunar caustic stains, mixture for, 85 
Luster garments,washing of, 156 
Lustro-cellulose, analysis of, 329 
Lye stains, 105 

M ACHINES for pressing clothes by 
steam, 199-202 
Magnesia, benzimzed, 96, 97 
etherized, 98 

Magnesium chloride for fire-proofing 
fabrics. 208 

Magpies’ skins, dyeing, 257 
Marking-ink stains, 85 
Martin’s fire-proof dressing, 210 
Mechanical analysis of textile fibers,328- 
33? . 

Medicine stains, 85 
Men’s coats, pressing of, 197 

steam board for the sleeves of, 195 
garments, finishing of, 194 202 
sorting of, 143, 144 
wei-washing of, 143-T48 
summer garments, dressing for, 202 
Mercerized cotton, 338 

and unmercerized cotton, detection 
of difference between, 338 
Mergen, A. J., processes and formulas 
for cleaning and renovating felt and 
straw hats by, 263 
Metallic oxide stains, no, m 
Mildew stains. 113, 114 
Milk stains, 98, 102. 103, 128 
Mold st ins, 113, 114, 129 
Mordant dyes, dyeing wool with, 305, 306 
Morning dresses, cleaning of, 91 
Mottled soaps, 118 
Mud stains, 94, 95 
Muffs, cleaning of, 218-220 

1 VITRATE of silver stains 85, 106, 107 
Nitric acid in water, test for, 140 
stains, 104 

stripping with, 321, 322 

Nut stains, 104 

O IL paint stains, 74, 89, 148 

Oleates, acid, absorption of water 
by. 8 

soluble in benzine, 8 
Ostrich feathers, t leaning, 235, 236 
decolorizing, 236, 237 
degreasing, 237, 238 
dr> ing, 258, 259 
dyeing, 235-250 
admiral, 244 
bamboo, 241 
beige, 243 
black, 239,240 
borde, 247 250 
bouton d’or, 242 
bronze, 240 
butter, 242 
cardinal. 242, 243 
chartreuse, 243 







348 


INDEX. 


Ostrich feathers, coq rocbe, 242 

coquilicot, 242, 243 
cream, 240, 241 
cresson, 243 

dark mirror, light border, 
248-250 

dull lierv tones, 244 
Etna, 244 
garnet, 243 
gold, 240, 242 
graduating shades, 250 
gray, 242 

-blue, 244 
green, 240 

-blue. 244, 245 
heliotrope, 242 
ivory, 240. 241 
light mirror, dark border, 
247, 248 
maize. 241 
mandarin, 242 
maioon, 245 
navv,244 
old rose, 244 
olive, 240. 243 
ombr'S 245-247 
pale blue, 241, 242 
parme, 242 
prune,242 
rose 241 
russe, 244 
salmon, 241 
Siam, 243 
tobacco, 243 
tricolored, 245-247 
vesuve, 244 
yellow-green, 243 
white, removal of brown spots 
and points from, 238 
Overcoats, wet-washing of, 146 
Oxalic acid, 80, 117 

reduction with, 121, 122 
Ox-gall, 81, 118 

preservation of, 83 

Oxygenol as a spotting agent, 133-135 
behavior of, towards colored articles, 
*34, *35 


P 


AINT stains, 99 

Panama hat, flange for, 266 

square crown, block for, 
266 

hats, flanging. 272 

formulas for cleaning, 274, 


275 

measuring sweat leather for, 
274 

Pantaloons, pressing of, 197,198 
steam-board 'or, 195 
Paraffine stains, 148 
Parasols, cleaning of, 183 185 
Parrot feathers, dyetng, 257 
Peacock feathers, dyeing, 257 
Perfumes, artificial, stains of, in, 112 
Peroxide, bleaching white wool or silk 
articles with, r6o 


Perspiration stains, T05, 106, 155 
Petroleum ether, 6, 7 
Phenacetine, 162 

Phosphoric acid, reduction with, 121, 122 
Pigeon leathers, dveing, 255 
Plush articles, finishing of, 193 
draperies, finishing of, 194 
st.-ins in, 91 

Polar bear skins, cleaning of, 211 
Pongees, prevention of water rings in, 93 
Potassium permanganate and sulphurous 
acid, bleaching with, 
159,160 

bleaching with, 119-124 
Potash soaps, soft, 118 
Pouncing or finishing a soft or stiff hat, 
271, 272 

Pressing clothes by hand, disadvantages 
of, 198, 199 

machines, manufactured by the 
United States Hoffman Co., 199- 
202 

men’s garments, directions for, 197, 
198 

Puff irons, s’eam-heated, 203-205 
Pun< h stains, 103 
Purification of benzine, 52 63 

Q UILLAIA bark extract, T47 

washing with, 147 

R ABBTT skins, cleaning of. 211 
Rain coats, cleaning of, 91 
Ramsey’s bleaching fluid, 79 
Fed wine stains, 101, 134 
Removal of stains or spotting, 64-136 
Resch’s apparatus lor washing, rinsing 
and draining the articles, 38 40 
Resin stains, 87. 99. roo, 148 
Richter, L>r. M.. investigaiions of, 8, 25 
Rinsing machines, covers for, 23 
Roberts, Cushman & Co., tools for clean¬ 
ing and renovating hats, supplied by, 
264-269 

Rust stains, 65, 112, 113, 282 

APONINE, to, t 1 
^ ’ Satin, cleaning of, 05, 96 
Schwemmer's spotting fluid, 87 
Scouring table, 44 
water, 82 

Seal skins, e'eaning of, 211 
Set stick, 268 

Setting, soft or stiff hats, 271 
Seyda’s method for spotting in the cold 
way, 123, 124 
Shading box. 246 
Shawls, finishing, 190, 191 
Sheepskins, bleaching of, 216, 217 
cleaning of, 211 
washing of. 215 2x8 
Shot effects, production of, 303 
Sili' ate of soda for fire-proofing fabrics, 
208 

Silk and wool cloth, recognition of, 338 
articles, dressing for, 191 




INDEX. 


349 


Silk articles, light colored, washing of, 
168,169 

artificial, analysis of, 329 

washing garments of, 154, 155 
cleaning of, 95, 96 
cloths, washing of, 170 
dete< tion of, 337, 338 
fabrics, dressing lor, 205 

impairment ol luster of, 67 
white, washing of, 157-160 
fiber, analysis of, 329, 332, 333 
garments, prevention of water rings 
in » 93 

glo\es, cleaning of, 170 
goods, cleaning of, 45 
handkerchiefs, washing of, 169, 170 
in wool, detection of, 335 337 
laces, black, finishing of, 193 
washing of, 181, 182 
light colored, protection of, from 
stripping, 155 

raw, washing garments of, 156 
shawls, 4, 5, 191 

soap for removal of stains from, 83 
spotting fluid for, 92 
stockings, washing of, 170 
unweighted, washing garments of, 
x 53 . . 

weighted, washing garments of, 153, 
x 54 

white, bleaching of, with sodium per¬ 
oxide, 162-164 

Silks, colored, cleaning of, 46, 47 
dye-stuffs for, 294 
dyeing, 292 301 

black, 295, 296 
blue, 298 
bluish reds, 297 
Bordeaux red, 296 
bright green, 299, 300 
cherry red, 297 
crimson, 297 
' dark brown, 296 
fancy colors, 300 
gold, 296 
gray, 299 
heliotrope, 299 
navy blue, 298 
prune, 299 
rose color, 297, 298 
salmon rose, 298 
scarlet, 297 
silver gray, 299 
tobacco brown, 296 
removal of stains from, with water, 

69 . 

stripping, 321 

Silver galloons, washing of, 182, 183 
* laces, washing of, 181, 182 
Skin mats, cleaning and dyeing of, 211- 
228 

rugs, cleaning and dyeing of, 2x1-228 
Skins, dirty, cleaning of, 212, 213 
drying of, 228 
dyeing, 220-228 

black, 222, 223, 224, 225 


Skins, dyeing, bright green, 227 
brown, 222, 223, 226, 227 
chestnut, 226 
deep blue black, 226 
golden, 226 
gray, 222 
maroon, 228 
orange,227 
russet, 226 
scarlet, 226 
silver gray, 226 

hard and dirty, softening of, 215 
restoration of, 213 
soap-washing of, 218 
white, cleaning of, 2it, 212 
Skirt boards, 190 
Soap, ammonia, 84, 85 
breaking of, 9 

for all kinds of stains, 82, 83 
dressing laces, 192 
removal of stains from calico, 83, 

84 

silk, 83 

vinegar stains, 82 
wet-cleaning, 138 
wine stains, 82 
liquid spotting, 84 
mottled, xi8 
sodium peroxide, 136 
soft potash, 118 

solution, benzine-soluble, 12, 13 
Soda crystals, 118 
Sodium hyposulphite, 78 

peroxide as a spotting agent, 135,136 
bleaching with, 162-164 
soap, 136 

Solid benzine soap, 14, 15 
Soup stains, 98, 103 
Soui wine stains, 104 
Souring men’s garments, 145 
Spinner, 268 

Spotting agents, principal, 70-73 
and washing agents, various, 82 
bleaching processes applicable to, 
119 136 
fluids, 85-87 

in the cold way, Seyda’s method for, 
123, 124 

or removal of stains, 64-136 
paste, 87 
pencils, 87, 88 
recent mixtures for, 81, 82 
soap, liquid, 84 

with hydrogen peroxide, 126-133 
hyraldite, 125, 126 
oxygenol, 133-125 
sodium peroxide, 135, 136 
Sprayers, 189 
Spraying bottle, 93 
Spring rounding jack, 268 
Squirrel skins, cleaning of, 2x1 
Stains, classes of, 64 

combined method of removing, 124, 
I2 5 . 

covering of, 91 
mixture for, 148 







350 


INDEX. 


Stains, nature of, 5 

agents for removing, 65 
of unknown derivation, 87, 95 
operations in removing, 92 
removal of. or spotting, 64 136 
soap for all kinds of, 82, 83 
tools for the removal of, 65 
Stannous chloride, 78 
Starch, apyrine, 210 

fire-proofing, 209, 210 
for curtain*, 193, 194 
formulas for, 206 
ttough, 143 
Steam-hoard, 194, 195 
table, 195 
use of, 116 

Steamers, 190, 195-197 
Stearin stains, 100, 148 
Stills lor distilling benzine, 58-63 
Stockings, silk, washing of, 170 
Straw and straw hats, bleaching, 275-277 
dyeing, 277 279 
beige,277,278 
cardinal, 278 
dark green, 
279 

marine blue, 
279 

genda rme 
blue, 278 
myrtle green, 
. 279 

silver gray, 
279 

tobacco brown, 
278 

hats, formulas for clearing, 274, 275 
measuring sweat leather lor, 274 
Stretch block, 268 

Stripping cclors from garments and fab¬ 
rics, 320-326 

pr tection of light-colored silks from, 
_ , T 55 

Suede gloves, cleaning, 285 
Sugar stains. 98, 103 
Sulphur, bleaching with, 158 
stains, 158, 159 
Sulphuric acid, 116 

purification of benzine with, 

_ , , . 53 , 54 

Sulphurous acid, 116, 117 
Sweat leather for soft, stiff, Panama and 
straw hats, measuring, 274 
Sweaters, washing of, 169 

rFABLE covers, washing of, 172 

of best means of removing stains, 
114. 115 

reactions of animal and vege¬ 
table fibers, 340 
various dyeing 
materials, 341 

Tannin stains, 104 

Tar stains, removal of, 74, 87, 99,100,148 
Tartaric acid, 80 
Tea stains, 98 


Tetrachloro-menthane, 18-21 
r \ etrapol, 88-90 
Tiger skins, cleaning of, 211 
Tin salt, 78 

Tissues, mixed, testing, 335 
spotting fluids for, 86, 87 
Tollikers, 267 

Tungstate of soda for fire-proofing fab¬ 
rics, 208, 209 

Turkey feathers, dyeing, 255 
Turpentine, 16-18 
Tussah silk, detection of, 338 
fiber, analysis o', 329 


TJNDERGARMENTS, woolen, wash- 
^ ing of, 169 

Uniform cloaks, wet-washing of, 146 
United States Hoffman t o., pressing 
machines manufactuied by the, 199-202 
Universal benzine soap, n 
Urine stains, 148 
Ursols for dyeing furs, 223, 224 


YTARNISH stains, 75, 99, 148 
' Vegetable and animal fibers, table 
of reactions of, 340 
fibers, analysis of, 330, 


determination of, in 
wool and silk tissue, 

333 . 334 

Veils, washing of, 180, 181 
Velvet, genuine, dyeing, 300, 301 

goods, real, cleaning and renovating 
. of, 47-51 

light colored, cleaning of, 50 
stains in, 91 
steamers. 49, 50 
steaming of, 48, 49 
white, cleaning of, 50, 51 
Vinegar stains, soap for, 82 
Vollbrecht's dnections for pressing men’s 
garments, 197, 198 


'Vy'AGON-f.REASE stains, 99, 100,148 
' ' Waistcoats, Dressing of, 197, 198 
wet-washing of, 145 

Washing and spotting agents, various, 82 
machines, 23, 35, 36-38, 143 
with benzine, 40-47 
Water, 139-143 

agents for the absorption of, 92, 93 
hard, softening of, 141, 142 
hardness of, test for, 141 
-proofing fabrics, formulas for, 207, 
2c8 

purification and testing of, 139-143 
purified, testing of, 142 
removal of, trom fabrics, 188, 189* 
stains, with, 68, 69 
-ring, prevention of, 93, 94 
stains, 98, 99, 282 

testing ot, as to softness of, 139, 140 
Wax stains, 87, 100 
Weralin, 11 
Wet cleaning, 137-187 






INDEX. 


351 




Wet cleaning and dry cleaning, close con¬ 
nection between,2 
division of, 143 
faults in the process of, 138 
utensils for, 143 

-washing ladies’ garments, 148-151 
men’s garments, 143-148 
White goods, cleaning of, 45, 46, 68 
Whortleberry stains, 101 
Wilson’s bleaching fluid, 79 
Wine stains, soap for, 82, 98, 101, 102, 
103, 129,134 
vinegar stains, 104 

Wool and silk fabrics, determination of 
vegetable fibers in, 
333 . 334 

dressing for, 205 
dyeing, 301-303 
stripping, 322 

articles, light colored, washing of, 
168, 169 

detection of cotton in, 337, 338 
dyeing, black, 308, 309 
blue, 311 
bright red, 310 
brown, 312 
claret red. 310 
crimson, 309, 310 
deep red, 310 
gray, 309 
green, 310, 311 
maroon, 310 
mauve, 312 


Wool, dyeing, orange, 310 
ponceau, 310 
• scarlet, 309 
violet, 311 

with acid dye-stuffs, 304 
basic dye-stuffs, 305 
mordant dye-stuffs, 305,306 
fabrics, dressing for, 202, 205 
white, washing of, 157-160 
fiber, analysis of, 329, 330, 332 
in silk, detection of, 315-337 
or silk articles, white, bleaching of, 
with peroxide, 160 

Woolen blankets, white, bleaching of, 
160-164 

fabrics, precautions in removing 
stains from, 66, 67 
spotting fluid for, 92 
water-proofing of, 207 
garments and fabrics, dyeing, 303- 
3 12 

preparation of, for dyeing, 306- 
308 

white, bleaching of, 160-161 
goods, mixture for cleaning, 95 
white, cleaning of, 45 
shawls, finishing of, 190, 191 
undergarments, washing of, 169 
Woolens, bleaching chamber for, 158 
stripping, 322. 323 
white, washing of, 169 
Wringers, 188 
Wringing, operation of, 188 




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Where not otherwise stated, all of the Books in this Catalogue are bound 

in muslin. 


AMATEUR MECHANICS’ WORKSHOP: 

A treatise containing plain and concise directions for the nv^hpula* 
tion of Wood and Metals, including Casting, Forging, Brazing, 
Soldering and Carpentry. By the author of the “ Lathe and Ita 
Uses.” Seventh edition. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . 

ANDES. —Animal Fats and Oils: 

Their Practical Production, Purification and Uses; their Properties^ 
Falsification and Examination. 62 illustrations. 8vo. . $4.00 

ANDES.—Vegetable Fats and Oils: 

Their* Practical Preparation, Purification and Employment; theif 
Properties, Adulteration and Examination. 94 illustrations. 8vow 

$4.00 

ARLOT.—A Complete Guide for Coach Painters : 

Translated from the French of M. Arlot, Coach Painter, for 
eleven .years Foreman of Painting to M. Eherler, Coach Maker, 
Paris. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. To which is 
added an Appendix, containing Information respecting the Materials 
and the Practice of Coach and Car Painting and Varnishing in the 
United States and Great Britain. i2mo. . . . $1.25 


(«) 





t 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


ARMENGAUD, AMOROUX, AND JOHNSON.—The Practi 
^al Draughtsman’s Book of Industrial Design, and Ma* 
chinist’s and Engineer's Drawing Companion : 

Farming a Complete Course of Mechanical Engineering and Archi 
tectural Drawing. From the French of M Armengaud the elder, 
Prof, of Design in the Conservatoire of Arts and Industry, Paris, and 
M. Armengaud the younger, and Amoroux, Civil Engineers. Re¬ 
written and arranged with additional matter and plates, selections from 
and examples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism 
of the day. By William Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E Illustrated 
by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty wood-cuts. A new edition, 4to., 
cloth..$5-00 

ARMSTRONG. — The Construction and Management of 
Steam Boilers : 

By R. Armstrong, C. E. With an Appendix by Robert Mallet, 
C. E., F. R. S. Seventh Edition. Illustrated. I vol. i2mo. 

ARROWSMITH.—The Paper-Hanger’s Companion: 

Comprising Tools, Pastes, Preparatory Work ; Selection and Hanging 
of Wall-Papers ; Distemper Painting and Cornice-Tinting ; Stencil 
Work; Replacing Sash-Cord and Broken Window Panes ; and 
Useful Wrinkles and Receipts, By James Arrowsmith. A New, 
Thoroughly Revised, and Much Enlarged Edition. Illustrated by 
25 engravings, 162 pages. (1905) .... $1.00 

ASHTON.—The Theory and Practice of the Art of Designing 
Fancy Cotton and Woollen Clothe from Sample : 

Giving full instructions for reducing drafts, as well as the methods of 
spooling and making out harness for cross drafts and finding any re¬ 
quired reed; with calculations and tables of yarn. By Frederic T. 
Ashton, Designer, West Pittsfield, Mass. With fifty-two illustrations. 
One vol. folio ........ $1.00 

ASKINSON.—Perfumes and their Preparation : 

A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing Complete 
Directions for Making Handkerchief Perfumes, Smelling-Salts. 
Sachets, Fumigating Pastils; Preparations for the Care of the Skin, 
the Mouth, the Hair; Cosmetics, Hair Dyes, and other.Toilet 
Articles. By G. W. Askinson. Translated from the German by IsiDOR 
Furst. Revised by Charles Rice. 32 Illustrations. 8vo. $3.00 

0RQNGNIART.—Coloring and Decoration of Ceramic Ware. 
8vc. .. 

BAIRD.—The American Cotton Spinner, anc Manager’s and 
Carder’s Guide: 

A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning; giving the Dimensions and 
Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calculations, etc.; with 
notices of recent Improvements: together with Rules and Examples 
lor making changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. 
Compiled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird, i2mo. 

#1.50 









HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


3 


BAKER.—Long-Span Railway Bridges : 

Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and 
Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type 
Systems of Construction ; with numerous Formulae and Tables. By 
B. Baker. 121110. ....... 

BRAN Nib—A Practical Treatise on Distillation and Rec¬ 
tification of Alcohol: 

Comprising Raw Materials ; Production of Malt, Preparation of 
Mashes and of Yeast; Fermentation ; Distillation and Rectification 
and Purification of Alcohol ; Preparation of Alcoholic Liquors, 
Liqueurs, Cordials, Bitters, Fruit Essences, Vinegar, etc.; Examina¬ 
tion of Materials for the Preparation of Malt as well as of the Malt 
itself; Examination of Mashes before and after Fermentation ; Alco- 
holometry, with Numerous Comprehensive 'fables ; and an Appendix 
on the Manufacture of Compressed Yeast and the Examination of 
Alcohol and Alcoholic Liquors for Fusel Oil and other Impurities. 
By William T. Brannt, Editor of “ The Techno-Chemical Receipt 
Book.” Second Edition. Entirely Rewritten. Illustrated by 105 
engravings. 460 pages, 8vo. (Dec., 1903) . . . $5.00 

BAKR. —A Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal: 
Including descriptions of various mechanical devices for the Eco¬ 
nomic Generation of Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether solid, 
liquid or gaseous 8vo. ....... 

B A RR. —A Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers: 
Including Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Materials, 
together with a description of Approved Safety Apparatus, Steam 
Pumps, Injectors and Economizers in actual use. By Wm. M. Barr. 
204 Illustrations. 8vo. ....... 

BAUERMAN.—A Treatise on the Metallurgy of Iron : 

Containing Outlines of the History of Iron Manufacture, Methods of 
Assay, and Analysis of Iron Ores, Processes of Manufacture of Iron 
and Steel, etc., etc.' By H. Bauerman, F. G. S., Associate of the 
Royal School of Mines. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings from Drawings by J. B. 
Jordan. i2mo, ........ 

BRANNT.—The Metallic Alloys : A Practical Guide 

For the Manufacture of all kinds of Alloys, Amalgams, and Solders, 
used by Metal-Workers ; together with their Chemical and Physical 
Properties and their Application in the Arts and the Industries ; with 
an Appendix on the Coloring of Alloys and the Recovery of Waste 
Metals. By William T. Brannt. 45 Engravings. Third, Re¬ 
vised, and Enlarged Edition. 570 pages. 8vo. . Net, $ 5 -°° 
BRANNT. — The Soap Maker’s Hand-Book of Materials, Processes 
and Receipts for Every Description of Soap. Illustrated. 8vo. 
BEANS.—A Treatise on Railway Curves and Location of 
Railroads : 

By E. W. Beans, C. E. Illustrated. i2mo. Tucks. . #1.00 


N 



4 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


3ELL.—Carpentry Made Easy: 

Or, The Science and Art of Framing on a New and lmpr-/e<j 
System. With Specific Instructions for Building Balloon Frames, Barn 
Frames, Mid Frames, Warehouses, Church Spires, etc. Comprising 
also a System of Bridge Building, with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and 
valuable Tables. Illustrated by forty-four plates, comprising ^earlv 
200 figures. By William E. Bell, Architect and Practical Builder. 

8vo. ". • $S-°° 

BEMROSE.—Fret-Cutting and Perforated Carving: 

With fifty-three practical illustrations. By W. Bemrose, Jr. I vol* 
quarto .......... $ 2 . 5<> 

BEMROSE.—Manual of Buhl-work and Marquetry: 

With Practical I ns'ructions for Learners, and ninety colored design^ 
By W. Bemrose, Jr. i vol. quarto .... $3.00 

BEMROSE.—Manual of Wood Carving: 

With Practical Illustrations for Learners of the Art, "nd Original and 
Selected Designs. By William Bemrose, Jr. vVith an Intro 
duction by Llewellyn Jewitt, F. S. A., etc. With 128 illustra¬ 
tions, 4to. ...... ^2.50 

BERSCH.—Cellulose, Cellulose Products, and Rubber Sub¬ 
stitutes : 

Comprising the Preparation of Cellulose, Parchment-Cellulose, 
Methods of Obtaining Bugar, Alcohol and Oxalic Acid front Word- 
Cellulose ; Production of Nitro-Cellulose and Cellulose Esters; 
Manufacture of Artificial Silk, Viscose, Celluloid, Rubber Substi¬ 
tutes, Oil-Rubber, and Faktis. By Dr. Joseph Bersch. Trans¬ 
lated by William T. Brannt. 41 illustrations. (1904.) $3.00 

BILLINGS.—Tobacco : 

Its History, Variety, Culture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Various 
Modes of Use. By E. R. Billings. Illustrated by nearly 200 
engravings. 8vo. . . . . . . . $3 00 

BIRD.—The American Practical Dyers’ Companion: 

Comprising a Description of the Principal Dye-Stuffs and Chemicals 
used in Dyeing, their Natures and Uses ; Mordants and How Made ; 
with the best American, English, French and German processes f<>r 
Bleaching and Dyeing Silk, Wool, Cotton, Linen, Flannel, Felt. 
Dress Goods, Mixed and Hosiery Yarns, Feathers, Grass, Felt, Fur, 
Wool, and Straw Hats, Jute Yarn, Vegetable Ivory, Mats, Skins, 
Furs, Leather, etc., etc. By Wood Aniline, and other Processes, 
together with Remarks on Finishing Agents, and instructions in the 
Finishing of Fabrics, Substitutes for Indigo, Water-Proofing of 
Materials, Tests and Purification of Water, Manufacture of Aniline 
and other New Dye Wares, Harmonizing Colors, etc., etc. ; embrac¬ 
ing in all over 800 Receipts for Colors and Shades, accompanied by 
170 Dyed Samples of Raw Materials and Fabrics. By F. J. Bird, 
Practical Dyer, Author of “The Dyers’ Hand-Book.” 8vo. $4.00 





3 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE 


BLINN.—A Practical Workshop Companion for Tin, Sheet. 
Iron, and Copper-plate Workers: 

Containing Rules Tor describing various kinds of Patterns used by 
Tin, Sheet-Iron and Copperplate Workers; Practical Geometry; 
Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids; Tables of the Weights of 
Metals, Lead-pipe, etc.; Tables of Areas and Circumference# 
of Circles; Japan, Varnishes, Lackers. Cements, Compositions, etc., 
etc. By Leroy J. Blinn, Master Mechanic. With One Hundred 
and Seventy Illustrations. i2mo. ..... $2.50 

BOOTH. —Marble Worker’s Manual: 

Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in general, theii 
Cutting, Working and Polishing; Veneering of Marble; Mosaics; 
Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, Stuccos, Cements, Receipts. 
Secrets, etc., etc. Translated from the French by M. L. Booth. 
With an Appendix concerning American Marbles. i2mo., cloth $1.50 

BRANNT.—A Practical Treatise on Animal and Vegetable 
Fats and Oils: 

Comprising both Fixed and Volatile Oils, their Physical and Chem¬ 
ical Properties and Uses, the Manner of Extracting and Refining 
them, and Practical Rules for Testing them; as well as the Manufac¬ 
ture of Artificial Butter and Lubricants, etc., with lists of Ameiican 
Patents relating to the Extraction, Rendering, Refining, Decomposing, 
and Bleaching of Fats and Oils. By William T. Brannt, Editor 
of the “ Techno-Chemical Receipt Book.” Second Edition, Revised 
and in a great part Rewritten. Illustrated by 302 Engravings. In 
Two Volumes. 1304 pp. 8vo. ..... $10.00 

BRANNT. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Soap 
and Candles : 

Based upon the most Recent Experiences in the Practice and Sciem < ; 
comprising the Chemistry, Raw Materials, Machine-y, and Utensns 
and Various Processes of Manufacture, including a great variety of 
formulas. Edited chiefly from the German of Dr C. Deite, A 
Engelhardt, Dr. C. Schaedler and others; with additions and list - 
of American Patents relating to these subjects. By Wm. T. Bran. n 1 
Illustrated by 163 engravings. 677 pages. 8vo. . . $12.50 

BRANNT—India Rubber, Gutta-Percha and Balata : 

Occurrence, Geographical Distribution, and Cultivation, Obtaining 
and Preparing the Raw Materials, Modes of Working and Utilizing 
them, Including Washing, Maceration, Mixing, Vulcanizing,Rubber 
and Gutta-Percha Compounds, Utilization of Waste, etc. By WILL¬ 
IAM T. Brannt. Illustrated. 121110. A new edition in preparation. 





6 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


BRANNT—WAHL.—The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book : 

Containing several thousand Receipts covering the latest, most im« 
portant, and most useful discoveries in Chemical Technology, and 
their Practical Application in the Arts and the Industries. Edited 
chiefly from the German of Drs. Winckler, Eisner, Heintze, Mier- 
zinski, Jacobsen, Roller and Heinzerling, with additions by Wm. T. 
Brannt and Wm. H. Wahl, Ph. D. Illustrated by 78 engravings. 
121110. 495 pages. ....... $2.00 

BROWN. — Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements : 
Embracing all those which are most important in Dynamics, Hy¬ 
draulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, Steam Engines, Mill and other 
Gearing, Presses, Horology, and Miscellaneous Machinery ; and in¬ 
cluding many movements never before published, and several of 
which have only recently come into use. By Henry T. Brown. 
l2mo. ......... $1.00 

BUCKMASTER.—The Elements of Mechanical Physics: 

By J. C. Buckmaster. Illustrated with numerous engravings. 
i2mo. .......... 

9 ULLOCK.—The American Cottage Builder : 

A Series of Designs, Plans and Specifications, from $200 to $20,000, 
for Homes for the People; together wdth Warming, Ventilation. 
Drainage, Painting and Landscape Gardening. By John Bullock, 
Architect and Editor of “ The Rudiments of Architecture and 
Building,” etc., etc. Illustrated by 75 engravings. 8vo. 
BULLOCK.—The Rudiments of Architecture and Building: 
For the use of Architects, Builders, Draughtsmen, Machinists, En¬ 
gineers and Mechanics. Edited by John Bullock, author of “ The 
American Cottage Builder.” Illustrated by 250 Engravings. 8vo. $2.50 
8URGH.—Practical Rules for the Proportions of Modem 
Engines and Boilers for Land and Marine Purposes. 

By N. P. Burgh, Engineer. i2mo. 

BYLES—Sophisms of Free Trade and Popular Political 
Econ my Examined. 

By a Barrister (Sir John Barnard Byles, Judge of Common 
Pleas). From the Ninth English Edition, as published by the 
Manchester Reciprocity Association. i2mo. . . . $1.25 

BOWMAN.— The Structure of the Wool Fibre in its Relation 
to the Use of Wool for Technical Purposes: 

Being the substance, with additions, of Five Lectures, delivered at 
the request of the Council, to the members of the Bradford Technical 
College, and the Society of Dyers and Colorists. By F. H. Bow¬ 
man, D. Sc., F. R. S. E., F. L. S. Illustrated by 32 engravings. 
8vo. . . . ....... 

BY RNE.—Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engi¬ 
neer : 

Comprising the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive 
Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing 
and Lackering, Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and 




0 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


Polishing, etc. By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 185 wood en¬ 
gravings. 8 vo.#4.00 

3YRNE.—Pocket-Book for Railroad and Civil Engineers: 

Containing New, Exact and Concise Methods for Laying out Railroad 
Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings; the Staking out of 
work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cuttings: Embankments; Earth¬ 
work, etc By Oliver Byrne. i8mo., full bound, pocket-book 

form . . . .. $1.50 

BYRNE.—The Practical Metal-Worker’s Assistant: 

Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry; the Arts of Working all Metal* 
and Alloys; Forging of Iron and Steel; Hardening and Tempering; 
Melting and Mixing; Casting and Founding ; Works in Sheet Metal; 
the Processes Dependent on the Ductility of the Metals; Soldering; 
and the most Improved Processes and Tools employed by Metal- 
Workers. With the Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to 
Manufacturing Processes; collected from Original Sources, and from 
the works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Piumier, Napier, 
Scoffern, Clay, Fairbairn and others. By Oliver Byrne. A new, 
revised and improved edition, to which is added an Appendix, con¬ 
taining The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. By John Percy, 
M. D., F. R. S. The Manufacture of Malleable Iron Castings, and 
Improvements in Bessemer Steel. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and 
Engineer. With over Six Hundred Engravings, Illustrating every 
Branch of the Subject. 8vo. ...... $ 3 - 5 ° 

BYRNE.—The Practical Model Calculator: 

For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, Naval 
Architect, Miner and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 8vo., nearly 
600 pages. ........ (Scarce.) 

CABINET MAKER’S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 

Comprising a Collection of Designs for various Styles of Furniture. 
Illustrated by Forty-eight Large and Beautifully Engraved Plates. 

Oblong, 8vo.$1.50 

CALLIMGHAM.—Sign Writing and Glass Embossing: 

A Complete Practical Illustrated Manual of the Art. By James 
Callingham. To which are added Numerous Alphabets and the 
Art of Letter Painting Made Easy. By James C. Badenoch. 258 
pages. i2mo. ........ $1 -5° 

CAM PIN.—A Practical Treatise on Mechanical Engineering: 
Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Work, 
shop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture of Steam* 
Engines, etc. With an Appendix on the Analysis of Iron and Iron 
Ores. By Francis Campin, C. E. To which are added, Observation* 
on the Construction of Steam Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces 
used for Smoke Prevention; with a Chapter on Explosions Bv R. 
Armstrong, C. E., and John Bourne, (scarce.) 


1 






8 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CG/S CATALOGUE. 


CAREY.—A Memoir of Henry C. Carey. 

By Dr. Wm. Elder. With a portrait. 8vo., cloth . . 7 3 

CAREY.—The Works of Henry C. Carey : 

Manual of Social Science. Condensed from Carey’s “ Principle.* 
of Social Science.” By Kate McKean, i vol. i2mo. . £2.00 

Miscellaneous Works. With a Portrait. 2 vols. 8 vo. $1000 
Past, Present and Future. 8vo. .... $2.50 
Principles of Social Science. 3 volumes, 8vo. . . $io.co 

The Slave-Trade, Domestic and Foreign; Why it Exists, and 
How it may be Extinguished (1853). 8vo. , . . $2.00 

The Unity of Law: As Exhibited in the Relations of Physical, 
Social, Mental and Moral Science (1872). 8vo. . . $2.50 

CLARK.—Tramways, their Construction and Working: 

Embracing a Comprehensive History of the System. With an ex¬ 
haustive analysis of the various modes of traction, including horse 
power, steam, heated water and compressed air; a description of the 
varieties of Rolling stock, and ample details of cost and working ex¬ 
penses. By D. Kinnear Clark. Illustrated by over 200 wood 
engravings, and thirteen folding plates. I vol. 8vo. . $5.00 

COLBURN. —The Locomotive Engine : 

Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimating its 
Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construction and Man 
agement. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. 121110. 

COLLENS.—The Eden of Labor; or, the Christian Utopia. 

By T. Wharton Collens, author of “ Humanics,” “The Hist< *, 
of Charity,” etc. i2mo. Paper cover, $1.00 ; Cloth . $1.2-, 

COOLEY.—A Complete Practical Treatise on Perfumery : 

Being a Hand-book of Perfumes, Cosmetics and other Toilet Article* 
With a Comprehensive Collection of Formulae. By Arnold 

Cooley. i2mo. $1.00 

COOPER.—A Treatise on the use of Belting for the Tram, 
mission of Power. 


With numerous illustrations of approved and actual methods of ar 
ranging Main Driving and Quarter Twist Belts, and of Belt Fasten 
ings. Examples and Rules in great number for exhibiting and cat 
culating the size and driving power of Belts. Plain, Particular and 
Practical Directions for the Treatment, Care and Management o r 
Belts. Descriptions of many varieties of Beltings, together with 
chapters on the Transmission of Power by Ropes; by Iron and 
Wood Frictional Gearing; on the Strength of Belting Leather; and 
on the Experimental Investigations of Morin, Briggs, and others. By 
John H. Cooper, M. E. Svo. ...... $3.50 

CRAIK.—The Practical American Millwright and M ; Uer. 

By David Craik, Millwright. Illustrated by numerous wood en¬ 
gravings and two folding plates. 8vo. (Scarce.) 


i 





HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


9 


CROSS.—The Cotton Yarn Spinner: 

Showing how the Preparation should be arranged for Different 
Counts of Yarns by a System more uniform than has hitherto been 
practiced; by having a Standard Schedule from which we make all 
our Changes. By Richard Cross. 122 pp. i2mo. . 75 

CRISTIANI.— A Technical Treatise on Soap and Candles: 

With a Glance at the Industry of Fats and Oils. By R. S. Ci-Vs- 
TIANI, Chemist. Author of “ Perfumery and Kindred Arts.” Illus¬ 
trated by 176 engravings. 581 pages, 8vo. $1$ oo 

• 

COURTNEY.—The Boiler Maker’s Assistant in Drawing, 
Templating, and Calculating Boiler Work and Tank 
Work, etc. 

Revised by D. K. Clark. 102 ills. Fifth edition. . 80 

COURTNEY.—The Boiler Maker’s Ready Reckoner: 

With Examples of Practical Geometry and Templating. Revised by 
D. K. Clark, C. E. 37 illustrations. Fifth edition. . $1.60 

DAVIDSON.—A Practical Manual of House Painting, Grain¬ 
ing, Marbling, and Sign-Writing: 

Containing full information on the processes of House Painting ic 
Oil and Distemper, the Formation of Letters and Practice of Sign- 
Writing, the Principles of Decorative Art, a Course of Elementary 
Drawing for House Painters, Writers, etc., and a Collection of Useful 
Receipts. With nine colored illustrations of Woods and Marbles, 
and numerous wood engravings. By Ellis A Davidson. i2mo. 

$2.00 

DAVIES.—A Treatise on Earthy and Other Minerals and 
Mining: 

By D. C. Davies, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. Illustrated by 
76 Engravings. i2mo. ....... $5 00 

DAVIES.—A Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining: 
By D. C. Davies, F. G. S , Mining Engineer, Examiner of Mines, 
Quarries and Collieries. Illustrated by 148 engravings of Geological 
Formations, Mining Operations and Machinery, drawn from the 
practice of all parts of the world. Fifth Edition, thoroughly Revised 
and much Enlarged by his son, E. Henry Davies. i2mo , 524 
pages ....... . . $5-°° 

DIETERICHS.—A Treatise on Friction, Lubrication, Oils 
and Fats : 

The Manufacture of Lubricating Oils, Paint Oils, and of Grease, and 
the Testing of Oils. By E. F. Dieterichs. Member of the Franklin 
Institute ; "'Member National Association of Stationary Engineers; 
Inventor of Dieterichs’Valve-Oleum Lubricating Oils. 121110. (1906.) 
A practical book by a practical man. . . . • $L 25 

DAVIS.—A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Brick, 
Tiles and Terra-Cotta : 

Including Stiff Clay, Dry Clay, Hand Made, Pressed or Front, and 
Roadway Paving Brick, Enamelled Brick, with Glazes and Colors, 
Fire Brick and Blocks. Silica Brick, Carbon Brick, Glass Pots, Re- 





IIENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUr. 


IO 


torts, Architectural Terra-Cotta, Sewer Pipe, Drain Tile, Glazed and 
Unglazed Rooting Tile, Art Tile, Mosaics, and Imitation of Intarsia 
or Inlaid Surfaces. Comprising every product of Clay employed in 
Architecture, Engineering, and the Blast Furnace. With a Detailed 
Description of the Different Clays employed, the Most Modern 
Machinery, Tools, and Kilns used, and the Processes for Handling, 
Disintegrating, Tempering, and Moulding the Clay into Shape, Dry¬ 
ing, Setting, and Burning. By Charles Thomas Davis. Third Edi¬ 
tion. Revised and in great part rewritten. Illustrated by 261 
engravings. 662 pages ....... 

DAVIS.—A Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation and Meth¬ 
ods for Preventing Corrosion and the Formation of Scale: 

- By Charles T. Davis. Illustrated by 65 engravings. 8vo. 

DAVIS.—The Manufacture of Paper: 

Being a Description of the various Processes for the Fabrication,, 
Coloring and Finishing of every kind of Paper, Including the Dif¬ 
ferent Raw Materials and the Methods for Determining their Values, 
the Tools, Machines and Practical Details connected with an intelli¬ 
gent and a profitable prosecution of the art, with special reference to 
the best American Practice. To which are added a HLtory of Pa¬ 
per, complete Lists of Paper-Making Materials, List of American 
Machines, Tools and Processes used in treating the Raw Materials, 
and in Making, Coloring and Finishing Paper. By Charles T. 
Davis. Illustrated by 156 engravings. 608 pages, 8vo. $6.00 
DAVIS.— The Manufacture of Leather: 

Being a Description of all the Processes for the Tanning and Tawing 
with Bark, Extracts, Chrome and all Modern Tannages in General 
Use, ami the Currying, Finishing and Dyeing of Every Kind of Leather; 
Including the Various Raw Materials, the Tools, Machines, and all 
Details of Importance Connected with an Intelligent and Profitable 
Prosecution of the Art, with Special Reference to the Best American 
Practice, 'l'o which are added Lusts of American Patents (1884—1897) 
for Materials, Processes, Pools and Machines for Tanning, Currying, 
etc. By Charles Thomas Davis. Second Edition, Revised, and 
in great part Rewritten. Illustrated by 147 engravings and 14 Sam¬ 
ples of Quebracho Tanned and Aniline Dyed Leathers. 8vo, cloth, 

712 pages. Price. 

DAWIDOWSKY—BRANNT.—A Practical Treatise on the 
Raw Materials and Fabrication of Glue, Gelatine, Gelatine 
Veneers and Foils, Isinglass, Cements, Pastes, Mucilages, 
etc.: 

Based upon Actual Experience. By F. DAWIDOWSKY, Technical 
Chemist. Translated from the German, with extensive addition-., 
including a description of the most Recent American Processe-, by 
William T. Brannt. 2d revised edition, 350 pages. (1905.) 

Price.. $3.00 

DE GRAFF.—The Geometrical Stair-Builders’ Guide:' 

Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all its 
necessarv Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by twenty-two Stee 
Engraving^; together with the use of the most approved prmcip-'s 
■•i Practical Geometry By Simon De Graff, Architect (oc^ice. * 




HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


II 


PE KONINCK—DIETZ.—A Practical Manual of Chemical 
Analysis and Assaying: 

As applied to the Manufacture of Iron from its Ores, and to Cast Iron, 
Wrought Iron, and Steel, as found in Commerce. By L. L. Dr 
Koninck, Dr. Sc., and E. Dietz, Engineer. Edited with Notes, by 
Robert Mallet, F. R. S., F. S. G., M. I. C. E., etc. America® 
Edition, Edited with Notes and an Appendix on Iron Ores, by A. A, 
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. i2mo. , . . $1.00 

DUNCAN.— Practical Surveyor’s Guide: 

Containing the necessary information to make any person of com* 
mon capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of a teacher. 
By Andrew Duncan. Revised. 72 engravings, 214 pp. i2mo. $1.50 
DUPLAIS.—A Treatise on the Manufacture and Distillation 
of Alcoholic Liquors: 

Comprising Accurate and Complete Details in Regard to Alcohol 
from Wine, Molasses, Beets, Grain, Rice, Potatoes, Sorghum, Aspho 
del, Fruits, etc.; with the DCtillat'on and Rectification of Brandy 
Whiskey, Rum, Gin, Swiss Absinthe, etc., the Preparation of Aro¬ 
matic Waters, Volatile Oils or Essences, Sugars, Syrups, Aromatic 
Tinctures, Liqueurs, Cordial Wines, Effervescing Wines, etc., the 
Ageing of Brandy and the improvement of Spirits, with Copious 
Directions and Tables for Testing and Reducing Spirituous Liquors, 
etc., etc. Translated and Edited from the French of MM. DUPLAIS, 
By M. McKennie, M. D. Illustrated 743 pp. 8vo. #15.00 
OYER AND COLOR-MAKER’S COMPANION: 

Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Colors, on 
the most approved principles, for all the various styles and fabrics now 
in evistence ; with the Scouring Process, and plain Directions for 
Preparing, Washing-off. and Finishing the Goods. 121110. 
EIDHERR. —The Techno-Chemical Guide to Distillation: 

A Hand-Book for the Manufacture of Alcohol and Alcoho'ic Liquors, 
including the Preparation of Malt and Compressed Yeast. Edited 
from the < ierinan of Ed. Eidherr. 

EDWARDS.—A Catechism of the Marine Steam-Engine, 

For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics. A Practical 
Work for Practical Men. By Emory Edwards, Mechanical Engi- 
neer. Illustrated by sixty-three Engravings, including examples of 
the most modern Engines. Third edition, thoroughly revised, with 
much additional matter. 12 mo. 414 pages . . ^1.50 

□WARDS.—Modern American Locomotive Engines, 

Their Design, Construction and Management. By Em 3 RV EDWARDS 
Illustrated i2mo. . . . . . . • • # l - 5 ° 

EDWARDS.—The American Steam Engineer: 

Theoretical and Practical, with examples of the lateA and most ap¬ 
proved American practice in the design and construction of Steam 
Engines and Boilers. For the use of engineers, machinists, boiler¬ 
makers, and engineering students. By Emory Edwards, bully 
.'ilustrated, 419 pages. i2mo. - . • . # 1 * 5 ° 


1 







12 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


EDWARDS.—Modern American Marine Engines, Boilers, anf 
Screw Propellers, 

Their Design and Construction. Showing the Present Practice ot 
the most Eminent Engineers and Marine Engine Buildeis in the 
United States. Illustrated by 30 large and elaborate plates. 4to. $2.00 
EDWARDS.—The Practical Steam Engineer’s Guide 

In the Design, Construction, and Management of American Stationary, 
Portable, and Steam Fire-Engines, Steam Pumps, Boilers, injector^ 
Governors, Indicators, Pistons and Rings, Safety Valves and Steam 
Gauges. For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Steam Users. B) 
Emory Edwards. Illustrated by 119 engravings. A20 pages. 

i2mo.#2.00 

EISSLER.—The Metallurgy of Silver : 

A Practical Treatise on the Amalgamation, Roasting, and Lixivintion 
of Silver Ores, including the Assaying, Melting, and Refining of 
Silver Bullion. By M. Eissler. 124 Illustrations. 336 pp. 
i2mo. .......... #4-25 

ELDER.—Conversations on the Principal Subjects of Political 
Economy. 

By Dr. William Elder. 8vo. ... . $1.50 

ELDER.—Questions of the Day, 

Economic and Social. By Dr. William Elder. Svo, . $3.00 

ERNI AND BROWN.—Mineralogy Simplified. 

Easy Methods of Identifying Minerals, including Ores, by Means of 
the Blow-pipe, by Flame Reactions, by Humid Chemical Analysis, 
and by Physical Tests. By Henri Erni, A. M., M. D. Fourth Edi¬ 
tion, revised, re-arranged and with the addition of entirely new matter, 
including Tables for jthe Determination of Minerals by Chemical and 
Pyrognostic Characters, and by Physical Characters By Amos P. 
Brown, E. M., Ph. D. 464 pp.. illustrated by 123 engravings, pocket- 
book form, full flexible morocco, gilt edges . . . #2.50 

FAIRBAIRN. The Principles of Mechanism and Machinery 
of Transmission: 

Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
Strength and Proportion of Shafts, Coupling of Shafts, and Engag¬ 
ing and Disengaging Gear. By Sir William Fairbairn, Bart. 
C. E. Beautifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. .In one 
volume, i2mo. ........ $2.00 

FLEMING.—Narrow Gauge Railways in America : 

A Sketch of their Rise, Progress, and Success. Valuable Statistics 
as to Grades, Curves, Weight of Rail, Locomotives, Cars, etc. By 
Howard Fleming. Illustrated, 8vo. .... $i.co 

FORSYTH.— Book of Designs for Headstones, Mural, and 
other Monuments : 

Containing 78 Designs. By James Forsyth, With an Introduction 
by Charles Boutell, M. A. 4to., cloth . . . $3,00 

FRIEDBERG. Utilization of Bones by Chemical Means; 
especially the Modes of Obtaining Fat, Glue, Manures! 
Phosphorus and Phosphates. 

Illustrated. 8vo. (In preparation.) 






HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


*3 


FRANKEL—HUTTER.—A Practical Treatise on the Mann* 
facture of Starch, Glucose, Starch-Sugar, and Dextrine: 

Based on the German of Ladislaus Von Wagner, Professor in the 
Royal Technical High School, Buda-Pest, Hungary, and other 
authorities. By Julius Frankel, Graduate of the Polytechnic 
School of Hanover. Edited by Robert Hutter, Chemist, Practical 
Manufacturer of Starch-Sugar. Illustrated by 58 engravings, cover¬ 
ing every branch of the subject, including examples of the most 
Recent and Best American Machinery. 8vo., 344 pp. 

GARDNER.—The Painter s Encyclopaedia: 

Containing Definitions of all Important Words in the Art of Plain 
and Artistic Painting, with Details of Practice in Coach, Carriage, 
Railway Car, House, Sign, and Ornamental Painting, including 
Graining, Marbling, Staining, Varnishing, Polishing, Lettering, 
Stenciling, Gilding, Bronzing, etc. By Franklin B. Gardner. 
158 Illustrations. i2mo. 427 pp.$ 2 .oc 

GARDNER.—Everybody’s Paint Book: 

A Complete Guide to tiie Art of Outdoor and Indooi Painting. 38 
illustrations. i2mo, 183 pp. . ... $1.00 

GEE.—The Jeweller’s Assistant in the Art of Working in 
Gold: 

A Practical Treatise foi Masters and Workmen. l2mo. . $3.00 

GEE.—The Goldsmith’s Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Gold, 
including the Art of Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Coloring, Col 
lecting, and Refining; the Processes of Manipulation, Recovery of 
Waste; Chemical and Physical Properties of Gold; with a New 
System of Mixing its Alloys; Solders, Enamels, and other Useful 
Rules and Recipes. By George E. Gee. 121110. c . $1.25 

GEE.—The Silversmith’s Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Silver, 
including the different modes of Refining and Melting the Metal; its 
Solders; the Preparation of Imitation Alloys; Methods of Manipula¬ 
tion ; Prevention of Waste ; Instructions for Improving and Finishing 
the Surface of the Work ; together with other Useful Information and 
Memoranda. By George E. Gee. Illustrated. i2tno. Si.25 

GOTHIC ALBUM FOR CABINET-MAKERS: 

Designs for Gothic Furniture. Twenty-three plates. Oblong $ 1. 00 

GRANT.—A Handbook on the Teeth of Gears : 

Their Curves, Properties, and Practical Construction. By George 
B. Grant. Illustrated. Third Edition, enlarged. 8vo. jflioo 
GREENWOOD.—Iron and Steel: 

Vol. I. Iron : Its Sources, Properties, and Manufacture. By Will¬ 
iam Henry Greenwood. Revised and Re-written by A. Hum¬ 
boldt Sexton. 255pp. Illustrated i2mo. . . . $ 1.00 

Vol. II. Steel • Its Varieties, Properties, and Manufacture By 
William Henry Greenwood. Revised and Re-written by A. 
Humboldt Sexton. 254pp. Illustrated. i2mo. . . Si.00 






HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE: 


H 


GREGORY.—Mathematics for Practical Men: 

Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and 
Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates $ 3 -°° 
GRISWOLD.—Railroad Engineer’s Pocket Companion for thv 
Field: 

Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and Angles 
Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary Tables for En 
gineers; also the Art of Levelling from Preliminary Survey to the 
Construction of Railroads, intended Expressly for the Young En¬ 
gineer, together with Numerous Valuable Rules and Examples. By 

W. Griswold. i2mo., tucks.#i- 5 ° 

GRUNER.—Studies of Blast Furnace Phenomena: 

By M. L. Gruner, President of the General Council of Mines oi 
France, and lately Professor of Metallurgy at the Ecole des Mines. 
Translated, with the author’s sanction, with an Appendix, by L. D. 
B. Gordon, F. R. S. E., F. G. S. 8 vo. . . . $2.50 

Hand-Book of Useful Tables for the Lumberman, Farmer and 
Mechanic: 

Containing Accurate Tables of Logs Reduced to Inch Board Meas. 
ure, Plank, Scantling and Timber Measure; Wages and Rent, by 
Week or Month; Capacity of Granaries, Bins and Cisterns; Land 
Measure, Interest Tables, with Directions for Finding the Interest on 
any sum at 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 per cent., and many other Useful Tables. 

32 mo., boards. I06 pages. .2$ 

HASERICK.—The Secrets of the Art of Dyeing Wool, Cotton< 
and Linen, 

Including Bleaching and Coloring Wool and Cotton Hosiery and 
Random Yarns. A Treatise based on Economy and Practice. By 
E. C. Haserick. Illustrated by 323 Dyed Patterns of the Yarnt 
or fabrics. 8vo. ........ #4-5° 

HATS AND FELTING: 

A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical Hatter 
Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, etc. 8vo. . . $1.00 

HERMANN.—Painting on Glass and Porcelain, and Enamel 
Painting: 

A Complete Introduction to the Preparation of all the Colors and 
Fluxes Used for Painting on Glass, Porcelain, Enamel, Faience and 
Stoneware, the Color Pastes and Colored Glasses, together with a 
Minute Description ot the Firing ot Colors and Enamels, on thf 
Basis of Personal Practical Experience of the Art up to Date. l8 
illustrations. Second edition. ..... $4.00 

HAUPT.—Street Railway Motors: 

With Descriptions and Cost of Plants and Operation of the Variou* 
Systems now in Use. .... #1.50 





HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 15 

HAUPT.—A Manual of Engineering Specifications and Con¬ 
tracts. 

By Lewis M. Haupt, C. E. Illustrated with numerous maps. 
328pp. 8vo.$3 00 

HAUPT.—The Topographer, His Instruments and Methods. 
By Lewis M. Haupt, A. M., C. E. Illustrated with numerous 
plates, maps and engravings. 247 pp. 8vo. . . . $3.00 

HUGHES.—American Miller and Millwright’s Assistant: 

By William Carter Hughes. 121110.$1.50 

HULME.—Worked Examination Questions in Plane Geomet ¬ 
rical Drawing : 

For the Use of Candidates for the Royal Military Academy, Wool- 
wich; the Royal Military College, Sandhurst; the Indian Civil En¬ 
gineering College, Cooper’s Hill ; Indian Public Works and Tele¬ 
graph Departments; Royal Marine Light Infantry; the Oxford and 
Cambridge Local Examinations, etc. By F. Edward Hulme, F. L. 
S., F. S. A., Art-Master Marlborough College. Illustrated by 300 

examples. Small quarto.. $1.00 

JERVIS.—Railroad Property: 

A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways; 
designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Managers, Offt 
cers, and Agents. By Tohn B. Jervis, late Civil Engineer of the 
Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, etc. i2mo., cloth $i.t;o 
•KEENE.—A Hand-Book of Practical Gauging: 

For the Use of Beginners, to which is added a Chapter on Distilla 
tion, describing the process in operation at the Custom-House for 
ascertaining the Strength of Wines. By James B. Keene, of H. M. 
Customs. 8vo. ........ 

KELLEY.—Speeches, Addresses, and Letters on Industrial and 
Financial Questions: , 

By Hon. William D. Kelley, M. C. 544 pages, 8vo. . $2.00 

KOENIG.—Chemistry Simplified: 

A Course of Lectures on the Non-Metals Based upon the Natural 
Evolution of Chemistry. Designed Primarily for Engineers. By 
George Augustus Koenig, Ph.D., A. M., E. M., Professor of 
Chemistry, Michigan College of Mines, Houghton. Illustrated by 
103 Original Drawings. 449 pp. i2mo., (1906). . . #2.25 

KEMLO.—Watch-Repairer’s Hand-Book: 

Being a Complete Guide to the Young Beginner, in Taking Apart, 
Putting Together, and Thoroughly Cleaning the English Lever and 
other Foreign Watches, and all American Watches. By F. Kemlo, 
Practical Watchmaker. With Illustrations. i2mo. $1.25 





HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


*6 


KENTISH.—A Treatise on a Box of Instruments, 

And the Slide Rine; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Loga 
rithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measuring of Tim 
ber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. By Thoma* 
Kentish. In one volume. i2mo. .... $i.oc 
KIRK.—A Practical Treatise on Foundry Irons. 

Comprising Pig Iron, and Fracture Grading of Pig and Scrap Irons; 
Scrap Irons; Mixing Irons; Elements and Metalloids; Grading Iron 
by Analysis; Chemical Standards for Iron Castings; Testing Cast 
Iron ; Semi Steel; Malleable Iron ; Etc., Etc. By Edward Kirk, 
Practical Moulder and Melter, Consulting Expert in Melting. Illus 
trated. 294 pages. 8vo. 1911. #3.00 

KICK.—Flour Manufacture. 

A Treatise on Milling Science and Practice. By Frederick Kick 
Imperial Regierungsrath, Professor of Mechanical Technology in thi 
imperial German Polytechnic Institute, Prague. Translated from 
the second enlarged and revised edition with supplement by H. H 
P. Powles, Assoc. Memb. Institution of Civil Engineers. Illustrated 
with 28 Plates, and 167 Wood-cuts. 367 pages. 8vo. . #10.00 

KINGZETT.—The History, Products, and Processes of the 
Alkali Trade ; 

including the most Recent Improvements. By Charles Thoma* 
Ktngzett. Consulting Chemist. With 23 illustrations. 8vo. #2.00 
KIRK. —The Cupola Furnace: 

A Practical Treatise on the Construction and Management of Foundry 
Cupolas. By Edward Kirk, Practical Moulder and Melter, Con¬ 
sulting Expert in Melting. Illustrated by 106 engravings. Third 
Edition, revised and enlarged. 482 pages. 8vo. 1910. #3 50 

3 LANDRIN.—A Treatise on Steel: 

Comprising its Theory, Metallurgy. Properties, Practical Working, 
and Use. By M. H. C. Landrin, Jr. From the French, by A. A. 
Fesquet. i2mo.#1.00 

LANGBEIN.—A Ccrr.plete Treatise on the Electro-DeposL 
tion of Metals : 

Comprising Electro-Plating and Galvanoplastic Operations, the De¬ 
position of Metals by the Contact and Immersion Processes, the Color¬ 
ing of Metals, the Methods of Grinding and Polishing, as well as 
Description of the Voltaic Cells, Dynamo-Electric Machines, Ther- 
mopyles, and of the Materials and Processes Used in Every Depart¬ 
ment of the Art. Translated from the Fifth German Edition ot 
Dr. George Langbein, Proprietor of a Manufactory for Chemical 
Products, Machines, Apparatus and Utensils for Electro-Platers, and 
of an Electro-Plating Establishment in Leipzig. With Additions by 
William T. Brannt, Editoi of ‘'The Techno-Chemical Receipt 
Book.” Sixth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated by 163 

Engravings, 8vo , 725 pages (1909).#4 00 

LEHNER.—The Manufacture of Ink: 

Comprising the Raw Materials, and the Preparation of Wrting, 
Copying and Hektograph Inks, Safety Inks, ink Extracts and Pow¬ 
ders, etc. Translated from the German of Sigmund Lehner, with 
additions by William l. Brannt. Illustrated. 12010. #2.00- 







HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 17 


LARKIN.—The Practical Brass and Iron Founder’s Guide: 

A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals and 
their Alloys, etc.; to which are added Recent Improvements in the 
Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Process, etc., etc. Bj 
James Larkin, late Conductor of the Brass Foundry Department in 
Reany, Neafie & Co.’s Penn Works, Philadelphia. New edition, 
revised, with extensive additions. 414 pages. 121110. . $2.50 

LEROUX.— A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of 
Worsteds and Carded Yarns : 

Comprising Practical Mechanics, with Rules and Calculations applied 
to Spinning; Sorting, Cleaning, and Scouring Wools; the English 
and French Methods of Combing, Drawing, and Spinning Worsteds, 
and Manufacturing Carded Yarns. Translated from the French of 
Charles Leroux, Mechanical Engineer and Superintendent of a 
Spinning-Mill, by Horatio Paine, M. D., and A. A, Fesquet, 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by twelve large Plates. To which 
is added an Appendix, containing Extracts from the Reports of the 
International Jury, and of the Artisans selected by the Committed 
appointed by the Council of the Society of Arts, London, on Woolea 
and Worsted Machinery and Fabrics, as exhibited in the Paris Uni* 
versal Exposition, 1867. 8vo. ..... $ 3 -°° 

lEFFEL.—T he Construction of Mill-Dams : 

Comprising also the Building of Race and Reservoir Embankment# 
and Head-Gates, the Measurement of Streams, Gauging of Water 
Supply, etc. By James Leffel & Co. Illustrated by 58 engravings. 
8vo. ......... (Scarce.) 

LESLIE.—Complete Cookery: 

Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss Leslie 
Sixtieth thomsand. Thoroughly revised, with the addition of New 
Receipts. i2mo. .... • #1.00 

LE VAN—The Steam Engine and the Indicator: 

Their Origin and Progressive Development; including the Most 
Recent Examples of Steam and Gas Motors, together with the Indi¬ 
cator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Application. By William 
Barnet Le Van. Illustrated by 205 Engravings, chiefly of Indi¬ 
cator-Cards. 469 pp. 8vo.$2.00 

LIEBER.—Assayer’s Guide ; 

Or Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for the 
Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the Ore3 of all 
tjy principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins asd Alloys, and of 
Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. Revised. 283 pp. i2mo. $1.50 

vockwood’s Dictionary of Terms : . . , 

Used in the Practice of Mechanical Engineering, embracing those 
Current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop, Foundry, Fitting, Turn¬ 
ing Smith’s and Boiler Shops, etc., etc., comprising upwards of Six 
Thousand Definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker, author 
_jf “ Pattern. Making.” 4*7 PP* I2mo. • • • $ 3'75 




HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 


18 


LUKIN.—The Lathe and Its Uses: 

Or Instruction in the Art of Turning Wood and Metal. Including 
a Description of the Most Modern Appliances for the Ornamentation 
of Plane and Curved Surfaces, an Entirely Novvl Form of Lathe 
for Eccentric and Rose-Engine Turning; A Lathe and Planing 
Machine Combined; and Other Valuable Matter Relating to the 
Art. Illustrated by 462 engravings. Seventh edition. 315 pages. 

Svo.# 4-25 

MAIN and BROWN.—Questions on Subjects Connected with 
the Marine Steam-Engine; 

And Examination Papers; with Hints for their Solution. By 
Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Royal Naval College, 
and Thomas Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. 121110., cloth . 

MAIN and BROWN.—The Indicator and Dynamometer: 

With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By Thomas 
J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass’t S. Professor Royal Naval College, 
Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer 
R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. Svo. . 

MAIN and BROWN.—The Marine Steam-Engine. 

By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass’t S. Mathematical Professor at the 
Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. 
Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval 
College. With numerous illustrations. 8vo. 

MAKINS.—A Manual of Metallurgy: 

By George Hogarth Makins. ioo engravings. Second edition 
rewritten and much enlarged. i2mo„ 592 pages 

MARTIN.—Screw-Cutting Tables, for the Use of Mechanical 

Engineers : 

Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the Threads 
of Screws of any Required Pitch; with a Table for Making the Uni¬ 
versal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. Martin, Engineer. 

8vo... .50 

MICHELL.—Mine Drainage: 

Being a Complete and Practical Treatise on Direct-Acting Under 
rround Steam Pumping Machinery. With a Description of a large 
number of the best known Engines, their General Utility and the 
Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode of their Application, and 
their Merits compared with other Pumping Machinery. By STEPHEN 
Michf.LL. Illustrated by 247 engravings. 8vo., 369 pages. £1250 
MOLESWORTH.—Pocket-Book of Useful Formulae and 
Memoranda for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. 

By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of Civil 
Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Railway. Full- 
bound in Pocket-book form . #1.00 







HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE, *9 


IflOQRE.—The Universal Assistant and the Complete Ml 
chanic; 

Containing over one million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts. 
Processes, Trades Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, Etc.* 
in every occupation, from the Household to the Manufactory. B} 
R. Moore. Illustrated by 500 Engravings. i2mo. . . $2.50 

AuQRRIS.—Easy Rules for the Measurement of Earthworks: 
By means of the Prismoidal Formula. Illustrated with Numerous 
Wood-Cuts, Problems, and Examples, and concluded by an Exten¬ 
sive Table for finding the Solidity in cubic yards from Mean Areas, 
The whole being adapted for convenient use by Engineers, Surveyors 
Contractors, and others needing Correct Measurement if Earthwork 
By Elwood Morris, C. E. 8 vo. ... 
iMAUCHLINE.—The Mine Foreman’s Hand-Book 

t )f Practical and Theoretical Information on the Opening, Venti¬ 
lating, and Working of Collieries. Questions and Answers on Prac¬ 
tical and Theoretical Coal Mining. Designed to Assist Students and 
Others in Passing Examinations for Mine Foremanships. By 
Robert Mauchline. 3d Edition. Thoroughly Revised and En¬ 
larged by F. Ernest Brackett. 134 engravings, 8vo. 378 pages. 

( I 9 ° 5 ).# 3-75 

NAPIER.—A System of Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 

By James Napier, F. C. S. A New and Thoroughly Revised EdI 
tion. Completely brought up to the present state of the Science 
including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors, by A. A. FesqueT. 
Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and CalicG 
Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. Ulus 

trated. 8vo. 422 pages ..$2.00 

NEVILLE. —Hydraulic Tables, Coefficients, and Formulae, fo* 
finding the Discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches 
Weirs, Pipes, and Rivers: 

Third Edition, with Additions, consisting ol New Formulae for the 
>ischarge from Tidal and Flood Sluices and Siphons; general infor 
nation on Rainfall, Catchment-Basins, ’damage, Sewerage, Wa;e» 
Supply for Towns and Mill Power By .r.j'HN Neville. C. E. M R 
I. A.; Fellow of the Royal Geological Uf/.'hfy of Ireland. Thiel 
I2mo. ......... Scarce 

IEWBERY. — Gleanings from Ornamiiital Art of every 
style: 

Drawn from Examples in the British, South Kensington, Indian, 
Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 1851 and 
1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In a series of 100 
exquisitely drawn Plates, containing many hundred examples. By 
Robert Newbery. 410. ...... (Scales4 

NICHOLLS. —The Theoretical and Practical Boiler»Maker anrf 
Engineer’s Reference Book: 

Containing a variety of Useful Information for Employers of Labor. 
Foremen a’\d Working Boiler-Makers Iron, Copper, and Tinsmiths 






HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE, 


20 


Draughtsmen, Engineers, the General Steam-using Public, and for thi 
Use of Science Schools and Classes. By Samuel Nicholls. Illu» 
trated by sixteen plates, i2mo. ..... $2.5(1 

NICHOLSON. —A Manual of the Art of Bookbinding : 
Containing full instructions in the different Branches of Forwarding, 
Gliding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling Book-edges and 
Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illustrated. i2mo., cloth $2.25 
NICOLLS. —The Railway Builder: 

A Hand-Book for Estimating the Probable Cost of American Rail¬ 
way Construction and Equipment. By William J. Nicolls, Civil 
Engineer. Illustrated, full bound, pocket-book form . Scarce 

NORMANDY.—The Commercial Handbook of Chemical An* 
alysis: 

Or Practical Instructions for the Determination of the Intrinsic o» 
Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, in Trades, 
and in the Arts. By A. Normandy. New Edition, Enlarged, and 
to a great extent rewritten. By Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S., 
thick i2mo. ......... Scarce 

NORRIS.—A Handbook for Locomotive Engineers and Ma 
chinists: 

Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing Loco 
motives; Manner of Setting Valves; Tables cf Squares, Cubes, Areas, 
etc., etc. By Septimus Norris, M. E. New edition. Illustrated, 

I2mo. 

NYSTRGM.—A New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics: 
Establishing Strict Precision in the Meaning of Dynamical Terms 1 
accompanied with an Appendix on Duodenal Arithmetic and Me 
trology. By John W. Nystrom, C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. 
NYSTROM.—On Technological Education and the Construc¬ 
tion of Ships and Screw Propellers: 

For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John V/. Nystrom, Int, 
Acting Chief Engineer, U. S. N. Second edition, revised, with add* 
tional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. i2mo. . $1.00 

O’NEILL.—A Dictionary of Dyeing and Calico Printing: , 

Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes 1 
use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics ; with Practfe 
Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O’Neill, Anal,' 
tical Chemist. To which is added an Essay on Coal Tar Colors anu 
their application to Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet. 
Chemist and Engineer. With an appendix on Dyeing and Calico 
Printing, as shown at the Unhers.d Exposition, Paris, 1867 8vo., 

491 pages . . . $2.00 

ORTON. —Underground Treasures. 

How and Where to Find Them. A Key for the Ready Determination 
of al) the Useful Minerals within the United States. By James 
* wuN, A.M., Late Professor of Natural H : story in Vassar College, 
N. Y.; author of the “Andes and the Amazon,” etc. A New Edi¬ 
tion, with An Appendix on Ore Deposits and Testing Minerals Goon 
Illustrated.. 






HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


21 


OSBORN.—The Prospector’s Field Book and Guide. 

In the Search for and the Easy Determination of Ores and Other 
Useful Minerals. By Prof. H. S. Osborn, LL. D. Illustrated by 66 
Engravings. Eighth Edition. Revised and Enlarged. 401 pages 
l2mo. 1910. . $ l '5° 

OSBORN—A Practical Manual of Minerals, Mines and Min 
ing: 

Comprising the Physical Properties, Geologic Positions, Local Occur¬ 
rence and Associations of the Useful Minerals; their Methods of 
Chemical Analysis and Assay ; together with Various Systems of Ex¬ 
cavating and 1 imbering, Brick and Masonry Work, during Driving, 
Lining, Bracing and other Operations, etc. By Prof. H. S. Osborn, 
LL. D., Author of “ The Prospector’s Pdeld-Book and Guide.” 171 
engravings. Second Edition, revised. 8vo. . . . $4*50 

OVERMAN. —Thu Manufacture of Steel: 

Containing the Practice and Principles of Working and Making Steel. 
A Handbook for Blacksmiths and Worker* in Steel and Iron, Wagon 
Makers, Die Sinkers, Cutlers, and Manufacturers of Files and Hard¬ 
ware, of Steel and Iron, and for Men of Science and Art. By 
Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer, Author of the “ Manu¬ 
facture of Lon,” etc. A new, enlarged, and revised Edition. By 
A. A. Fesqlet, Chemist and Engineer. i2mo. . . $1.50 

OVERMAN. —The Moulder’s and Founder’s Pocket Guide : 

A Treatise or.. Mouldingand Founding in Green-sand, Dry sand, Loam, 
and Cement; the Moulding of Machine Frames, Mill-gear, Hollow 
ware, Ornaments, Trinkets, Bells, and Statues; Description of Moulds 
for Iron, Bronze, Brass, and other Metals; Plaster of Paris, Sulphur 
Wax, etc.; the Construction of Melting Furnaces, the Melting and 
Founding of Metals; the Composition of Alloys and their Nature, 
etc., etc. By Frederick Overman, M. E. A new Edition, tc 
which is added a Supplement on Statuary and Ornamental Moulding, 
Ordnance, Malleable Iron Castings, etc. By A. A. Fesquet, Chem¬ 
ist and Engineer. Illustrated by 44 engravings. i2mo. . $2.06 

PAINTER, GILDER. AND VARNISHER’S COMPANION. 
Comprising the Manufacture and Test of Pigments, the Arts of Paint¬ 
ing, Graining, Marbling, Staining, Sign writing, Varnishing, Glass- 
staining, and Gilding on Glass; together with Coach Painting and 
Varnishing, and the Principles of the Harmony and Contrast of 
Colors. Twenty-seventh Edition. Revised, Enlarged, and in great 
part Rewritten. By William T. Brannt, Editor of “Varnishes, 
Lacquers, Printing Inks and Sealing Waxes.” Illustrated. 395 pp. 
I2mo. .......... $150 

PALLETT.—The Miller’s, Millwright’s,and Engineer’s Guide. 
By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. i2mo. . . . $2.00 





22 


riENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


PERCY,—The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. 

By John Percy, M. D , F. R. S. Paper. ... 25 cts. 

PERKINS.—Gas and Ventilation: 

Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. Illustrated. I2mo. $1-25 

PERKINS AND STOWE.—A New Guide to the Sheet-iron 
and Boiler Plate Roller : 

Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and Pile* 
to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and the Sizes of 
Bars to produce Sheet-iron; file Thickness of the Bar Gauge, 
in decimals; the Weight per foe :, and the Thickness on the Bar or 
Wire Gauge of the fractions’ parts of an inch; the Weight per. 
sheet, and the Thickness r a the Wire Gauge of Sheet-iron of various 
dimensions to weigh II& lbs. per bundle; and the conversion of 
Short Weight into Long Weight, and Long Weight into Short. 

$i* 5 ° 

POSSELT.—Recent Improvements in Textile Machinery Re¬ 
lating to Weaving: 

Giving the Most Modern Points on the Construction of all Kinds 
of Looms, Warpers, Beamers, Slashers, Winders, Spoolers, Reeds* 
Temples, Shuttles, Bobbins, Heddles, Meddle Frames, Pickers, 
Jacquards, Card Stampers; Etc., Etc. By E. A. Posselt. 4to. 
Part I., 6co ills.; Part II., 60c ills. Each part . . . $3.00 

Part III., 615 ills. ........ $7.50 

POSSELT.—Technology of Textile Design: 

The Most Complete Treatise on the Construction and Application 
of Weaves for all Textile Fabrics and the Analysis of Cloth. By E. 
A. Posselt. 1,500 illustrations. 4to. .... $5-00 

POSSELT.—Textile Calculations: 

A Guide to Calculations Relating to the Manufacture of all Kinds 
of Yarns and Fabrics, the Analysis of Cloth, Speed, Power and Belt 
Calculations. By E. A. POSSELT. Illustrated. 4to. . $2.00 

REGNAULT.—Elements of Chemistry: 

By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. Forrest 
Betton, M. D., and edited, with Notes, by James C. Booth, Melter 
and Refiner U. S. Mint, and William L. Faber, Metallurgist and 
Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 wood-engravings. Com¬ 
prising nearly 1,500 pages. In two volumes, 8vo., cloth . $ 5 *°° 

RICHARDS.—Aluminium : 

Its History, Occurrence, Properties, Metallurgy and Applications, 
including its Alloys. By Joseph W. Richards, A. C., Chemist and 
Practical Metallurgist, Member of the Deutsche Chemische Gesell- 
schaft. Illust. Third edition, enlarged and revised (1895) . $6.00 
RIFFAULT, VERGNAUD, and TOUSSAINT.—A Practical 
Treatise on the Manufacture of Colors for Painting: 
Comprising the Origin, Definition, and Classification of Colors; the 
Treatment of the Raw Materials; the best Formulae and the Newest 
Processes for the Preparation of every description of Pigment, and 
the Necessary Apparatus and Directions for its Use; Dryers; the 
Testing. Application, and Qualities of Paints, etc., etc. By MM. 
Riffault, Yergnaud, and Toussaint. Revised and Edited by M 




HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


2 '- 


F. Malepeyre. Translated from the French, by A. A. Fesqcch^ 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by Eighty engravings, fn one 1 

voi., 8vo., 659 pages.$5.00 

ROPER.—Catechism for Steam Engineers and Electricians: 
Including the Construction and Management of Steam Engines, 
Steam Boilers and Electric Plants. By Stephen Roper. Twenty- 
first edition, rewritten and greatly enlarged by E. R. Keller and 
C. \V. Pike. 365 pages. Illustrations. i8mo., tucks, gilt. $ 2.00 

ROPER.— Engineer’s Handy Book: 

Containing Facts, Formulae, Tables and Questions on Power, its 
Generation, Transmission and Measurement; Heat, Fuel, and Steam; 
The Steam Boiler and Accessories; Steam Engines and their Parts; 
Steam Engine Indicator; Gas and Gasoline Engines; Materials; 
their Properties and Strength; Together with a Discussion of the Fun¬ 
damental Experiments in Electricity, and an Explanation of Dynamos, 
Motors, Batteries, etc., and Rules for Calculating Sizes of Wires. By 
Stephen Roper. 15th edition. Revised and enlarged by E. R. 
Keller, M. E. and C. W. Pike, B. S. (1899), with numerous illus¬ 
trations. Pocket-book form. Leather. .... $ 3.50 

ROPER.—Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines : 

Including the Modelling, Construction, Running, and Management 
of Land and Marine Engines and Boilers. With illustrations. By 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Sixth edition. i2mo., treks, gilt edge. 

# 3 - 5 ° 

ROPER.—Hand-Book of the Locomotive: 

Including the Construction of Engines and Boilers, and the Construc¬ 
tion, Management, and Running of Locomotives. By Stephen 
Roper. Eleventh edition. i8mo., tucks, gilt edge . $2.50 

ROPER.—Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire-Engines. 

With illustrations. By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Fourth edition, 
i2mo., tucks, gilt edge ....... $3.50 

ROPER.—Questions and Answers for Engineers. 

This little book contains all the Questions that Engineers will be 
asked when undergoing an Examination for the purpose of procuring 
Licenses, and they are so plain that any Engineer or Fireman of or 
dinary intelligence may commit them to memory in a short time. By 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Third edition . . . $2.00 

ROPER,—Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. 

By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Eighth edition, with P’ustrations. 
i8mo., tucks, gilt edge . . . . . . $2.00 

ROSE.—The Complete Practical Machinist: 

Embracing Lathe Work, Vise Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and 
Dies, Hardening and Tempering, the Making and Use of Tools 
Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, Machine Tools, etc. By Joshua 
Rose. 39s Engravings. Nineteenth Edition, greatly Enlarged with 
New and Valuable Matter. i2mo., 504 pages. . . $2.50 

ROSE.—Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught: 

Comprising Instructions in the Selection and Preparation of Drawing 
instruments, Elementary Instruction in Practical Mechanical Draw- 



24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


ing, together with Examples in Simple Geometry and Elementary 
Mechanism, including Screw Threads, Gear Wheels, Mechanical 
Motions, Engines and Boilers. By Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 330 engravings. 8vo , 313 pages .... #3-5° 

ROSE.—The Slide-Valve Practically Explained: 

Embracing simple and complete Practical Demonstrations of th 
operation of each element in a Slide-valve Movement, and illustrat¬ 
ing the effects' of Variations in their Proportions by examples care¬ 
fully selected from the most recent and successful practice. By 
Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated by 35 engravings . $1.00 

ROSS.—The Blowpipe in Chemistry, Mineralogy and Geology: 

Containing all Known Methods of Anhydrous Analysis, many Work¬ 
ing Examples, and Instructions for Making Apparatus. By Lieut.- 
Colonel W. A. Ross, R. A., F. G. S. With 120 Illustrations. 

i2mo. . .. $2.00 

SHAW.—Civil Architecture : 

Being a Complete Theoretical and Practical System of Building, con¬ 
taining the Fundamental Principles of the Art. By Edward Shaw, 
Architect. To which is added a Treatise on Gothic Architecture, etc. 
By Thomas W. Silloway and George M. Harding, Architects 
The whole illustrated by 102 quarto plates finely engraved on copper. 
Eleventh edition. 4to. ....... #5.00 

SHUNK.—A Practical Treatise on Railway Curves and Loca 
tion, for Young Engineers 

By W. F. Shunk, C. E. 121110. f ull bound pocket-book form $2.oc 

SLATER.—The Manual of Colors and Dye Wares. 

By J. W. Slater. 121110.$3.00 

SLOAN.—American Houses: 

A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
26 colored engravings, with descriptive references. By Samuel 
Sloan, Architect. 8vo. ...... .75 

SLOAN.—Homestead Architecture : 

Containing Forty Designs for Villas, Cottages, and Farm-houses, with 
Essays on Style, Construction, Landscape Gardening, Furniture, etc., 
etc. Illustrated by upwards of 200 engravings. By SAMUEL SLOAN, 
Architect. 8vo.$2.00 

SLOANE.—Home Experiments m Science. 

By T. O’Conor Si.c^ne, E. M., A. M., FI:. D. Illustrated by 91 
engravings. i2mo.. fa 00 

SMEATON.—Builder’s Pocktti-Companion : 

' Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Architecture*, 
with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with the subject 
By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, etc. i2mo. 

SMITH.—A Manual of Political Economy. 

By E. Peshine Smith. A New Edition, to which is added a full 
Index. i2mo, . . fa 2 e 





HENRY CAREY BaIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


25 


SMITH.—Parks and Pleasure-Grounds: 

Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks, and 
Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and 
Garden Architect, etc., etc. i2mo. .... $2.00 

SMITH.—The Dyer’s Instructor: 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton, 
Wool, and Worsted, and Woolen Goods; containing nearly 800 
Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding; and 
the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the 
various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such work. 
By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. i2ino. . . . $1.00 

S vIYTH.—A Rudimentary Treatise on Coal and Coal-Mining. 
By Warrington W. Smyth, M. A., F. R. G., President R. G. S. 
of Cornwall. Fifth edition, revised and corrected. With numer¬ 
ous illustrations. i2mo. ...... $1.40 

SNIVELY.—Tables for Systematic Qualitative Chemical Anal, 
ysis. 

By John H. Snively, Phr. D. 8vo. .... $1.00 

SNIVELY.—The Elements of Systematic Qualitative v.hemical 
Analysis : 

A Hand-book for Beginners. By John H. Snively, Phr. D. i6mo. 

$2.00 

STOKES.—The Cabinet Maker and Upholsterer’s Companion: 

Comprising the Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet Work; 
Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl-Work; the Art of Dyeing and Stain 
ing Wood, Ivory, Bone, Tortoise-Shell, etc. Directions for Lacker 
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Cements, and Compos'ns; with numerous Receipts, useful to work 
men generally. Be Stokes. Illustrated. A New Edition, with 
an Appendix upor „ench Polishing, Staining, Imitating, Varnishing, 
etc., etc. i2mo . #1-2S 

STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS; 

Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Properties of 
Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines for Testing 
Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in service. By Officers 
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SULLIVAN.—Protection to Native Industry. 

By Sir Edward Sullivan, Baronet, author of “ Ten Chapters on 
Social Reforms.” 8vo. . . . - • . . $1.00 

SHERRATT.—The Elements of Hand-Railing: 

Simplified and Explained in Concise Problems that are Easily Under¬ 
stood. The whole illustrated with Thirty-eight Accurate and Origi¬ 
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Make Rail Without Centre Joints, Making Better Rail of the Same 
Material, with Half the l abor, and Showing How to Lay Out Stairs 
of all Kinds. By R. J. Sherratt. Folio. . . . $2.50 




26 HENRY CAREY BAIRl> & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


SYME.—Outlines of an Industrial Science. 

By David Syme. 121110. . . $2.oc 

TABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, 
SQUARE, AND FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 

By Measurement. Cloth . . . . . • ■ 6^ 

THALLNER.-Tool-Steel: 

A Concise Handbook on Tool-Steel in General. Tts Treatment in 
the Operations of Forging, Annealing, Hardening, Tempering, etc.,, 
and the Appliances Therefor. By Otto Thallner, Manager in 
Chief of the Tool-Steel Works, Bismarckhutte, Germany. From the 
German by William T. Brannt. Illustrated by 69 engravings. 
194 pages. 8vo. 1902. ...... $2.00 

TEMPLETON.—The Practical Examinator on Steam and thd 
Steam-Engine: 

With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged for the Use of 
Engineers, Students, and others. By William Templeton, Em 
gineer. i2mo. ........ $1.00 

THAUSING.—The Theory and Practice of the Preparation of 
Malt and the Fabrication of Beer: 

With especial reference to the Vienna Process of Brewing. Elab¬ 
orated from personal experience by Julius E. Thausing, Professor 
at the School for Brewers, and at the Agricultural Institute, Modling, 
near Vienna. Translated from the German by William T. Brannt, 
Thoroughly and elaborately edited, with much American matter, and 
according to the latest and most Scientific Practice, by A. Schwarz 
and Dr. A. H. Bauer. Illustrated by 140 Engravings. 8vo., 815 
pages.• . . . . $10.00. 

THOMPSON.—Political Economy. With Especial Reference 
to the Industrial History of Nations : 

By Robert E. Thompson, M. A., Professor of Social Science in the 
University of Pennsylvania. i2mo. .... $1.50 

THOMSON.—Freight Charges Calculator: 

By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent. 24010. . . $1.25. 

TURNER’S (THE) COMPANION: 

Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric Turn¬ 
ing; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments; and 
Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter, and 
Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instructions for woiking them. 

i2mo..$1.00 

TURNING: Specimens of Fancy Turning Executed on the 
Hand or Foot-Lathe : 

With Geometric, Oval, and Eccentric Chucks, and Elliptical Cutting 
Frame. By an Amateur. Illustrated by 30 exquisite Photographs. 

• • • • • • • . . (Scarce.) 


440 . 




HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


2 7 


VAILE.—Galvanized-Iron Cornice-Workers Manual: 

Containing Instructions in Laying out the Different Mitres, and 
Making Patterns for all kinds of Plain and Circular Work. Also, 
Tables of Weights, Areas and Circumferences of Circles, and other 
Matter calculated to Benefit the Trade. By Charles A. Vaile. 
Illustrated by twenty-one plates. 4to. . . . .(Scarce.) 

VILLE.—On Artifici Manures : 

Their Chemical Selection and Scientific Application to Agriculture. 
A series of Lectures given at the Experimental Farm at Vincennes, 
during 1867 and 1874-75. By M. Georges Ville. Translated and 
Edited by William Crookes, F. R. S. Illustrated by thirty-one 
engravings. 8vo., 450 pag •>;.$6.00 

VILLE.—The School of Chemical Manures : 

Or, Elementary Principles in the Use of Fertilizing Agents. From 
the French of M. Geo. Ville, by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and En¬ 
gineer. With Illustrations. i2mo. .... $1.25 

VOGDES.—The Architect’s and Builder’s Pocket-Companion 
and Price-Book: 

Consisting of a Shoit but Comprehensive Epitome of Decimals, Duo¬ 
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Measures, Sizes, Weights, Strengths, etc., of Iron, Wood, Stone, 
Brick, Cement and Concretes, Quantities of Materials in given Sizes 
and Dimensions of Wood, Brick and Stone; and full and complete 
Bills of Prices for Carpenter’s Work and Painting; also, Rules for 
Computing and Valuing Brick and Brick Work, Stone Work, Paint¬ 
ing, Plastering, with a Vocabulary of Technical Terms, etc. By 
Frank W. Vogdes, Architect, Indianapolis, Ind. Enlarged, revised, 
and corrected. In one volume, 368 pages, full-bound, pocket-book 
form, gilt edges ........ $2.oc 

Cloth .. ....... 1.50 

VAN CLEVE.—Tx.o English and American Mechanic: 
Comprising a Collection of Cher Three Thousand Receipts, Rules, 
and Tables, designed for the Use of every Mechanic and Manufac¬ 
turer. By B. Frank Van Cleve. Illustrated. 500^0. i2mo. $2.01 

VAN DER BURG.— school of Painting for the Imitation ot 
Woods and Marbles: 

A Complete, Practical Treatise on the Art and Craft of Graining and 
Marbling with the Tools and Appliances. 36 plates. Folio, 12x20 

inches. ......... $6.00 

WAHNSCHAFFE.—A Guide to the Scientific Examination 
of Soils: 

Comprising Select Methods of Mechanical and Chemical A lalysk 
and Physical Investigation. Translated from the German of Dr. F 
Wahnschaffs. With additions by William T. Brannt. Illus¬ 
trated by 25 engravings. 121110. 177 pages . . . #i- 5 ® 

DALTON.—Coal-Mining Described and Illustrated : 

By Thomas H. Walton, Mining Engineer. Illustrated by 24 Jarg? 
and elaborate Plates, after Actual Workings anu Apparatus. #2.00- 







2 S HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE, 


WARE.—The Sugar Beet. 

Including a History of the Beet Sugar Industry in Europe, Varieties 
of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, Tillage, Seeds and Sowing 
Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, Transportation, Conserva 
tion, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of the Pulp, etc. By Lewi* 
S. Ware, C. E., M. E. Illustrated by ninety engravings. 8vo. 

$ 2.00 

ARN.—The Sheet-Metal Worker’s Instructor: 

For Zinc, Sheet-Iron, Copper, and Tin-Plate Workers, etc. Contain¬ 
ing a selection of Geometrical Problems; also, Practical and Simple 
Rules for Describing the various Patterns required in the different 
branches of the above Trades. By Reuben H. Warn, Practical 
Tin-Plate Worker. To which is added an Appendix, containing 
Instructions for Boiler-Making, Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, 
Rules for Calculating the Weights of different Figures of Iron and 
Steel, Tables of the Weights of Iron, Steel, etc. Illustrated by thirty 
two Plates and thirty-seven Wood Engravings. 8vo. . $2.00 

WARNER.—New Theorems, Tables, and Diagrams, for thf 
Computation of Earth-work: 

Designed for the use of Engineers in Preliminary and Final Estimates 
of Students in Engineering, and of Contractors and other non-profeS' 
sional Computers. In two parts, with an Appendix. Part I. A Prac¬ 
tical Treatise; Part II. A Theoretical Treatise, and the Appendix 
Containing Notes to the Rules and Examples of Part I.; Explana 
tions of the Construction of Scales, Tables, and Diagrams, and z 
Treatise upon Equivalent Square Bases and Equivalent Level Heights 
By John Warner, A. M., Mining and Mechanical Engineer. Illus¬ 
trated by 14 Plates. 8vo..$3.0o 

WILSON.—Carpentry and Joinery : 

By John Wilson, Lecturer on Building Construction, Carpentry and 
Joinery, etc., in the Manchester Technical School. Third Edition, 
with 65 full-page plates, in flexible cover, oblong. . . (Scarce.) 

WATSON.—A Manual of the Hand-Lathe : 

Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of all kinds, 
Ivory% Bone, and Precious Woods ; Dyeing, Coloring, and French 
Polishing ; Inlaying by Veneers, and various methods practised to 
produce Elaborate work with Dispatch, and at Small Expense. By 
Egbert P. Watson, Author of “The Modern Practice of American 
Machinists and Engineers.” Illustrated by 78 engravings. $1.00 

WATSON.—The Modern Practice of American Machinists 
and Engineers : 

Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, Lathe 
Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow-work generally, with 
the most Economical Speed for the same ; the Results verified by 
Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vise, and on the floor. Togethei 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


29 


with Workshop Management, Economy of Manufacture, the Steam 
Engine, Boilers, Ge^fs, Belting, etc., etc. By Egbert P. Watson. 
Illustrated by eighty 'Six engravings. i2mo. . . . $2.00 

WATT.—The Art of Soap Making : 

A Practical lland-Book of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, 
loilet Soaps, etc. Fifth Edition, Revised, to which is added an 
Appendix on Modern Candle Making. By Alexander Watt. 

Ill. i2mo. ..$3.00 

WEATHERLY.—Treatise on the Art of Boiling Sugar, Crys¬ 
tallizing, Lozenge-making, Comfits, Gum Goods, 

And other processes for Confectionery, including Methods for Manu¬ 
facturing every Description of Raw and Refined Sugar Goods. A 
New and Enlarged Edition, with an Appendix on Cocoa, Chocolate, 
Chocolate Confections, etc. 196 pages, i2mo. (1903) . $1.50 

WILL.— Tables of Qualitative Chemical Analysis : 

With an Introductory Chapter on the Course of Analysis. By Pro¬ 
fessor Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Third American, 
from the eleventh German edition. Edited by Charles F. Himes, 
Ph. D., Professor of Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, 

Pa. 8vo.$1.50 

WILLIAMS.—On Heat and Steam : 

Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation and Explo¬ 
sion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. 

$ 2.00 

WILSON.—First Principles of Political Economy: 

With Reference to Statesmanship and the Progress of Civilization. 
By Professor W. D. Wilson, of the Cornell University. A new and 
revised edition. i2mo. ....... $1.50 

WILSON.— The Practical Tool-Maker and Designer: 

A Treatise upon the Designing of Tools and Fixtures for Machine 
Tools and Metal Working Machinery, Comprising Modern Examples 
of Machines with Fundamental Designs for Tools for the Actual Pro¬ 
duction of the work; Together with Special Reference to a Set of 
Tools for Machining the Various Parts of a Bicycle. Illustrated by 
189 engravings. 1898..$2.50 

CONTENTS: Introductory. Chapter I. Modern Tool Room and Equipment. 
II. Files, Their Use and Abuse. III. Steel and 1’empering. IV. Making Jigs. 
V. Milling Machine Fixtures. VI. Tools and Fixtures for Screw Machines. VII. 
Broaching. VIII. Punches and Dies for Cutting and Drop Press. IX. Tools for 
Hollow-Ware. X. Embossing: Metal, Coin, and Stamped Sheet-Metal Orna¬ 
ments. XI. Drop Forging. XII. Solid Drawn Shells or Ferrules; Cupping or 
Cutting, and Drawing; Breaking Down Shells. XIII. Annealing, Pickling, and 
Cleaning, XIV. Tools for Draw Bench. XV. Cutting and Assembling Pieces 
by Means of Ratchet Dial Plates at One Operation. XVI. The Header. XVII. 
Tools for Fox Lathe. XVIII. Suggestions for a Set of Tools for Machining the 
Various Parts of a Bicycle. XIX. The Plater’s Dynamo. XX. Conclusion— 
With a Few Random Ideas. Appendix. Index. 

WOODS—Compound Locomotives: 

By Arthur Tannatt Woods. Second edition, revised and enlarged 
by David Leonard Barnes, A. M., C. E. 8 vo. 330 pp. 







30 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


WOHLER.—A Hand-Book of Mineral Analysis: 

By F. Wohler, Professor of Chemistry in the University of Gottin¬ 
gen. Edited by Henry B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry in the 
Renssalaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, New York. Illustrated. 
i2mo. 

WORSSAM.—On Mechanical Saws: 

From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1869. By S. W. 
Worssam, Jr. Illustrated by eighteen large plates. 8vo. $1.5° 


RECENT ADDITIONS. 

BRANNT.—Varnishes, Lacquers, Punting Inks and Sealing- 
Waxes : 

Their Raw Materials and their Manufacture, to which is added the 
Art of Varnishing and Lacquering, including the Preparation of Put¬ 
ties and of Stains for Wood, Ivory, Bone, Horn, and Leather. By 
William T. Brannt. Illustrated by 39 Engravings, 338 pages. 
i2mo. .......... $3.00 

BRANNT.—The Practical Dry Cleaner, Scourer, and Gar¬ 
ment Dyer ; 

Comprising Dry or Chemical Cleaning; Purification of Benzine; Re¬ 
moving Stains or Spotting; Wet Cleaning; Finishing Cleaned Fabrics; 
Cleaning and Dyeing Purs, Skins, Rugs, and Mats; Cleaning and 
Dyeing Feathers; Bleaching and Dyeing Straw Hats; Cleaning and 
Dyeing Gloves; Garment Dyeing; Stripping; Analysis of Textile 
Fabrics. Edited by William T. Brannt, Editor of “The Techno- 
Chemical Receipt Book.” Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
Illustrated by Twenty-Three Engravings. . . . . $2 50 

BRANNT.—Petroleum. 

its History, Origin, Occurrence, Production, Physical and Chemical 
Constitution, Technology, Examination and Uses; Together with 
the Occurrence and Uses of Natural Gas. Edited chiefly from the 
German of Prof. Hans Hoand Dr. Alexander Veith, by Wm. 
T. Brannt. Illustrated by 3 Plates and 284 Engravings. 743 pD. 
8vo. I 1 2.50 

BRANNT.—A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Vine¬ 
gar and Acetates, Cider, and Fruit-Wines: 

Preservation of Fruits and Vegetables by Canning and Evaporation; 
Preparation of Fruit-Butters, Jellies, Marmalades, Catchups, Pickles, 
Mustards, etc. Edited from various sources. By William T. 
Brannt. Illustrated by 79 Engravings. 479 pp. 8vo. $6.00 

BRANNT.—The Metal Worker’s Handy-Book of Receipts 
and Processes: 

Being a Collection of Chemical P'ormulas and Practical Manipula¬ 
tions for the working of all Metals ; including the Decoration and 
Beautifying of Articles Manufactured therefrom, as well as their 
Preservation. Edited from various sources. By William T. 
Brannt. Illustrated, iamo. $2.50 








HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE. 


3 « 


DEITE.—A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Per¬ 
fumery : 

Comprising directions for making all Kinds of Perfumes, Sachet 
Powders, Fumigating Materials, Dentifrices, Cosmetics, etc., with a 
full account of the Volatile Oils, Balsams, Resins, and other Natural 
and Artificial Perfume-substances, including the Manufacture of 
Fruit Ethers, and tests of their purity. By Dr. C. Deite. assisted 
by L. Borchert, F. Eichbaum, E. Kugler, H. Toeffner, and 
other experts. From the German, by Wm. T. Brannt. 28 Engraw. 
ings. 358 pages. 8vo.$3.00 

EDWARDS.—American Marine Engineer, Theoretical and 
Practical: 

With Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice. 
By Emory Edwards. 85 illustrations. i2mo. . . $1.50 

EDWARDS.—goo Examination Questions and Answers: 

For Engineers and Firemen (Land and Marine) who desire to ob¬ 
tain a United States Government or State License. Pocket-book 
form, gilt edge.$1.50 

FLEMMING.—Practical Tanning: 

A Handbook of Modern Processes, Receipts, and Suggestions for the 
Treatment of Hides, Skins, and Pelts of Every Description. By Lewis 
A. Flemming, American Tanner. 630 pp. 8vo. 1910. Net $6.00 

POSSELT.—The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained: 
With an Appendix on the Preparation of Jacquard Cards, and 
Practical Hints to Learners of Jacquard Designing. By E. A. 
Posselt. With 230 illustrations and numerous diagrams. 127 pp. 

4 to.# 3 -oo 

POSSELT.—Recent Improvements in Textile Machinery, 
Part III: 

Processes Required for Converting Wool, Cotton, Silk, from Fibre 
to Finished Fabric, Covering both Woven and Knit Goods ; Con¬ 
struction of the most Modern Improvements in Preparatory Machin¬ 
ery, Carding, Combing, Drawing, and Spinning Machinery, Winding, 
Warping, Slashing Machinery Looms, Machinery for Knit Goods, 
Dye Stuffs, Chemicals, Soaps, Latest Improved Accessories Relat¬ 
ing to Construction and Equipment of Modern Textile Manufactur¬ 
ing Plants. By E. A. Posselt. Completel” Illustrated. 4to. 

$ 7 - 5 ° 

RICH.—Artistic Horse-Shoeing: 

A Practical and Scientific Treatise, giving Improved Methods of 
Shoeing, with Special Directions for Shaping Shoes to Cure Different 
Diseases of the Foot, and for the Correction of Faulty Action in 
Trotters. By George E. Rich. 62 Illustrations. 153 pages. 

.. . 






32 


HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.’S CATALOGUE 


RICHARDSON. —Practical Blacksmithing: 

A Collection of Articles Contributed at Different Times by Skilled 
Workmen to the columns of “ The Blacksmith and Wheelwright,” 
and Covering nearly the Whole Range of Blacksmithing, from the 
Simplest Job of Work to some of the Most Complex Forgings. 
Compiled and Edited by M. T. Richardson. 

Vol. I. 210 Illustrations. 224 pages. i2mo. • • #1.00 

Vol. II. 230 Illustrations. 262 pages. i2mo. • • $1.00 

Vol. Ill, 390 Illustrations. 307 pages. i2mo. . . #1.00 

Vol. IV. 226 Illustrations. 276 pages. I2mo. . . $1.00 

RICHARDSON" —The Practical Horseshoer: 

Being a Collection of Articles on Horseshoeing in all its Branches? 
which have appeared from time to time in the columns of “ 1 he 1 
Blacksmith and Wheelwright,” etc. Compiled and edited by M. T. 

Richardson. 174 illustrations.#1.00 

ROPER.— Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and 
Firemen: 

By Stephen Roper, Engineer. i8mo. Morocco . $2.00 

ROPER.— The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management: 

By Stephen Roper, Engineer. 12mo., tuck, gilt edges. $2.00 

ROPER.—The Young Engineer’s Own Book: 

Containing an Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which 
the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is Based. By Stephen Roper, 
Engineer. 160 illustrations, 363 pages. i8mo., tuck . $2.50 

ROSE.—Modern Steam-Engines: 

An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam-Engine, written in Plain 
language; for Use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. 
Giving Full Explanation! of the Construction of Modern Steam* 
Engines: Including Diagrams showing their Actual operation. To¬ 
gether with Complete but Simple Explanations of the operations of 
Various Kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., 
thereby Enabling the Ordinary Engineer to clearly Understand the 
Principles Involved in their Construction and Use, and to Plot out 
their Movements upon the Drawing Board. By Joshua Rose. M. E. 
Illustrated by 422 engravings. Revised. 358 pp. 

ROSE.—Steam Boilers: 

A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination, forthe 
Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors; and 
embracing in plain figures all the calculations necessary in Designing 
or Classifying Steam Boilers. By Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 73 engravings. 250 pages. 8vo.$2.00 

SCHRIBER.—The Complete Carriage and Wagon Painter: 

A Concise Compendium of the Art of Painting Carriages, Wagon*, 
and Sleighs, embracing Full Directions in all the Various Branches, 
including Lettering, Scrolling, Ornamenting, Striping, Varnishing, 
and Coloring, with numerous Recipes for Mixing Colors. 73 Illus¬ 
trations. 177 pp. i2mo. $UW* 


























































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